reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Tihsho

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Anyone run into issues with Etcher killing SD cards? Pulled my ASUS Tinker Boards out last night to setup some mini servers to host a database that I'm going to try to tie in to my application and when I went to boot them it seemed that the previously flashed SD cards had somehow got boot sector errors. Went and reflashed them with Etcher with their latest Tinker OS Debian release and ended up getting consistent flash failures. Tried another SD with the same error. Also, ran into an issue where the micro SD would get into a 'locked' state even though I was using a USB adapter to flash them rather than an SD card adapter that contains the silly little lock toggle. Solution to that was to move from one USB port to another, though the flashing process seemed to have messed with the SD cards state. These micro SD's are maybe over a year old and were stored in the Tinker Boards that I had stored in ESD bags when they were not in use.

Thoughts on issues?
 

BenB

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Is there a good write-up anywhere on setting up a float sensor? I've seen a few posts from @Bzar on the topic that had some useful info, but nothing in one place.

Edit, never mind, found what I wanted! Here it is, for anyone else looking to implement a failsafe:

That is interesting, I like to make a physical button to turn on/ of a pump/light
If you make a physical button, how do you work this out in the configuration tab?? And how to make the settings to turn on/of a pump/light?? Do you use the equipment tab?? How to connect the inlet with the outlet?
 
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kapnkush608

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I have built the doser found Here and was wondering how I would expand it to monitor temperature and pH? I originally built it to be a standalone but with support for the wifi power strips coming I feel like I could just add the probes and then use the power strips instead of building a relay. @Ranjib
 

BenB

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You would use this to trigger a voltage drop or addition which you'd have to code to then be a software switch.
Have a button as an inlet, and be able to switch an outlet with reefpi. Maybe this is not possible now and does it require additional code?
 

Tihsho

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I'm not sure if this is built into ReefPi currently as I'm not running the package on my Pi/Tinker board cluster. But programming a trigger button should be trivial.
 
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Ranjib

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Personally, I've never used the whole uln2803 setup. The 5V relays are much easier to work with in my opinion.
Agree. ADJ SRP8, 12V dc peristaltic pump, 12V submersible pump and 12V LED moonlight were my main reason to go with 12V based setup. I also learned, we can get lot more power from 12V compared to 5V. The lm2596 converters and most proto boards have limits of 3A or less current, which mean with 5V you can only use upto 15 Watts, while with 12V you can easily do a 36 Watts setup. Its not required in most cases, but just a point to remember.
 

Michael Lane

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I have built the doser found Here and was wondering how I would expand it to monitor temperature and pH? I originally built it to be a standalone but with support for the wifi power strips coming I feel like I could just add the probes and then use the power strips instead of building a relay. @Ranjib
You have the right idea. You can expand your doser build to include temperature by following the temperature guide.
 
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Ranjib

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@Ranjib I have been running 2.2 for a long time now. I just upgraded to 2.5 and now my LEDs will not dim all the way to off. I then installed 2.4 and still could not dim to off. I installed 2.3 and this time i could dim to off.
Im using a PCA9685. Is there any change from 2.3 to 2.4 that you think would be causing this?
There was some really bad bug that was introduced in 2.1 and later , I fixed some of it , the on /off special case is still not fixed. I ll be fixing it before 3.0.
 
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Ranjib

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I have built the doser found Here and was wondering how I would expand it to monitor temperature and pH? I originally built it to be a standalone but with support for the wifi power strips coming I feel like I could just add the probes and then use the power strips instead of building a relay. @Ranjib
I am using ato like this. It’s been working for two weeks now. But I am still concerned about connection related issues . In case of doser though , I think it’s safer
 
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Ranjib

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This is my reef-pi 3.0 pico tank. Ato uses WiFi outlet driver peristaltic pump
96CA6C24-5E43-4451-B55D-25B981C1C4EC.jpeg


It’s funny :) , the 2.0 controller is right next to it :) and controls the 3.0 controller. I am still conflicted whether I should get rid of the 2.0 completely or keep it or consume it’s functionlity (adj powerstrip control ) in 3.0
 

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Is there any way in the Reef Pi software, in lights, to change the intervals in auto to 1 Hour intervals instead of 2 hour? It would be nice to ramp down between 8pm and 9pm vs 8 to 10
 

L0stmykeys

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I agree with PHopkins on that expand it to even maybe pull from to table would be awesome i was watching brs macna 2019 on my drive home today and they discussed alot about seasons and how apex handles them..... seems like in our case instead of fixed increments an ability to ramp up and down with some seasonal changes would be ideal?

on a side note i now have 3 philzon black boxes working on a PCA9685 along with 1 lux bird black box flawlessly!!!!

head up on the luxbird slightly different from my philzons they are 0-10v but the luxbird is 0-3.3v i used the max line in the settings at 65 which gave me a reading for 3.2v am i correct for doing that? is there any adverse issues im not seeing?
 

Michael Lane

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From what I understand, PR802 might provide the functionality to define arbitrary times for the lights. I don't think it's exposed via the API or UI yet, but I'm looking forward to that feature, so I'm pretty sure it will get in the 3.0 release.
 

PHopkins

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From what I understand, PR802 might provide the functionality to define arbitrary times for the lights. I don't think it's exposed via the API or UI yet, but I'm looking forward to that feature, so I'm pretty sure it will get in the 3.0 release.


That would be outstanding.
 

kapnkush608

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I am using ato like this. It’s been working for two weeks now. But I am still concerned about connection related issues . In case of doser though , I think it’s safer
Thank you for your response, to clarify a little I already built the doser in the adafruit guide. I was wondering where to add the temperature and pH circuits to my existing perma-proto hat.
IMG_20190316_012757.jpg
IMG_20190316_160035.jpg
IMG_20190912_230638.jpg
 
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Ranjib

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Thank you for your response, to clarify a little I already built the doser in the adafruit guide. I was wondering where to add the temperature and pH circuits to my existing perma-proto hat.
IMG_20190316_012757.jpg
IMG_20190316_160035.jpg
IMG_20190912_230638.jpg
follow the temperature controller guide to use GPIO 4 for temperature sensor. I think you have enough space in the hat to solder the 4.7K resistor, if not, solder it against the female audio jack (connector) and just solder the male header pins on the perma proto board. For pH you need two i2c pins (sda. scl), 5v and GND. Same like temp sensor, just solder male header pins on those locations and then use female-female jumper cable to connect the ph board with the hat. Start a thread if you need further assistance. It will be easier to track that way
 

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