I would think the 100 gallon would be safest for all the fish, additionally easier to track and care for one QT than multiple. Granted a 100 gallon QT would not be cheap (but probably cheaper than replacing all livestock)
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
- But DO synchronize the SG/temp of your QT & DT before the fish gets transferred, so you can avoid having to do any acclimation procedure..
Yes. I personally aim to raise it 0.001 sg a day.
So bring up ur QT salinity slowly over few days prior to transferring to match DT salinity?
Yes. I personally aim to raise it 0.001 sg a day.
DO float & release your new fish; DON’T drip acclimate if you can help it. One of the advantages of QT is you can set the specific gravity (SG) to match the bag water. This can usually be determined beforehand by asking the online vendor or local fish shop (LFS) what SG they keep their fish in. Knowing this, you can just float the fish for 20-30 minutes, to slowly bring the temperature of the bag’s water to match that of the receiving tank. Once that is done, open the bag and double check the SG. So long as the SG is within .001 (up or down) of the receiving tank, you can release the fish without further acclimation. If the SG in the bag is lower than the QT, you can quickly lower the SG of a QT by replacing some saltwater with freshwater. If the SG in the bag is much higher than that in the QT, then you are forced to drip acclimate. When doing drip acclimation use an ammonia reducer (ex: Amquel or Prime) if a fish has been in transit for more than a couple of hours.
I punch holes in old tupperware containers to make them into "colanders" using a heated up knife (non heated knife works too but be careful of sharp edges).
I personally hate using nets, fish typically get extremely stressed when they are used but using clear plastic is usually very easy and non stressful on fish.
I'm in the process of refining my QT process. I do TTM, new fish usually going into the first transfer container direct from the bag.
Before going out to get the fish I start two containers, one with salt and one with RO water, both heated and aerated, so I can quickly mix to match the correct salinity after measuring the bag water while floating for temp adjustment. Typically, the receiving SG is around 1.016, while my display is kept at 1.026.
I do daily transfers, as this allows me a fairly big feeding, with the transfer happening within 30mins after, so I don't have to worry about ammonia in the water too much. Since the transfer window isn't as small as with an every 72 hour transfer, I can safely skip a transfer if life gets in the way. I also dose my prophylactic meds (Prazi, ParaGuard and recently also Metro) into the TTM water, one at a time, over the course of TTM.
Now to my first question. I usually raise the salinity over the course of TTM, mixing every new batch of water 0.001SG higher than the previous. In the first post it says that a .001 increase is okay, but is it safe to do so daily for the 10 days it would take to reach my DT salinity, scooping the fish from one container to the next (temp matching)? My containers are covered (except for vent holes and airline entering) to prevent evaporation and salinity swings, aerosol cross contamination and fish jumping.
My second question, is it better for a fish's slime coat - taking into consideration that they're caught once a day - to scoop them with my hand, or a net?
I usually use a net to to corner and contain the fish, but not completely lift out of the water, then scoop it out of the net with my hand to do the transfer. I however recently lost a small fish that somehow got the net caught in its teeth, which I had to cut loose, but fearing damaging its mouth I left a small piece. That piece unfortunately suffocated it, as it died within the hour.
Tank Transfer MethodWhat is TTM?
Tank Transfer Method
Prazipro should be dosed all in one dose. If you are concerned about the level, you can reduce it some overall. But not below 2ppm. It dissapates relatively quick in water. Hence needing to be dosed all at once.
Also, if you are losing fish in prazipro (that were well prior to dosing) I would suspect low oxygen. Need heavy agitation at the surface.
For the pyramid I would add Kanaplex and Furan-2 to your tank with copper. I use them in conjunction with copper frequently.
Thank you so much @HotRocks ! Although I am familiar with QT I have never encountered these issues before. I will beoing back to just being patient with my LFS. The instant gratification of online ordering has been a let down for sure. LOL.Prazipro should be dosed all in one dose. If you are concerned about the level, you can reduce it some overall. But not below 2ppm. It dissapates relatively quick in water. Hence needing to be dosed all at once.
Also, if you are losing fish in prazipro (that were well prior to dosing) I would suspect low oxygen. Need heavy agitation at the surface.
For the pyramid I would add Kanaplex and Furan-2 to your tank with copper. I use them in conjunction with copper frequently.
Also being that both fish you lost were clown/damsel, did you see any white patches or anything that looked like skin sloughing off?
Also Thank you @Humblefish for noting my plight. So is this likely the gram negative bacteria infection I have read about?
Yes, I understand that has taken place with my fish in QT. I believe the butterfly prolly brought it, and I am thinking the captive bred fish were kept separate but what do I know? I think the damsels were just very young/small.Yes, but the thing about bacterial infections is they are often secondary to a preexisting parasitic or worm infestation. Meaning, something like velvet or flukes usually has to be afflicting the fish first before the infection develops. All those tiny bite marks are just ripe for harmful bacteria to invade, and the fish's natural immune system is already weakened from fighting the parasite/worm.