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I really love strong opinions! Thank you very much for your contribution!Nitrate should be 5 to 10 for coral nutrition
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I really love strong opinions! Thank you very much for your contribution!Nitrate should be 5 to 10 for coral nutrition
I used to have a hybrid aquatic life 48" fixture with 4 T5s and 2 ai primes. A few weeks ago I replaced it with the photon pro v2. I used a PAR meter to adjust the new light to the same levels as there used to be. Haven't noticed any reaction from the corals, so I tend to not suspect the light.its more likely the phosphate, and pH. I would also check forums for par levels using your light it may be set too strong right now, gl and happy holidays
The nitrates are already pretty low, and I'm working on phosphates. I'd prefer eventually the refugium to export N and P rather than me doing water changes more often.^ increase water changes and filter sock or media change out frequency, to get nitrates and phosphates down by about half. Also i would maybe run a simple diy co2 scrubber for your protein skimmer to increase pH and make it more constant (if monitoring pH)
Just trying to help you understand why your corals are deteriorating quickly. If you are satisfied with lights and flow that only leaves water parameters and available nutrients. Your corals lack nitrates and your phosphate is slightly elevated. This is why new LPS corals struggle.I really love strong opinions! Thank you very much for your contribution!
1. My nitrates are in 1-2 range.
2. Do you think phosphates are the root cause? I'm already working on it.
1. My nitrates are in 1-2 range.
2. Do you think phosphates are the root cause? I'm already working on it.
- what else am I missing?
Good possibility, I had the same carpet algae when my lights were set to highyour light it may be set too strong right now
It factually is also part of it. Its not just phosphates, there some chemical imbalances going on as well. id stop the red sea loyalty. There is no reason and they dont have the best long term reputationits more likely the phosphate, and pH
With this right here, there is no way you have low nitrates and phosphates. I dont need test kits to figure this out.I feed them TDO 3 times a day plus 2 cubes of mysis.
this is possible evidence your intensity is set to highWith regards to corals, I had a huge polyp bailout in September
I appreciate your willingness to help.Just trying to help you understand why your corals are deteriorating quickly. If you are satisfied with lights and flow that only leaves water parameters and available nutrients. Your corals lack nitrates and your phosphate is slightly elevated. This is why new LPS corals struggle.
Yes, I doubt its what you really have. many test kits suck and give you information with little value- is 0.35 phosphate too bad?
Yes and no, I see you have coralline algae, which a tank plagued with low PH does not always get like you have, which is a positive sign. Id still try and fix this with major water changes.- is pH a problem?
Yes it cancan high Mg cause these troubles?
You are correct here. Its absurd and just not true. I have no detectable nitrates and phosphates and have amazing color and growth. This is a common theme that has been abused the last 5 years and spread like a rumor out of context. Only in the cleanest SPS tanks, and only the most minute small adjustments are made by the best people in the business of taking care of water, their water management skills are over what most in this hobby can do.I appreciate your willingness to help.
My point is, there are probably hundreds if not thousands of threads on this forum alone about the right levels of nitrates/phosphates/their ratios etc. There are successful tanks with nitrates as low as 0.5ppm as well as in the twenties and maybe higher. And that's why a bare statement like "Nitrate should be 5 to 10 for coral nutrition" without a supporting argument why this certain tank will benefit from having nitrates in the exact 5-10 range and not in the 1-2 range doesn't sound compelling, I'm sorry.
I measured about 120-130 PAR on the bottom. I tend to attribute the algae carpet to higher nitrates (10+) and phosphates (up to 0.6) a few months ago.Good possibility, I had the same carpet algae when my lights were set to high
I use the same salt and additives for my other 20-gallon tank, and there are no problems with coral growth. Although the other tank is 3 years old and I don't regularly track the numbers there.It factually is also part of it. Its not just phosphates, there some chemical imbalances going on as well. id stop the red sea loyalty. There is no reason and they dont have the best long term reputation
the measurement artificial, par does not always grow coral sometimes it cooks it. lots of ways for those to not be accurate, from one device to another, to testing conditions themselves. That is a lot of par for softies, thats good SPS par, and you have mainly fish in your tank. Turn that crap down.I measured about 120-130 PAR on the bottom.
what good has all that testing done you? Your failing and have been doing so for a long time. its time to get out of your own head, cause yours is just screwing things up.Note on test kits I use:
Ca - Red Sea + Salifert,
Alk - Red Sea,
Nitrates - Red Sea Nitrates Pro + Salifert,
Phosphates - Hanna phosphate, non-url (reagents expire in 2024),
pH - Apex (last calibrated a month ago).
I think I can trust every kit but phosphate, as I haven't tested the water with anything but Hanna.
In 30 years I have battled every kind of algae, you have the same stuff I just beat, and I only had it once, and water changes did not get rid of it. You could do 100% water changes, its not going anywhere. That stuff is brutal, and even fluconazole did not kill it right away, nor did major water changes. Not your baby butt small water changes, real 100g changes, before and after fluconazole, and once my water got perfect I started using vibrant.I tend to attribute the algae