Acrylic Fabrication Q & A

[Lowell Lemon]

@imustbenuts The seam is just slightly out of square on the end either due to sanding or scraping or in the case of a router the fence is just out of square to the largest flute on the bit. You will be fine when you bond on the top or bottom as long as the seam fills and pulls material from the joint. If not you my have to use a thickened cement or small cube to seal the corner. In construction of aquariums I use a machine that cuts off the top and bottom material and decks the parts flat before bonding on the top or bottom. Custom made machine for my purposes. Right now it is apart and in storage or I would post a pic to show how it works. A large bed joiner will do the same thing but it is harder to control on larger aquariums and filters. Nice bond otherwise. Did you use Weldon #3 or #4? If so that may be the reason for the open bond on the end of your part. Think you will be fine though.

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

In construction of aquariums I use a machine that cuts off the top and bottom material and decks the parts flat before bonding on the top or bottom.

Man that sounds awesome I want to see that!!!

I caught a snippet on Tanked one time where they guy was sanding the top/bottom edge of the assembly with what was basically an armature that was connected to a post adjacent to the build, the arm had some kind of abrasive on it (maybe attached to a flat plank) and the guy was standing next to the tank moving the arm back and forth, kind of like a manual planer or sander if you can envision that. See I watch that show to catch the 2 seconds in each show where they show you a little trick that they use...I have no free time to watch it anymore but when I did it seemed that there was always something like that in each show...

 

[cromag27]

I have no idea how they get their tanks level using that arm, but they do! I've seen them do it in person. despite the goofy scripted nature of that show, they absolutely know how to build tanks.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

I have no idea how they get their tanks level using that arm, but they do! I've seen them do it in person. despite the goofy scripted nature of that show, they absolutely know how to build tanks. Except for the 1100 gallon in Canada that blew a panel in the customers home...( I digress).

There is a radial arm machine made for granite that could be used for acrylic tanks. It sells for about $12,000.00 new but as the machine arm wears the pivot areas will allow
movement on the machine end. The machine I use is my own creation. As a result I can 'deck' any 60" length tank up to 36" tall. This is the standard tank size made with heat bent radius corners in the front right and left sides. I designed it and had a local machine shop build it for me. Works slick and speeds up the process of standard tank making. For a price I can provide a machine to anyone who wants one! Just let me know I take pay pal and major credit cards...really!

 

[Turbo's Aquatics]

I want pics!

 

[imustbenuts]

@imustbenuts The seam is just slightly out of square on the end either due to sanding or scraping or in the case of a router the fence is just out of square to the largest flute on the bit. You will be fine when you bond on the top or bottom as long as the seam fills and pulls material from the joint. If not you my have to use a thickened cement or small cube to seal the corner. In construction of aquariums I use a machine that cuts off the top and bottom material and decks the parts flat before bonding on the top or bottom. Custom made machine for my purposes. Right now it is apart and in storage or I would post a pic to show how it works. A large bed joiner will do the same thing but it is harder to control on larger aquariums and filters. Nice bond otherwise. Did you use Weldon #3 or #4? If so that may be the reason for the open bond on the end of your part. Think you will be fine though.

Thanks for the info. I used Weldon #4. This being my first build I don't know what to expect. My design is a little more complex than a simple box. I am hopeful it goes well. Often wonder with the time I put into my DIY projects why I just don't buy it from a company. I guess I just like the satisfaction of telling people I built that.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

@imustbenuts
Yeah I know the satisfaction of building my own...that is how I got lost in the hobby/business for over 20 years only to wake up and say I spent how much developing my own brand?
You might be bitten by the bug if you keep fooling around with acrylic. And if it all goes wrong I can sell you a lot of equipment and some know how to make anything you want up to crazy size if you have the credit card! Lol. You should mix your own solvent look up the recipe that Floyd R Turbo mentioned on this thread. Will make better and stronger bonds for you.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

I want pics!

Sorry I should not give away the farm if you know what I mean. I may need to fire up the old girl and make me some more tanks soon. I would love to put a small foot print store together in my retirement and specialize in freshwater planted and reef aquariums. I have given away to many good ideas in the past...but I can sell you one made to order by my friends and I. What size do you want?

 

[pushtc]

Thanks for this post . Read all 17 pages lol I've been doing some studying on making display tanks and happen to run across this thread . Originally I saw a post from 2010 from troylee and he was using a infrared curing lamp to bend the acrylic . Does anybody else use this method and maybe can tell me the specs of the light so I can purchase one similar. Strip heaters don't seem to be able to heat 1/2 inch all the way through and I think heating both sides would be a headache. Thanks in advance

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Thanks for this post . Read all 17 pages lol I've been doing some studying on making display tanks and happen to run across this thread . Originally I saw a post from 2010 from troylee and he was using a infrared curing lamp to bend the acrylic . Does anybody else use this method and maybe can tell me the specs of the light so I can purchase one similar. Strip heaters don't seem to be able to heat 1/2 inch all the way through and I think heating both sides would be a headache. Thanks in advance

FTM Plastics offers a wide heat zone up to 1". You can purchase the ceramic insert from the strip heater on their site and place it on top of the heat zone and in effect heating both sides of the acrylic at the same time. Or you can buy two strip heaters and heat both sides at the same time. FTM Plastics on the web. It is not cheap to buy a strip heater and controller. Or they offer 2" wide silicone strip heaters that will mark off slightly but you can place one on top and one on the bottom for the heat zone necessary to bend 1/2". I do not recommend the infrared curing lamps due to the inability to control the heat zone on the acrylic. You could bubble one area and have the other to cold to form causing a slit in the formed area. Wish you well on your project.

 

[pushtc]

Ok thank you

 

[cromag27]

Hey Lowell, can you explain how you made this?

While I agree with Floyd on the methods he has outlined on this thread there is one area where we differ so far. The use of pins is the correct method for construction...however using the solvent recipe he provided I recommend a soak of the seam for about 60 seconds at least before pulling the pins. This gives adequate time for the solvent to attack both surfaces and avoid a splash and run when the pin is pulled. The area around the seam can develop a soaked blemish for lack of a better term if the solvent is allowed to pool outside of the actual seam area. If you allow the material to soak for too long the seam may start to dry out and require more solvent to prevent a bubbled seam. This is part of the art of acrylic fabrication to reduce the 'run' around the seam area. I pictured a fence system I use to remove the saw marks from the acrylic prior to bonding. This is a two flute solid carbide bit for acrylic purchased from FTM Plastics on the web. One pass is all that is needed per side. My saw is set up to over size the cuts to offset for the .200" taken off by the router. The fence is made of .472" cell cast acrylic and has been in use for 30 plus years. It replaced a Jet joiner with carbide blades at one tenth of the cost. Works great and can be adjusted for various bit sizes.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Hey Lowell, can you explain how you made this?

A really good table saw like a Powermatic 66 or PM2000. I cut a strip of .944 cell cast acrylic by about 4" then made a second cut .02" narrower on one half the distance of the strip of acrylic. Then drilled a hole through the center about 1 1/2" diameter throught the infeed and out feed side (right in the middle) routed two slots for T slot bolts and nuts. Mounted the Porter Cable router under the table and lined up the infeed side (narrow side first) and the outfeed side to the cutter using a precision ground straight edge (not stamped steel). Or you could pay someone to CNC the fence for you. I could get one done by a local shop and send it to you if you have no other way of getting one. Easy to use once you get it set to the cutter. I use push handles to keep my fingers out of the way. PM me if you need a drawing or a part cut and sent to you. I may have my CNC up and running soon if I can get my son (just graduated as an engineer) to help me update it.

 

[pushtc]

A really good table saw like a Powermatic 66 or PM2000. I cut a strip of .944 cell cast acrylic by about 4" then made a second cut .02" narrower on one half the distance of the strip of acrylic. Then drilled a hole through the center about 1 1/2" diameter throught the infeed and out feed side (right in the middle) routed two slots for T slot bolts and nuts. Mounted the Porter Cable router under the table and lined up the infeed side (narrow side first) and the outfeed side to the cutter using a precision ground straight edge (not stamped steel). Or you could pay someone to CNC the fence for you. I could get one done by a local shop and send it to you if you have no other way of getting one. Easy to use once you get it set to the cutter. I use push handles to keep my fingers out of the way. PM me if you need a drawing or a part cut and sent to you. I may have my CNC up and running soon if I can get my son (just graduated as an engineer) to help me update it.

Quote me a price to make me one also lol

 

[pushtc]

I've read each post over and over trying to figure out what exact router bits to buy . Im buying all the tools before i start my project .Anyway someone can send me a link to what they regularly use ? I bought a porter cable fixed router and will make a large router table . Using a Diablo 80 teeth blade on the table saw . After what I read . I use the table saw and cut the pieces. But Make them longer to make up for what the router takes off. Run it through the router to smooth the joints for gluing right ? And what is the upcut bit for ? Also would I get a router bit with the ball bearing or I won't need it since I will be using a fence ? I appreciate the help.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

@pushtc
You will need a flush trimming rounter bit and a double flute 1/2" shank straight cut bit both are on the FTM Plastics web site. Look through the router bits offered and follow the recommendations on this thread to Cromag08 about the bits and fence. FTM also offers saw blades just for acrylic.

You will need to oversize the parts in length for the face and back panels as well as the bottom and top if you use one. The flush trim the excess after bonding with the flush trimming bit. There is a picture of the old fence on this thread as well.

Also look at making your own solvent mix for higher bond strength than the Weldon products. Floyd R Turbo gave a good mix on this thread for tank or filter construction.

Enjoy!

 

[pushtc]

Ok Thank you for the fast response. I'll go through and read again

 

[Lowell Lemon]

@pushtc ,
Also remember to use the foam tape and pin method for solvent soaking the seams that Floyd R Turbo mentions here as well and you will have water clear and strong bonds.

 

[pushtc]

Here's a screenshot of the router bits . Which 1s are the exact one your speaking off ?

 

[pushtc]

And I'm still trying to locate floyds solvent mix if you can give me a general page that would be great