reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

[dmolavi]

K..weird question. I just bought a galaxy s9+, running android 9. On my s7 edge, I could load my reefpi browser page fine. I never have an issue on my MacBook, nor on my windows laptop I occasionally have home from work.
But on my s9+, it only loads a blank screen. No 404 nor 500, just a white screen...

Ideas? Somewhere in the logs to search? I can sah or teamviewer into the pi to find anything that's helpful

I had this problem too for a bit on my S9+. Restarted reef-pi and it went away. Not sure what the root cause was.

 

[Bigtrout]

K..weird question. I just bought a galaxy s9+, running android 9. On my s7 edge, I could load my reefpi browser page fine. I never have an issue on my MacBook, nor on my windows laptop I occasionally have home from work.
But on my s9+, it only loads a blank screen. No 404 nor 500, just a white screen...

Ideas? Somewhere in the logs to search? I can sah or teamviewer into the pi to find anything that's helpful

Clear out your browser cache...my s10+ sometimes does this

 

[Zippyfear]

Awesome . Which one you got ? I have uploaded a bunch of enclosure models in thingiverse .

Ender 3 Pro! and I think I downloaded them and have them in the queue after a few printer upgrades.

 

[lmm1967]

Bug?

I've discovered that if I enter in the IP address of the pi in the box for the http server to bind to - reef-pi will not start successfully on a reboot. If you manually restart the service - it's just fine.

I'm assuming thats because I'm using DHCP (with a reservation so I always get the same IP) rather than manually configuring a static IP?

If I leave it all zero's (like below) - I don't have that problem.

Below shows the error.....

.....
Jan 03 07:54:29 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:29 reef-pi is up and running
Jan 03 07:54:30 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:30 Starting http server at: 192.168.50.202:80
Jan 03 07:54:30 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:30 ERROR: Failed to run http server. Error: listen tcp 192.168.50.202:80: bind: cannot assign requested address

 

[pickupman66]

Im playing with a lot of different battery-powered reef-pi options during the holidays (other than hacking on model railroad with reef-pi for my son). And wanted to share some insights,
The goal here is to come up with something that can allow reef-pi users to run minimal system (on demand or automatically) during power outage. As usual with reef-pi, the focus here to get something with frugal, affordable components.
My current thought process is to go with mobile power banks , they are cheap and can run multi-hour, easy to source and have different capacity options. Pair them with 5v airstone and submersible pumps (2W or 3Watts at max). Experiement and document the findings then proceed with 12V beefier/expensive power banks if need be.

With that I first used my wife's 4 year old 4600mAh power bank with a vanilla pi zero w. That ran around 13 hours. But i was not sure how the math works or if the powerbank if giving what its rated for after 4 years of use. So i then got a duracell 3300 mAh powerbank (as shown in the photo) and this one gives roughly 16 hours with wifi and reef-pi running . For some reason, i was expecting the pi will experience some kinda of undervoltage situation, and in anticipation i added undervoltage detector in reef-pi . Its a common problem we encounter in some builds. But surprisingly it didnt trip, i.e. the power went out without lowering voltage (or at least thats what im concluding/deciphering).

None the less, i'll proceed testing with temp sensor, float switch, airstone , submersible pumps etc. And keep you all posted. I think this is pretty cool, it solves emergency backup situation as well as portable controller think (i need that for my saltwater mixing use case). If nothing, the airstone and pump can be directly hooked up to the powerbank for maximum run time.

@Bigtrout @Michael Lane @theatrus and other with more electrical/electronics understanding, can you decipher anything from this data. Here are the key summary:
- 3300 mAh powebank with 5v output
- Pi zero w draws 100-140ma
- Runtime was16.3 hours

Hmmm.. I am pretty keen on this idea as sometimes, my UPS system will just start beeping and I have to Re-set it. This causes a brief power outage situation in the Equipment room thus causing a reboot in my Reef-pi. Many times this causes my issues with a corrupted SD. I would very much like to implement this. BIG question:

I provide power to my PI thru a 5V wired connection directly to the Board.

1. If I use the USB port on the PI, will it still draw from that port?
2. Will Pi Backfeed voltage to the Battery pack thus charging it? id hate for this to send heat into that pack.

Some battery Packs will switch off once the device they are connected to is charged if it senses the Pi "fully Charged" we hope it does not switch off thus rendering this useless.
3.

 

[burningbaal]

Well..I tried all of this. Chrome browser switch to desktop, no change. Clear cache for my website, no change, remote in via TeamViewer to reboot, no change.
Weird, right?
Also tried the Samsung browser desktop and mobile. Maybe I'll download Firefox or something

 

[marekd1]

I'm going to go ahead and put a doser together using those controllers. Thanks for the idea.

Do you know if I'd need to use all 3 pins if I just wanted to control speed in one direction? I'd like to run my pumps forward at 50% or so, but I don't care about reverse.

You will need, one pin for PWM and one for direction for a per channel. PWM comes from the PCA9685 and direction will be from whatever pin you assign from Raspberry-Pi

 

[marekd1]

Bug?

I've discovered that if I enter in the IP address of the pi in the box for the http server to bind to - reef-pi will not start successfully on a reboot. If you manually restart the service - it's just fine.

I'm assuming thats because I'm using DHCP (with a reservation so I always get the same IP) rather than manually configuring a static IP?

If I leave it all zero's (like below) - I don't have that problem.

Below shows the error.....

.....
Jan 03 07:54:29 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:29 reef-pi is up and running
Jan 03 07:54:30 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:30 Starting http server at: 192.168.50.202:80
Jan 03 07:54:30 raspberrypi reef-pi[282]: 2020/01/03 07:54:30 ERROR: Failed to run http server. Error: listen tcp 192.168.50.202:80: bind: cannot assign requested address

Had the same issue. My Reef-Pi is set to static but these are left at 0's otherwise it breaks.

 

[marekd1]

If someone is looking for different options for hooking up the probe to reduce the possibility of blowing the PI here is what I use. Its a sealed connector which is also keyed to make sure you do not plug in the wrong way. Can be found on ebay.

 

[lmm1967]

If someone is looking for different options for hooking up the probe to reduce the possibility of blowing the PI here is what I use. Its a sealed connector which is also keyed to make sure you do not plug in the wrong way. Can be found on ebay.

I just ordered these - will be here tomorrow

Amazon product

 

[Schreiber]

If someone is looking for different options for hooking up the probe to reduce the possibility of blowing the PI here is what I use. Its a sealed connector which is also keyed to make sure you do not plug in the wrong way. Can be found on ebay.

Those look nice, similar to XLR connectors. Curious about your comment about blowing a Pi though... What advantage would this actually have over the BNC connector most pH probes already come with?

 

[lmm1967]

Those look nice, similar to XLR connectors. Curious about your comment about blowing a Pi though... What advantage would this actually have over the BNC connector most pH probes already come with?

I think this is for the temp probe. The reef-pi tutorials utilize a mini stereo headphone / audio jack and the + and - cross over each other when plugging in or removing

 

[burningbaal]

Just tossing this out there...for anyone with a reef pi and a standalone ATO, I have my ATO plugged into a controlled outlet and on a timer so it kicks on once per hour. I get enormous peace of mind from this and highly recommend it to anyone with similar gear.
The ATO (chinese Kamoer off ebay for $30) has an optical sensor and float backup (and I could add another float if I get around to it). It also, in theory, has a timer system like the Tunze and/or ATK, but I'm not sure it does anything since I'm power cycling it like crazy.
I have a timer set so every hour, on the hour, the ATO outlet (in my ADJ power strip) kicks on and turns off 2 minutes later. This way if all else fails, the ATO can't actually move much water into the display since it is only got power 1/30th of the time.
I might actually reduce this to even less time, we'll see. Right now, it only actually runs for a brief couple of seconds. Sometimes my return pump was spinning wrong (it's a hydor pico 100 in my AIO), so the water level in the return was high, when I get the return going correctly again, the next ATO cycle might run for 10-20 seconds. So I think I might set the timer to run for only 45 seconds or so, we'll see.

Anyways, just an idea. Now the question is what I should use the ATO connectors on the goby for I guess I could add sensors and power the ATO jack when those sensors call for it? or just run them as alerts? Or maybe I'll use them for a AWC if I ever set that up?

 

[Schreiber]

I think this is for the temp probe. The reef-pi tutorials utilize a mini stereo headphone / audio jack and the + and - cross over each other when plugging in or removing

Ahhhhh, gotcha. Having 4 conductors really threw me off, since the temperature probes only need 3, while the pH needs 4.

Is anyone actually unplugging their temperature probes often enough to make this upgrade worthwhile? Personally, once I get a sensor connected, it stays in until I'm modifying my setup months later.

 

[marekd1]

Those look nice, similar to XLR connectors. Curious about your comment about blowing a Pi though... What advantage would this actually have over the BNC connector most pH probes already come with?

There is a potential of blowing the PI only if you use the mini stereo plug when adding the temperature senors. Basically you need to make sure there is no power going to the Pi when unplug and plugin in the temp sensors.
If you are not using the mini stereo plug and there is no way for anything to short they you are fine.

The XLR are good BNC as well.

 

[marekd1]

Ahhhhh, gotcha. Having 4 conductors really threw me off, since the temperature probes only need 3, while the pH needs 4.

Is anyone actually unplugging their temperature probes often enough to make this upgrade worthwhile? Personally, once I get a sensor connected, it stays in until I'm modifying my setup months later.

Yes the crossover is the issue as pins will create a short. You only use as many connection points as you want. I have something similar with 8 pins that I use for my lights. Hermetic seal connection makes sure that pins will not corrode over time. Salt does nasty things to wires.

 

[marekd1]

Just tossing this out there...for anyone with a reef pi and a standalone ATO, I have my ATO plugged into a controlled outlet and on a timer so it kicks on once per hour. I get enormous peace of mind from this and highly recommend it to anyone with similar gear.
The ATO (chinese Kamoer off ebay for $30) has an optical sensor and float backup (and I could add another float if I get around to it). It also, in theory, has a timer system like the Tunze and/or ATK, but I'm not sure it does anything since I'm power cycling it like crazy.
I have a timer set so every hour, on the hour, the ATO outlet (in my ADJ power strip) kicks on and turns off 2 minutes later. This way if all else fails, the ATO can't actually move much water into the display since it is only got power 1/30th of the time.
I might actually reduce this to even less time, we'll see. Right now, it only actually runs for a brief couple of seconds. Sometimes my return pump was spinning wrong (it's a hydor pico 100 in my AIO), so the water level in the return was high, when I get the return going correctly again, the next ATO cycle might run for 10-20 seconds. So I think I might set the timer to run for only 45 seconds or so, we'll see.

Anyways, just an idea. Now the question is what I should use the ATO connectors on the goby for I guess I could add sensors and power the ATO jack when those sensors call for it? or just run them as alerts? Or maybe I'll use them for a AWC if I ever set that up?

Over time you learn that you have to be like NASA, double on everything especially sensors. Had sump overflow too many times, now always use double sensors to make sure there is no single failure point. If one sensor fails at least you have a way to know as values for each sensor will be different and this should not be the case in normal state. Optical is the way to go.

 

[lmm1967]

Over time you learn that you have to be like NASA, double on everything especially sensors. Had sump overflow too many times, now always use double sensors to make sure there is no single failure point. If one sensor fails at least you have a way to know as values for each sensor will be different and this should not be the case in normal state. Optical is the way to go.

After witnessing 2 snails "resting" on a float for a float switch - I agree with the optical recommendation.

 

[Ranjib]

Hey all,
I've got a ML goby hat and a just might a no name black box (used) that in trying to set up here. The dimmer boards are showing 4 wires: an on/off, a +12v, a PWM, and a GND. How do I wire these into the goby? I'm pretty sure I can just go directly to the "light 1" just since this is pwm and not analog, but not sure which wire to put where.

Also, should I put the power cords in the adj or is it okay to just dim to 0 and leave them powered on?

@Michael Lane i was wondering what if you start a dedicated thread on the HATs , if you have not already. They are getting popular and its worth consolidating these discussions.

 

[Ranjib]

After witnessing 2 snails "resting" on a float for a float switch - I agree with the optical recommendation.

Hmm.. i never thought of these scenarios. I run a biocube(29G) or pico tanks and have the float sensors mounted on the back chamber. None of my snails ever crossed into the back chamber.