Waterbox Marine AIO 40.2 Build (by ingchr1)

[ingchr1]

Thanks for the quick reply. just one more question, Do you have any recent pictures of your tank and setup?

Long over due, but here are some photos.

While the tank was cycling I relocated it from the dining room to the living room. Where I had it in the dining room the floor was too springy, it moved way too much for my liking when the kids ran by.

Coral: Favia, Green Star Polyp, Xenia, Ricordia Florida, Goniopora and Galaxea
Fish: Banggai Cardinal and Royal Gramma
CUC: Various snails and a conch

I had three Banggai, but two died two weeks after they went in the display from quarantine. That was two months ago, not sure why they died. I also had a Solarance Wrasse that did not make it through QT. Pretty sure it was flukes that got him (https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/issue-with-wrasse.617621/). That was a month and a half ago, and I'm still battling the flukes. Currently treating the tank with Prazi for them. Hopefully this round gets it done and they are not Prazi resistant.

 

[ingchr1]

Here is how I programmed the P4 to turn off one of the return pumps, skimmer and ATO on a low level in the return chamber. The most likely cause of low level (other than not filling the ATO reservoir) is going to be some type of blockage reducing flow through the chambers. The settings also delay the restart of the skimmer and ATO for five minutes upon resetting the low level alarm. Since I also have the skimmer and ATO restart delayed five minutes following maintenance mode, I needed to use programable logic to provide both functions. The time delays allow for levels to return to normal upon restart of any pumps that may have been off.

Level Sensor Settings
The settings are in the blue lines (Control Circuit 1).

The function (State) is set to Fill Water and inverted. When the sensor is covered any functions assigned to Fill Water 1 will stay on, logic state (1).

I have Reset Error Automatically unchecked, preventing the pump from cycling on and off. This could happen if the reason for the low level has not been cleared. The pump would turn on, drawing level back down, then tripping again, and just keep repeating. The alarm is manually cleared by logging in to the P4 and selecting Reset Error, under States.

Note: When the sensor is set for Leakage Detection the Max on-time is ignored.

Programmable Logic
G1 and G2 create five minute timers after maintenance mode is turned off. The logic state remains (1) for five minutes after Maintenance Mode is turned off, then it goes to (0). I have Maintenance 1 programmed to turn off equipment for performing a water change and Maintenance 2 programmed to turn off equipment for performing work in the rear chambers. Each of those maintenance modes turn off the skimmer. Maintenance mode 2 also turns off the ATO.

G4 combines G1 and G2 to create the time delay when either Maintenance Mode is turned off. The logic needs to be inverted since we want a logic (1) to turn on the skimmer, after five minutes.

G3 creates a five minute timer after Fill Water 1 is activated. Fill Water 1 is active when there is not a low level alarm.

G5 combines G3 and G4 to create the five minute time delay for turning on the skimmer following Maintenance Mode or clearing the Low Level Alarm.

G8 combines G2 and G3 to create the five minute time delay for turning on the ATO following Maintenance Mode 2 (rear chamber maintenance) or clearing the Low Level Alarm.

Powerbar Settings

The pump I have turning off (S2) just needs to be set to Fill Water 1. If level goes low the pump turns off. It will come back on when the Low Level Alarm is reset in the P4.

The skimmer (S4) is set to Programmable Logic 5.

The ATO (S10) is set to Programmable Logic 8.

(Edited twice as I revised my programmable logic)

Update - I decided to not have anything happen on a low level in the return chamber. My thought is that it's not a very likely scenario. It's probably more likely for the sensor to fail causing an unnecessary false response. I still have the sensor set to alarm, but I may move it to my ATO reservoir instead. I haven't let it run dry yet, but it's came close a couple of times.

 

[ingchr1]

I've also added some additional protection for the temperature indication reading a false low value. If this happens the heaters will be on trying to restore temperature to nominal, but actual temperature is going to be hotter than indicated and possibly overheat the tank.

I'm not even sure if this is possible or if the indication is more likely to just fail to an open value. I did a test where I disconnected the temperature probe and the heaters did turn off on the loss of the value.

The more likely scenario where this would come into play is if the temperature probe became no longer submerged in the water. It would end up reading ambient temperature, which in most cases is lower than tank temperature.

I created a virtual probe (Temperature 2) and made the setting for the low alarm to be 76.0F. The upper alarm does not matter as the heaters would be turned off by that point under normal control (Temperature 1).

I then use that alarm in programmable logic for heater control. If the alarm comes in for the virtual probe, the heaters will turn off.

Deactivate control in the Temperature 1 alarm settings cannot be used as this would also deactivate control of PropellerBreeze I have tied to that sensor. For Temperature 1 I have the low alarm at 77.1F, so this would also allow for some margin for larger temperature swings. It would probably take special circumstances and time for the tank to get down to 76F on its own with the heaters working. The alarm at 77F should give me time to react as well. If the tank did get that low on it's own, I could just change the settings in the P4 for the heaters to be on.

I'm also protected from overheating by the internal thermostats on the heaters, but we know that those can and do fail.

Temperature 1

Temperature 2 (Virtual Probe)

Programable Logic (G6 and G7)

Powerbar (S1 and s6)

Update - I change this to have the protection applied to the backup heater only. I use heaters with internal thermostats so those should provide protection for this type of scenario. This was an added second layer of protection, if the heaters thermostat was to fail. Doing it this way I will still have one functioning heater. My heaters are closely sized to what's needed, so if the thermostat on that heater fails the tank shouldn't get too hot. I may even see if I can go to a lower wattage heater, to provide more margin. Right now I use 125W, thinking of trying 100W. Will see the trend over the winter as we keep the house at 64F when no one is home and at night. If the primary can maintain without the help of the backup (or with minimal help) then I'll go with the 100W.

 

[EastCoastScaping]

Im excited to watch this thread. I was thinking of buying a marine aio 30.2. I was also curous where you got your rocks from? I saw on waterbox.com that they had marcos rocks kits for sale for each size tank.

 

[ingchr1]

Im excited to watch this thread. I was thinking of buying a marine aio 30.2. I was also curous where you got your rocks from? I saw on waterbox.com that they had marcos rocks kits for sale for each size tank.

Thank you

I got my rocks directly from Marcorocks, but they no longer sell them direct. You have to go to one of their retailers now, like Waterbox. They had kits and the one I used was the Shelfscape 30. I also got a couple of extra pieces from BRS.

 

[ingchr1]

I turned one of the chambers into an algea turf scrubber (ATS). I used 1/16" black ABS, 7 mesh plastic canvas and Tunze Refugium Light. The ABS I heated with a heat gun and bent it around a 2x4. I cut the ABS using tin snips.

Interested in seeing how it works out. Not sure what other options there would be out there for an AIO.

I currently have it scheduled to run opposite of my lighting, 10PM to 1030AM.

 

[ingchr1]

I swapped out one of my Tunze 6040 for a Tunze 6095 to get a wider flow pattern. While the 6040 has a diffuser, I still found the flow to be a bit narrow. The 6040 gives a nice wave action pointing towards the surface with diffuser while the 6095 gives wider flow across the tank. I have the 6040 and 6095 in alternate pulse on/off mode.

 

[TheWB]

I turned one of the chambers into an algea turf scrubber (ATS). I used 1/16" black ABS, 7 mesh plastic canvas and Tunze Refugium Light. The ABS I heated with a heat gun and bent it around a 2x4. I cut the ABS using tin snips.

Interested in seeing how it works out. Not sure what other options there would be out there for an AIO.

I currently have it scheduled to run opposite of my lighting, 10PM to 1030AM.

This seems like a really cool idea, how’s it working so far?

 

[ingchr1]

This seems like a really cool idea, how’s it working so far?

Algea is starting to grow on it.

Right I'm trying to get rid of dino, so I'm not even sure if I should be running it at the moment though.

 

[TheWB]

Algea is starting to grow on it.

Right I'm trying to get rid of dino, so I'm not even sure if I should be running it at the moment though.

Yeah, I’m no expert but I think you do need to keep a detectable level of nitrates and phosphates to help with battling Dino’s. Sorry to hear that you have them, I’m dealing with an algae outbreak right now as well but it’s not Dino’s thank goodness. I really like your algae scrubber design, I may have to borrow the idea.

 

[ingchr1]

Yeah, I’m no expert but I think you do need to keep a detectable level of nitrates and phosphates to help with battling Dino’s. Sorry to hear that you have them, I’m dealing with an algae outbreak right now as well but it’s not Dino’s thank goodness. I really like your algae scrubber design, I may have to borrow the idea.

Thank you, my thinking on the ATS is to give algae a place to grow outside of the display. Have it there as a part of the ecosystem.

I've been dosing NeoPhos and NeoNitro to bring up nitrate and phosphate. I've gotten nitrate to 1ppm, but phosphate has remained 0.0. The first dose of NeoPhos did get PO4 levels up, but now they are back at zero. Been there for a week with nearly daily dosing of the NeoPhos.

I've also been dosing Vibrant weekly.

I started a lights out today. When I got home the sand bed has pretty much completely cleared up of any dino. Surprised since it was there this morning. I'm going to keep the lights out for another day, then run a reduced schedule. Probably keep the ATS light off for now as well. The tank is currently fishless, but I have been feeding once a day. I feed LRS nano or V2O spirulina, usually the LRS. I also add Reef-Roids daily. Phyto once or twice a week.

I did have the dino cleared up a couple of weeks ago but it came back. Not sure what caused their return. I added the ATS on 11/30 and started dosing the NeoPhos and NeoNitro on 12/10. The dino started back somewhere around the time I started dosing NeoPhos and NeoNitro. I started dosing since both NO3 and PO4 were zero, I was concerned the dino would come back.

I've been dealing with the dino since the beginning of November. Not really discouraged by it though. It did however takeout a Xenia.

I've also been siphoning through a filter sock and pumping the water back into the tank when the dino was building up too much.

 

[TheWB]

Thank you, my thinking on the ATS is to give algae a place to grow outside of the display. Have it there as a part of the ecosystem.

I've been dosing NeoPhos and NeoNitro to bring up nitrate and phosphate. I've gotten nitrate to 1ppm, but phosphate has remained 0.0. The first dose of NeoPhos did get PO4 levels up, but now they are back at zero. Been there for a week with nearly daily dosing of the NeoPhos.

I've also been dosing Vibrant weekly.

I started a lights out today. When I got home the sand bed has pretty much completely cleared up of any dino. Surprised since it was there this morning. I'm going to keep the lights out for another day, then run a reduced schedule. Probably keep the ATS light off for now as well. The tank is currently fishless, but I have been feeding once a day. I feed LRS nano or V2O spirulina, usually the LRS. I also add Reef-Roids daily. Phyto once or twice a week.

I did have the dino cleared up a couple of weeks ago but it came back. Not sure what caused their return. I added the ATS on 11/30 and started dosing the NeoPhos and NeoNitro on 12/10. The dino started back somewhere around the time I started dosing NeoPhos and NeoNitro. I started dosing since both NO3 and PO4 were zero, I was concerned the dino would come back.

I've been dealing with the dino since the beginning of November. Not really discouraged by it though. It did however takeout a Xenia.

I've also been siphoning through a filter sock and pumping the water back into the tank when the dino was building up too much.

Seems like you’ve got a plan. I’m getting a canister filter to do the same sort of cleaning/water recycling that you’re doing with the syphon and bucket. I figured it would be good for cleaning the gravel and vacuuming out my rear sump chambers as well. I’m going to put the return through a filter sock as a last line of defense against anything that makes it through the filter. I decided on the canister filter because I can pack it with whatever media or filter pads/floss that I want and I can run it for as long as I want to without necessarily having to babysit it. I’m thinking of it as sort of an aquarium shop vac.

 

[ingchr1]

It looks like the dino is all cleared up again. I turned the lights back on on Christmas day (after two days out), but there was still minor signs of it. I did another two day lights out and that appears to have cleared it all up. NO3 is 1-3 PPM and PO4 is 0.04 PPM. I also put my skimmer cup back on, which had been off for the last month or so.

Here are some photos of the coral in the tank. I plan on adding some fish in the next day or so.

 

[ingchr1]

Update - I change this to have the protection applied to the backup heater only. I use heaters with internal thermostats so those should provide protection for this type of scenario. This was an added second layer of protection, if the heaters thermostat was to fail. Doing it this way I will still have one functioning heater. My heaters are closely sized to what's needed, so if the thermostat on that heater fails the tank shouldn't get too hot. I may even see if I can go to a lower wattage heater, to provide more margin. Right now I use 125W, thinking of trying 100W. Will see the trend over the winter as we keep the house at 64F when no one is home and at night. If the primary can maintain without the help of the backup (or with minimal help) then I'll go with the 100W.

So what I've done is changed the referenced protection over to the primary heater and changed the backup heater to 50W. I also made the initial state of the backup heater outlet to ON. This way I will still have heat should the primary heater fail or the controller itself.

The 50W will ensure the tank still has heat, give me time to respond, and also minimize the chance of overheating should the internal thermostat also fail on it.

The initial states of all of my other equipment (except the ATS light) is also ON. The tank should keep running in the unlikely event of a controller failure.

 

[ingchr1]

Picked up some fish yesterday (Firefish, Spot Tail Blenny, Chalk Bass and Possum Wrasse). All are doing well. Within a couple of hours they seamed to be right at home in the tank. They are all individually intersting.

 

[Wokiweim]

i have a similar setup. Quick question, do you have a media sponge under your Tunze Skimmer?

 

[ingchr1]

i have a similar setup. Quick question, do you have a media sponge under your Tunze Skimmer?

I do not.

 

[ingchr1]

Here is my water station. I have a RO/DI unit from Air, Water & Ice. It's their Hurricane Dual Home Reef 75GPD. I've actually had the unit for several years as I use RO for home brewing. I bought this one with the DI knowing I was going to have a tank down the road.

For water containers I'm using 8 gallon buckets from my local home brew store. They comfortably hold 5 gallons or so. I plan on keeping one filled with DI and the other with saltwater. I'm also using a old heater and power head (previously used for reverse flow under gravel) to mix the saltwater. The water source is from a y-adapter at the spigot for the washing machine.

Something I found out with the bucket I'm using is that the volume markings are off. When doing a water change I drain to a Home Depot bucket that I marked with volume markings using a measured gallon of water. I was always coming up shorter on refill water. For example, I would drain 4 gallons to the Home Depot bucket but need to add over four per the markings on the BSG bucket. The only marking on the BSG bucket that is correct is the 1 gallon. It also states it's 7.8 gallons, but it's actually only 6.8 gallons. The referenced 6 gallon mark is also off.

 

[ingchr1]

Fish update:

I added the fish directly to the tank on 1/2, no quarantine. On 1/11 I started to notice spots on the Firefish. The other fish didn't have any visible spots, but the Chalk Bass and Blenny were flashing. The Blenny was also swimming into the powerhead flow. I was concerned this may be a sign of velvet, as posts on the forum indicate that swimming into powerhead flow is a behavior specific to velvet. But I also thought the fish my have just been picking off algae from the powerhead.

I decided it best to setup the QT and transfer the fish to it. On 1/12 I transferred the Firefish and Blenny to QT. They were easy to catch. The Chalk Bass and Possum Wrasse on the other hand were quit a challenge. After several days of trying to catch them, I decided to just drain the tank down to get them. This was on 1/19.

My QT is 10 gallons, Seachem Tidal HOB with Matrix, Tetra Whisper air pump, 100W Aqueon Pro heater backed up by a Cobalt Neostat, ground probe, JW thermometer and Seachem ammonia alert badge.

I'm using crushed coral as a substrate, saved from when I had a fish only tank 20 years ago. I also had two pieces of tuffa in there, also from 20 years ago. I ended up removing the tuffa though. I could not maintain copper concentration with it in there. Once I removed it, the copper concentration has remained constant. I'm using Cupramine targeting 0.45 to 0.55PPM, using a Hanna Checker. The past week or so concentration has measured 0.50 to 0.55

Since I removed the tuffa, the fish needed some structure. So I went to the fish store and grabbed a couple of plastic decorations. The fish seam to like them. The Wrasse swims through the fake reef and the Blenny perches on it. When I just had the tuffa in there the Wrasse had no place to swim though, a behavior I noticed in the DT. In the DT the Wrasse was constantly swimming through the rock structure. With just the tuffa in there the Wrasse also had no place to sleep. The fish would float at the top tucked into the HOB at night. The first few nights I thought the fish may have been dying, but I guess he was just playing possum. The firefish sleeps in the plane. I'm not quite sure where the Chalk Bass sleeps. Along with the tuffa I also had a piece of PVC elbow in there. None of the fish bothered with it, so I removed that as well.

The fish have been at therapeutic copper since 1/30. All seam to be doing ok.

I plan on running Prazi after the copper, as a couple of flukes came of the Blenny during freshwater dip. All fish got freshwater dip upon removal from DT.

In the end I'm gussing it was ich and not velvet. I'm not sure if the fish came with it or if it was from amphipods and copepods I added on 1/8.

Looking forward to getting them all back into the DT.

Here's the QT:

Here it was with the tuffa:

 

[suvio blue]

Following along in your thread, just got my 40.2 on Tuesday, came across this, I’m assuming they just started making these properly sized for the tank in case you were interested. Tank looks great BTW!

inTank Filter Floss Holder for Waterbox Marine AIO 28.2 | AIO 30.2 | AIO 35.2 | AIO 40.2 | AIO 50.3

inTank Filter Floss holders are upgrades to expensive and dirty branded filter socks. Create easier and better filtration.

intankaquatics.com