Well. Everything was clear a minute ago.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Yes there are kits for chloromines but to my understanding the amount is in trace amounts and the kits will not be able to detect it. Even though the amounts are trace it is still introduce ammonia into your tank and will continue to throw its balance off. And yes the rodi unit will remove the chloromine but please note that the life of the carbon block is cut significantly. The chloromines are an additional chemical that the carbon block is needing to filter out.
No DI does not remove chloromines only the carbon does. Regular carbon removes it just fine but the life of the block is cut substantially. DI only removes dissolved solids not chemicals.
I tested this rather carefully and had many others test it for this article:
Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm
Thanks. I read through the article and it reassures me that my system is up to the task. As you can see from the conflict here its not easy for us "non" scientist to wrap our minds around some of the complexities of reef keeping and its associated tasks. Not everything is a simple yes/no, and one correct answer is hard to come by sometimes.
We run the Chloraguard filters I linked on all clients systems with chloramines present in their source water. Even in my office, where we go through 300+ gallons per week, I get well over a year out of our prefilters. More here.
Perhaps Randy can shed some light on what makes one carbon more efficient at removing chloramine than another. In my experience (~3ppm Cl), standard carbon filters deplete considerably (3-4X) faster.
You can run your system a few different ways, I opt for the most affordable and easiest to maintain long term.
I'm trying to be nice, but this is just so wrong.
DI removes charged chemicals. All charged chemicals. It actually doesn't do a good job of removing actual particulate solids, but the RO membrane prevents any of these from getting through.
I am only posting to share additional experiences and info. What your water source tests can be completely different from what other peoples in other cities would test as. I'm from California and here it is a know fact that chloromines are used in our water treatment plant. There are many cities where chloromines are not even used so it's a non issue.
Randy,No doubt. That is why I had many people around the country test their water.
If you have not used a regular RO/DI and tested for chlorine/chloramine in the effluent, then I'm not sure how you can disagree.
Randy,
I've read that chloramine hardens and exhaust your RO membrane a lot faster. Is that a true statement?
If true, could the (FX ChloraGuard Chlorine & Chloramine Carbon Block) extend your RO membrane life if your have chloramine's in your tap water?
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/fx-chloraguard-chlorine-chloramine-carbon-block-filtrex.html
Thanks, GoVols
Are the ones they sell in apool supply adequate?All you need to do is test the outflow water with Total Chlorine test strips
Are the ones they sell in apool supply adequate?
I'm not even sure where to begin. I disagree with every sentence.
I tested this rather carefully and had many others test it for this article:
Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm
I used to live in NYC, Best water I've ever tasted. When I moved to Jersey I couldn't stand the smell of the water coming out of the tap. I now use my RO/DI for drinking water as well as the tank.I don't know if I have choramine but in summer time TN has more Chlorine in the H2o than the H2o
as long as they can read low enough they should be good.
as I stated, my town water supply gave me a reading of 0.2 to 0.5 ppm
When testing your tap water, you have to let the tap run a little while to get the residual reading. testing the first water that comes out of the tap may give a reading of zero.
Remember, you need a total chlorine test, not a free chlorine test. the total chlorine measures both chlorine (free chlorine) & chloramine.
I used to live in NYC, Best water I've ever tasted. When I moved to Jersey I couldn't stand the smell of the water coming out of the tap. I now use my RO/DI for drinking water as well as the tank.
I have the AWI TYPHOON III EXTREME 150 which has a RO diverter going into a pressure tank hooked up to the fridge.If you do that make sure to sanitize the system like once a year. Otherwise for tank use I don't know if it maters. I haven't in 8 years, I don't use it for drinking or cooking etc, but it's been recommended by RO/DI manufacturers to do so yearly even for our use on tanks.
I assume you are using a pressure tank and taken from the RO and not through the DI?
https://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/Sanitizing_With_Tank.pdf