What Do You Need 3d Designed & Printed (YouTube Channel)

philshel

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Just watched it, nice job. Would you share your Cura ABS settings for the CR10s? I have never been able to get curra to work well for me, I normally use S3D but would like to try cura again.
 
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ocpondpoacher

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@Bepis I just finished the controller holder. I need the width of the power strip and is the length of the controller the same as the width (1.3 ish inches)? If you could use a Millimeter that would be ideal. Check out the picture below. Something does not seem right about the size of the controller. It is nearly a cube. let me know if the picture looks right to you.
Screen Shot 2021-01-11 at 9.47.06 PM.png
 

Bepis

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@Bepis I just finished the controller holder. I need the width of the power strip and is the length of the controller the same as the width (1.3 ish inches)? If you could use a Millimeter that would be ideal. Check out the picture below. Something does not seem right about the size of the controller. It is nearly a cube. let me know if the picture looks right to you.
Screen Shot 2021-01-11 at 9.47.06 PM.png
I posted it already
 
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Just watched it, nice job. Would you share your Cura ABS settings for the CR10s? I have never been able to get curra to work well for me, I normally use S3D but would like to try cura again.
My Cura settings are very generic.
235-240c extruder temp.
50mm/s print speed. I usually never turn this up because it tends to cause other issues. I would rather just know it is going to print well every time then save 20 minutes.
Cooling turned off
5mm retraction & retract at the layer change
Brims on almost everything. Skirts sometimes when the model is really flat. I rarely use rafts.
100% infill because most of my models are thin-walled and won't function with infill. When I am not at 100% I will do 40-60% infill with cubic.

I just started using a.8mm nozzle and I wish I had switched to it a long time ago. The prints are coming out looking great and taking half the time. I would never utilize the build volume of the CR10 because the prints would take a week sometime. And when the print takes that long you are open up to a host of things that can go wrong. I had the power go out in my area one time and I was like 5 days into a 7-day print. I 100% recommend that you switch to a .8 nozzle

Last, I created a ****** enclosure for my printers by jamming foam sheet insulation into my garage shelving. If you don't already have an enclosure get a sheet of foam from home depot along with some acrylic. Your enclosed has to have a viewing window because you can lift the enclosure off before the print is finished. I've had some rapid cooling cause cracks in my prints because I checked them halfway.

Do you level the gantry? I just started doing this and my prints are turning out better and I have not had a fail since. I created these leveling blocks and just upload the designs to Thingiverse.

 

philshel

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My Cura settings are very generic.
235-240c extruder temp.
50mm/s print speed. I usually never turn this up because it tends to cause other issues. I would rather just know it is going to print well every time then save 20 minutes.
Cooling turned off
5mm retraction & retract at the layer change
Brims on almost everything. Skirts sometimes when the model is really flat. I rarely use rafts.
100% infill because most of my models are thin-walled and won't function with infill. When I am not at 100% I will do 40-60% infill with cubic.

I just started using a.8mm nozzle and I wish I had switched to it a long time ago. The prints are coming out looking great and taking half the time. I would never utilize the build volume of the CR10 because the prints would take a week sometime. And when the print takes that long you are open up to a host of things that can go wrong. I had the power go out in my area one time and I was like 5 days into a 7-day print. I 100% recommend that you switch to a .8 nozzle

Last, I created a ****** enclosure for my printers by jamming foam sheet insulation into my garage shelving. If you don't already have an enclosure get a sheet of foam from home depot along with some acrylic. Your enclosed has to have a viewing window because you can lift the enclosure off before the print is finished. I've had some rapid cooling cause cracks in my prints because I checked them halfway.

Do you level the gantry? I just started doing this and my prints are turning out better and I have not had a fail since. I created these leveling blocks and just upload the designs to Thingiverse.


Hmm, yes they are pretty "generic". I run a fairly well modded CR10s. It's in an encloser and I have no issues when using S3D but Cura is always ugly. Must be just be my luck. I need to just play with it, but I always "need" the part I'm making yesterday.
I used a set of 123 blocks to level the carriage and run a z axis timing belt mod to sync the lead screws. I do sometimes use a .6 or .8 nozzle if I don't care about the surface finish, that and a volcano is probably the way these larger format printer should be set up. I've considered getting another smaller printer as I have never used the entire build volume but not sure I can justify it.
Anyway I look forward to your design tutorials as design/CAD is defiantly my week point(s).
 
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Hi Everyone,

So I might have gone a little overboard on this one. @Matt Miller asked me to make a Nero 3 anemone guard. He sent over the specs and this is what I created.
Screen Shot 2020-12-23 at 4.38.58 PM.png

Without the model in hand, it is hard to make sure the dimensions are accurate, and just as I suspended it did not fit. I needed a new wavemaker for one of my tanks so I figured I would pick up a Nero 3 so I can also dial in the measurements. Once I got the Nero 3 in my hands I went to town. Here the newest anemone guard design.
I am calling it the Neer-oh 3 Nem.
Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.15.54 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.16.33 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.27.26 PM.png

The design completely replaced the original cover.
IMG_1382.png IMG_1386.png

I have some additional Nero 3 mods that I am working on so stay tuned. Also, there will be a video to come on this one.

Mark
 

F i s h y

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Hi Everyone,

So I might have gone a little overboard on this one. @Matt Miller asked me to make a Nero 3 anemone guard. He sent over the specs and this is what I created.
Screen Shot 2020-12-23 at 4.38.58 PM.png

Without the model in hand, it is hard to make sure the dimensions are accurate, and just as I suspended it did not fit. I needed a new wavemaker for one of my tanks so I figured I would pick up a Nero 3 so I can also dial in the measurements. Once I got the Nero 3 in my hands I went to town. Here the newest anemone guard design.
I am calling it the Neer-oh 3 Nem.
Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.15.54 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.16.33 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.27.26 PM.png

The design completely replaced the original cover.
IMG_1382.png IMG_1386.png

I have some additional Nero 3 mods that I am working on so stay tuned. Also, there will be a video to come on this one.

Mark
Wow thats quite nice looking great job...
 

Matt Miller

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Hi Everyone,

So I might have gone a little overboard on this one. @Matt Miller asked me to make a Nero 3 anemone guard. He sent over the specs and this is what I created.
Screen Shot 2020-12-23 at 4.38.58 PM.png

Without the model in hand, it is hard to make sure the dimensions are accurate, and just as I suspended it did not fit. I needed a new wavemaker for one of my tanks so I figured I would pick up a Nero 3 so I can also dial in the measurements. Once I got the Nero 3 in my hands I went to town. Here the newest anemone guard design.
I am calling it the Neer-oh 3 Nem.
Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.15.54 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.16.33 PM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-16 at 4.27.26 PM.png

The design completely replaced the original cover.
IMG_1382.png IMG_1386.png

I have some additional Nero 3 mods that I am working on so stay tuned. Also, there will be a video to come on this one.

Mark
Wow! That looks great!
 

Acropora52

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That nero design is nice enough it makes me want to get a nero ;).

I remember there was an index of 3d print files somewhere but I can't seem to find it.

I saw the 25w uv holder. Do you have a file for the aqua uv 57 w?

Screenshot_20210117-193156.png
 
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ocpondpoacher

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How did you make it webbed like that?
Google/YouTubing that style now, subscribing for more.
The webbing is actually really easy to make. I outline it quickly in this video

Start with a body or faces in Meshmixer.
Click view (top menu) and turn on show wireframe
Select all and reduce the mesh multiple times until you have the structure spacing you would like for the final product. You can also remesh to the object if you don't like how the mesh structure is looking.
When you are happy with it then click EDIT > Make Pattern
Under pattern select Dual Edge and then just the thickness of the pattern.
I managed to capture most of what I am talking about in the image below.
Screen Shot 2021-01-17 at 7.23.13 PM.png
 
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ocpondpoacher

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That nero design is nice enough it makes me want to get a nero ;).

I remember there was an index of 3d print files somewhere but I can't seem to find it.

I saw the 25w uv holder. Do you have a file for the aqua uv 57 w?

Screenshot_20210117-193156.png
Here the link to the 25w holder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4700825

The specs that you posted are for the 25w. It looks like the only difference with the 57w is the length. 269-500x500.jpg

The 25w design should work just fine (assuming I got the model sizes correct - which I won't know till someone prints this thing). The top part snaps onto the tube just below the inlet T connection so if the 57w is longer it should still work.
Screen Shot 2020-12-28 at 7.57.08 PM.png
 
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ocpondpoacher

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thanks! I just ordered the sterilizer so i'll measure it and confirm once I get it. From what I remember, they were different diameters...
Please shoot over some of the measurements in Millimeters so I can confirm the size. This model is rather big so it could take some time and a decent amount of filament to print. It would be best to get it right the first time.
 
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ocpondpoacher

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Acropora52

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So it looks like those measurements are correct for the 57 w. The distance I'm getting between the two thicker portions is 165 mm (6.5") and the width appears to be 63.5 mm (2.5") I'm trying to mount it horizontally over my sump so it's easy to remove the bulb during changes. Do you think the current design will support the weight in that configuration?
 
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ocpondpoacher

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So it looks like those measurements are correct for the 57 w. The distance I'm getting between the two thicker portions is 165 mm (6.5") and the width appears to be 63.5 mm (2.5") I'm trying to mount it horizontally over my sump so it's easy to remove the bulb during changes. Do you think the current design will support the weight in that configuration?
Hmmm, there is only one way to find out. I guess I didn't really think about the weight the bracket would have to hold. The design allows for 3 mounting screws which should be more than enough to hold the weight. I don't think you will need 100% infill. You can probably get away with 40-60% with 4 outer walls and cubic infill.
 
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ocpondpoacher

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Calling all Fluval Evo 13.5 owners. I am designing some media basket for the right and middle rear chambers. Here what I came up with. They still need some more parts but here is where you can find the designs. If anyone does print these I need to know how they fit before I start working on any of the other parts.


F5A5B78F-C659-42B5-8024-F5CD4178F050.JPG 0827D0F9-DC4B-49D8-AE9A-5D9C440DF103 2.JPG Screen Shot 2021-01-23 at 1.27.43 AM.png Screen Shot 2021-01-23 at 1.20.09 AM.png
 
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