Aquarium Chemistry Question? Ask the Doctor!

[fishead]

Hi Randy, I have a heap of live rock from my big old tank (that i tore down) in a couple of 3' tanks. Just keeping everything alive and kicking while I put together a new more sensible size tank 52x28x23".
The big old tank was 3000 litres and originally housed tanganyikan cichlids. It had a base of fibre reinforced cement sheeting with fibreglass and pond paint over. There was bitumen pond paint in a couple joins and painted over stainless bolts. I never had any success growing corals in there and think a lot of that was due to stuff leaching into the water from all that. Should have got some water ICP tested. Anyhow it was never built for the job but my new tank is.
Could my live rock be holding heavy metals and other contaminants from the old tank?
Thanking you, Steve.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

They may be. I think they only way to know is to either put them in new salt water and do an ICP, or put in a coral and try it.

Rinse each rock in a bucket of new salt water before putting it into the test aquarium, if you try it.

 

[fishead]

Thanks Randy. Might just go with new rock and be sure of a new start.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Thanks Randy. Might just go with new rock and be sure of a new start.

Whatever you go with, Happy Reefing!

 

[User1]

Background. New tank. 210 gallons. 150 lbs dry Pukani. 200 lbs CaribSea Florida and Fiji mixed. Cycled in March 2018. April lights and skimmer on. April 15th moved over a 6 year old 40 breeder. Red Sea test kit: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0. Hannah Phosphate .16 Apex PH 8.3 (Red Sea test kit reads similar). Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. RI/RO water. On June 22nd I decided to get a couple more test kits for dkh, calcium, and mag. Hannah dkh (seems pretty consistent and easy to use), Salifert calcium and mag. I'm still getting used to these although somewhat easy I need a bit more consistency or skill. Calcium is reading between 400 - 410 after a 20 gallon water change. Mag is reading 1200. Testing daily hasn't shown much, if any, change.

Question. Is it possible to raise mag and calcium slowly without it continuing to increase day over day? Or should I just let it ride a bit more while the tank matures?

I have two dosing pumps available so was considering possibly ordering ESV two part to raise the numbers a bit. However, since it doesn't appear to be changing much day over day maybe now isn't the time. Knowing there is still a lot of time left for tank maturity I was thinking if the calcium and mag was a bit higher it would help the Coralline algae and what sps frags I do have. My concern is that I'll be adding and it isn't being consumed the values would go too high.

Thanks!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Background. New tank. 210 gallons. 150 lbs dry Pukani. 200 lbs CaribSea Florida and Fiji mixed. Cycled in March 2018. April lights and skimmer on. April 15th moved over a 6 year old 40 breeder. Red Sea test kit: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0. Hannah Phosphate .16 Apex PH 8.3 (Red Sea test kit reads similar). Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. RI/RO water. On June 22nd I decided to get a couple more test kits for dkh, calcium, and mag. Hannah dkh (seems pretty consistent and easy to use), Salifert calcium and mag. I'm still getting used to these although somewhat easy I need a bit more consistency or skill. Calcium is reading between 400 - 410 after a 20 gallon water change. Mag is reading 1200. Testing daily hasn't shown much, if any, change.

Question. Is it possible to raise mag and calcium slowly without it continuing to increase day over day? Or should I just let it ride a bit more while the tank matures?

I have two dosing pumps available so was considering possibly ordering ESV two part to raise the numbers a bit. However, since it doesn't appear to be changing much day over day maybe now isn't the time. Knowing there is still a lot of time left for tank maturity I was thinking if the calcium and mag was a bit higher it would help the Coralline algae and what sps frags I do have. My concern is that I'll be adding and it isn't being consumed the values would go too high.

Thanks!

It's fine to boost them to, say, 420 ppm calcium in one dose and 1300 ppm magnesium in a few doses. No need for a dosing pump and regular dosing if you are not needing to dose alkalinity (what is it?). If alk is not dropping, the calcium and magnesium are not either.

 

[User1]

It's fine to boost them to, say, 420 ppm calcium in one dose and 1300 ppm magnesium in a few doses. No need for a dosing pump and regular dosing if you are not needing to dose alkalinity (what is it?). If alk is not dropping, the calcium and magnesium are not either.

I left that off, didn't I. Sorry. The Hannah checker is reporting 7.8 each day I test. I think one day it read 7.7 but could be user error. I was going to ask a question with regards to a one time boost / correction and recommended product. I was going to use a off the shelf product for a bit while the tank and I mature with regards to maintenance practices. Going from a 40 breeder to a 210 gallon is a bit different and right now the corals are not providing a lot of feedback. Figured the right approach is to see if I can test and catch a pattern or at least start to document it for later decisions.

Thanks by the way.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

You're welcome.

If the alk is stable, calcium and magnesium aren't changing much.

 

[fishead]

Hi Randy, thanks for the info. Just wondering if you can please try and find any holes in my water management plan for this tank:
I have access to really nice clean natural salt water here at Port Stephens on east coast of Australia and fill a 1000 litre container.
Bought an Auto Aqua auto water changer to do 10 litre per day water changes on the 500 litre system.
Plan to dose kalk from a sealed still Brute through a Kamoer doser. Plan to control the dose with the doser's brain and as a fail safe have Apex shut it down if pH spikes.
Apex will also keep an eye on the auto water changer and heaters.
So the 1000 litres NSW will last 100 days. Will the water be good to go for that long? I read in another thread that calcium might precipitate if the water is aerated - I don't plan on aerating it. What are your views on all that please mate?
Thanks again for your time. Really appreciate your help Randy!
Edit to ad more to the picture: Sump has a remote deep sand bed section containing 60 litres of wild collected live sand (as much for biodiversity as nitrates) and a Nyos 160 skimmer.
5000 litre per hour return pump and two Tunze 6255 in display.
ATI powermodule 6 x 54w - probably get a SB strip too.
Live rock bare bottom display.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Hi Randy, thanks for the info. Just wondering if you can please try and find any holes in my water management plan for this tank:
I have access to really nice clean natural salt water here at Port Stephens on east coast of Australia and fill a 1000 litre container.
Bought an Auto Aqua auto water changer to do 10 litre per day water changes on the 500 litre system.
Plan to dose kalk from a sealed still Brute through a Kamoer doser. Plan to control the dose with the doser's brain and as a fail safe have Apex shut it down if pH spikes.
Apex will also keep an eye on the auto water changer and heaters.
So the 1000 litres NSW will last 100 days. Will the water be good to go for that long? I read in another thread that calcium might precipitate if the water is aerated - I don't plan on aerating it. What are your views on all that please mate?
Thanks again for your time. Really appreciate your help Randy!
Edit to ad more to the picture: Sump has a remote deep sand bed section containing 60 litres of wild collected live sand (as much for biodiversity as nitrates) and a Nyos 160 skimmer.
5000 litre per hour return pump and two Tunze 6255 in display.
ATI powermodule 6 x 54w - probably get a SB strip too.
Live rock bare bottom display.

Aeration of the NSW won't cause precipitation.

My concern with NSW that isn't aerated is that it may become stagnant (producing hydrogen sulfide) as organics in it degrade. In that sense it is different than artificial salt water than can be stored long periods without aeration.

 

[fishead]

Thanks Randy. Would aerating keep it from stagnating? Any other solution?

 

[VbReefer]

regarding the 2 part recipeS and your recommendation To dose a certain amount of magnesium after finishing a gallon of both parts a&b.
Should I Still do this if dosing Mag daily to maintain levels? Or is this only for those that that don't dose magnesium daily or weekly?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

regarding the 2 part recipeS and your recommendation To dose a certain amount of magnesium after finishing a gallon of both parts a&b.
Should I Still do this if dosing Mag daily to maintain levels? Or is this only for those that that don't dose magnesium daily or weekly?

What product are you dosing for magnesium now?

If you are dosing every day, you can just figure the dose of the two part magnesium part and dose it every day.

 

[ckrausnc]

Hello Randy I am a little confused about my reef's chemistry. I recently purchased a miluawkee salinity tester and discovered my salinity was at roughly 1.023 sg. I slowly raised to 1.026 sg but forgot to monitor my alk calc and mag. As you can see bellow my levels are elevated from the added salt top off.

8-05-18
1.025
1500 to 1530mg
500 to 510 calc
11.5 dkh

Top off with Salt water

8-08-18
1.026 sg
1530 mg
500 calc
11.35 dkh

In an attempt to balance my water i added a weak kalkwasser for my ato. 1/2 tsp per gallon. My intention was that the added kalk would precipitate the excess levels od alk and calc but in the two above readings you see they stay the same essentially. Should I just use ro water and skip water changes or keep adding kalk.

 

[databox]

Morning Randy.

So I'm beginning the process of dosing two part. I decided to purchase the BRS Two part pharma pouches.
I am trying to get my levels right..then begin my daily maintenance dosing.

My calcium and alkalinity are about right.. 450 for Ca (Salifert kit) and 8.3 for the alk, (Hanna Checker) but my Mg is low, it reads 1100 on a Salifert test kit. From what I've read 1350 mg is closer to the optimal.

Using the BRS calculator, to get from 1100 to 1350 with the liquid Mg that came with the BRS two part kit I'd need to add 1713.7 ml of their Mg. That seems like a lot, but I'm probably wrong.

My total system, tank and sump, is 85 gallons, temp 78.8, using Red Sea Blue bucket salt. It's a mixed reef set up.

Is it safe to add that much at once?

 

[databox]

Morning Randy.

So I'm beginning the process of dosing two part. I decided to purchase the BRS Two part pharma pouches.
I am trying to get my levels right..then begin my daily maintenance dosing.

My calcium and alkalinity are about right.. 450 for Ca (Salifert kit) and 8.3 for the alk, (Hanna Checker) but my Mg is low, it reads 1100 on a Salifert test kit. From what I've read 1350 mg is closer to the optimal.

Using the BRS calculator, to get from 1100 to 1350 with the liquid Mg that came with the BRS two part kit I'd need to add 1713.7 ml of their Mg. That seems like a lot, but I'm probably wrong.

My total system, tank and sump, is 85 gallons, temp 78.8, using Red Sea Blue bucket salt. It's a mixed reef set up.

Is it safe to add that much at once?

I told you the wrong salt mix...It's Red Sea Coral Pro salt. Don't know if it makes a difference.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'd be surprised if you could get to 1100 ppm magnesium with red Sea Coral Pro unless you are not doing any water changes for a long time.

What test kit?

 

[databox]

I'm pretty good about water changes. Usually 5-8 gallons weekly.

My Mg test kit is Salifert

 

[CherBear811]

@Randy Holmes-Farley Question.... I see a lot of people discussing dosing H2O2 to help with dinos, usually noting they are using 6%, which I can't find anywhere in the small town where I live. I would like to dose appropriately... would doubling my 3% H2O2 be the equivalent? It seems ridiculous to ask, but I don't do anything with my tank unless I am sure - especially where oxidizing agents are involved. The 3% is working when applied directly (ex: Q-tip soaked in 3% H2O2 then wiping off dinos off of frag rack knocks the dinos down to almost eradication in those places. But I can't do that for the tips of the corals were some strands exist. So, if I am trying to replicate 1-2 ml per 10 gallons of 6%, can I double my the dose of 3% to achieve the same result? Thanks!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

@Randy Holmes-Farley Question.... I see a lot of people discussing dosing H2O2 to help with dinos, usually noting they are using 6%, which I can't find anywhere in the small town where I live. I would like to dose appropriately... would doubling my 3% H2O2 be the equivalent? It seems ridiculous to ask, but I don't do anything with my tank unless I am sure - especially where oxidizing agents are involved. The 3% is working when applied directly (ex: Q-tip soaked in 3% H2O2 then wiping off dinos off of frag rack knocks the dinos down to almost eradication in those places. But I can't do that for the tips of the corals were some strands exist. So, if I am trying to replicate 1-2 ml per 10 gallons of 6%, can I double my the dose of 3% to achieve the same result? Thanks!

Yes, if you have a recipe you like, doubling a 3% solution will match a 6% solution once mixed into the tank. It wouldn't be the same for direct application, of course.