Testing Filament

[Johnd651]

So I did some searching but didn't see anything other then the list of approved filament.

It's not scientific, but I decided to print a temp frag rack with Mika PLA and to test it, put it in rodi, instead of the did my tank crash method. I have been monitoring for color leeching and an increase in TDS. It started at zero and I've checked every 12 hours for the last two days now. Still 0.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

So I did some searching but didn't see anything other then the list of approved filament.

It's not scientific, but I decided to print a temp frag rack with Mika PLA and to test it, put it in rodi, instead of the did my tank crash method. I have been monitoring for color leeching and an increase in TDS. It started at zero and I've checked every 12 hours for the last two days now. Still 0.

Are you testing more filaments or just that one? (Looking into getting a 3d printer so I'm curious)

 

[Johnd651]

Are you testing more filaments or just that one? (Looking into getting a 3d printer so I'm curious)

Just the one for now. Every time I print I'll test another one. I just don't really know what else I need at the moment.

I am looking at buying PETG for permanent stuff, but still probably buy the same one over and over once I find one.

I usually print temperature ladders at the start, so I can always test them at the beginning of each new roll.

 

[Joe31415]

People have been putting 3D printed parts, both PLA and PETG in their tanks for years. I know they say it can cause problems, but...has it? Has anyone actually had something go wrong with their tank that they could pin on a 3D printed part?
I have plenty of 3D printed frag racks and other holders and clips and have yet to have any issues, at least to the best of my knowledge.
In fact, I see 3D printed stuff at the LFS and even on BRS.

In any case, for your test, I'd raise the temperature of the water. As it stands, you're testing a few things that are different than being in the tank. You're using room temp water instead of water at your tanks temp. RODI instead of salt water and no 'other' stuff in the water (nutrients, fish waste, chemicals etc). I understand using RODI so you can measure TDS, but at least raise the temp to match the tank's temp to eliminate a variable. You wouldn't want to find out that whatever leaches out in tank temp water doesn't do it at room temperature.

 

[theatrus]

Really anything but PLA will hold up. PLA isn't UV stable (I have UV in my tank) and depending on the blend used, higher temperatures will cause decomposition. I have miles of ABS plastic all over with no issue.

 

[Johnd651]

People have been putting 3D printed parts, both PLA and PETG in their tanks for years. I know they say it can cause problems, but...has it? Has anyone actually had something go wrong with their tank that they could pin on a 3D printed part?
I have plenty of 3D printed frag racks and other holders and clips and have yet to have any issues, at least to the best of my knowledge.
In fact, I see 3D printed stuff at the LFS and even on BRS.

In any case, for your test, I'd raise the temperature of the water. As it stands, you're testing a few things that are different than being in the tank. You're using room temp water instead of water at your tanks temp. RODI instead of salt water and no 'other' stuff in the water (nutrients, fish waste, chemicals etc). I understand using RODI so you can measure TDS, but at least raise the temp to match the tank's temp to eliminate a variable. You wouldn't want to find out that whatever leaches out in tank temp water doesn't do it at room temperature.

Def agree with you on the temp. This was a temporary rack and quick and dirty test. With it melting at 190°C I don't know if 70 and 78 will make a difference.

 

[Johnd651]

Really anything but PLA will hold up. PLA isn't UV stable (I have UV in my tank) and depending on the blend used, higher temperatures will cause decomposition. I have miles of ABS plastic all over with no issue.

This will be short term until the petg shows up.

 

[Joe31415]

With it melting at 190°C I don't know if 70 and 78 will make a difference.

But melting isn't the issue. Maybe something that can be released at 78 isn't released at 70. I mean, I would doubt it, but if you're going thought the trouble of testing it with a TDS meter, it might as well be as close to actual conditions as possible.
In fact, you could put the RODI and the part into something you can seal (bag, tupperware etc) and toss the whole thing in your sump. That would maintain the temperature for you.