Questions for those who have worked with 2020 T/V-Slot

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

I need to build a light grid to support the lights you see (8 XR30s and 2 8 foot rows of T5s (aquatic life fixtures) the red lines represent the rough idea. There will be 4 attachment points from the ceiling.

1) will 2020 be sufficient? I was going to go with EZ tube, but the rigidity the corner connectors creates and the ease of attachments, which also creates structural support that T/V slot provides is way more appealing.
2) The tank is 96x36 not including the overflow. I think the 2000mm (78”) option will work in length. I’ll only be able to have 4 attachment points to the ceiling for other reasons. Those would go between the two lights on the left and then the same on the right. I feel that 2020 may need additional support, but 4040 wouldn’t. But, 4040 just seems so darn overkill.

 

[rgulrich]

Welcome the the adult "erector set".
Depending on how you provide rigidity to the structure (to prevent torquing and flexing), 10 series should be able to handle the weight load, but 20 would definitely be up to the job. The build process may be iterative, but planning can limit the number of iterations. There are some resources available online for calculating span/weight support and such.
Here's the one in my living room (older picture from 2020, sorry) using 10 series with a generous number of cross supports for a six foot length:

The support from the celling has four linear actuators to lift and lower the light rack and is made from 10 Series 1 Inch x 2 Inch T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion DIY Extruded Linear Slot Bar Rail, again with generous cross supports made from the same 1 X 2 inch - they're holding the cable supports dropped from the ceiling. The end of the cantilever is mounted to wall studs not as much for "support" but to prevent movement of the lift assembly and torquing. The weight is supported by the ceiling trusses with four (securely mounted) eye screws. In this picture it's supporting four 32" and two 16" ViparSpectra along with six kessils and ballasts. The rack isn't flexing or torquing as designed and implemented. Same goes for the supporting cantilever. This system is supporting five Orphek Atlantik iCon now with no issues.
I have a rather extensive parts list for this build; let me know if you're interested. I might even have a few drawing lying about.

Basic approach: draw it out.
Get the basic parts to hold what you want to support. Focus on bracing the joints with something like the 4140, 10 Series 5 Hole Tee Flat Plate and the 4151, 10 Series 5 Hole 90 Degree Angled Flat Plate, both top and bottom. That will provide good rigidity to the build. If you go with 20 series, get the plates for that size.
Put it together and see if does what you want it to do (preferable in a test area, not over the aquarium).
Fix what doesn't seem right.

Cheers,
Ray

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

Welcome the the adult "erector set".
Depending on how you provide rigidity to the structure (to prevent torquing and flexing), 10 series should be able to handle the weight load, but 20 would definitely be up to the job. The build process may be iterative, but planning can limit the number of iterations. There are some resources available online for calculating span/weight support and such.
Here's the one in my living room (older picture from 2020, sorry) using 10 series with a generous number of cross supports for a six foot length:

The support from the celling has four linear actuators to lift and lower the light rack and is made from 10 Series 1 Inch x 2 Inch T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion DIY Extruded Linear Slot Bar Rail, again with generous cross supports made from the same 1 X 2 inch - they're holding the cable supports dropped from the ceiling. The end of the cantilever is mounted to wall studs not as much for "support" but to prevent movement of the lift assembly and torquing. The weight is supported by the ceiling trusses with four (securely mounted) eye screws. In this picture it's supporting four 32" and two 16" ViparSpectra along with six kessils and ballasts. The rack isn't flexing or torquing as designed and implemented. Same goes for the supporting cantilever. This system is supporting five Orphek Atlantik iCon now with no issues.
I have a rather extensive parts list for this build; let me know if you're interested. I might even have a few drawing lying about.

Basic approach: draw it out.
Get the basic parts to hold what you want to support. Focus on bracing the joints with something like the 4140, 10 Series 5 Hole Tee Flat Plate and the 4151, 10 Series 5 Hole 90 Degree Angled Flat Plate, both top and bottom. That will provide good rigidity to the build. If you go with 20 series, get the plates for that size.
Put it together and see if does what you want it to do (preferable in a test area, not over the aquarium).
Fix what doesn't seem right.

Cheers,
Ray

@rgulrich Note sent. Thank you!

 

[lakai]

I need to build a light grid to support the lights you see (8 XR30s and 2 8 foot rows of T5s (aquatic life fixtures) the red lines represent the rough idea. There will be 4 attachment points from the ceiling.

1) will 2020 be sufficient? I was going to go with EZ tube, but the rigidity the corner connectors creates and the ease of attachments, which also creates structural support that T/V slot provides is way more appealing.
2) The tank is 96x36 not including the overflow. I think the 2000mm (78”) option will work in length. I’ll only be able to have 4 attachment points to the ceiling for other reasons. Those would go between the two lights on the left and then the same on the right. I feel that 2020 may need additional support, but 4040 wouldn’t. But, 4040 just seems so darn overkill.

I'm using 25 series but 20 series should be fine although I would add a gusset to the corners if you aren't using blind joints, just to be safe. Also if you use the radion slide mounts, you can just drill a m5 hole in the middle and use a slide in t-nut w/ m5 bolt and washer to mount the lights rather than have two extrusions