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Aleks

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Hello. I finally read all 75 pages. It was wonderful ..... I learned so much new things, and took a lot for my practice. I also have signature teniuses in my tank and they don't do very well.
I hope that I can fix a lot thanks to this thread.
Thank you.
 
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Hello. I finally read all 75 pages. It was wonderful ..... I learned so much new things, and took a lot for my practice. I also have signature teniuses in my tank and they don't do very well.
I hope that I can fix a lot thanks to this thread.
Thank you.
thanks for much for your interest and support. You can ask any questions as you go along here
 

Aleks

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Hello. I wanted to ask - are your systems still on the Red Sea salt in blue buckets? There is no quality salt in our stores. I use Reef Crystals. But it is very expensive and difficult to buy.
I tried to use TM but lost all my corals..
 
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Hello. I wanted to ask - are your systems still on the Red Sea salt in blue buckets? There is no quality salt in our stores. I use Reef Crystals. But it is very expensive and difficult to buy.
I tried to use TM but lost all my corals..


Yes we are still using the red sea blue bucket we like this one the best. We are however switching to the red sea pro version and will switch all of our tanks over within the next few months. We Just sent a triton ICP test over for the red sea pro and will be switching once we get these results back
 

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Hello,

Thanks for your question we are happy to share our quarantine methods. Importing new Coral and getting in any new coral from any source including buying from vendors- all corals should be quarantined. White bugs, Red Bugs and Flatworms are all very easy to kill. Black bugs though IMO are hard. So, at the very least any new incoming coral should be quarantined and observed before putting into a main system.

We use potassium chloride for all our dips and interceptor for red and white bugs.

For the potassium chloride we dip all corals (Torch, Acro, Mushrooms, and goni ect) in a bath 1 gallon of salt water for 10 minutes with 2 tablespoons. The corals actually love this dip and flatworms will fall off in 3 minutes. We have left the corals in this dip for 40 minutes by accident and there was no ill effect to the coral.

For the interceptor we use 9 large dog pills per 550 gallons and do an in-tank treatment for 24 hours. I know this sounds like a heavy dosage, but white bugs will not die unless the dosage is that high. With this large dosage we don’t see any ill affect on the corals. The corals look better with more PE after these treatments. Be aware though that all pods and crabs will die off. Due to this we don’t keep crabs in our system only snails. Snails will not die.

Now for our routine on all incoming imports.

We have a dedicated 360-gallon system for all new imports. This system has all frags racks so the corals can all be dipped at once. We dip the corals a total of 8 times 8 weeks in a row and use interceptor every other week for 8 weeks to make sure anything is killed of. We take each of the racks out and then they fit into these huge plastic tubs so we can dip all corals within 1 hour. This is easy so you don’t have to dip the corals individually.

I hope this writeups helps and happy reefing! We are happy to answer any follow up questions you may have.
see below pics

below is our incoming system for all new shipments. you can see how we have these racks setup so we can take all the racks out with the corals on them to dip the full racks at once. We actually just emptied out this tank into the main system as we are expecting a big shipment tomorrow so need to make room. The quartining cycle was also complete so the corals where ready to be moved into the main systems.


View attachment 2492014

These are the bins we use to dip the racks. Each rack is cut to the same size as the bins

View attachment 2492023

below is the interceptor we use 9 pills per 550 gallons. 24 hours in tank treatment and then do 20% water change following day. Turn off skimmer.

View attachment 2492024

below is the Potassium chloride dip we use 2 tablespoon per 1 gallons

View attachment 2492025

Below is a closeup of our rack system

View attachment 2492026
How do you ensure that no flatworms survive in the sand or water column while you dip the racks? I’ve dipped my racks for six weeks in a row and no longer see flatworms but I found eggs on several frags still on the sixth week. My quarantine tank is just acropora, is there possibly a safe dosage of potassium chloride to run in the hospital tank for six weeks long?
 
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my WD is getting slow
 

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Yes we are still using the red sea blue bucket we like this one the best. We are however switching to the red sea pro version and will switch all of our tanks over within the next few months. We Just sent a triton ICP test over for the red sea pro and will be switching once we get these results back
Why are you switching to the coral pro, It mixes out to 12dkh. Im just about to switch to the blue bucket because after auto dosing and water changes the alk starts to creep up slowly to a level that's a little uncomfortable IMO.
 
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How do you ensure that no flatworms survive in the sand or water column while you dip the racks? I’ve dipped my racks for six weeks in a row and no longer see flatworms but I found eggs on several frags still on the sixth week. My quarantine tank is just acropora, is there possibly a safe dosage of potassium chloride to run in the hospital tank for six weeks long?


i would not dose potassium chloride in the tank that will not be good.

in our experiance the flatworms live on the corals and or go to the corals for feeding. so after the 6-8 weeks of dip you are beating the egg cycle so any new babies that hatch will then be killed by the dip. i dont think aefw live in sand.

the issue some people have is they cut the corals off the rocks and put on racks but sometime they leave crust of the coral. the worms can eat and live on this crust. you have to make sure you are dipping all the corals and leave no crust anywhere on the rocks
 
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Why are you switching to the coral pro, It mixes out to 12dkh. Im just about to switch to the blue bucket because after auto dosing and water changes the alk starts to creep up slowly to a level that's a little uncomfortable IMO.


we have switched to pro and it seems to be working great. we wanted to swtich to pro becouse is has more trace elemements. We do 15 % water change and with 12 alk it bumps the alk up .5% ont he day of the water change. and then during the week it drops back down to the normal level. it has not been an issue yet but we are watching it very closesly to see what happends over a long period of time
 

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we have switched to pro and it seems to be working great. we wanted to swtich to pro becouse is has more trace elemements. We do 15 % water change and with 12 alk it bumps the alk up .5% ont he day of the water change. and then during the week it drops back down to the normal level. it has not been an issue yet but we are watching it very closesly to see what happends over a long period of time
I prolly don’t have as much alk consumption as you but a year ago I was running 8-9 DKH I’m now in the 10-11dkh range and I’m trying to bring it down.
 
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I prolly don’t have as much alk consumption as you but a year ago I was running 8-9 DKH I’m now in the 10-11dkh range and I’m trying to bring it down.


what salt do you use?
 
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@SBB Corals If a client has their alk at 7-7.3 and purchases a coral that is kept in 12 alk, would that cause STN/RTN once placed in the client's tank?
Not necessarily most likely is possible but I’ve ploped and dropped his frags into my tank and they did very well and even kept their color
 
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