Need help deciding on whether or not a fish is right for your tank? Post here and we'll help!

Reef kid

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Should add the lawnmower is the fattest fish in my tank because I'm not to concerned about algae although it is starting to completely dissapear as I watch nitrate and phosphate much closer now
 

eatbreakfast

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I have a feeling I'm going to get somewhat policed for asking this because I have quite a bit of fish for a 75 gallon tank. But I run .02 phos and 2-5 on nitrate thanks to a turf scrubber I run so my water is pretty good. For stock currently I have:

A medium sized yellow tang who eats voraciously
A Leapord wrasse who eats anything from nori to flake
Two percula clowns
A very fat scooter blennie
A lawnmower blennie
A yellow eye Kole in quarintine
I feel like I'm missing something but if I am it is a very small nano fish
A single turbo snail
To many hermits to count

I run bioballs with a turf scrubber and phosguard to keep nitrates and phosphates in check. I have a skimmer that doesn't work real wll either.

So my question is that down the road once my Kole tang settles in do you think it would be possible to get another Leapord wrasse? Mine is by far my favorite fish and eats like a pig so my theory is that the new one is more likely to eat prepared foods around my fish. I would make it sure it was healthy and watch my parameters like a hawk
The only issue would be with the affect of a new leopard wrasse on your pod population. A leopard wrasse is giving to have an affect on the pod population, having two is going to put more pressure on the pod population. Your pods are the primary source of nutrition for the scooter blenny, so adding another leopard is going to come at the detriment of the scooter.

Female leopard wrasses usually tolerate other females, but males rarely tolerate other males. Introducing a new wrasse to an established one via acclimation box is always a good idea.
 

Reef kid

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The only issue would be with the affect of a new leopard wrasse on your pod population. A leopard wrasse is giving to have an affect on the pod population, having two is going to put more pressure on the pod population. Your pods are the primary source of nutrition for the scooter blenny, so adding another leopard is going to come at the detriment of the scooter.

Female leopard wrasses usually tolerate other females, but males rarely tolerate other males. Introducing a new wrasse to an established one via acclimation box is always a good idea.
I was worried about the pods too, the part that's hard for me is the Leapord I got is amazing, she will eat everything I put in there, literally everything. So I would try to get the new one to do this as well. I am also looking to set up a pod culture right now because I have a friend holding on to a mandarin because despite him eating literally everything he wouldn't fatten up. So if I managed to set up a large enough culture should I be good?
 

Reef kid

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Also, I use half of the turf scrubber( it's horizontal) as a pod refuge

Edit: I would get this all set up months in advance, I'm patient and would not rush this at all
 

eatbreakfast

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I was worried about the pods too, the part that's hard for me is the Leapord I got is amazing, she will eat everything I put in there, literally everything. So I would try to get the new one to do this as well. I am also looking to set up a pod culture right now because I have a friend holding on to a mandarin because despite him eating literally everything he wouldn't fatten up. So if I managed to set up a large enough culture should I be good?
Even though the leopard eats everything, it is still in their nature to hunt pods inbetween feedings.

Also, even if a mandarin is eating prepared foods, their digestive tract is very short, so they still rely on pods for nutrition, since they need to feed almost constantly.
 

Reef kid

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Even though the leopard eats everything, it is still in their nature to hunt pods inbetween feedings.

Also, even if a mandarin is eating prepared foods, their digestive tract is very short, so they still rely on pods for nutrition, since they need to feed almost constantly.
Yes I know which is why I created a brine shrimp feeder like Paul B's. He could be seen eating off it yet it I wast still unable to fatten him up. I understand with the pods, I can figure out how to supply pods my main worry was overstocking my tank, this wouldn't be to many fish as long as they had a food supply?
 

eatbreakfast

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Yes I know which is why I created a brine shrimp feeder like Paul B's. He could be seen eating off it yet it I wast still unable to fatten him up. I understand with the pods, I can figure out how to supply pods my main worry was overstocking my tank, this wouldn't be to many fish as long as they had a food supply?
All the fish are socially compatible, and if you can provide the pods they will be fine, but if not the scooter and mandarin will be the ones to suffer. 75g is a narrow margin of error for those types of pod eaters, it can be done, but doesn't leave much room for over-consumption.
 

Reef kid

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All the fish are socially compatible, and if you can provide the pods they will be fine, but if not the scooter and mandarin will be the ones to suffer. 75g is a narrow margin of error for those types of pod eaters, it can be done, but doesn't leave much room for over-consumption.
Ok, thanks for the help! I have a lot of local people to hold on to fish if anything goes wrong and am more than willing to get rid of the fish if I can't take care of it. So when I approach this I will make sure that all of these fish end up healthy and well. I will go slow though and try to ensure no errors or mishaps occur.
 

tj w

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So I've got a chance to buy a pine cone fish for a decent price. I've only get 3 fire fish,Melanurus wrasse,sailfin tang,and a royal gramma in my 300. Would it work in that environment?
 

eatbreakfast

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So I've got a chance to buy a pine cone fish for a decent price. I've only get 3 fire fish,Melanurus wrasse,sailfin tang,and a royal gramma in my 300. Would it work in that environment?
Pinecone fish do better in cooler water, dimly lit tanks that are geared toward them specifically. They don't compete well for food, and usually need to be started off on live baby mollies, and are difficult to get weaned off of them. Personally, I recommend against them for that tank/tankmates.
 

Sound2

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It sounds like you may have two different dottybacks, the ine with a 'batman mask' will be a fridmani dottyback. They are a peaceful Pseudochromis species, which is not common for the genus. The one without the mask qill be a purple dottyback, which is more aggressive. 30g doesn't give them a whole lot of room to coexist. Hopefully you can catch one to return it, because most likely a 30g will only house one dottyback.

Thanks for the reply. I have caught "batman" and put him in my quarantine tank. He is very happy in there all alone and starting to look healthy again. Not sure the LFS will take him back. Once we transfer to the 90 gal, I may put the dottyback I can't catch in the 30 due to the rock up on Craigslist to see if I can find him a good home. I don't want to tear apart the entire 30 gal until I move into the 90.
 

Duke4Life

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Thanks for the reply. I have caught "batman" and put him in my quarantine tank. He is very happy in there all alone and starting to look healthy again. Not sure the LFS will take him back. Once we transfer to the 90 gal, I may put the dottyback I can't catch in the 30 due to the rock up on Craigslist to see if I can find him a good home. I don't want to tear apart the entire 30 gal until I move into the 90.
You could always try the livestock forum on here to rehome.
 

bandit1994

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what can help fight cyano on the sand I was told a molly might help this is for a ten gallon tank and I don't have a lot of money
 

eatbreakfast

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what can help fight cyano on the sand I was told a molly might help this is for a ten gallon tank and I don't have a lot of money
Queen and fighting conchs will eat cyano, but will likely not last long-term in a 10g. Hectori and rainsford gobies are small and sift sand, but aren't the best sand sifters.

Adding flow, cutting down on feeding, more frequent water changes, or adding a phosphate absorbing media will also help, and will likely be a better solution in a ten gallon tank.
 

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I have a 40b ready to when it out grows the 10 I have a tiger conch though I don't know much about them
 

eatbreakfast

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I have a 40b ready to when it out grows the 10 I have a tiger conch though I don't know much about them
A iger conch should eat cyano, however, if it is not, identifying and addressing the root cause of the cyano would be best.
 

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I am setting up a 5 gallon tank and want to know if there is any fish I could have
 

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