reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

robsworld78

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Thanks Rob this is super helpful. On item I not used in the section on ph drivers is that your instructions make the same mistake I made. The Addresses 41-45 are the hexadecimal address the UI takes

Thanks Rob this is super helpful. On item to check I noticed in the section on ph drivers is that your instructions Seem to make the same mistake I made. The Addresses 41-45 are the hexadecimal address the UI takes base 10. I had to enter 69 to connect to mine at address 0x45.

Glad to hear and thanks for pointing that out.
 

Bigtrout

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I've been using it since winblows xp days, migrated and never looked back, nothing is perfect but I can configure and install just about any version in a thrid of the time, and a whole lot more stable IMHO.

:)
And my router based blocker isnt picking up hundreds of connections to microsoft when running linux! And boot time is amazing...almost instant ON!
 

GaryE

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And my router based blocker isnt picking up hundreds of connections to microsoft when running linux! And boot time is amazing...almost instant ON!
Since switching to ssds my boot times are ridiculous. The bios takes longer to POST than the OS does to boot.
 

Badfish2too

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is there a way to make the reef pi display stuff on a monitor 24/7?
I have it in my fish room and want to be able to walk in and see stats.
Just set up a display for either the pi or on a computer. You only need a browser pointed at the ip for the pi. Or you can use a tablet. You can buy a new Amazon fire tablet for like $30 for just this purpose. Its what I did
 

Des Westcott

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CRON job fail! I was trying to get my feeder to go at 1300 every Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. It fired today at 1300 but I forgot the asterisks is the minute field! So this in turn caused the feeder to fire at 1300 then every minute thereafter luckily I caught it about 10 minutes in

So if I put a 0 in the minute area does this look like it will work? I’m not sure now what to put in the day of the month field. If it’s An asterisks will it activate every day of the month after Tuesday at 1300?
6991023B-A18E-4473-852A-25A0AAC2245D.png
Yip. Should work like that
 

Des Westcott

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Just set up a display for either the pi or on a computer. You only need a browser pointed at the ip for the pi. Or you can use a tablet. You can buy a new Amazon fire tablet for like $30 for just this purpose. Its what I did

CCC5BCF5-20E0-4FBA-85BF-32952A8BC736.jpeg


I have a touch screen hooked up. Is just sitting on the window sill next to the tank at this stage. But will be built in
 

Des Westcott

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CCC5BCF5-20E0-4FBA-85BF-32952A8BC736.jpeg


I have a touch screen hooked up. Is just sitting on the window sill next to the tank at this stage. But will be built in

It's a very old VGA touch moitor, so needs a HDMI - VGA adaptor and then needs a USB cable for the touch component. But it works.

I have set the Pi up to run the monitor in Kiosk mode, so only displays reef-pi, not the underlying Raspbian etc. But I can SSH into the pi at any stage to turn this on or off.
 

elysics

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An off the shelf cheap tablet will be probably cheaper and definitely less hassle than trying to make an old touch monitor work, especially when it comes to replacing it eventually.

But if you have one already anyway, why not.
 

Des Westcott

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An off the shelf cheap tablet will be probably cheaper and definitely less hassle than trying to make an old touch monitor work, especially when it comes to replacing it eventually.

But if you have one already anyway, why not.

Sure. But it required no work other than finding cables lying around with old PC stuff. Plug and play - no drivers, nothing!

And it has a stand and is permanently connected to power. This one came out of a supermarket. Used to be Point Of Sale tillpoint. System ws upgraded and this was replaced. I wasn't going to say no. But if I was going to go out and buy something, a tablet would make more sense. But on the other hand, a tablet would require the router to be powered up. This setup only requires the pi to be powered up (and of course have it's own power).
 

MaccaPopEye

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I have a circuit board that you can solder 8 of these outlets to. Been selling them for years and quite a few use them with no issues, they are safe. It's basically an Arduino relay module but has a snubber for inductive loads. It has it's own AC/DC converter which powers up the relays. I've got a 3D case you can print as well.

I tried those style outlets initially but they don't work well with Australian plugs. Australian plugs do fit in these sockets, but it's an extremely tight fit. I thought the first batch were just off by a mm or something so i tried 2 more batches from different sellers and all were the same. All were extremely tight and the plugs had to really be forced in. They do work though once the plugs are in, it's just not easy to get them back out again. So I guess since most people don't plan to unplug things often they should be fine but I would still advise against them, especially as there are better options now like the wifi boards.

I might have missed it but is anyone able to shed some light on what the requirements for wifi power boards are? As long as they use the IEEE 802.11b/g/n protocol will they work (as long as they are not locked by the manufacturer)?
 

bishoptf

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@Michael Lane, @Bigtrout Or anyone using a meanwell power supply, I assume you have it in an enclosure, correct? Playing with my setup the power light blinks every now and again, I'm watching the voltage and so far I see it bouncing around so I think I am going to just order a meanwell rs-15-5 but need to figure out what to put it in...

Thanks :)
 

Bigtrout

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@Michael Lane, @Bigtrout Or anyone using a meanwell power supply, I assume you have it in an enclosure, correct? Playing with my setup the power light blinks every now and again, I'm watching the voltage and so far I see it bouncing around so I think I am going to just order a meanwell rs-15-5 but need to figure out what to put it in...

Thanks :)
I have 2 of the meanwell rs-15-5 in my case which is about 8"x11"x4". No heat problems in my non ventilated case and voltages are rock steady. I have one ps running my hat and pi, the other running my relay boards. I dialed them in at 5.05V and last time I checked they were right on the dot.
The rs-15-5 are only 2"x2"x1" , so not very large at all. Keep in mind the 120v input and 5v output land on screw terminals on the front of the supply.
 

scottrotton

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Thanks @Des Westcott :)

@scottrotton you can build a DIY power strip to work in Aus like I did here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/3d-printed-reef-pi-build.494515/

My 220V DIY power strip is functional and works fine, although there is relay boards that work better with reef-pi than the one I used and I would highly recommend not going down this path if you aren't comfortable working with 220V mains :eek:

But I still haven't gotten around to finishing the whole build since life got in the way a couple of years ago.

If you can find an Aus wifi power board that works with reef-pi like Des suggested that would likely be a MUCH better option. That wasn't a feature when I started my build (it's amazing to see how far reef-pi has come since I put my build on hold - awesome work Ranjib!!!!).

Edit: speaking of how far reef-pi has come, is there an up to date guide anywhere? I was going to go away for a week in July but now with covid I've had to cancel the holiday but still have the time off work, so there is a chance I might be able to quickly finish this project off (maybe, no promises :p)


Amazing thanks, i'm also a UI designer so once up and running may build a dark mode if anyone would be interested let me know
 

Bliff

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Thanks for the help! I had a feeling that's what I had to do, but figured I'd ask to make sure.

Anyone know what PINS to use on the PI to hook up my temp probe and float switch?

You might already know about this, but pinout.xyz is fantastic for information on choosing an appropriate GPIO pin to use.
 

NeonRabbit221B

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Question on dosing... I setup my dosing pumps per the guide a long while back and it seems like after updating the pumps no longer run in reverse... If I switch the equipment associated it always runs in the same direction... I swear I have used this function before in this physical build. Am I likely having a wiring issue? Using PCA to control all 4 pumps and all 4 have the same issue.
 

Twocorns

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You might already know about this, but pinout.xyz is fantastic for information on choosing an appropriate GPIO pin to use.
I was not, so thanks! Any idea if a resistor is needed for a float switch and temp probe? I think temp does, cant remember about the float switch.
 

robsworld78

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I tried those style outlets initially but they don't work well with Australian plugs. Australian plugs do fit in these sockets, but it's an extremely tight fit. I thought the first batch were just off by a mm or something so i tried 2 more batches from different sellers and all were the same. All were extremely tight and the plugs had to really be forced in. They do work though once the plugs are in, it's just not easy to get them back out again. So I guess since most people don't plan to unplug things often they should be fine but I would still advise against them, especially as there are better options now like the wifi boards.

I might have missed it but is anyone able to shed some light on what the requirements for wifi power boards are? As long as they use the IEEE 802.11b/g/n protocol will they work (as long as they are not locked by the manufacturer)?

I've been told they were tight but didn't it was that bad. I like the sound of wireless but personally scared of the outlets not receiving that ever important signal. Maybe these have an acknowledgment and keep trying if no response but even that can be a problem, can't beat a wire. ;)
 

robsworld78

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I was not, so thanks! Any idea if a resistor is needed for a float switch and temp probe? I think temp does, cant remember about the float switch.

For the temp probe you need a pullup resistor, 4.7k is a good value.

You should add a resistor for the float switch so the pin isn't floating, it can be pullup or pulldown. If you use a pullup and float is unplugged the Pi pin will see a high signal, if you use a pulldown and unplug the Pi will read a low signal. What to use depends on your setup but shouldn't matter much as you can reverse the pin in reef-pi and the float.
 

HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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