Cycling an Aquarium

[Brew12]

So I noticed today that the nitrite went up even though the ammonia has been sitting on the same value <0.15. Why is that?
Day 22
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrite 0.5
Nitrate 100

Day 23
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrite 1

Day 24
Ammonia <0.15

Day 25
No test

Day 26
Ammonia <0.15
Nitrite 2
Nitrate 100

I would suspect it is testing error.

 

[smoothette]

You can always use a bottled bacteria product like Dr Tim's One and Only, Biospira, Stability, or many others that are on the market. It has almost the same impact as live rock.

does this also include macrobater7? not sure how to spell it? and if so when do i add it during the cycle process? it came with my tank kit but i didnt understand the instructions.

 

[Brew12]

does this also include macrobater7? not sure how to spell it? and if so when do i add it during the cycle process? it came with my tank kit but i didnt understand the instructions.

I'm really not sure. I think it does have some nitrifying bacteria but the complex directions make me think there is more to it than just a bacteria blend.

 

[canadianeh]

I would suspect it is testing error.

Day 30
Nitrite 0

Wow exactly one month!

 

[cvrle1]

does this also include macrobater7? not sure how to spell it? and if so when do i add it during the cycle process? it came with my tank kit but i didnt understand the instructions.

I am using microbacter start xlm to cycle rocks in my tub. I dosed ammonia to 2ppm (probably above that but close enough) left it for 4 hours and then tested ammonia to make sure I got at least 2ppm result. Then I added microbacter start xlm as per instructions. Left for 24 hours and measured ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. I saw ammonia not really move, but nitrates appeared, so I added more microbacter start xlm as per instructions again. That was 8 days ago. I added bacteria 1-2 more days, as it doesnt hurt and can only help the process. Tested today and my ammonia is going down nicely (0.8ppm) nitrates are at like 50ppm and nitrites are at 2ppm and going up slowly last 4 days. I dont think there is any difference in instructions between microbacter start xlm and microbacter 7.

You should follow this for microbacter 7:

Medium- to High-nutrient Systems, or to seed Biological Filtration in new aquaria: To effectively decrease the concentration of available nutrients and waste material in all marine and freshwater aquaria, add 5 ml (1 capful) per 25 US-gallons (94.6 L) [≈4 drops per gallon (3.8 L)] of aquarium water daily for the first two weeks of use; the impact that MicrōBacter7 has on an aquarium is most evident within this period. Turn protein skimming and UV-sterilization off for a period of 4 hours following addition to aquaria. A noticeable difference in water clarity is typically apparent within 30-minutes of dosing. Follow same instructions for new aquarium start-up. Thereafter, switch to “low-nutrient” dosage (below).

It says to mix bacteria with aquarium water before dumping it in the tank (microbacter 7), but I just dumped bacteria into bucket as per microbacter start xlm instructions.. Dont really think it makes a difference. Once thing I did do is keep bottle of bacteria in the fridge. It should be refrigirated and it helps the process from what I read.

 

[canadianeh]

I am using microbacter start xlm to cycle rocks in my tub. I dosed ammonia to 2ppm (probably above that but close enough) left it for 4 hours and then tested ammonia to make sure I got at least 2ppm result. Then I added microbacter start xlm as per instructions. Left for 24 hours and measured ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. I saw ammonia not really move, but nitrates appeared, so I added more microbacter start xlm as per instructions again. That was 8 days ago. I added bacteria 1-2 more days, as it doesnt hurt and can only help the process. Tested today and my ammonia is going down nicely (0.8ppm) nitrates are at like 50ppm and nitrites are at 2ppm and going up slowly last 4 days. I dont think there is any difference in instructions between microbacter start xlm and microbacter 7.

You should follow this for microbacter 7:

Medium- to High-nutrient Systems, or to seed Biological Filtration in new aquaria: To effectively decrease the concentration of available nutrients and waste material in all marine and freshwater aquaria, add 5 ml (1 capful) per 25 US-gallons (94.6 L) [≈4 drops per gallon (3.8 L)] of aquarium water daily for the first two weeks of use; the impact that MicrōBacter7 has on an aquarium is most evident within this period. Turn protein skimming and UV-sterilization off for a period of 4 hours following addition to aquaria. A noticeable difference in water clarity is typically apparent within 30-minutes of dosing. Follow same instructions for new aquarium start-up. Thereafter, switch to “low-nutrient” dosage (below).

It says to mix bacteria with aquarium water before dumping it in the tank, but I just dumped bacteria into bucket. Dont really think it makes a difference. Once thing I did do is that I keep bottle of bacteria in the fridge. It should be refrigirated and it helps the process from what I read.

I wonder the same thing too. Are xlm and 7 the same product and they just labelled it for marketing purpose? Can I use xlm that I have lying around in the fridge to dose established tank or qt tank anytime I want?

 

[cvrle1]

I wonder the same thing too. Are xlm and 7 the same product and they just labelled it for marketing purpose? Can I use xlm that I have lying around in the fridge to dose established tank or qt tank anytime I want?

Not the same product. Xlm is apprently 15 times more powerful, so it will require different amounts than 7 and different dosing than 7. (ex: 7 says dose for 2 weeks every day, xlm says dose 1st day and then add more if you want) XLM can be added to established tanks in certain situations:

To replace bacteria killed by extensive cleaning of substrates and surfaces: Add 10 to 30 ml per 25 US-gallons (95 L) depending on perceived damage to filter bed, and ammonia level.

To replace bacteria killed by medications, overcrowding or emergencies: Add 30 ml per 25 US-gallons (95 L) depending on perceived damage to filter bed. Then add 5 ml per half hour until ammonia levels come down.

Ongoing care after the aquarium is cycled: To provide ongoing biological stability to a cycled aquarium: Switch to MicrōBacterCLEAN after tank is fully cycled and one week has elapsed. If you want to switch to MicrōBacter7 the best time will be when the aquarium has been running for 4 to 6 months.

With that last point, I wouldnt just dump xlm in for no reason into established tank.

 

[brandon429]

Im going to excoriate that company online for selling sham products based on this statement:
To replace bacteria killed by extensive cleaning of substrates and surfaces: Add 10 to 30 ml per 25 US-gallons (95 L) depending on perceived damage to filter bed, and ammonia level.

perceived damage lol, api .25 void-filler.

In no way does cleaning substrate cause ammonia issues, or bac loss that is critical, thats a straight-up marketing scheme.

I have no doubt they may have cycling bacteria; but to make totally unfounded claims to make additional sales is against fair practice in my opinion its a made up need to simply sell more

counter proof: the sand rinse thread is 34 pages of the deepest deep cleans and sandbed removals in reefing, above all threads, and we do it without replacement bac and with seneye + mindstream ammonia tracking for some (reveals no loss of critical bacteria, all jobs)

 

[cvrle1]

Im going to excoriate that company online for selling sham products based on this statement:
To replace bacteria killed by extensive cleaning of substrates and surfaces: Add 10 to 30 ml per 25 US-gallons (95 L) depending on perceived damage to filter bed, and ammonia level.

perceived damage lol, api .25 void-filler.

In no way does cleaning substrate cause ammonia issues, or bac loss that is critical, thats a straight-up marketing scheme.

I have no doubt they may have cycling bacteria; but to make totally unfounded claims to make additional sales is against fair practice in my opinion its a made up need to simply sell more

counter proof: the sand rinse thread is 34 pages of the deepest deep cleans and sandbed removals in reefing, above all threads, and we do it without replacement bac and with seneye + mindstream ammonia tracking for some (reveals no loss of critical bacteria, all jobs)

All I can say it that it works for initial cycle of dead rocks that I have in my bin going on. While you do raise some valid points, I will say how is what they are doing any different than all the coral sellers using photoshop and filters to make their corals look like something they are not. I am not saying they are right in doing so, but they are not only ones fooling buyers with fake claims.

Also, if you stir sand bed while inside the tank, like many do, you could get ammonia spike. So I guess what they are saying isnt that far off. Maybe their wording is off, but they kinda had to dumb it down to very basics so that everyone can understand. If they just said, Add 10 to 30 ml per 25 US-gallons if you get ammonia spike it would be ok, but not everyone knows what causes ammonia spike in the 1st place.

 

[morgank689]

Great article! Thanks for taking the time to write!

 

[canadianeh]

Day 30
Nitrite 0

Wow exactly one month!

@Brew12 After I got 0 on both ammonia and nitrite, yesterday on day 32 I did 10 gallons WC out of 65 gallons total volume. Now as you can remember, my nitrate has been constantly 100 ppm or more during the cycling process. However, after the yesterday 10 gallons, my Nitrate this morning is measure at 25 ppm. That's 75 ppm or more drop for less than 20% WC. I have been having chaeto in the sump with 11-12 hours light schedule in the past 2 days but I don't think it contributes to big nitrate consumption, don't you think? Do you know why? I didn't do test before the WC but I am 100% confident that it was 100 ppm.

Also, should I continue with another 10 gallons WC today? How much nitrate one should maintain in reef tank?

 

[Brew12]

@Brew12 After I got 0 on both ammonia and nitrite, yesterday on day 32 I did 10 gallons WC out of 65 gallons total volume. Now as you can remember, my nitrate has been constantly 100 ppm or more during the cycling process. However, after the yesterday 10 gallons, my Nitrate this morning is measure at 25 ppm. That's 75 ppm or more drop for less than 20% WC. I have been having chaeto in the sump with 11-12 hours light schedule in the past 2 days but I don't think it contributes to big nitrate consumption, don't you think? Do you know why? I didn't do test before the WC but I am 100% confident that it was 100 ppm.

Also, should I continue with another 10 gallons WC today? How much nitrate one should maintain in reef tank?

My guess is that your nitrite went to 0ppm so it is no longer interfering with your nitrate reading. You can do another water change if you want, or you can leave it. 25ppm NO3 isn't too bad imo.

 

[canadianeh]

My guess is that your nitrite went to 0ppm so it is no longer interfering with your nitrate reading. You can do another water change if you want, or you can leave it. 25ppm NO3 isn't too bad imo.

I see. I should have tested the nitrate level before the WC and when the nitrite is 0 for my information. Oh well.

Ok. I will do another 10 gallons WC today.

What's good Nitrate level for reef tank that is not SPS dominant?

 

[WvAquatics]

I see. I should have tested the nitrate level before the WC and when the nitrite is 0 for my information. Oh well.

Ok. I will do another 10 gallons WC today.

What's good Nitrate level for reef tank that is not SPS dominant?

What size of tank? 10g depend on the %of total water changes won't help alot. Unless it's a 20g tank.

 

[Brew12]

I see. I should have tested the nitrate level before the WC and when the nitrite is 0 for my information. Oh well.

Ok. I will do another 10 gallons WC today.

What's good Nitrate level for reef tank that is not SPS dominant?

I would say anywhere from 10ppm to 30ppm is a nice place to be, but opinions on that are all over the place.

 

[canadianeh]

What size of tank? 10g depend on the %of total water changes won't help alot. Unless it's a 20g tank.

65 gallons total system

 

[WvAquatics]

So 10g on 65 g will lower nitrates to to roughly 22ppm I would save water and salt at that poi t personally

 

[canadianeh]

So 10g on 65 g will lower nitrates to to roughly 22ppm I would save water and salt at that poi t personally

It’s okay. I already made saltwater. I will do test again afterward and post it here.

 

[canadianeh]

My guess is that your nitrite went to 0ppm so it is no longer interfering with your nitrate reading. You can do another water change if you want, or you can leave it. 25ppm NO3 isn't too bad imo.

So 10g on 65 g will lower nitrates to to roughly 22ppm I would save water and salt at that poi t personally

I would say anywhere from 10ppm to 30ppm is a nice place to be, but opinions on that are all over the place.

As I promised, I tested for Nitrate again today after another 10 gallons WC last night. So total WC is is 20 gallons out of 65 gallons system (minus rocks and etc). The Nitrate reading today is 25 ppm again!? I am confused. I tested Nitrite and still shows 0. How is it still shows the same 25 ppm??

 

[WvAquatics]

Because 10% took your nitrate down to 22. The first 10% was done before the test that read 25. Then you tested again and did another so your nitrates are around 23ppm. To make a sizable dip in nitrates you must do 50%+. 50% will get nitrates to 12. 75% will be around 8ppm. You subtract the same % from the total nitrates based on % of water change