3d Printed Aquarium Parts Archive

[Projects with Sam]

The nozzle maxes out at 260 C , I tried running it at that temp for a couple of minutes but still didn't budge

I ordered replacement silicone shields and have a bunch of extra nozzles from when I ordered the blue tubing to replace the junky white tubing that connects extruder to hot end. Just seems so crazy that both printers crapped out on me within 24 hours of each other

I've found that with the MK8 hot-end, you need to tighten everything up when its hot. Also, the heat break (filament guide tube between hot and cold sides) going into the top of the heat block should be tightened first, then the nozzle; ideally you'll bump the nozzle against the break and have ~1/2 a thread left so you know you've got them together.

Also, if you're using a full metal hot-end, the capricorn tubing doesn't provide that much of a benefit; I've found it sometimes adds friction to the extrude.

 

[Projects with Sam]

disconnect the hot end cooling fan so the heat break and heat sink get hot too.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

disconnect the hot end cooling fan so the heat break and heat sink get hot too.

its 3:30 P.M. , just getting packed up and ready to head home and destroy this task. I have quite a few new ideas to go to battle this evening. this is fantastic advice. thank you.

and also thank you for previous comment , if by chance i do get the nozzle out then i will know how to properly screw it back in to avoid this problem in the future. probably tightened it too much or not enough and thats how i ended up in this fiasco of a problme.

funny thing is i replaced the nozzle on the ender 3 basic printer 2 days ago and didnt think anything of it, just screwed right off, dont even think i had it raised to temperature. i cleaned and replaced everything, tightening the *funny name* screws on the x/y/z axis wheels and retensioning the belts, and you should have seen the lines on this thing after it printed. so clean it didnt even look real

 

[Projects with Sam]

disconnect the hot end cooling fan so the heat break and heat sink get hot too.

make sure to reconnect it or you'll melt filament in your cold end. & its a fire hazard.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

It was the vice grips holding the heating block in place and (don’t make fun) a couple of well timed grunts of frustration and contempt, but I got the sucker. Thanks again for the tips & tricks. Really says something about this community that I can find help troubleshooting 3D printers better than a google search. Best $25/yr I spend. Whoo whoo

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Ita hard to tell, sort of looks like it was cross threaded...

 

[Double monti 61]

I have a hang on back protein skimmer that uses a u tube for an intake but it is designed to be completely submerged and I would like to make the intake an overflow and I have an idea of how to do it so maybe it could be made by 3D printing?

 

[Projects with Sam]

I have a hang on back protein skimmer that uses a u tube for an intake but it is designed to be completely submerged and I would like to make the intake an overflow and I have an idea of how to do it so maybe it could be made by 3D printing?

first work on drawing it!

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Ita hard to tell, sort of looks like it was cross threaded...

Pardon the ignorance but what do you mean by cross threaded?

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Pardon the ignorance but what do you mean by cross threaded?

Simple way to put it. normally, the male threads on the brass nozzle engages the path of the female threads on the heat block. Normally they align and index properly allowing the threads to mate and screw in.

But if for some reason when the threads don't line up properly because it's being forced or the nozzle (in this case) is crooked when starting it, it will result in the threads binding and not engage the path intended, damaging the threads.

In this case the softer metal recieves the bulk of the damage and the heat block should be fine.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

Simple way to put it. normally, the male threads on the brass nozzle engages the path of the female threads on the heat block. Normally they align and index properly allowing the threads to mate and screw in.

But if for some reason when the threads don't line up properly because it's being forced or the nozzle (in this case) is crooked when starting it, it will result in the threads binding and not engage the path intended, damaging the threads.

In this case the softer metal recieves the bulk of the damage and the heat block should be fine.

you know that makes sense because i was about 99% sure when I was trying to get it loose that it was not a perfect 90 degree angle between the heat block and nozzle, kind of was pointing down and left. amazed that it still printed properly like this. it was definitely wonky a bit to one side. my new nozzles and silicone shileds come in today from amazon so i am ready to start printing some more !!! I am bragging a bit now but I designed a filter sock holder that has a screw that tightens it up against the glass to hold it in place.

test printed a screw and the female hole, both 15 mm and added threads to them in fusion and they screw right in. way easier than it should have been

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

It's amazing how layered printing with (average) 0.2mm layering can make adequate thumbscrews.

The downside is that because of the layering, they can't handle a lot of torque. If I read it correctly a 15mm diameter screw should endure some torque.

 

[D3DPrintedThingz]

It's amazing how layered printing with (average) 0.2mm layering can make adequate thumbscrews.

The downside is that because of the layering, they can't handle a lot of torque. If I read it correctly a 15mm diameter screw should endure some torque.

Yes 15 mm diameter and 30 mm length. it was M15 X 1.5 in fusion 360, whatever that means. Haven’t printed the actual holder to test the screw but the same actions on the same pieces should yield same results I’d think

 

[Smokeshow]

Printed the filter roller. Still waiting on the electronics but wanted to get the filter in place. Can use a 9v battery to turn the motor as needed until the rest get here

 

[Smokeshow]

Aslo, it's a very tight fit in my 55 gal sump. My motor was about 28mm longer than the motor cover in the file so had to redesign it some. Using AquaMaxx AFP-1 6" fleece filter roll. It's about 6.2" wide but it'll work.

 

[Projects with Sam]

Aslo, it's a very tight fit in my 55 gal sump. My motor was about 28mm longer than the motor cover in the file so had to redesign it some. Using AquaMaxx AFP-1 6" fleece filter roll. It's about 6.2" wide but it'll work.

Checkout Precision Converting
Steve can do custom sized rolls usually less expensive then manufactures' !

 

[Smokeshow]

That's awesome. Thanks for the link.
Even with the 2x 4" filter socks before the roller it's pulling alot of stuff out. It was almost to the point of overflowing when I checked on it this morning. Electrical should be here in the next day or 2

 

[Smokeshow]

Has anyone wired up one of the delay relay switches before? Having a time trying to program it and the relay isn't actually switching on. Think I may have gotten a dud.
This is what I'm working with

 

[Projects with Sam]

OrcaSlicer:

Releases · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer

G-code generator for 3D printers (Bambu, Prusa, Voron, VzBot, RatRig, Creality, etc.) - SoftFever/OrcaSlicer

github.com

 

[Projects with Sam]

Though support seems broken to me...