If you have been drinking then put the laser down before you put an eye out.Hmmm, seems like the more I drink the better they look!
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If you have been drinking then put the laser down before you put an eye out.Hmmm, seems like the more I drink the better they look!
I used to say that in the bar all the timeHmmm, seems like the more I drink the better they look!
That's funny stuff thereIf you have been drinking then put the laser down before you put an eye out.
When the only tool you have is a hammer, I suppose that everything must look like a nail. Why try to turn every conversation, regardless of the topic to disease prep or ammonia?what's worse: aiptasia, or permanently ruining a reef tank with uronema from adding unprepped animals/no qt?
don't skip disease preps or we'll wind up asking for rescues in Jay's forum by December.
sadly they don’t eat protopalythoa….I look for Sundial snails, Heliacus variegatus, a long time ago to get rid my tank of Zoanthus. That was 30 years ago. This snail is a specific Zoanthus predator.
Not a lot survives an overcoat made from sodium hydroxide and kalk;
Technique for Spot-Treating Algae In Tank (unless it's dumb) NaOH+H2O2
(Edit: after trying it, Garf's suggestion - posts 4,5,6 - is better. I'd use Sodium Hydroxide denser than saltwater + Calcium Hydroxide.) I looked for a few different things to kill hunks of algae in a tank without having to pull the rock out and that might be less work/more effective than...www.reef2reef.com
Just read the other thread.Not a lot survives an overcoat made from sodium hydroxide and kalk;
Technique for Spot-Treating Algae In Tank (unless it's dumb) NaOH+H2O2
(Edit: after trying it, Garf's suggestion - posts 4,5,6 - is better. I'd use Sodium Hydroxide denser than saltwater + Calcium Hydroxide.) I looked for a few different things to kill hunks of algae in a tank without having to pull the rock out and that might be less work/more effective than...www.reef2reef.com
Pretty sure both lye and kalk form magnesium hydroxides in salt water, as part of the high pH reaction.milk of magnesia
Oh, I'm really not all that sciencey. LOLPretty sure both lye and kalk form magnesium hydroxides in salt water, as part of the high pH reaction.
(Hypochlorite = bleach, so not using that one. )Water
Magnesium hydroxide
Sodium hypochlorite
Hundreds of mushrooms? HrmmmI've continued to use it since that thread for numerous things. softies, algae etc. a little NaOH+kalk is my go to for any local thing I don't want in the spot.
Oh, okay, thanks on that one!(Hypochlorite = bleach, so not using that one. )
Not hundreds all at once, but yeah. I use it for any mushroom that isn't where I want it.Hundreds of mushrooms? Hrmmm
Does it kill them or just make them angry and force them to let go?Not hundreds all at once, but yeah. I use it for any mushroom that isn't where I want it.
A little chlorinated water (tap water) doesn't hurt anybody (human). Pretty rough on animals with gills though.Geez, if I ever get "backed up" I'm not using that on myself either! Why would anyone want to drink bleach, yuck!
Anything covered with direct hydroxides will be killed.Does it kill them or just make them angry and force them to let go?
Everyone has or will have these buggers if you don't QT everything. They have adopted to living in our tanks quite well and are really good at survival.
I have used many ways to kill aiptasia I still find them. I have only seen one in my system in the past couple years until a couple days ago. I probably have a dozen since trying to kill that one a couple months ago.
There are several ways to kill aiptasia but I have never found any to be 100% effective.
Not even the Berghia nudibranch is 100%, they eat what they can find and die. Others have success with shrimps and certain fish but if they leave the system certainly the aiptasia will return.
Kalk paste, lemon juice, and commercial remedies at the LFS, all the same. If not used correctly they don't kill 100%. Most likely they lead to the aiptasia getting worse.
I came across this article today and it's the first I've seen it so I wanted to share.
This method says it's about 90% effective. It will burn the aiptasia as long as it's gets onto the target.
This is NOT to be taken lightly by any means. This is a chemical that can do some damage if you don't take your precautions. Wear your personal protective equipment (PPE).
Happy Reefing
aiptasia control
www.reefscapes.net
That matches my experience with aptasia. I had no luck with the commercial products alone. I added the filefish which eliminated the juveniles and I used Joes Juice for the mature ones. It has been over a year without any sightings and the filefish happily pecks away and eats pellet and frozen foods. I have a softy tank and the filefish is not interested in those.I have been using NaOH for the last several months to manage aiptasia, however it hasn't worked to eliminate them. I went from finding one or two a week to hunting down a dozen or more every saturday morning. Most of the ones I killed were the size of a pea.
I'd get every one I could find. Then a week later there would be a dozen more.
In the end I gave up on this and introduced an aiptasia eating filefish. I haven't found a single one since the fish went into the tank a few weeks ago. So far it hasn't bothered any coral or my clams, but I know that is still a risk. I see it pecking at the rocks all the time. I don't know what all it is after, but it is getting the aiptasia as they grow because I never see them anymore.
Not trying to argue but I had different luck I guess. Torches, Hammers and Zoas did well and he did a heck of a job on aptasia. After about a year I let another reefer have him with no issues to date. Kinda the way this hobby goes though.They're not reef safe - at all