The DOs and DON’Ts of Quarantine

[Humblefish]

Fish Diseases 101: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-diseases-101.189284/

 

[Mike2112]

Here is a link on a book that I use for you SW set up. http://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/quarantine . It is a good book and worth the money spent.

 

[TheEngineer]

This is really helpful!

I've personally never QT'd anything (fish, corals or inverts) before putting them in my tanks. That said, I'm planning to actually do it on this new tank. One thing that isn't mentioned in the top post, do you automatically treat with copper or do you wait for signs of a problem? Do you automatically treat with anything?

As for biological filtration... what about bio balls? If I seed some bioballs in my tank and then move them to the HOB on the QT, does that work? I've got tons of them so I can just toss them after each QT session. I plan to take the QT down when it isn't in use.

 

[Reef_Hobbyist]

If your DT is fine and you are just doing QT for new livestock before adding them, do you use saltwater from your DT and a piece of substrate carrying denitrifying bacteria or do you start from scratch with fresh saltwater and everything sterile?

 

[Humblefish]

I've personally never QT'd anything (fish, corals or inverts) before putting them in my tanks. That said, I'm planning to actually do it on this new tank. One thing that isn't mentioned in the top post, do you automatically treat with copper or do you wait for signs of a problem? Do you automatically treat with anything?

This really is a matter of personal choice. Some opt to just passively observe, waiting for symptoms to manifest before treating. This approach will save your tank from diseases like velvet, brook - two diseases with the potential to wipe out your entire fish population. However, at least two diseases - ich & flukes - can be present without the fish showing any obvious physical symptoms. This is because both diseases can harbor in the gills out of sight. Therefore you have to rely upon behavioral symptoms (heavy breathing, scratching, flashing, head twitching, etc.) to let you know something is wrong.

I honestly don't have time to observe for key behavioral symptoms like I should. So I choose to prophylactically treat with copper or CP, or utilize TTM. And also Prazipro. Below are a couple of links you might find useful.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

As for biological filtration... what about bio balls? If I seed some bioballs in my tank and then move them to the HOB on the QT, does that work? I've got tons of them so I can just toss them after each QT session. I plan to take the QT down when it isn't in use.

That will work perfectly. However, many don't like bio-balls being in their DT due to detritus buildup on them which can lead to high nitrates. Not a problem really for QT or FO systems, but not good for a reef.

 

[TheEngineer]

... many don't like bio-balls being in their DT due to detritus buildup on them which can lead to high nitrates. Not a problem really for QT or FO systems, but not good for a reef.

I don't like them either, but I'd be willing to let them get seeded in my tank for a few weeks and then move them to the QT and toss them when I'm done.

Thanks for the links!

 

[Humblefish]

If your DT is fine and you are just doing QT for new livestock before adding them, do you use saltwater from your DT and a piece of substrate carrying denitrifying bacteria or do you start from scratch with fresh saltwater and everything sterile?

So long as you are sure no diseases are present, you can use water from your DT to fill your QT. It makes good use of water from a recent DT water change. However, there is not enough bacteria present in the water to be useful for biological filtration. So you can use a rock or two from your DT for this purpose; although it would have to be removed and considered contaminated if a disease was detected and needed to be treated for.

A better approach is to use a filter in QT with media capable of hosting nitrifying bacteria. See below:

The use of “seeded” bio-media can help to break down ammonia. I personally use an Aquaclear HOB power filter, utilizing the “foam insert” i.e. sponge it comes with. I “seed” the sponge (or multiples) in a high flow area of my DT’s sump (or you can put it behind your rocks) for at least one month prior to QT. This one month allows time for enough beneficial bacteria to transfer onto the sponge, so that it may be used as biological filtration once placed back in the power filter and used in QT. An alternative (albeit expensive) way to instantly seed your sponge is to pour some Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability or Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria over it just prior to use.

Taken from here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

 

[Reef_Hobbyist]

So long as you are sure no diseases are present, you can use water from your DT to fill your QT. It makes good use of water from a recent DT water change. However, there is not enough bacteria present in the water to be useful for biological filtration. So you can use a rock or two from your DT for this purpose; although it would have to be removed and considered contaminated if a disease was detected and needed to be treated for.

A better approach is to use a filter in QT with media capable of hosting nitrifying bacteria. See below:


Taken from here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

Agreed and I would suggest improving on that by using the rubble from the sump or live rock from the DT only to seed the media in the HOB filter in the QT. Run that with some Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride drops to build up the bacteria on the media. Then remove the rock and rely on the HOB media after that. That way your QT is ready faster, you have the same bacteria from your DT that you know is alive and working (rather than risking what's in the bottle) and you are not wasting any live rock in the event the QT gets contaminated or needs to be treated.

 

[Humblefish]

Agreed and I would suggest improving on that by using the rubble from the sump or live rock from the DT only to seed the media in the HOB filter in the QT. Run that with some Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride drops to build up the bacteria on the media. Then remove the rock and rely on the HOB media after that. That way your QT is ready faster, you have the same bacteria from your DT that you know is alive and working (rather than risking what's in the bottle) and you are not wasting any live rock in the event the QT gets contaminated or needs to be treated.

Good advice. But I would just caution NOT to return the rubble/LR back to the DT if a fish is present in QT at that time. You can do it before. But once a new fish enters your QT, you must assume anything he shares water with is contaminated with disease until you are sure of otherwise.

 

[booth2010]

If I was to keep my QT running constantly I know I would need a constant supply of ammonia to keep bacteria from dying. I guess I could buy a cheap fish to keep in there that wouldnt be agessive but are there any inverts I could keep in there instead? Maybe like hermits or something? I know some meds will kill inverts and I do not know if hermits would live or not. I mean I could always just keep a fish in it but I would always be wanting to move it to the DT lol. Hope this makes sense.

 

[Paul B]

That's nuts! I had a velvet outbreak less than ten feet away from the wrasse tank I guess I'm lucky it didn't jump

Also don't leave your skateboard near your tank. 6 or 7 parasites may get on that thing and push right over to your reef tank. Just something to think about.

 

[4FordFamily]

Also don't leave your skateboard near your tank. 6 or 7 parasites may get on that thing and push right over to your reef tank. Just something to think about.

I don't have a skateboard but I do have a basketball nearby. Don't want them hooping their way over

 

[Humblefish]

If I was to keep my QT running constantly I know I would need a constant supply of ammonia to keep bacteria from dying. I guess I could buy a cheap fish to keep in there that wouldnt be agessive but are there any inverts I could keep in there instead? Maybe like hermits or something? I know some meds will kill inverts and I do not know if hermits would live or not. I mean I could always just keep a fish in it but I would always be wanting to move it to the DT lol. Hope this makes sense.

Just toss a tiny pinch of flake in there every few days. That will feed your bacteria.

 

[booth2010]

Just toss a tiny pinch of flake in there every few days. That will feed your bacteria.

I guess I shoulda mentioned that I know I can ghost feed, but the tank will be in my bedroom and if at all possible I would like to have some form of life in the tank. If its not possible I will just set up the QT everytime I buy a fish which should only be 1 or 2 more times.

 

[Humblefish]

I guess I shoulda mentioned that I know I can ghost feed, but the tank will be in my bedroom and if at all possible I would like to have some form of life in the tank. If its not possible I will just set up the QT everytime I buy a fish which should only be 1 or 2 more times.

You could keep a few chromis in there.

 

[ksfulk]

For those of use who break down our QTs, I have a question. Is the sponge used in the HOB filter during QT time just a throw away thing then, since its been exposed to both the infectious agent (ich/flukes/etc) and the treatment (CP/Prazi/etc), or can it be "stripped" of these things and tossed back in the display sump to re-seed again? I know sponges arent expensive, but Im just curious. We breakdown the tanks/heaters/powerheads/pipes and scrub with vinegar and/or bleach to remove the unwanteds - just wasnt sure if thats viable for the HOB media as well.

 

[Humblefish]

For those of use who break down our QTs, I have a question. Is the sponge used in the HOB filter during QT time just a throw away thing then, since its been exposed to both the infectious agent (ich/flukes/etc) and the treatment (CP/Prazi/etc), or can it be "stripped" of these things and tossed back in the display sump to re-seed again? I know sponges arent expensive, but Im just curious. We breakdown the tanks/heaters/powerheads/pipes and scrub with vinegar and/or bleach to remove the unwanteds - just wasnt sure if thats viable for the HOB media as well.

You can, but you're going to have to be OCD about it. Rinse it out thoroughly, and I would also soak it in a mild vinegar solution for 6-12 hrs. This should neutralize any med residuals it has absorbed. You'll next want to dry it out thoroughly - I suggest using a fan. This will sterilize it from any pathogen cysts that may have somehow survived embedded.

Not worth all the trouble if you ask me. You can buy the AC foam inserts for only $1-2 from here: http://www.petmountain.com/product/...-aquaclear-aquaclear-foam-filter-inserts.html

Or buy a BA foam/sponge and cut your own to size.

 

[ksfulk]

You can, but you're going to have to be OCD about it. Rinse it out thoroughly, and I would also soak it in a mild vinegar solution for 6-12 hrs. This should neutralize any med residuals it has absorbed. You'll next want to dry it out thoroughly - I suggest using a fan. This will sterilize it from any pathogen cysts that may have somehow survived embedded.

Not worth all the trouble if you ask me. You can buy the AC foam inserts for only $1-2 from here: http://www.petmountain.com/product/...-aquaclear-aquaclear-foam-filter-inserts.html

Or buy a BA foam/sponge and cut your own to size.

OCD has never been my forte... this was just something that I've never seen addressed in any QT threads, and my brain likes to dwell on things that I dont have answers for. Thanks for the response!

 

[TaylorPilot]

What would be an ideal salinity for doing copper treatment. I know some people run fowlers lower than 1.026 because it's easier on their systems, and there is no need for that high a level if you aren't keeping corals. Just wondering if anyone has ever experimented with it. They may do better around 1.017.

 

[Humblefish]

What would be an ideal salinity for doing copper treatment. I know some people run fowlers lower than 1.026 because it's easier on their systems, and there is no need for that high a level if you aren't keeping corals. Just wondering if anyone has ever experimented with it. They may do better around 1.017.

You are probably right. Lower SG = more dissolved oxygen in the water and less metabolic demand on the fish. So, treating with any medication at 1.017-19 would be better. I also prefer to treat at 75-76F for the same reasons. Below is alprazo's "Salvage protocol for very sick fish":

Almost daily I read a post from someone describing a fish sick from either ich or velvet and can predict that it will not make it to the morning.

There are several techniques that can be employed to reduce the metabolic demands on the fish, reduce stress, decrease the damage from its immune response and possibly keep the fish alive until you are able to eradicate the parasite.

1. Decrease the temperature to 72F for most tropical fish.

2. Decrease the salinity to 1.017 or lower

3. Increase the oxygen saturation to greater than 150% by the addition of pure O2.

4. Turn the lights off

5. Intramuscular injection of dexamethasone at 0.5 mg/kg

Though I have never used all of these techniques together, I have used them all and have been surprised to find that fish swimming the following morning. These are recommendations and should be adjusted to the situation.