IOWL's IM Nuvo 200 EXT build

[Ioncewaslegend]

Very clean setup. So the one pump does the UV and returns and the other just the manifold and dumps back into the sump?

Sort of. They're plumbed in such a way that the pressure will be split between the UV/return and the manifold; if I turn off the center ball valve, it isolates one pump to UV/return and the other to manifold. The way it's set up lets me power the entire system with one pump if I need to disconnect/clean the other.

Also, I have 2 reactors coming just like yours. Is it pretty easy to figure out how to hang them like you did and what fittings I’ll need?

Thanks! Setup looks great!

It's pretty easy!

Red is a 3/4" slip ball valve, green is a 3/4" to 1/2" slip x slip reducing bushing, blue is a 1/2" slip to 1/2" MPT adapter, yellow is a 1/2" slip x 1/2" mpt 90 degree elbow. You can unscrew the fittings it comes with and screw those on.

It's a bit heavy, though, so I'd suggest using pipe clamps for both the center brace between the two reactors and on either side. You can see the various clamps I have throughout my system; I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08CRL3TBB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Tap the aluminum stand with an m4 or M5 tapping bit, then screw them to the stand. Worked really well for me so far.

Adaptive Reef also sells a premade 1/2" manifold for ~$80, but it's honestly cheaper to just make one yourself.

And thank you for the compliment!

 

[QuickrdenU]

How will running two pumps into one line like that work? I like how it looks much cleaner that way but am curious what the downsides are if any?

Also, I have 2 reactors coming just like yours. Is it pretty easy to figure out how to hang them like you did and what fittings Sort of. They're plumbed in such a way that the pressure will be split between the UV/return and the manifold; if I turn off the center ball valve, it isolates one pump to UV/return and the other to manifold. The way it's set up lets me power the entire system with one pump if I need to disconnect/clean the other.

It's pretty easy!

Red is a 3/4" slip ball valve, green is a 3/4" to 1/2" slip x slip reducing bushing, blue is a 1/2" slip to 1/2" MPT adapter, yellow is a 1/2" slip x 1/2" mpt 90 degree elbow. You can unscrew the fittings it comes with and screw those on.

It's a bit heavy, though, so I'd suggest using pipe clamps for both the center brace between the two reactors and on either side. You can see the various clamps I have throughout my system; I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08CRL3TBB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Tap the aluminum stand with an m4 or M5 tapping bit, then screw them to the stand. Worked really well for me so far.

Adaptive Reef also sells a premade 1/2" manifold for ~$80, but it's honestly cheaper to just make one yourself.

And thank you for the compliment!

thanks for the good info! I have a few of the locking clamps but those are tempting for the price. They grab the pipe pretty snug?

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

thanks for the good info! I have a few of the locking clamps but those are tempting for the price. They grab the pipe pretty snug?

They grab the pipe really snug; to the point it was actually kind of annoying when I was mocking up the plumbing and kept having to pop the pipe out and back in again. I'd imagine the weak point is the tap/threads than the clamp.

(Also, I found the M5-0.8 x 10 mm oval philips screws to work well: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-5mm-0-8-x-10mm-Phillips-Drive-Machine-Screws-8-Count/999994840 . The heads fit in those clamp's holes perfectly, and it gave enough grip without going too deep. I did have to bore the hole a little wider, though.)

And no worries about info. A lot of the ideas I got for this build were from seeing others' builds and stealing what I liked, so just let me know if there's anything you want to know/that I can help out with.

 

[tritonpower]

Drains plumbed and cemented in. Tank will be on the stand Thursday, and I'm aiming to have water in it by Saturday.

I was contemplating how to do the plumbing. I was thinking about finishing the plumbing in the back of the tank while it was on the ground with quick connects and then do the sump plumbing like you with the stand in its place. That way it would be easier when the tank was put in place to finish the plumbing since accessing the back of the tank will be difficult. Is that what you are planning?

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

I was contemplating how to do the plumbing. I was thinking about finishing the plumbing in the back of the tank while it was on the ground with quick connects and then do the sump plumbing like you with the stand in its place. That way it would be easier when the tank was put in place to finish the plumbing since accessing the back of the tank will be difficult. Is that what you are planning?

Pretty much. For whatever reason, IM included the plumbing kit in my order without charging me for it, so my plan was:

1. Place the stand and sump
2. Do the sump plumbing (and being able to move the stand/access the back of the tank was really helpful)
3. Place the tank on the stand
4. Cut the plumbing kit for the overflow connections and return connections to fit
5. Connect cut plumbing kit to the tank
6. Plumb the 'last mile' and connect my sump plumbing to the cut ends

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

It's on!

 

[QuickrdenU]

What are you planning for the bean animal? I don’t have any experience with them. Is it best to leave the primary and secondary completely open up top with maybe just a strainer or is a Durso still recommended for the secondary drain?

I was planning on leaving mine open and then throwing a Durso on it if needed. (I have gate valves on them, mostly just curious about what to do in the overflow box itself)

 

[jp_75]

Does IM tanks come with plumbing?

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

What are you planning for the bean animal? I don’t have any experience with them. Is it best to leave the primary and secondary completely open up top with maybe just a strainer or is a Durso still recommended for the secondary drain?

I was planning on leaving mine open and then throwing a Durso on it if needed. (I have gate valves on them, mostly just curious about what to do in the overflow box itself)

"Leaving on top and throwing a durso if needed" was my approach, too. If it needs the durso top, I'll add one; otherwise, I'm fine with it as-is.

Does IM tanks come with plumbing?

I'm honestly not sure. When I bought mine, they just sold the tank + stand + RFS50 sump. Then they sold all those together with plumbing/return pump included as their only option. Then they sold stand + tank, and the complete kit as two separate options.

I don't think they include the plumbing (and if they do, you're probably gonna want to customize it, though).

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

Been a busy couple of days. Rockwork's in the tank (which is always the most stressful part):

Plumbing is finished:

Started adding water to leak test the sump:

And added sand + started filling!

Had three small leaks with my plumbing: two were halves of elbows that I'd missed gluing after dry-fitting, and the third was the right return bulkhead that I had to clamp down REALLY tight. Got them re-cemented, tested, and my manifold + return have had no leaks so far.

Aiming to finish filling it up tomorrow, mixing in salt to 1.015, testing ammonia, and adding 500 gallons' worth of bottled bacteria to kickstart the cycle.

 

[tritonpower]

Been a busy couple of days. Rockwork's in the tank (which is always the most stressful part):

Plumbing is finished:

Started adding water to leak test the sump:

And added sand + started filling!

Had three small leaks with my plumbing: two were halves of elbows that I'd missed gluing after dry-fitting, and the third was the right return bulkhead that I had to clamp down REALLY tight. Got them re-cemented, tested, and my manifold + return have had no leaks so far.

Aiming to finish filling it up tomorrow, mixing in salt to 1.015, testing ammonia, and adding 500 gallons' worth of bottled bacteria to kickstart the cycle.

looking great. exciting

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

Got busy Saturday, so I wasn't able to get it completely filled.

So, got it partially filled...

Then mostly filled...

Then completely filled...

And now it's alive (after dosing ammonia plus bacteria, with salinity at 1.019* to help replication)!

While the height of the tank is very slightly awkward for side-viewing, it's perfect for viewing from sitting on the couch, and nice to be able to do top-down viewing without a step stool.

Monitoring the cycle now and, if all goes well, we'll be adding a (small) one spot foxface, a red firefish, a purple firefish, a royal gramma, and a banggai cardinal in a few weeks.

My goal for the next week is to do cable management and get everything looking tidy under the tank.

*: Was going to do 1.015. However, I added 3 bags of salt, checked the salinity, and went, "Eh, good enough."

 

[QuickrdenU]

Looking good! How is the overflow? Quiet with just the open pipes?

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

Looking good! How is the overflow? Quiet with just the open pipes?

Overflow has been completely quiet. The only noise so far has been the dripping water from the first chamber through the empty holes where the filter socks will go in the future:

(Sample picture, but I don't have the filter socks/silencers set up yet because I'm cycling the tank. I did get the silencers, and I'll start running filter socks as soon as I have livestock.)

 

[QuickrdenU]

Sounds good! Thanks!

 

[tritonpower]

Is the plumbing 1inch from the overflow and 3/4 inch to both returns?

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

Is the plumbing 1inch from the overflow and 3/4 inch to both returns?

Correct. In my sump, however, the drain bulkheads are 1.5" so I have reducers.

 

[Ioncewaslegend]

My wife pointed out something I can't unsee: our rock structure has googly eyes.

 

[QuickrdenU]

My wife pointed out something I can't unsee: our rock structure has googly eyes.

It looks like a Sesame Street character or something.. haha

 

[tritonpower]

It looks like a Sesame Street character or something.. haha

Cookie monster