T-Slot Aluminum Stand for 250 gallon Tank

Reefer Reboot

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You may want to run the numbers (pounds per square inch) of what the entire set up is going to put on those feet vs. what the Dricore is rated at.
 
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radav88

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You may want to run the numbers (pounds per square inch) of what the entire set up is going to put on those feet vs. what the Dricore is rated at.
The dricore claims to support 6600 lbs./sq. foot so that should be more than enough to handle the pressure from the leveling feet. Unless I'm not understanding how to determine the amount of weight each caster would put on the floor.
 

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The dricore claims to support 6600 lbs./sq. foot so that should be more than enough to handle the pressure from the leveling feet. Unless I'm not understanding how to determine the amount of weight each caster would put on the floor.

You need to know the load on each foot and its total contact surface area. Let’s say it has 2 in.² for easy math. If that’s the case you need to divide 6600 by 72
 

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I was concerned about the weight too, in my case it was per adjustable foot. I was more about the rating of the foot (or castor), since I am on a concrete basement floor. In any case, this is how I evaluated the weight limit, using the 6600 lb. dricore limit and 2 in² area of castor example.

6600 lbs/ft² limit
Conversion to lbs/in² = 6600 lbs / 144 in² = 46 lbs/in²
My loading = 6600 lbs / 2 in² = 3300 lbs/in²
3300 lbs/in² > 46 lbs/in² = exceeds load limit
 

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The dricore claims to support 6600 lbs./sq. foot so that should be more than enough to handle the pressure from the leveling feet. Unless I'm not understanding how to determine the amount of weight each caster would put on the floor.
Ah, but the devils in the details!:eek: I did run the numbers and you will be exceeding the load capabilities of the Dricore according to their website information. The weight I used was just water weight alone. Your actual set up will be considerably heavier with the stand, equipment and rocks. With that being said, I have never used Dricore and do not have any firsthand knowledge as to if it will squish down and spread out if it is installed directly over a cement pad. But I'm pretty sure that the vinyl flooring probably will. Over time it may reek havoc on your leveling.
Numbers run FYI,
tank = 72"x36"x24" = ~2,289 lbs. water weight

sump = 60"x18"x18"= 715 lbs. water weight
(to hold ~ 60 gallons = 510 lbs. water weight)

Max water weight alone = 3,004 lbs.

80 mm diameter adjustable foot from tnutz = 7.791 Sq.in.

If using;
4 adjustable feet = 751 lbs/foot = 96.393 lbs/sq.in.
6 adjustable feet = 500.666 lbs/foot = 64.2 lbs/sq.in.
8 adjustable feet = 375.5 lbs/foot = 48.20 lbs/sq.in.

Dricore subfloor max 6,642 lbs/sq.ft.
= 46.125 lbs/sq.in.

(Dricore Subfloor R+ max 3,153 lbs/sq.ft.
= 21.896 lbs/sq.in.)

The reason I brought up all this is because almost all people want to use leveling feet. Sometimes that can cause more problems (and damage) if the flooring type is not taken into consideration. This is why my personal preference is to not use leveling feet at all unless on a straight cement slab. Any leveling needed can be accomplished by adjusting the length of the vertical pieces.
Using the numbers above, if you were make the stand out of 1.5" extruded aluminum and place the stand (beams) directly on the floor, you would have an effective contact area of approximately 167 sq.in. which would create 17.98 lbs/sq.in..
:thinking-face:And blah blah this and blah blah that....:sleeping-face::rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
Bottom line, your tank, your choice. Have fun!
 
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radav88

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Ah, but the devils in the details!:eek: I did run the numbers and you will be exceeding the load capabilities of the Dricore according to their website information. The weight I used was just water weight alone. Your actual set up will be considerably heavier with the stand, equipment and rocks. With that being said, I have never used Dricore and do not have any firsthand knowledge as to if it will squish down and spread out if it is installed directly over a cement pad. But I'm pretty sure that the vinyl flooring probably will. Over time it may reek havoc on your leveling.
Numbers run FYI,
tank = 72"x36"x24" = ~2,289 lbs. water weight

sump = 60"x18"x18"= 715 lbs. water weight
(to hold ~ 60 gallons = 510 lbs. water weight)

Max water weight alone = 3,004 lbs.

80 mm diameter adjustable foot from tnutz = 7.791 Sq.in.

If using;
4 adjustable feet = 751 lbs/foot = 96.393 lbs/sq.in.
6 adjustable feet = 500.666 lbs/foot = 64.2 lbs/sq.in.
8 adjustable feet = 375.5 lbs/foot = 48.20 lbs/sq.in.

Dricore subfloor max 6,642 lbs/sq.ft.
= 46.125 lbs/sq.in.

(Dricore Subfloor R+ max 3,153 lbs/sq.ft.
= 21.896 lbs/sq.in.)

The reason I brought up all this is because almost all people want to use leveling feet. Sometimes that can cause more problems (and damage) if the flooring type is not taken into consideration. This is why my personal preference is to not use leveling feet at all unless on a straight cement slab. Any leveling needed can be accomplished by adjusting the length of the vertical pieces.
Using the numbers above, if you were make the stand out of 1.5" extruded aluminum and place the stand (beams) directly on the floor, you would have an effective contact area of approximately 167 sq.in. which would create 17.98 lbs/sq.in..
:thinking-face:And blah blah this and blah blah that....:sleeping-face::rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
Bottom line, your tank, your choice. Have fun!
Thank you. This is why I asked. I definitely was misunderstanding how to make those calculations. I definitely have more planning/thinking to do.
 
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radav88

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I have purchased and put together the aluminum stand from alufab. It is 72 inches long x 36 inches wide x 36 inches tall. I've taken care of the floor issue by just putting this directly on the concrete slab. With just the anchor fasteners this thing feels like it's built like a tank. However if I wanted to go over board and enhance it's sturdiness what would be most effective? Adding more corner gussets at each 90 degree connection or adding in the (I'm not an engineer so I don't know what to call them) but the bars that are 45 degrees on each side of those connection points. I guess the other thing I'm wondering is, would I just be throwing away a bunch of money adding like $400 in connectors to what already feels very sturdy?
 

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Can't tell you if you should or shouldn't, but you sound like me! I definitely went overboard, angle braces and gussets everywhere. It makes me feel better about it. The pic below shows the tank just as it was coming in for a landing.

Tanklift6.JPG
 
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radav88

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Can't tell you if you should or shouldn't, but you sound like me! I definitely went overboard, angle braces and gussets everywhere. It makes me feel better about it. The pic below shows the tank just as it was coming in for a landing.

Tanklift6.JPG
That's pretty amazing. Did you have a hard time getting the stand perfectly level? That's the thing I'm obsessing over now.

Otherwise I've decided to go with extra gussetts. I think that will help me sleep better at night.
 

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My build thread has my aluminum stand build in the first page or two. I used 4040 and 4080 for the whole thing. Mine was designed by Chris Benner and the company he uses. The connections are the most important part and when I talked to the manufacturer, I am glad I didn't just trust some of these sites. One weak connector and the whole thing can fold in on itself.
 
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radav88

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I'm finally getting my tank setup after taking months to get the basement finished. I've got a question about the legs of my stand. Right now the top is perfectly level. But if I check to see if the legs are perfectly straight up and down it appears they're ever so slightly off from perpendicular. I've attached a pic of me holding the level against the side of the leg. How do I go about fixing this? The tank is empty just sitting on foam which is on a plywood sheet sitting atop the stand. If it's level on top how is it possible the legs are not perfectly straight up and down?
 

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