sesbalders
Active Member
Just be mindful that you will probably never get a 0 ammonia reading with API kits
Another Fishless Cycle question
- Thread starter Drewposi
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- cycle tank
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Drewposi
Community Member
They said 1.25
Quit worrying about nitrite throw away test strips those are used for swimming pool guessing not reefs
A lfs can't quarantine effectively due to proximity and aerosols from other tanks the clowns likely have brook
You don't have a cycle issue it's a common disease issue from no quarantine at home
Reefs don't factor nitrite it doesn't matter one way or another
You had a full reef to stock, corals and clean up crew etc, so buying qt fish at the start is a waste bc the next wet addition from the lfs to your tank is a disease vector and will/ has undone the partial qt they claim to have done.
A lfs can't quarantine effectively due to proximity and aerosols from other tanks the clowns likely have brook
You don't have a cycle issue it's a common disease issue from no quarantine at home
Reefs don't factor nitrite it doesn't matter one way or another
You had a full reef to stock, corals and clean up crew etc, so buying qt fish at the start is a waste bc the next wet addition from the lfs to your tank is a disease vector and will/ has undone the partial qt they claim to have done.
Drewposi
Community Member
Roger. What’s my plan do help them out then? I don’t have anything else in the system yet. Is there a way to treat them before I add corals or cuc?
I thought it was a good effort though to buy qt and try to eliminate that problem at the start. There's just so much nuance to it all, fish keeping is just dang tough nowadays and it didn't used to be like that. You are well done cycling so no more concerns there, this order of ops was your challenge:
www.reef2reef.com
Fish get stocked last vs first
You stock the tank first with non fish life, then fallow it, then add qt fish but there isn't any lfs I would trust for that, somehow they'd undo it all.
Has anyone done coral/inverts only and no fish at first?
Fish seem to be the main cause of disruption in a display tank, given the current circumstances in the hobby with pests (ich, velvet, parasites, etc.). I have been in this hobby for 18 years, and the amount of pests that are showing up lately is much more (could also be the fact that we have...
www.reef2reef.com
Fish get stocked last vs first
You stock the tank first with non fish life, then fallow it, then add qt fish but there isn't any lfs I would trust for that, somehow they'd undo it all.
Drewposi
Community Member
Thanks for the thread. But as far as my current situation. The fish aren’t acting strange anymore I think they are just being clowns and staying in the back of the tank. They are swimming normal and look pretty normal as well other like I said a few small dots above their heads. I’ll get some video later. Planned on adding a small CUC today or tomorrow should I hold off on that? Was also gonna grab a couple frags too. Does the fish being stressed out pose a risk to frags and a CUC? Water perimeters are all well within good ranges. Should I wait on those for now to see what happens with the fish? They seem to be getting back close to normal and moving all around the tank. Guess the ticket will be if they eat today. Thanks for all the responses man!I thought it was a good effort though to buy qt and try to eliminate that problem at the start. There's just so much nuance to it all, fish keeping is just dang tough nowadays and it didn't used to be like that. You are well done cycling so no more concerns there, this order of ops was your challenge:
Has anyone done coral/inverts only and no fish at first?
Fish seem to be the main cause of disruption in a display tank, given the current circumstances in the hobby with pests (ich, velvet, parasites, etc.). I have been in this hobby for 18 years, and the amount of pests that are showing up lately is much more (could also be the fact that we have...
Fish get stocked last vs first
You stock the tank first with non fish life, then fallow it, then add qt fish but there isn't any lfs I would trust for that, somehow they'd undo it all.
Drewposi
Community Member
****UPDATE****
Everyone’s happy. Ammonia is 0, Nitrites are 0, Nitrates sitting around 2ish. Just seeing my first bit of tiny brown algea spots on the rock. CUC is in. But I may add a few more astreas and hermits. The water is a tad cloudy, it’s been a while but that’s normal with the bacteria built up right? I cleaned the sponges, filter media, and filter sock and have my lights on extremely low blues at 10% whites around 4%. Just making sure this cloudiness is normal thanks guys!
You can kinda see the small brown algae dots.
Everyone’s happy. Ammonia is 0, Nitrites are 0, Nitrates sitting around 2ish. Just seeing my first bit of tiny brown algea spots on the rock. CUC is in. But I may add a few more astreas and hermits. The water is a tad cloudy, it’s been a while but that’s normal with the bacteria built up right? I cleaned the sponges, filter media, and filter sock and have my lights on extremely low blues at 10% whites around 4%. Just making sure this cloudiness is normal thanks guys!
You can kinda see the small brown algae dots.
Drewposi
Community Member
Update. Been riding great with 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. Had a little algae bloom. Added clean up crew. They knocked it out pretty good. I had a snail die a couple days ago and didn’t catch it. Now I have an ammonia spike and nitrites coming up too. Is this normal? Secondary cycle? Or result of Dead snail?
0s yesterday almost 4ppm today on ammonia!!? Should I do a water change?!?
0s yesterday almost 4ppm today on ammonia!!? Should I do a water change?!?
your reef will balance out any common upset such as a dead snail. remove dead things before they rot where possible, ignore the times you can't. no further testing of ammonia or nitrite can help you on this tank it can only cause doubt and unneeded redirection. allow ammonia to fall as it will, no cycled reef tank plugged in and running will fail to control it once cycled, and you're cycled. what that ammonia test reads above does not matter, don't run it anymore. nitrite has no factor in display tank reefkeeping, don't own the kit (it doesn't matter if it's up, middle, or zero, its neutral)
we cease testing for these params for a reason: misreads causes people to dump in things that skew the balance in the tank for a wasted need.
we cease testing for these params for a reason: misreads causes people to dump in things that skew the balance in the tank for a wasted need.
the reason you didn't report a tank of all dead animals is because the system handles some ammonia loading just fine. that reading above has been seen in ten thousand reef tanks without a single death, because api is easily tripped up by many things to make a false overread. one common one is through Prime, people add it (per the reaction sequence warned above) and don't tell us-then they post a prime induced misread, and reef peers have you dumping various things into the water based on a test kit that shouldn't be ran. if you're determined to test ammonia, get a seneye machine for two hundred dollars, don't run any other ammonia tests here or doubt and unenjoyment will come your way, via doubt.
I have about ten threads on file where a simple water change of 30% caused that reading above, which wasn't an ammonia spike at all it was a test error based on harmless organics upwelled into the water. reef tanks don't store ammonia to release it upon water change, that doesn't happen. it's not locked in the sand somewhere waiting to erupt. that test kit has caused two million false reactions in reefing. retire it
I have about ten threads on file where a simple water change of 30% caused that reading above, which wasn't an ammonia spike at all it was a test error based on harmless organics upwelled into the water. reef tanks don't store ammonia to release it upon water change, that doesn't happen. it's not locked in the sand somewhere waiting to erupt. that test kit has caused two million false reactions in reefing. retire it
Drewposi
Community Member
I appreciate it. Tomorrow was my scheduled water change in guess that will probably help right?
there's nothing to help, thats a reading that can be caused by the actual water change or it may lower, it's not an accurate kit. it's important you don't run it in the future that way nothing seems like it needs help. all reefs have some losses, the tank handles it just fine even without a water change. remove what you can see is dead and even if you can't a snail or a fish isn't going to crash a reef tank via ammonia.
the toil over extended cycling has you violating fish disease protocol right and left, that's what w get the fish. these recently added snails weren't fallow prepped nor the fish coming in I'll bet. all concerning and preps need aimed at fish disease preps from the disease forum.
the toil over extended cycling has you violating fish disease protocol right and left, that's what w get the fish. these recently added snails weren't fallow prepped nor the fish coming in I'll bet. all concerning and preps need aimed at fish disease preps from the disease forum.
Presence of nitrite would seemingly confirm the high ammonia reading, but only if it were lower previously, which seems to be the case here.Update. Been riding great with 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. Had a little algae bloom. Added clean up crew. They knocked it out pretty good. I had a snail die a couple days ago and didn’t catch it. Now I have an ammonia spike and nitrites coming up too. Is this normal? Secondary cycle? Or result of Dead snail?
0s yesterday almost 4ppm today on ammonia!!? Should I do a water change?!?
Yes, waterchange but make sure temp and salinity matches.
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