Water Changes

Daniel@R2R

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Yes, I agree, it’s a lot of fish. I’m sure there are many folks out there with a similar type of scenario. So you think fewer larger water changes would work better.. how large would you say and how often? Due to my schedule and my setup with the refugien I thought smaller 15 gallon (10%) would work better every few days. I think there is someone on here (vette guy) that does something similar to this and he has a huge bioload, just with a larger tank..
Perhaps look into small daily automatic water changes. Maybe start with 2-3% changes to bring nutrients in line and then stabilize at whatever amount helps you keep levels where you want them. IME these help with stability. Randy Holmes-Farley wrote a helpful article comparing this method to more typical periodic water changes.
 

00W

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Good evening all, my tank specifications are below:

Total System Water Volume: 164 Gallons
Display Tank Water Volume: 132 Gallons
Dimensions: 59.1“L x 25.6“W x 23.6“H

I have about 25 Fish. A few tangs and angel
Fish. My nitrates are at about 50, due to the bioload/feeding. I’m currently dosing Red Sea’s nitrate removal and I have some chemi pure elite in the sump. What would you suggest I do to remove nitrates/phosphates consistently, to get them down to 10? I’m currently doing a 10 gallon water change every other day. The majority of my corals are LPS, they seem to be doing well and the fish seem extremely happy. My wife and I feed lots of nori and only frozen food.

Thank you in advance for your help, guidance and consideration..
Ok so I'll put this out there.
You mentioned everyone/thing is happy so your tank might just like sitting where it is.
Love to see pictures!!
However, if you're having algae issues or just want to bring these values down you can:
Have a refugium.
Larger skimmer.
Carbon dose.
Run a reactor with gfo, x nitrate or the like.
Sulphur denitrator.
Algae scrubber/reactor.
Biopellets.
Lots of options.
Lots of information on R2R about all of these.
We're here to help with any you choose.
I feed heavy and make a lot of waste.
My nitrates were in the 60's,phosphate don't even know how high.
What worked for me was 2 50 percent water changes, then changing 10 percent every day for a week.
Bought a fantastic oversized skimmer and now change 15 to 20 percent every week.
I'm down to 15 nitrate.
It was work getting there but I wasn't going to stop feeding so much.
It's finally consistent with those numbers.
I tried a fuge which never made it but all my mangroves are happy and the tank is where I want it.
I have no idea if this helps you or not but I just needed to say all this and keep it positive.
Best of luck!
Keep posting/asking questions.
Joel
 

KrisReef

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Good evening all, my tank specifications are below:

Total System Water Volume: 164 Gallons
Display Tank Water Volume: 132 Gallons
Dimensions: 59.1“L x 25.6“W x 23.6“H

I have about 25 Fish. A few tangs and angel
Fish. My nitrates are at about 50, due to the bioload/feeding. I’m currently dosing Red Sea’s nitrate removal and I have some chemi pure elite in the sump. What would you suggest I do to remove nitrates/phosphates consistently, to get them down to 10? I’m currently doing a 10 gallon water change every other day. The majority of my corals are LPS, they seem to be doing well and the fish seem extremely happy. My wife and I feed lots of nori and only frozen food.

Thank you in advance for your help, guidance and consideration..
How long has the tank been set up?
If the fish are happy and the corals are happy trying to get nitrates down while still feeding heavy may be a difficult task.

Without feeding, after 10 water changes of 10 gallons you will be at about 26 ppm nitrates, (If I did the math correctly?) 154/164 X 50ppm
47ppm
44
41
38
36
34
32
30
28
26

30 gallon water changes 134/164 X 50 (repeated 3 times without feeding)
41ppm
33
27

would get you to 27 ppm after only 90 gallons of water and 3-30 gallon changes.

So depending on how fast you feel you need to get to 10, this should give you and idea of how much water you and how long it will take depending upon the amount of gallons you change each time, again without accounting for feeding additions.

If the corals and fish are happy, I would encourage you to go slowly because they might not be happy with really low numbers and 50 nitrates isn't low but its not horrible either, ime.

HTH.
 

Magic031707

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Good evening all, my tank specifications are below:

Total System Water Volume: 164 Gallons
Display Tank Water Volume: 132 Gallons
Dimensions: 59.1“L x 25.6“W x 23.6“H

I have about 25 Fish. A few tangs and angel
Fish. My nitrates are at about 50, due to the bioload/feeding. I’m currently dosing Red Sea’s nitrate removal and I have some chemi pure elite in the sump. What would you suggest I do to remove nitrates/phosphates consistently, to get them down to 10? I’m currently doing a 10 gallon water change every other day. The majority of my corals are LPS, they seem to be doing well and the fish seem extremely happy. My wife and I feed lots of nori and only frozen food.

Thank you in advance for your help, guidance and consideration..
Not trying to be mean, but what did you expect having 25 fish in that size tank? Your bioload is very high. I only have 12 fish and just ordered my final 3 for my 250 gallon. What size skimmer you have? IMO, it's only going to get worse as the fish grow, requiring more food, creating more waste.
 

VintageReefer

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A large algae scrubber in the sump would probably have the greatest impact for you with the least amount of work. They directly consume nitrate and phosphate from the water and you can use the algae it grows to feed the tangs

Look into Santa Monica they make excellent units and provide great customer support. I have 2 Santa Monica scrubbers and am very happy with both, and I know others here happy with them also.

Ice cap makes them also and I have heard good things about it them

Compare both brands models that are sized for your tanks needs and pick what you like best
 

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A large algae scrubber in the sump would probably have the greatest impact for you with the least amount of work. They directly consume nitrate and phosphate from the water and you can use the algae it grows to feed the tangs

Look into Santa Monica they make excellent units and provide great customer support. I have 2 Santa Monica scrubbers and am very happy with both, and I know others here happy with them also.

Ice cap makes them also and I have heard good things about it them

Compare both brands models that are sized for your tanks needs and pick what you like best

A biopellet reactor would be equally as little work too ime.
 

vadryn

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Some thoughts: If you are not seeing issues with your coral with Nitrates at 50, going all the way to 10 might just be unnecessary. There are many that would argue 20-30 are great. Nobody knows what your tank's magic number is for nitrates. Don't discount the eyeball test to hit a number.

I would be concerned about the effort of having to do WC every couple days, even if it's small. There will be times when keeping up with that schedule will get hard. I would consider finding a way to get to weekly at the most, bi-weekly if you can... unless you automate it with dosing pumps and do a couple gallons a day, as suggested ^^ . Some recent studies have shown consistent WC will put a hard ceiling on how high your nutrients can rise. - Sidenote: Keep your eyes open for things that make your WC easier and/or faster. You know the part of the WC you like the least... look to remedy that.

If you have a good protien skimmer, carbon dosing could be one of the easiest and least instrusive methods. I started vodka dosing in February and am still getting it dialed in and balanced with my chaeto refugium, but I feed heavy and it's done great. Large bottle of vodka is what, $12 and lasts for months. a Quart jar, plastic lid with a hole drilled and a Kamoer dosing pump and you are set for < $100.
 

slayerhellfire

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Good evening all, my tank specifications are below:

Total System Water Volume: 164 Gallons
Display Tank Water Volume: 132 Gallons
Dimensions: 59.1“L x 25.6“W x 23.6“H

I have about 25 Fish. A few tangs and angel
Fish. My nitrates are at about 50, due to the bioload/feeding. I’m currently dosing Red Sea’s nitrate removal and I have some chemi pure elite in the sump. What would you suggest I do to remove nitrates/phosphates consistently, to get them down to 10? I’m currently doing a 10 gallon water change every other day. The majority of my corals are LPS, they seem to be doing well and the fish seem extremely happy. My wife and I feed lots of nori and only frozen food.

Thank you in advance for your help, guidance and consideration..
if things are happy why fix anything? Its about stablilty not chasing numbers I would say let it ride if its not causing a issue
 
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southeastfishaddict

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if things are happy why fix anything? Its about stablilty not chasing numbers I would say let it ride if its not causing a issue
I agree, but when the local fish store noticed my high numbers they instructed me to get the nitrates down prior to adding more coral. I just don’t want it getting out of control and will do whatever it takes to keep things in the safe zone. I do have a bunch of fish and feed a few times a day..
 
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southeastfishaddict

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Some thoughts: If you are not seeing issues with your coral with Nitrates at 50, going all the way to 10 might just be unnecessary. There are many that would argue 20-30 are great. Nobody knows what your tank's magic number is for nitrates. Don't discount the eyeball test to hit a number.

I would be concerned about the effort of having to do WC every couple days, even if it's small. There will be times when keeping up with that schedule will get hard. I would consider finding a way to get to weekly at the most, bi-weekly if you can... unless you automate it with dosing pumps and do a couple gallons a day, as suggested ^^ . Some recent studies have shown consistent WC will put a hard ceiling on how high your nutrients can rise. - Sidenote: Keep your eyes open for things that make your WC easier and/or faster. You know the part of the WC you like the least... look to remedy that.

If you have a good protien skimmer, carbon dosing could be one of the easiest and least instrusive methods. I started vodka dosing in February and am still getting it dialed in and balanced with my chaeto refugium, but I feed heavy and it's done great. Large bottle of vodka is what, $12 and lasts for months. a Quart jar, plastic lid with a hole drilled and a Kamoer dosing pump and you are set for < $100.
Thank you for the input, it’s very much appreciated. I had a couple of lps corals die while I was on vacation. I did a test at the local fish store and they noticed the high nitrates, so they recommended that I get them down as soon as possible, and prior to adding anymore coral. I currently dose Red Sea no3po4 x and I also have some chemipure elite in the sump pump. The Red Sea tank, came with a large skimmer. I don’t mind doing smaller constant water changes. I can do 15 gallons in the morning (10%) prior to going to work and another 15 gallons in the evening (10%) if necessary. I just want to keep everything alive and thriving. I really like this hobby and it is a great stress reliever for my family & I.



IMG_1270.png
 

sixty_reefer

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Not sure if it was mentioned earlier but do you have a roller filter fitted in by any chance? What is your current mechanical filtration like?
 

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Good evening all, my tank specifications are below:

Total System Water Volume: 164 Gallons
Display Tank Water Volume: 132 Gallons
Dimensions: 59.1“L x 25.6“W x 23.6“H

I have about 25 Fish. A few tangs and angel
Fish. My nitrates are at about 50, due to the bioload/feeding. I’m currently dosing Red Sea’s nitrate removal and I have some chemi pure elite in the sump. What would you suggest I do to remove nitrates/phosphates consistently, to get them down to 10? I’m currently doing a 10 gallon water change every other day. The majority of my corals are LPS, they seem to be doing well and the fish seem extremely happy. My wife and I feed lots of nori and only frozen food.

Thank you in advance for your help, guidance and consideration..
Try and stay away from adding those heavy chemicals, stick to water changes, skimmer, refugium, turf scrubbers, and steady permeates.
 
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southeastfishaddict

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Not sure if it was mentioned earlier but do you have a roller filter fitted in by any chance? What is your current mechanical filtration like?
Here is what it has :
  • Professional REEF-SPEC sump, including:
    • Mechanical filtration media compartment complete with micron filters and filter cups
    • Adjustable height skimmer chamber
    • Bubble trap
    • Plug & play ready for ReefMat 500 or 1200 Auto Filter Roller (sold separately)
    • Additional chamber for chillers, controllers, or other equipment (on most models)
 

Fish Fan

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Here is what it has :
  • Professional REEF-SPEC sump, including:
    • Mechanical filtration media compartment complete with micron filters and filter cups
    • Adjustable height skimmer chamber
    • Bubble trap
    • Plug & play ready for ReefMat 500 or 1200 Auto Filter Roller (sold separately)
    • Additional chamber for chillers, controllers, or other equipment (on most models)
It looks like those are the specs of your sump, but do you have a protein skimmer installed in your sump? Did you get the optional fleece roller and install it?

Maybe a pic or two of your system would help us better help you.
 
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southeastfishaddict

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It looks like those are the specs of your sump, but do you have a protein skimmer installed in your sump? Did you get the optional fleece roller and install it?

Maybe a pic or two of your system would help us better help you.

yes, here are screenshots of what’s included :
 

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Greg B.

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I would start a refugium with a light that runs opposite of your photo period on your DT. Also a skimmer will help as well. I have one that's oversized for my tank and run it 3hrs on and 3hrs off repeated. If I run it nonstop it will wipe my nutrients in 5 days. I had a high nitrate issue back in April. I added the fuge and the skimmer and consistently sit at about 10-12 for nitrates. Gfo reactor will help as well.
 

Fish Fan

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yes, here are screenshots of what’s included :
Great! That's a nice looking system for sure :)

Here's just a few thoughts:
  • You do have a protein skimmer. These can be a bit fickle to tune. Have you looked into tweaking your skimmer? What does your skimmate look like? (frothy, watery, yellow, dark, etc.)
  • Ditto for your fleece roller - you have one, but maybe it's not 'rolling' quickly enough? Maybe someone who has one can help you make sure it's running right?
A refugium is something that you may have room for in your sump, but if you've not specifically set it up with at a minimum a dedicated light and some Chaetomorpha algae, then you don't have a refugium that will minimize nutrients in your tank at this point. This may be something to look into.

As others have mentioned, it does seem like kind of a high bioload, or maybe you're overfeeding? Fish ARE NOT as hungry as they will try to make you believe, and I tell my wife this absolutely EVERYDAY lol!!!

And if you're using a lot of frozen foods, some can be rinsed first to get rid of a lot of the nasty before going into your tank.

If you're still seeing high nitrates, then there are some other options that have already been mentioned here, such as (and in no order) bio pellets, algae scrubbers, carbon dosing, water changes, etc. All of these are just tools to help you get your nutrients down. What will work best for you is often personal preference and some personal experimentation.

The RedSea system you are running is a very popular choice. I'm sure others who own this system will be by to give first hand advice. And if you have not yet, I'd look for your exact system in the member tank forum. You can see how others run their tanks, what they keep, and how they are dealing with any issues:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/member-tanks.52/

For now, and in my less than expert opinion, I would suggest cutting back on feeding, and looking into how to tune your skimmer and roller, and keeping up on your water changes. I think that will go a long way.

I hope that helps!
 

Flame2hawk

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Get refrugium w. Chaeto and lights to maintain where you are as fish grow and call its a day and enjoy!
 

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Why are you so concerned with reducing if the tank is happy??


What type of food are you feeding


This is the root cause of your nitrates and phosphates

If you keep doing the same thing - feeding heavy - you will never reduce the nitrates and phosphates unless something can use them - I.e. start a refugium with macro algae

If you don’t have a nuisance algae problem and corals are happy I’d seriously stop stressing over water changes



Again can you tell me what you’re feeding the tank?
And is it possible to start a refugium up on your sump? Macro algae with use up the excess nutrients - mine does this to well
 

Reefing_addiction

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Also

I don’t take my LFS word as gospel

Plenty of people run high nitrates

This should not discourage you from adding corals

@fishguy242 will back me on the high nitrates thing!! lol

The key to a happy reef is consistency
 

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