What is wrong with my tank? I'm open to any suggestion.

[MontyNowAReefer]

Hello,

I have a 400-liter tank and I'm currently dosing with AFR. Additionally, I'm running a small chaeto algae refugium during the nighttime. I've noticed that my hammer corals and frogspawn corals have begun to shrink, and my goniopora is not opening up as it should. Attached are some pictures for reference. Does anyone have an idea of what might be causing these issues? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

kh: 9.5
salinity: 34
temp: 25.1 C
ph: 8.4
ca: 465
mg: 1500
po4: 0.02
nitrate: 35

 

[Stang67]

What lights are you running and the schedule please? Increase po4 and salinity. Decrease calcium and alk. Flow may also be an issue. Sump or hob?

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

What lights are you running and the schedule please? Increase po4 and salinity. Decrease calcium and alk. Flow may also be an issue. Sump or hob?

My aquarium setup includes a 400-liter tank illuminated by one Radeon G6 Blue and one AI Prime 16 light fixture. I'm utilizing the Worldwide Corals (WWC) lighting schedule at 70% intensity. The system is equipped with a sump and a UV sterilizer that operates during the night. The water flow around the hammer and frogspawn corals is maintained at a moderate to low level to suit their needs. Additionally, I have a Bubble Magus Curve 8 protein skimmer in operation throughout the day to maintain water quality

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Your parameters are right on, so to me slowly dying is result of insufficient light. And sorry but AI Prime 16 is a nano light, it should be used on 15-20 gallon tanks, not on a 100+ gallon tank. I think the light is the issue here.

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

Your parameters are right on, so to me slowly dying is result of insufficient light. And sorry but AI Prime 16 is a nano light, it should be used on 15-20 gallon tanks, not on a 100+ gallon tank. I think the light is the issue here.

I initially considered lighting as a potential issue, but other corals in my tank, such as torches, Kung Pao, montiporas, and even an acropora, are all thriving. This led me to rule out lighting as the culprit. It seems like my phosphate levels might be a bit low. I've read that low phosphate can lead to atrophy, particularly in LPS corals. I'm wondering if anyone with experience in this area might offer some advice or insights?

 

[dwest]

How old is the tank? I didn’t see coralline algae on the rock so I’m wondering if the tank just needs a little more time before corals do well. But you said acropora are doing well so this is likely ruled out.

Also, I’m wondering what that brown stuff is on the sand is. Maybe dinos? A small bag of carbon in the sump might help. Very low phosphates can contribute to dinos. How are you measuring phosphates? I would not run the fuge at night until phosphates get above 0.1ppm or higher. Plus, stop any phosphate removal media (like GFO) if you are using it but didn’t mention it.

I would not base anything on goniopora health. They have been extremely tough for me. I can’t think of another coral that I’ve had more problems with and I’ve been reefing 30 years.

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

How old is the tank? I didn’t see coralline algae on the rock so I’m wondering if the tank just needs a little more time before corals do well. But you said acropora are doing well so this is likely ruled out.

Also, I’m wondering what that brown stuff is on the sand is. Maybe dinos? A small bag of carbon in the sump might help. Very low phosphates can contribute to dinos. How are you measuring phosphates? I would not run the fuge at night until phosphates get above 0.1ppm or higher. Plus, stop any phosphate removal media (like GFO) if you are using it but didn’t mention it.

I would not base anything on goniopora health. They have been extremely tough for me. I can’t think of another coral that I’ve had more problems with and I’ve been reefing 30 years.

Thank you very much for the responses. Reading your messages is sparking new ideas for me. My tank is relatively new, having been set up only 6 months ago. I use active carbon, and my refugium operates only at night with a very small amount of chaeto algae. I'm about to perform a water change of approximately 50 liters. Something that's been on my mind: I dose Red Sea AB+ daily, adhering to the recommended amount, and I also do target feeding every three days. Could it be possible that the AB+ is causing the corals to contract? Is there a chance that this could be the issue?

 

[dwest]

Thank you very much for the responses. Reading your messages is sparking new ideas for me. My tank is relatively new, having been set up only 6 months ago. I use active carbon, and my refugium operates only at night with a very small amount of chaeto algae. I'm about to perform a water change of approximately 50 liters. Something that's been on my mind: I dose Red Sea AB+ daily, adhering to the recommended amount, and I also do target feeding every three days. Could it be possible that the AB+ is causing the corals to contract? Is there a chance that this could be the issue?

I think it’s possible that the AB+ is causing problems. I really don’t know though as I don’t use anything other than kalkwasser, 2 part, and water changes. I personally don’t believe in other additives and think they are mostly marketing gimmicks. Doesn’t AFR already contain trace?

Be careful with the 50% water change. You’ll want to match the alkalinity of the water change water with tank water. Especially for the acro. I personally would do 3 or 4 successive 10-20% changes then observe.

I still would check the brown stuff on the sand for dinos. If you can get hold of a microscope you might learn something. When I had dinos, my euphyllia were the most effected.

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

After going dark, I realized that the base skeleton of these corals is brown instead of white. Could this be the issue?

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

After going dark, I realized that the base skeleton of these corals is brown instead of white. Could this be the issue?

I did not see any improvements this early morning. So, i need more advice pls

 

[Kmst80]

To me Euphyllia's are a relatively hard to keep coral. I lost 2 torches after they went fine for months and suddenly head after head shrunk till eventually only the skeleton was left.
I would have a look at your flow, you want a decent flow so the tentacles gently sway in the current, like dancing, but not being slapped from right to left. If to much flow they could easily get hurt on their own skeleton and infected what might bring on BJD(Brown Jelly Disease).
Check Magnesium, when i researched euphyllias i read they like Magnesium around the 1400 ppm...don't worry, just saw yours is 1500.
When ever my torches looked like your hammers they never came back for me, hope you have better luck.

 

[Koty]

IME your tank is way too young for these corals. Euphilias are very delicate and possibly need a well established microbiology. Your Mg is very high if your salinity measurement is accurate

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

IME your tank is way too young for these corals. Euphilias are very delicate and possibly need a well established microbiology. Your Mg is very high if your salinity measurement is accurate

I agree that my tank is too young for these corals. However, i have them and i need to try everything to save them i dosed po4 today and i did light target feeding. Tmorrow i will increase flow and light intensity a little.

 

[Doctorgori]

actually euphillias get fluffier in low flow…
I was gonna suggest turning down the flow temporarily and see if they expand …
slight disagreement with euphillias being difficult
just my experience but amongst them torches seem to be the most finicky, hammers the least …

 

[Koty]

I’d recommend carbon dosing not for nutrient reduction but to support bacterial growth.

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

Hi again, yesterday i set up a quarantine tank and dipped the corals that looked bad into hydrogen peroxide solution. Afterwards, I placed them in the quarantine tank. Now their current condition is as in the photos. They still dont look good. Any help will be welcome.

 

[Doctorgori]

here is the thing with euphillias and decline…
watch em in lights out/sleeping; how far have the polyps retracted into the skeleton?
IME Usually it’s a very fast or very slow decline and you will notice that the ones that will eventually recover don’t recede as far in as those doomed to die.

To me those are pretty far from certain death but it could be a lil while before you get full expansion

 

[MontyNowAReefer]

Today, i notoced something like this on the sides of the corals. I think they might be baby frogspawns however, there is nothing like this on the other corals and they are not oppening either. Perhaps there are multiple independent problems occuring. What would be your take on this?