Radium metal halide bulbs will not be produced anymore!

[A. grandis]

So I received the Iwasaki today without any notice or tracking. The store was not a scam!
It fits the description of @A. grandis as it also has white salt spary like marks inside.
Excited to compare Iwasaki with Hamilton 20K right next to it.

Does the bulb look okay to use??????

The photos were taken before I tried it. Currently burning in.

The one I use is the MT250D/HTL- BLUE.
I've never used the one you bought.
This is what mine look like:

 

[Madison Reef]

The one I use is the MT250D/HTL- BLUE.
I've never used the one you bought.
This is what mine looks like:

But that's bulb for horiticulture. Product number 57799. I thought the original bulb for aqua culture's product number was 57787 back in history. Maybe @Battlecorals Adam can confirm this? Help Adam!

 

[Madison Reef]

But that's bulb for horiticulture. Product number 57799. I thought the original bulb for aqua culture's product number was 57787 back in history. Maybe @Battlecorals Adam can confirm this? Help Adam!

I was looking at Adam's post and premiumaquatics.

How does the bulb look though? Does it look safe and good to use? I honestly do not know much about bulbs. The only bulbs I've got is 2 x new Hamilton 20K purchased from last year that did not have any "salt spray marks"; it was clean inside of tube.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/that-lamp-i-like-is-not-coming-back-in-style.582194/
https://premiumaquatics.com/products/57787-250-watt-6500-metal-halide-bulb-japan.html

 

[A. grandis]

I was looking at Adam's post and premiumaquatics.

How does the bulb look though? Does it look safe and good to use? I honestly do not know much about bulbs. The only bulbs I've got is 2 x new Hamilton 20K purchased from last year that did not have any "salt spray marks"; it was clean inside of tube.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/that-lamp-i-like-is-not-coming-back-in-style.582194/
https://premiumaquatics.com/products/57787-250-watt-6500-metal-halide-bulb-japan.html

Yup, no worries, try the bulb now and let us know...

 

[Reefering1]

I was looking at Adam's post and premiumaquatics.

How does the bulb look though? Does it look safe and good to use? I honestly do not know much about bulbs. The only bulbs I've got is 2 x new Hamilton 20K purchased from last year that did not have any "salt spray marks"; it was clean inside of tube.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/that-lamp-i-like-is-not-coming-back-in-style.582194/
https://premiumaquatics.com/products/57787-250-watt-6500-metal-halide-bulb-japan.html

This is what it was all about, finding something that works by experimenting and improvising. How halides were found to work in the 1st place

 

[A. grandis]

But that's bulb for horiticulture. Product number 57799. I thought the original bulb for aqua culture's product number was 57787 back in history. Maybe @Battlecorals Adam can confirm this? Help Adam!

Your bulb, with the code number 57787, MT250DL, was made to be used with a H37 ballast.
I use a M58 ballast to run mine.
I guess it should be ok with electronic ballasts, generally speaking.
Just try it. Your bulb was made to be used for aquaculture and aquariums.

 

[Madison Reef]

Your bulb, with the code number 57787, MT250DL, was made to be used with a H37 ballast.
I use a M58 ballast to run mine.
I guess it should be ok with electronic ballasts, generally speaking.
Just try it. Your bulb was made to be used for aquaculture and aquariums.

After a short researching on internet I found that, although bit confusing, iwasaki bulbs are not meant to be used with my lumatek ballasts. When I searched for H37 (mercury vapor), a lot of them are cross-listed as M58. Iwasaki bulbs runs fine with M58 correct? I thought bulbs for M58 is compatible with electronic ballasts thus Iwasaki would be also fine with E ballast. dang it.

This is one thing I hate about metal halide. It's so hard to find the right set of bulbs/ballasts/reflectors......

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/n...tible-with-digital-electronic-ballasts.54271/

 

[Madison Reef]

Your bulb, with the code number 57787, MT250DL, was made to be used with a H37 ballast.
I use a M58 ballast to run mine.
I guess it should be ok with electronic ballasts, generally speaking.
Just try it. Your bulb was made to be used for aquaculture and aquariums.

Thank you so much for sharing the info. Another new thing I learned today.

 

[Z Burn's Reefing]

I decided to take a closer look at my new 250w radiums. I figured given the current situation and market, there may be an increased risk for sellers distributing used bulbs as new. I noticed 2 out of the 6 don’t have the distinct red/salmon/rust colored appearance around the inner tube…they are perfectly clear. Usually I don’t see the inner tube take on the clear appearance until after burn in. Is this still a good marker to use to determine if the bulbs are used or not?

I’ve got a par meter, so can take measurements when I swap out, but trying to be a little proactive I suppose.

 

[A. grandis]

I decided to take a closer look at my new 250w radiums. I figured given the current situation and market, there may be an increased risk for sellers distributing used bulbs as new. I noticed 2 out of the 6 don’t have the distinct red/salmon/rust colored appearance around the inner tube…they are perfectly clear. Usually I don’t see the inner tube take on the clear appearance until after burn in. Is this still a good marker to use to determine if the bulbs are used or not?

I’ve got a par meter, so can take measurements when I swap out, but trying to be a little proactive I suppose.

I also did get some Radiums many times listed as "new" and they came with a very clear arc. It is true that if they come with that reddish marks in the arc, right after they get burned the arc gets clear. But I did get some Radiums from reputable sources that had the clear arc too, so that is acceptable. The reason for that is because the factory tries couple of the lamps per batch, and that's why some of them come with the clear arc. It's part of the quality control for that particular batch.
I think the main thing is not to get "new" bulbs with the dark arc. I've seen lamps for sale (any brand!) listed as "new", showing pictures of the arc very black! LOL! I wrote to one guy once, trying to help, and he just sent me a bunch of swearing. Those people don't know better, or do have a bad intention, of course. Most of the time they just get used bulbs lost in a box from a house somewhere, and try to sell. So many times I got "new" bulbs that came in the wrong box and they were absolutely different in brand, wattage and color. It's a mess! That is part of what's going on right now. Unfortunately.

 

[Z Burn's Reefing]

I also did get some Radiums many times listed as "new" and they came with a very clear arc. It is true that if they come with that reddish marks in the arc, right after they get burned the arc gets clear. But I did get some Radiums from reputable sources that had the clear arc too, so that is acceptable. The reason for that is because the factory tries couple of the lamps per batch, and that's why some of them come with the clear arc. It's part of the quality control for that particular batch.
I think the main thing is not to get "new" bulbs with the dark arc. I've seen lamps for sale (any brand!) listed as "new", showing pictures of the arc very black! LOL! I wrote to one guy once, trying to help, and he just sent me a bunch of swearing. Those people don't know better, or do have a bad intention, of course. Most of the time they just get used bulbs lost in a box from a house somewhere, and try to sell. So many times I got "new" bulbs that came in the wrong box and they were absolutely different in brand, wattage and color. It's a mess! That is part of what's going on right now. Unfortunately.

Sound advice; thanks!

 

[Overboard]

I’m ok

The one I use is the MT250D/HTL- BLUE.
I've never used the one you bought.
This is what mine look like:

 

[Overboard]

I have some EYE Hortilux that look like yours, but the spectrum reflected on the back of the box is different. Not sure why.
I have not used them yet, but will check them out as part of a new frag tank I n a few weeks.

 

[Overboard]

I also picked up these for 400 watt and their description is different but closer to what Adam uses (I think) except they are 400 watt.

 

[oreo54]

I have some EYE Hortilux that look like yours, but the spectrum reflected on the back of the box is different. Not sure why.
I have not used them yet, but will check them out as part of a new frag tank I n a few weeks.

His is for the M1000.. 1000W bulb for one thing.
Edit.. doesn't look very blue..

 

[oreo54]

Thank you so much for sharing the info. Another new thing I learned today.

https://www.lightbulbs.com/catalog/product_pdfs/iwasaki/Iwasaki-CleanArcCleanAce.pdf

 

[oreo54]

I also picked up these for 400 watt and their description is different but closer to what Adam uses (I think) except they are 400 watt.

Clean Ace™ – Operate with Reactor Mercury Ballast ANSI H33.....Burn horizontal (BH)
According to spec..
See pdf.
As to reality..

M59 and H33 differences?

Hi guys. I have a couple of high-bay lights I got from my stepfather's business. They were free and so I'm going to use them. The way the aquarium is going to be set up will have them hidden up inside a wall anyway above the tanks. I really want to use the Iwasaki 6500K MT400D/BUD, but I can'f...

forums.reefcentral.com

The Iwasaki DL version will work and many people have used them on a CWA M59 Metal Halide ballast without any problems but the manufacturer only recommends the DL version to be used on a Reactor (R) H33 Mercury Vapor or High Reactance (HX) H33 Mercury Vapor ballast.

The D version seems to be more common at places that sell horticultural lighting.

The main difference with the D and DL version is the starting circuit within the bulb. The only problem I could see using the DL version is the lamp and/or ballast can be stressed during start up and restarting when used on a M59 ballast. This could shorten the lamp and ballast life over time.

 

[A. grandis]

His is for the M1000.. 1000W bulb for one thing.
Edit.. doesn't look very blue..

I have some EYE Hortilux that look like yours, but the spectrum reflected on the back of the box is different. Not sure why.
I have not used them yet, but will check them out as part of a new frag tank I n a few weeks.

Good catch!
The chat on paper that I posted before is the chart for the Standard Metal Halide Lamps. Those were available only in 400W and 1000W. They also look different in shape.
The other chart, the one on the back of the box, was for the "BLUE" line, and they were available in 250W, 400W, 600W, and also 1000W.
So they both were available in 1000W.
My bad. They both had a blue background and I was in a hurry.
My lamp is actually a 250W and the correct chat is the one on the box. It's also on that flyer that came in my box (see attached pics).
Don't you just love the halide world?

Iwasaki BLUE 250W

 

[Madison Reef]

Clean Ace™ – Operate with Reactor Mercury Ballast ANSI H33.....Burn horizontal (BH)
According to spec..
See pdf.
As to reality..

M59 and H33 differences?

Hi guys. I have a couple of high-bay lights I got from my stepfather's business. They were free and so I'm going to use them. The way the aquarium is going to be set up will have them hidden up inside a wall anyway above the tanks. I really want to use the Iwasaki 6500K MT400D/BUD, but I can'f...

forums.reefcentral.com

Yeap I checked out the pdf and the forum. Thank you so much for the additional info.
I do not think that I would need 400 w even for the future due to my short limbs.
For Iwasaki 6500k the version I have, it specifically requires h37 (or equivalently m58 I hope. Please confirm this.).
It would operate with my electonic ballast but it affects the bulb in a negative way.

Now the search begins for m58...... (and m80)
By any chance, I only see m58 ballasts made for non-aquarium purposes. Are they all the same? i.e. can I buy used ballast (that says m58 ofc) that was used for shop light waaaay above ceiling?
Any difference when it comes to cooling? i.e. do aquarium m58 ballasts have any fans or active cooling system that non-aquarium ballasts do not?

I also picked up these for 400 watt and their description is different but closer to what Adam uses (I think) except they are 400 watt.

Yay iwasaki buddies!

Thank you in advance for your sincere help!

 

[Madison Reef]

Iwasaki BLUE 250W

Is this MT250D/HTL-BLUE? I'm so confused which bulb is which and which one is the "right one".