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Yes. you want 20mm diameter and 13.5mm height.Do I need the 20 mm lenses??
The LEDs have two small soldering points. Unfortunately they are not plug and play. Soldering irons can be purchased for $15-$20. The led diodes can be found on Ebay. When searching ebay, search for 3w led chips and filter country. You want 3w diodes. Make sure it doesnt come from China as that can take a month for delivery. This is the seller i get mine from...I have 4 of these wifi populargrow/evergrow boxes
Are the individual leds soldered to a board or plug and play to replace?
I'm sure the lenses are just a straight swap right?
Best place to order the leds?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1W-3W-5W-Wh...hash=item1c79106409:m:mVbHNW-_HyJXm-3KRcQC67Q
When selecting the chip you want, select 3w 10 piece- without pcb- then color.
When using the soldering iron, keep initial warm up to 200deg. When ready, warm iron to 350 deg, and when idle turn temp down to 200 deg. If temp is hotter than 350, you risk burning out the led chip. This might happen a couple times anyway.
For soldering I'm not really familiar with different types. What I'm using is Lead-free wire - Alloy: Sn-0.7 Cu - Flux: 2.0%Good info! What kind of solder is required? I have leaded quad eutectic from audio stuff, which is probably a bad idea for these boards.
Is the transition between setpoints smooth like the radions, etc. or is it just hard transition in intensity between setpoints over the day with the wifi boxes?
Could you post your diode diagram when you get time? I don't need a graphic, just a list of what you have found to be the best balance. I'm using basic boxes from SB now, but I'd like a more natural ramping aesthetic for viewing.
Thanks, great thread!
@saltyfilmfolks I'll be doing some light tests tonight. Any requests? I'll also being doing some minor comparisons between the mars aqua and my light.
You got it! Only thing is this is a 3 year old 16" box with stock 90 deg beaded lenses. There are some 120's on there but no diode chip changes.Actually yes.... Since you offered.
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.
1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%
Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.
I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.
Again... Thank you SO much!
;WackyLux conversion was on par
+1Actually yes.... Since you offered.
On the Mars Aqua. Three different readings for each light channel + combined.
1) One set of values with the dimmer turned all the way down. (just barely turned on.)
2) Values just when the fans kick on... (seems like it's about 30%??)
3) Values at 100%
Repeat for the white(multicolor) channel, and then again with BOTH channels at the same time.
I know it's a lot of time, and it certainly is appreciated. But, I believe this would give us the details that a majority of users will need.
Again... Thank you SO much!
that IMO is concerning. My $15 intensity meter is matched perfectly with my $500 lab calibrated one.Also my $15 lux meter which gave me 30,000 lux at the surface is showing 15,000 lux with the seneye.
Yes i was currious about this. Obviously if you multiply by 2 they match. But it seems overall lux readings are low on the seneye. Even when par is around 400 the lux is almost hitting 20k. So i'm not sure. I'll get a clearer picture this evening.that IMO is concerning. My $15 intensity meter is matched perfectly with my $500 lab calibrated one.
One simple test to(the seney has a tiny sensor) crank the light up, put the meter side by side and put a piece of white paper over both meter sensors.Yes i was currious about this. Obviously if you multiply by 2 they match. But it seems overall lux readings are low on the seneye. Even when par is around 400 the lux is almost hitting 20k. So i'm not sure. I'll get a clearer picture this evening.
I can do that too!One simple test to(the seney has a tiny sensor) crank the light up, put the meter side by side and put a piece of white paper over both meter sensors.
dispersing the light over a broader area should rule out the smaller sensor reading not all of the lights(disco spots).
wow, thats weird and really one of the tests I really wanted to see done.
Since you are running T5's I would think LUX would help with knowing when the bulbs go bad?I can not vouch for the accuracy of the Seneye LUX portion as I was only concerned with the PAR and PUR. I'm also not really concerned with the LUX, unless convinced otherwise, when I have what appears to be accurate enough readings of PAR as I and BRS compared vs other PAR meters. If I had a LUX meter I would compare the Seneye's results but I don't have the desire to get one.
I think we should be as it measures light intensity. so to have 2 light meters with inconsistent readings is kinda concerning.I'm also not really concerned with the LUX, unless convinced otherwise,