Struggling with SPS w Pics

[MarkB30308]

Here’s my PAR readings before I cut them back and after

 

[Lavey29]

Here’s my PAR readings before I cut them back and after

The first one is close but still low. You need 350 to 400 on top.

 

[Lavey29]

Yea. the last order I had from tidal gardens, I did drip acclimation, mounted and did a 50% acclimation on ai prime over 4 weeks. The par on that was probably 225 -350 based on the apogee 510 measurements I got a month ago with those settings.

I don't do the light acclimation period. Just put them on top where they look good and run my lights normal cycle.

 

[sawdonkey]

Those par levels are low for SPs…particularly acros. My tank has those numbers army the very bottom, and I don’t put SPS down there for a reason…they look bad and/or die.

This isn’t a diagnosis, but trying to pull off a SPS tank in 20 gallons is going to be tough. Small changes mean big changes for a tank that small. Plenty of people do it, but it ain’t easy.

 

[90's reefer]

In my 3 systems I only do 10% WC's per month.
In my 20 nano cube I run 2 16HD's.
This nano is all sps.
My lights run:
UV 140%
V 140%
RB 125%
B 125%
R 6%
G 6%
W 15%

I would reduce WC to once a month and up your lights depending on your current levels.
My 20 nano cube.

 

[MarkB30308]

The first one is close but still low. You need 350 to 400 on top.

I may have been misguided by tidal gardens. I thought the 350-400 was for Acros. They state 150+ is high par … maybe it is just low par. I’ve never tried anything but stuff that is supposed to be lower par sps

 

[MarkB30308]

Those par levels are low for SPs…particularly acros. My tank has those numbers army the very bottom, and I don’t put SPS down there for a reason…they look bad and/or die.

This isn’t a diagnosis, but trying to pull off a SPS tank in 20 gallons is going to be tough. Small changes mean big changes for a tank that small. Plenty of people do it, but it ain’t easy.

I haven’t tried any acros, only birds nest, stylo, Pavona and monti digi

 

[Lavey29]

I may have been misguided by tidal gardens. I thought the 350-400 was for Acros. They state 150+ is high par … maybe it is just low par. I’ve never tried anything but stuff that is supposed to be lower par sps

Yes primarily for acros or even higher for them some of the easier SPS you can probably get going ok with 250 to 300 like maybe a stylo. My best one now is a bali green slimer which is suppose to be one of the easiest. It's in middle tank right under the light so maybe 250 par there but my acro frags are at the top about 8 inches below the water line.

 

[MarkB30308]

In my 3 systems I only do 10% WC's per month.
In my 20 nano cube I run 2 16HD's.
This nano is all sps.
My lights run:
UV 140%
V 140%
RB 125%
B 125%
R 6%
G 6%
W 15%

I would reduce WC to once a month and up your lights depending on your current levels.
My 20 nano cube.
View attachment 2557563

This is good perspective, thank you

 

[Dburr1014]

Yea. the last order I had from tidal gardens, I did drip acclimation, mounted and did a 50% acclimation on ai prime over 4 weeks. The par on that was probably 225 -350 based on the apogee 510 measurements I got a month ago with those settings.

Why do a drip acclimation? Float bag, dip, and drop in tank. Easy peezy.
Drip does nothing for a frag.

 

[MarkB30308]

Why do a drip acclimation? Float bag, dip, and drop in tank. Easy peezy.
Drip does nothing for a frag.

I stopped doing that when I introduced this frag.

 

[Rollman]

In my 3 systems I only do 10% WC's per month.
In my 20 nano cube I run 2 16HD's.
This nano is all sps.
My lights run:
UV 140%
V 140%
RB 125%
B 125%
R 6%
G 6%
W 15%

I would reduce WC to once a month and up your lights depending on your current levels.
My 20 nano cube.
View attachment 2557563

Nice SPS nano

 

[Aqua Man]

Yea. the last order I had from tidal gardens, I did drip acclimation,

I use to do the same. Then listened to a reef bum podcast with ACI aquaculture. ACI quit doing acclimations on new shipments and lost less coral.

I figured if the guy who does it for a living is having good results, I’ll try it.

I’ve managed to keep a digitata alive for 2 months now! When before they would only last a couple weeks before the flesh would STN. It’s the only change I made. Float for temp, and in the tank they go.

 

[MarkB30308]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. I double checked my parameters this evening and everything checks out to the numbers I originally posted. I do think it is strange that the alkalinity is around 9 (Blue Bucket says 8dkh at 35 ppt) because it has been at that level for about 9 months before I started dosing anything to keep it consistent.

I think the observations on the LOW PAR probably explain this one. I think I over-indexed at beginning of January before buying the par meter and cut the lights way too far back. Now, it's probably too late to save this frag without potentially shocking the rest of the system. I also think I might just commit to an LPS tank.

Thank you to everyone for the great insights!!

 

[Sarlindescent]

Too add some of my experiences. I have a nuvo 30 with 2 primes and a 2 bulb t5 under a diffuser (cuts the light). It ranges around 100par on the glass and 150-175 on the top rack depending on where under the primes. I have successfully kept and grown many SPS in the tank, but there are limitations. Green birdsnest grew quick, ponape, not so much. Miyagi was another big grower as well as B bonsia. Acropora microclados was a no go, pink lemonade, SSC, etc. Tenius all grew, but some slower than hoped. Millis were hit or miss. Hawkins echinata grew decently. Stylos and pocis were decent growers. If the light is kept at that level, you just have to accept that some will not live in the tank.

As to the follow-up question. You never know with corals, especially SPS. i have kept white dead frags in the system and 3-6 months later some have come back. Depends on how much you can stand looking at damaged corals, but I would not remove anything with flesh left personally. With that, if you up the lighting, do it gradually and don't shock the livestock. My preferred method is to set acclimation mode on my lights and if I want to increase the light 50%, set a 30 day window and start at 66%. Lights should be normal today, little higher tomorrow, and so on.

 

[zpete3323]

Don't know if this helps much but here is my ULM nano tank for reference? I keep a variety of acros, birds nests, and chalice frags here and they are loving life.

I do a 10% water change once a week/every other week depending on motivation level

Radion xr15pro on "Radiant Color" 12hr cycle at 40%

Sicce 1.5 return pump (no additional flow)

And an ATO to top up the evap.

Now with that said I can't keep a ricordia mushroom or a discasoma mushroom alive to save my life but zoas and SPS? You betcha.

My parameters sit about your levels as my water change water comes from the main display so I don't see much of an error there.

Do you use RODI water? If so are the filters up to date/clean?

My only other suggestion is to add some AcroPower into your dosing mix. I have about 10ml/day going into my dual 180g system and can definitely see the results.

I hope you figure this out soon!

 

[90's reefer]

Nice SPS nano

Here my 20g cube today.
White was increased to 31%.