The Modified Black Box Thread

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Well this looks like a mess? For some reason this forum didn't format how I wanted it to look?
 
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reeferfoxx

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Actually yes.... Since you offered. :)
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.

1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%

Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.

I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.

Again... Thank you SO much!
Some Mars Aqua measurements at your request: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-modified-black-box-thread.283942/page-5#post-3730693

@saltyfilmfolks
 

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Well this looks like a mess? For some reason this forum didn't format how I wanted it to look?
Looks fine on the desktop, havent checked the phone..... W/B 100% (50/50)-- 830- 69%- 61,000 this is a 1to1 ratio at 69%?
Did you do a 1:1 at 100% the only reason I ask is I think its a good reference to what the total power of the lamp is.
This is actually a higher Par/lux than I guessed. that's a 73 I belive


A Note for those following along, the Par/lux ratio is an indicator of the intensity to par efficiency of a light. An ati c+ is in the range of 35,, a Radium MH is 50, as a conversion, so less brightness and more par.
So by testing this the lower intensity is less wattage and power used for more par and therefore better spectrum..
 
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W/B 100% (50/50)-- 830- 69%- 61,000 this is a 1to1 ratio at 69%?

Looks fine on the desktop, havent checked the phone..... W/B 100% (50/50)-- 830- 69%- 61,000 this is a 1to1 ratio at 69%?
Did you do a 1:1 at 100% the only reason I ask is I think its a good reference to what the total power of the lamp is.
This is actually a higher Par/lux than I guessed. that's a 73 I belive
It's difficult to say exactly. The lux meter ranged between 60k and 61k and the par meter between 800 and 830 with a flick of the cable. I would go with 75 to be safe. Because the LUX meter has a broad range opposed to the seneye sensor. So 100%/100% or 50/50 @ 100% 12" up would be equal to 800 par or 60,000lx with a conversion of 75?
 

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Dkh: 13dkh

It's difficult to say exactly. The lux meter ranged between 60k and 61k and the par meter between 800 and 830 with a flick of the cable. I would go with 75 to be safe. Because the LUX meter has a broad range opposed to the seneye sensor. So 100%/100% or 50/50 @ 100% 12" up would be equal to 800 par or 60,000lx with a conversion of 75?

Oh and yes, that would be 69% of usable radiation of PAR. So maybe 800*.69=552 par? I'd hate for the conversion to 108...lol
Ah 69% 0f the seney Pur. Got it.

But the full lux at 12in and 1:1 was 60,000 and a par of 800
 
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Response from Seneye about Lux..

"Seneye is designed to measure light directly and underwater where as your phone and the regular lux meter, which has a cosine corrector, will measure the ambient, terrestrial lighting.


In an aquarium adding a cosine filter may introduce light from placing you don't want.


In our view a narrow angle light sensor will allow us to look at light sources with more accuracy and directional control.


Kind regards"
 

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Response from Seneye about Lux..

"Seneye is designed to measure light directly and underwater where as your phone and the regular lux meter, which has a cosine corrector, will measure the ambient, terrestrial lighting.


In an aquarium adding a cosine filter may introduce light from placing you don't want.


In our view a narrow angle light sensor will allow us to look at light sources with more accuracy and directional control.


Kind regards"
I don't know about much of that but the seneye is supposed to have a narrow field of vision. I have yet to get that tested and want to. I have a very bright led flashlight with a narrow beam to test it out
 

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Response from Seneye about Lux..

"Seneye is designed to measure light directly and underwater where as your phone and the regular lux meter, which has a cosine corrector, will measure the ambient, terrestrial lighting.


In an aquarium adding a cosine filter may introduce light from placing you don't want.


In our view a narrow angle light sensor will allow us to look at light sources with more accuracy and directional control.


Kind regards"
Ill digest that.I have two corrected attachments, one a ball one a disk on my meter and can use none as well.(it does change calibration)/ hmm i have a few with no disk or ball as well.

My first thought it, if it only sees a very narrow view(applies to a par meter as well) it doesn't read "ambient" light so it therefore does not read the actual amount of light a coral gets. just what is there at the top, so in the middle of a 48in tank with t5 you get light from the far left and right, not just from the top.


And fwiw, I color temped the four reef lights working around the house right now. All are "1:1 ratios. Only the current orbit gave me a reading without error. It read 20,000k, on the nose
 
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Decided to replace the two 390nm(UV) chips with 450nm(blue). They were due for a change out but didn't want to risk bleaching. Here are some macro shots.
6-8 months of use...
20170605_210104.jpg
20170605_210134.jpg
20170605_210227.jpg
 

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The higher the number the better? LOL Sort of like frames per second but not. What's the question?
Hahahaha. It's exactly FPS at a 180 degree shutter. Lol.
It's odd that his is doing it to him and no one else is.
I think the question would be what is the pulse at and does it vary with dimming. So did he just get unlucky? I haven't ever seen banding in still photos in leds save some projection units and moving lights.
 
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Hahahaha. It's exactly FPS at a 180 degree shutter. Lol.
It's odd that his is doing it to him and no one else is.
I think the question would be what is the pulse at and does it vary with dimming. So did he just get unlucky? I haven't ever seen banding in still photos in leds save some projection units and moving lights.
If it's electronically controlled, most likely the power supply. If a voltage meter shows connections to be fine, then it's the camera. My guess would the light fixture. Better to rent another camera to double check before changing lights.
 

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If it's electronically controlled, most likely the power supply. If a voltage meter shows connections to be fine, then it's the camera. My guess would the light fixture. Better to rent another camera to double check before changing lights.
Yea I'd clean the connections.
I've literally kicked a flickering light on set before to make it work.
 

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PWM frequencies - higher means more dimming resolution aka more precise dimming control :D. It is not necessarily better as at less than 5% differences, our eyes cannot really see the effects. Corals might see the differences more than us by the way.
 

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Decided to replace the two 390nm(UV) chips with 450nm(blue). They were due for a change out but didn't want to risk bleaching. Here are some macro shots.
6-8 months of use...
20170605_210104.jpg
20170605_210134.jpg
20170605_210227.jpg

I've heard that some of the 390nm UV diodes did this, by seeing your post confirmed this.

I'm in the process of modifying the layout of my mars units and replacing some of the diodes to mimic the Sb reeflights layout.

Was going to put in two 390nm's, but after seeing yours, I think I'll stay with the 460nm's.

I'll be taking out the 3500k's and 7500k's and replacing with 14000k and 20000k.

I can find the 20000k's on eBay, but for the 14000k's, I can only find ones that say 10000-15000k's. There's no 14000k's that I can find.

I guess it doesn't matter that much, what's your thoughts?
 
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I've heard that some of the 390nm UV diodes did this, by seeing your post confirmed this.

I'm in the process of modifying the layout of my mars units and replacing some of the diodes to mimic the Sb reeflights layout.

Was going to put in two 390nm's, but after seeing yours, I think I'll stay with the 460nm's.
Yeah the 390's don't last long at all. If anything I would switch out two 450nm for 420nm. I was going to order some 420's but other tank issues arose.

Edit: or better yet, switch the two inner 3,500's for two 420nm
 

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