I was going to use it mainly for algae and bacteria, but man that’s a lot of flow
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Can't wait to see what you do with it!Picked up a “New to me” project.
36x30x24, external beam animal overflow, Armored corners, 3” euro brace, triple layer bottom (full glass, glass insert, starboard). 1/2” glass. HEAVY!
Made by Crystal Reef Aquatics.
Matching custom CRA sump and aluminum stand.
First job… manage wife aggro
I like the Nyos skimmers. 160 or 220 should work for a 125. Reef Octopus are also nice (I had the elite space saver).I’m looking for suggestions for a skimmer and internal return pump
Does not have to be a year, just once the tank has settled in. With dry rock you will go through a phase of hair algae. Once that dies down you are good to go. Rough timeline is that you will cycle the tank (so no ammonia showing), then you will go through this algae growth period for a month or two. Once your rock starts to turn a nice pink from coralline growth you are good to go.bta( I have read at least waiting a year for the tank to mature
After the cycle is done (Ammonia to zero) I would put in the clownfish and CUC. Then every few weeks you can add another fish. Try to go from least to most aggressive. Inches per gallon does not matter, it is more getting a mix that use different parts of the tank. Some stay on the bottom, others in the rocks and others swim more freely. Just watch for them to have a little home of theirAfter that I’m at a loss for smaller fish that the bta won’t bother, along with clean up crew.
Once the BTA finds a spot it won’t move. They like to have a nice amount of flow, light and a cave to foot in. It does not restrict the corals. The urchin will likely be a larger hinderance to corals as they can pick them up with their spikes. When you mount the corals, don’t cut off the whole plug, just cut off the stick part of the base leaving the flat table part. Then glue that to the rock. If the BTA decides to move and sit next to it, you can just pop off the coral and move it easily.Would love corals at some point, but have read that maybe a gamble with a bta.
I was actually thinking about a ro classic 150 sss for a skimmer. I do have an icecap gyre 2k on my 120g freshwater tank and 4 corellia nano pumps in my 75 gallon tank. Which I’ll be breaking down to sell. I’ll keep all the circulation pumps and the gyre. I also have a co2 tank and ph controller that I’m going to keep for the future( in case I need a calcium reactor) was looking at the ro various pumps. I know I’ll also need to buy a new ato. I have c-horse ato that comes with the tank but the controller seems doa. I would try to resurrect the euro reef skimmer that I was given. But I don’t have room for a 30” skimmer unless I ran it externally. I would have to find a pump for it anyway.Thank you for the response
I would urge you to reconsider or increase the priority on a controller/monitor/back up power system. Doesn't have to be fancy, can be DIY. I lost power last Christmas while I was out of town. I had someone checking every day... Bad pump tripped the gfci, power went out at 9pm, when they came to check at noon the next day, all my fish were dead.I have been thinking about a controller, but think I should get the basics before I think about a controller. I know the tank will come with a hybrid light( t-5/mh with moonlighting), it seems to be missing some of the mounting legs. May have to figure out how to suspend it. From the ceiling isn’t an option. I have been thinking about getting leds. Would like to find something inexpensive, but still effective.
Once again thank you for the input.