my stupid coral beauty consistently decides to start fights with my female clown, who destroys his fins. Idiot hasn't learned in 6 mo.. he'll get all beat up, then stop for a few weeks to heal then start all over smh. No illnesses always heals so I let them be..I was worried at first but now its like ehh f around and find out fool
The dreaded aptasia. I started off with the chemical and mechanical routes. Used H202, Aptasia X, ect. Freashwater baths and a wire brush. Nothing was working till I went the biological route. Peppermint shrimp and Bergiha nudibranches. Had my 13.5 gal tank all cleaned out, until one managed ti hitchhike its way back into the tanks. Oh well. Back to the biological route I'll go.
If you only have one or two, I've found that blasting them with boiled RODI does the trick, as long as they aren't next to a sensitive coral. Any planula they try to release will get cooked, too!
They have clear PETG and prices have come down a lot but those were both factors in how long I waited.
I have several different autofeeders - Eheim is the name brand that I have and have used it for around 10 years now. Beyond that I have received several Amazon brand feeders as gifts throughout the years. The thing I like about the Amazon feeders is that I don't have to remove the canister to refill it which means I don't have to close the hatch and try to readjust afterwards. The thing I like about the ESHOPPS feeders is the "dryer fan" inside that helps eliminate some of the chance of wet, moldy food.
Dealing with some hair algae. So gar nobclue whatbthe cause is. Currently scrubbing away and changing fikter floss more frequently. Eventually I'll use microbacter clean. I tested paramters, lowered lights, and cut down feedings to no avail.
I have never used one in the past. The issue for me is not being able to keep frozen or cooled food fresh for the autofeeder to feed what I want it to. I would like some way to feed chilled foods and keep the food in waiting from going bad.
My tank got LCA dinos from me trying to get phosphates too low and they bottomed out. To troubleshoot, I joined Mack's Dinoflagellates page on Facebook, used a microscope to ID the dino, and started dosing nitrates, phosphates, silicates, bacteria, pods, phyto. And I am still fighting.
I currently have an Ehiem autofeeder. The main limitation is that it only does dry food. The programming of times and rotations is not easy but it works.
Probably the hair algae I couldn't get rid of in my first tank. I upgraded, got a few tangs and a fox face and haven't seen anything since.
It prints white unless you have some wicked settings I haven't figured out yet. Seen a video on the yous tubes about it though.
I have some cheap auto feeders. They work for what I need them to do, keep everything alive when I'm gone. But I need to keep up on the batteries and they are tedious to set.
The most challenging is decided what fish I want in my tank knowing I cant have them all haha. I constantly change my mind about my next fish.
Oh bubble algea my old friend.
I have used the Hydros auto feeder and its limitation is you need a feed ring of sorts to prevent any floating pellets/Flake from being sucked in the overflow.
Hmmm does a weekend feeder count? Those thing use to make my old freshwater tanks so gross! Its limited by always stanking up the water.
The constant Aiptasia it drives me insane
