If you’re dosing both bacteria and H2O2 and coral snow you’re counteracting the effects of any one given solution. You need to play the temporal game. H2o2 should be dosed after lights out and before the lights come on while the Dinos are still in the free floating stage and that should help your UV. 3-4 hrs into your light cycle that’s when you would dose microbacter 7. The UV should be off for a few hours after you dose microbacter 7 to get the benefits. Cyanoclean or cyano away, a bacterial strain that outcompetes cyano (from the same line as the zeovit products) is amazing for both cyano (did wonders for one of my tanks) and has helped make a dent for my bare bottom where I was battling Dinos. I would not advise coral snow at all during this time.
Worst tank on the planet.
- Thread starter Devisissy
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That's exactly it, if you want to continue to hover over your tank and force corrections then that's what you're going to continue to do.. when you manually add nitrifying bacteria it out compets the other strains of bacteria needed for the tank to mature. When you add coral snow, you're removing the phyto that you're adding, all that seems good because someone with little experience says it's good, but it becomes a crutch that holds your tank in the perpetual beginning stages.
The one thing that is going to solve this issue is to introduce sand, rock or biomedia teaming with robust bacteria strains from a thriving mature reef tank along with the micro fauna that is found on those substrates. Giving that time to seed your tank is the best possible approach.
Live rock is another option but isn't an alternative to the 1st option but a close 2nd.
And just so you know I'm not blowing smoke, regurgitating something someone said, this is from experience. here's a quick snapshot of my tank right now
OP
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I had the uv hooked up for a month. It did nothing. It's not very big. Maybe undersized. I was in a local group but broke up with them because they were so unhelpful and rude. If I was still in that group I would ask for sand from them. We have no local fish stores any longer. Not a one. I would have to drive over to the coast to find anything. I might break down and buy the gulf sand. Remove what I have then add the live sand. I'm done with everything else. Just keep dosing the MB7 I guess. Tank is a mess. I'm a mess....lol.
Again, you DO Not have to remove your existing sand, just sprinkle the Gulf sand over what you have.
Ro/Di water.
BetterJake
Active Member
Very likely you have dinos.
Microscope is going to be extremely important to identify which type of Dino.
One Dino type, osteoporosis, needs UV, and that UV has to be the right size for the tank to kill faster than the Dino’s replicate. The other Dino types do not “swim”, UV would have no effect and silicate dosing would be the treatment + keeping P/N off of zero for all types, phyto, pods, MB7.
It would also be useful to do an ICP test to make sure you don’t have any other major imbalances.
Dino X is a LAST RESORT, even after tends to just be a band aid and they come right back.
Keep in mind when “nuking” a tank with chemicals, it opens you up for risk from something else. Bryopsis competes with space with Cyano which competes for space with Dino’s. Remove one entirely and that opens the door for something to take over.
Microscope is going to be extremely important to identify which type of Dino.
One Dino type, osteoporosis, needs UV, and that UV has to be the right size for the tank to kill faster than the Dino’s replicate. The other Dino types do not “swim”, UV would have no effect and silicate dosing would be the treatment + keeping P/N off of zero for all types, phyto, pods, MB7.
It would also be useful to do an ICP test to make sure you don’t have any other major imbalances.
Dino X is a LAST RESORT, even after tends to just be a band aid and they come right back.
Keep in mind when “nuking” a tank with chemicals, it opens you up for risk from something else. Bryopsis competes with space with Cyano which competes for space with Dino’s. Remove one entirely and that opens the door for something to take over.
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littlefoxx
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Why is his paw getting taken off?(trigger warning all the algae)
Ok so brand new tank somehow gets byropsis. Since I have no corals I think ok let's treat it. Fluzocole and it's gone. Cool. Nope, now I have what looks like cyano. Ok fine, side effect of fluzocole let's just treat it. Chemiclean doesn't do crap. In fact everything is worse.
It's stingy, makes a sheets, easily removes, doesn't seem to bother livestock, grows on glass, sand, rocks. Grows back after removal within hours. Does not respond to three day blackout.
I went a whole month of no water changes, then one 20% each week. I tried uv.
I am currently dosing nitrates and phosphates to keep them at 10ppm nitrate and phosphate .01-.02 daily. Adding 20mL of MB7 daily, 10mL H2O2, and coral snow 15mL. Changing socks daily, and cleaning skimmer twice a day. No change so far.
I suck so bad at this. I'm keep trying and just keep fing it all up. At least I don't have corals. So I have what appears to be white turf algae, it doesn't come off like the rest of this stuff and it's getting blasted by the mp40. I also have about five specs of cotton candy algae that just appeared today. And what I think might be dinos? I don't know.
I don't have my microscope. I tried an experiment. One cup tank water each cup with a chunk of this algae. First is control, then I tried dinox in one cup, algae fix in another, fluzocole in another. All four algae chunks looked the same. Nothing changed. This stuff also clings to your arm hair if you put you arm in the tank. It's almost like this brown gunk is dead. But it's not. I'm at a loss.
SO JESUS TAKE THE WHEEL!
Here is some algae **** for you.
Oh and we are fostering this thing. I'm told he is cat. His name is Paws. On Monday his leg is getting removed. So he will then be a Tri Paw. See what I did there? Hopefully someone will want a cat with three legs.
bruno3047
Valuable Member
You could get rid of your Cyano by dosing EM Erythromycin from API according to directions. Second dose if the first dose doesn’t get rid of it. I control my GHA and anything that feeds on nitrates and phosphates by dosing a vinegar mix. Vinegar 2/3 and RO 1/3. Start out at 5 mL per day and increase by 5 mL per day until you start to see the algae die off, then stop for a week. If everything looks stable, then continue dosing at that level. The trick is to find what level of vinegar will control your algae without causing a bacteria bloom. Here’s a few photos of what my tank looks like today using this method. I like a little bit of GHA growth for my Angels and Tangs. They nibble at it all day. Good luck.
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100% sure this is dinos not cyano.
He was being fostered by my sister in law. A momma cat and six kittens. She noticed he wasn't using his foot so she called the foster center. They told her to wait 24hours. When you weigh less than a pound 24hrs is usually life or death. What was a tiny scratch from maybe one of his siblings turned into a hot swollen infected massive wound. They tried antibiotics, draining it, all sorts of meds. To no avail. He has to be fed every couple of hours which is why I'm in the best mood for sure, so she asked if we could babysit him. The vet looked at it on Friday and said it's not responding he is going to die let's get it off. Since it smells like my skimmer I must concur. Monday morning it will be removed and by the end of the day I will bring him back home to my quiet home for him to recoup. I'm hoping he heals fast so he can begin to play and learn cat things.
bruno3047
Valuable Member
You say you’re 100% sure it’s dinos and not cyano. Is that because the Chemi-clean didn’t work? Chemi-clean didn’t do anything on mine either. I tried the Erythromycin from API and not only did all the Cyano disappear, it never came back. Good luck.
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But the minimum is 20lbs. I'm going to have to use it all at $70.
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Because of it's behavior. I might have to dig that microscope out.
20lbs in your size tank will be just a sprinkling.
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Add about an inch. I think removing some and adding it would be better.
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Ok so of course it's airport pickup. The shipping is 140. Nope sorry. It's not a ton of money but I just can't justify it.
Indo pacific sea farm (ipsf.com) offers a $99 package that provided mudd and sand with their mix and match option.
I try to order from them once a year to rebalance my tank.
You usually have to pick up at the nearest FedEx location. Something worth considering.
I try to order from them once a year to rebalance my tank.
You usually have to pick up at the nearest FedEx location. Something worth considering.
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I don't need the mudd, I mean maybe? I'm gunna drive to seattle I guess. Maybe World Wide would sell me a bag of sand water.
Mudd is good stuff, all you're wanting to do is add bacteria strains to combat against all that dosing of MB7 you've been dosing.
The mudd is probably better than the sand. Mix it in with your sand and it will start spreading. Once it's mixed you won't even see it.
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I see. Yeah I am also dosing Bio Digest every 15 days. It doesn't seem to hurt. And my lost shrimps made a come back, they are alive, I was surprised. So I must have some serious porous rocks. I'm game for anything. Live sand will for sure help.
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