Hydros Owners: how happy are you long term?

[n2585722]

I'll play with that later today (or in the next day or two).
Do I have to have a schedule? Can I leave the schedule out so I can just run it on demand by clicking the AWC button on the status page?

Pressing the AWC button will not start the AWC sequence that I know of. You may be able to setup and output to turn on during the AWC mode and use that to start the AWC. You might want to get with support on this as Jeff suggested since they will be able to check things on you system we cannot do here.

On my AWC I just took a Intllab dosing pump and modified it to a dual head dosing pump. I have photos of doing that on my build thread if you are into that type of thing. I did find out it is best to clean the heads and use tubing from the same length of tubing to get them to pump close enough to use. I got spare tubing when I got the pumps off Amazon. I have a low level sensor and a High level sensor if something were to happen. That would shutdown the AWC pump. Since it is draining and filling at the same time the level should not change. I drain from the refugium section of the sump, and fill to the return pump section. I have also used 2 Intllab dosing pumps to do this also. You just have to get then plumb up. adjust one pump for the flow rate you want the pump to run at and instead of draining and filling from the sump place them in a container with a known amount of water. Then adjust the other pump to match the flow rate of the other. When they match the water level should remain the same in the container.

 

[Joe31415]

Pressing the AWC button will not start the AWC sequence that I know of.

When I read that I was thinking that maybe that's my problem. I never set up a schedule. I was just trying to run it from the status page.
However, even though it's never actually worked properly, when I click the WC button on the status page, it will (sometimes) start to do something. For example the power bar will come to life and start the drain pump (which will never stop, or stop but the fill pump doesn't start), so it's doing *something*.

But let me start over fresh when I have time. I'll factory reset the Hydros/app and start a new thread (with you and Jeff tagged here) and go from there.

 

[n2585722]

When I read that I was thinking that maybe that's my problem. I never set up a schedule. I was just trying to run it from the status page.
However, even though it's never actually worked properly, when I click the WC button on the status page, it will (sometimes) start to do something. For example the power bar will come to life and start the drain pump (which will never stop, or stop but the fill pump doesn't start), so it's doing *something*.

But let me start over fresh when I have time. I'll factory reset the Hydros/app and start a new thread (with you and Jeff tagged here) and go from there.

Not sure you would need to do a factory reset. Any inputs or outputs you have setup can be deleted as with any schedules. You would probably need to delete schedules, then outputs and the inputs in that order. If you factory reset you would have to fo through the paring with the wifi strips again.

 

[Joe31415]

I did play with this again last night. I ended up using these directions.

If you are going to use your own ATO you can do the following:

Add the high level sensor input to hydros
Add a new output of type Automatic Water Change.
- Set the high level input you made from above
- leave low level input unused
- Set your drain duration based on your pump rate
- leave the ATO Output Device set to NONE since you are using your own ATO, below I will show how to tie your ATO into the AWC profile
- Set the drain and fill output devices per the outputs on your wifi strips
- configure other advanced features if you wish
Add a new schedule for your AWC by going to Schedules, then add and select Water Change Regimen.
- Set the awc count, start, end, and other schedules for your AWC
- Select the output made above for the AWC Output
Finally lets connect your existing ATO to this profile.
- Make a new output for your ATO, use profile Constant.
- Leave default to off, disabled
- Select which wifi plug that your ATO is plugged into under output device
- Finally set the DEPENDS ON section. Select the Auto Water Change output you generated above and the dependency mode to OFF IF ON. This will turn OFF your ATO when the AWC cycle occurs. I checked with my backup X4 device and my ATO output would turn off if the AWC DRAIN or FILL outputs turned on. But it ignored the AWC output of the AWC profile. You might want to set the AWC output to OFF just incase.

I've got to spend some more time playing with it. I need to get a better understanding of the Modes. It *seems* like I should be able to make the AWC one of the modes, but I can't. I'm not near it to play with it, but off the top of my head, I think when I tried, it would act like it was going to do it, but then it wouldn't.
Also, I don't remember if I gave up on the Mode thing (and set up a schedule instead) before or after I realized I had things plugged into the wrong outlets. It would be really, really, helpful if they labeled the outlets. Even more helpful if they had a way to make a specific device (or outlet on the device) blink so we could make sure we're all on the same page.

So, still needs some work, but at least I don't want to throw it out just yet.

Also, I was thinking about picking up another water level sensor so I could tell it to drain until it hits a low water sensor, then fill until it hits the high level sensor.
My question is, can it be set up so that, regardless of what it's doing, when the high water sensor is wet the fill pump (and possibly ATO*) can't run and when the low level sensor is dry, the drain pump can't run. I'm just thinking that will be one more way to protect it from doing something stupid.

*And, with that, I do love my Tunze Osmolater 3155 ATO. But is it going to be easier in the long run to just use the Hydros' ATO feature since that would be more integrated? It's pretty trivial to pull the pump off the Tunze and connect it to the power bar.

 

[Joe31415]

Not sure you would need to do a factory reset

I ended up not doing a factory reset and not removing the power bars. My reasoning behind that was to make sure that I didn't set something up incorrectly that could plague every attempt going forward. Just for example, I had plugged my Tunze ATO in and set it up using Hydros' ATO profile. Apparently that caused other issues, but when I set it up as "Constant", it seems to be working fine. I'm assuming that was at least one of the problems I was having.

 

[n2585722]

I would not use a wifi bar for ATO. I would use either a drive port or a outlet on the XP8 for that. If for some reason you loose wifi communication between the wifi strip and the controller the wifi strip remains in that state until communication is restored. If you do make sure you ATO reservoir is limited and will not overfill you system if that happens and the ATO is in the on state.

The wifi strips are mass produced. I think the only thing CoralVue can request is the name placed on it and lock in the firmware but they cannot get modifications to things such as firmware. The XP8 is a different story since it is made in house.

 

[Joe31415]

I would not use a wifi bar for ATO. I would use either a drive port or a outlet on the XP8 for that. If for some reason you loose wifi communication between the wifi strip and the controller the wifi strip remains in that state until communication is restored. If you do make sure you ATO reservoir is limited and will not overfill you system if that happens and the ATO is in the on state.

That makes sense and certainly one of the things that was concerning me. Right now I just have this on a 20G AIO QT tank. Being an AIO tank there's not a whole lot of room for error. A pump running longer than expected could quickly overfill the tank, dumping water on the floor or overdrain it, causing the ATO to refill it.
I'm surprised they don't have a way to stop something from running forever if network com is lost. It seems easy enough. Instead of the brain telling the outlet to turn on or off (and then later to turn off or on), I can't imagine it would have been that much harder to design the power bar such that the brain tells the outlet to turn on or off AND how long until it flips back. For example, tell the drain pump to turn on for 20 minutes. The brain can still send the regular 'turn off' signal and the end of the 20 minutes or if it needs to turn off sooner, but the outlet knows to shut itself off if it doesn't receive any further instructions.

Anyway, this is exactly one of the things I've been nervous about. From what I'm reading, the drive port puts out 12v, so it would be trivial to use that for the ATO pump. But that would still leave both my drain and fill pumps for the AWC on wifi power bars which kinda erodes my confidence in the system as a whole.

 

[n2585722]

That makes sense and certainly one of the things that was concerning me. Right now I just have this on a 20G AIO QT tank. Being an AIO tank there's not a whole lot of room for error. A pump running longer than expected could quickly overfill the tank, dumping water on the floor or overdrain it, causing the ATO to refill it.
I'm surprised they don't have a way to stop something from running forever if network com is lost. It seems easy enough. Instead of the brain telling the outlet to turn on or off (and then later to turn off or on), I can't imagine it would have been that much harder to design the power bar such that the brain tells the outlet to turn on or off AND how long until it flips back. For example, tell the drain pump to turn on for 20 minutes. The brain can still send the regular 'turn off' signal and the end of the 20 minutes or if it needs to turn off sooner, but the outlet knows to shut itself off if it doesn't receive any further instructions.

Anyway, this is exactly one of the things I've been nervous about. From what I'm reading, the drive port puts out 12v, so it would be trivial to use that for the ATO pump. But that would still leave both my drain and fill pumps for the AWC on wifi power bars which kinda erodes my confidence in the system as a whole.

You can use the Hydros dosing pumps for AWC. Since the flow rate is low they should work nicely. I use dosing pumps for both ATO and AWC. My tank is a 42 gallon 35f from the pumps in the garage. Also the XP8 appears to be close to coming out. That is a 8 outlet AC controller that is designed and made by CoralVue. The WiFi strips are purchased from the manufacturer and there are not a lot of changes to the original they could request from the manufacturer. Firmware changes apparently are one of the things that they could not modify.

 

[flyfisher2]

I have three Control 2’s
I’m an average Joe
Not looking to write code or anything like that. I have run Apex and still have the original stuff in a box someplace.
I presently have three systems running with three controllers.
Plug and play… when they work.
Internet drops A LOT. Right now I’ve got a weird screen on all three units saying ‘System stale’ and I have no details on anything other than they’re running on normal.
I just had one unit replaced after several calls and the team finally discovering the thing was defective.
The exchange was quick so no complaint there. these things are supposed to make the process easier but it’s been my experience that they themselves are usually the problem.

 

[flyfisher2]

I have three Control 2’s
I’m an average Joe
Not looking to write code or anything like that. I have run Apex and still have the original stuff in a box someplace.
I presently have three systems running with three controllers.
Plug and play… when they work.
Internet drops A LOT. Right now I’ve got a weird screen on all three units saying ‘System stale’ and I have no details on anything other than they’re running on normal.
I just had one unit replaced after several calls and the team finally discovering the thing was defective.
The exchange was quick so no complaint there. these things are supposed to make the process easier but it’s been my experience that they themselves are usually the problem.

 

[n2585722]

The reason for that is something was changed from another device when the app was open. You can either exit out and restart the app or click the blue button lower right to refresh the app.

 

[flyfisher2]

Deleted app and reinstalled. Everything appears to be working again until next time.
Forgive me for sounding bitter.
It’s because I am!
These things are supposed to simplify not complicate.

 

[flyfisher2]

The reason for that is something was changed from another device when the app was open. You can either exit out and restart the app or click the blue button lower right to refresh the app.

I tried both those options. Neither worked.

 

[flyfisher2]

Deleted app and reinstalled. Everything appears to be working again until next time.
Forgive me for sounding bitter.
It’s because I am!
These things are supposed to simplify not complicate.

Went on the help forum screen and I got a message saying no one has ever posted this before.
Lol

 

[n2585722]

I tried both those options. Neither worked.

That is off. I had that happen quite often since the last updates and refresh has always cleared it for me. I know it was because I had the app on two devices since I had both of them in front of me and changed something on one and had the banner come up on the other. I tried it the other way and it did the same thing that way also.

 

[flyfisher2]

I just received a replacement device Sunday
I installed it and addressed all the banners.
Since then all I’ve done is shut units off for maintenance or feeding.
This morning I tried to feed and had the same message on all three units.
Could not open or control anything. No details on outputs, inputs, or wifi devices.
Once I deleted and reinstalled the app all was normal.

 

[n2585722]

I tried both those options. Neither worked.

I just tried it by opening the app on my iPad and opening the app on my phone. I changed something on the phone. and sure enough that banner come up on the iPad. I clicked it and reselected my collective and got my normal screen back. All that is for to let you know there were changes since the last refresh.

 

[n2585722]

I just received a replacement device Sunday
I installed it and addressed all the banners.
Since then all I’ve done is shut units off for maintenance or feeding.
This morning I tried to feed and had the same message on all three units.
Could not open or control anything. No details on outputs, inputs, or wifi devices.
Once I deleted and reinstalled the app all was normal.

That is a different issue then. Make sure all the controllers have the current firmware. The one you got as a replacement may not be on up to date firmware.

 

[flyfisher2]

I just tried it by opening the app on my iPad and opening the app on my phone. I changed something on the phone. and sure enough that banner come up on the iPad. I clicked it and reselected my collective and got my normal screen back. All that is for to let you know there were changes since the last refresh.

I understand what your saying. And I have seen the banners pop up on my other devices but I addressed them when I installed the replacement Sunday.
Since then I’ve not made any changes other than open the app for feeding.
I just went to my laptop to check but have no banners there.

 

[flyfisher2]

That is a different issue then. Make sure all the controllers have the current firmware. The one you got as a replacement may not be on up to date firmware.

All running 197.
The one I received had to update before being able to to program it