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Hi, wanted to do a rimless acrylic tank of 36" x 20" x 12", Is it safe? What's the thickness to use?
I go up to 8" on a rimless frag tank that is 36" long, going to 12" tall IMO it would bow insanely and blow out the corner seam within a few years. What formula are you going by?The formula recommends .472" or 1/2" cell cast acrylic for a rimless design.
I'm not an expert on rimless tank thickness, I'll have to check. But my educated guess tells me 1" minimum for 12" tall, maybe 1.25"
I go up to 8" on a rimless frag tank that is 36" long, going to 12" tall IMO it would bow insanely and blow out the corner seam within a few years. What formula are you going by?
James had an opinion on those manufacturer formulas, IIRC it was that for a rimmed tank they went too thick, and for a rimless tank they recommended too thin.
That was just off the top of my head, it might be 3/4" but I think 1/2" for a 12" rimless is not enough.Just curious why twice the formula thickness or more for this tank? I know there is some water absorption but only about 2%. Following the formula by Acrylite seems to be plenty of thickness for all designs top or not.
James Steele, Envision Acrylics (he's on another board)Who is James?
but then again, you build lots of things, so those seams are probably rock solid, made with mixed solvent vs pre-made, professionally prepped edges, etc.And I never had a corner blow out in the sumps or tanks built with Acrylite's or PolyCast's recommended formulas.
Thanks, everyone for the advise, I think to be safe I'll go with 1/2" with 2" brace.
Love the lids.The guys at my plastic supplier talked me out of switching from acrylic to polycarb because it's softer than acrylic and more prone to warping due to gravity.
Thanks for the reply Bud. I was worried. This being my first build I don't know what to expect. Keeping my fingers crossed.That's a pretty common issue I get also. The corners are the strongest point in the build so a little air creep like that is 1) hard to avoid (maybe someone has a tip?) and 2) when you put the top/bottom on and fill the joint with solvent, this area will get filled also. I'm sure there is a little trick to prevent that, like maybe blue painters tape (and scraping it off afterwards). But this is an example of why you use overage for a fillet: the seam is awesome all along the edge, then in the area where the 2 pieces are flush, that's where air gets in. If the whole joint were flush-fit, the whole joint would have air in it.
Long and short is, you're good.