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Yeah exactly. Seachem Iodine is actually Iodide, unlike Lugols. From my understanding it's safer to use Iodide.Lugols apparently had other stuff in it that makes it not as good as seachem iodine
I know, its literally off the chart high, not good! I sure do have a torch, one called the SBB Reverse Tiger Holy Grail Splatter and LUCKILY it still looks amazing.
I'm going to get it under 100 slowly like you said, by stopping dosing and my usual every other week water changes. In addition to SPS and the torch, I have a SBB Care Bear Goni, which also is still looking good. My acros aren't as colorful as I'd like, but they still have good PE. I'm hoping by slowly getting the Iodine down to under 100, that my acros will get better color.
I hope that eventually @Hanna Instruments makes a Low Range Iodine Checker for reef.Anybody try the new Iodine test yet?
if you are keeping high end sps you really need to master Iodine IMO
Yes I don't see why they wouldn't especially after this test workingI hope that eventually @Hanna Instruments makes a Low Range Iodine Checker for reef.
Agreed and then they can sell their own reagents. The how to video using the nitrite checker and Red Sea reagents, looks like the process is very precise and scientific.Yes I don't see why they wouldn't especially after this test working
Can you put a picture of this bag?We have been getting alot of question on no3 and po4
the thing with po4 and no3 is that a lot of people will feed heavy to get them up- IMO this is not the best way to get them up because a lot of the food will get wasted and trapped into the rocks. Then in the rocks it will decay and rot and cause buildup and become a negative effect in the system. In order to not have this we feed very strict method where no food gets wasted. All the food goes into the fish bellies and not into the rocks for decay. We feed with american reef hpd and hang the food from a bag that the fish pick on. With the method we are able to keep the no3 and po4 at almost 0. we then dose it up to our desired levels using no3 and po4 additive. This then keeps the no3 and po4 up in a very clean way and then we can control the levels to where we want. With this method we have not needed to use GFO . carbon or UV sterilizer.
Can you put a picture of this bag?
Wow they look amazing! I just finished reading through your thread and I’m very impressed with your coral and methods. From reading through this I see you have evolved your methods slightly and are always looking to “perfect” your systems. I never realized you were in NJ as I’m in Monmouth County myself. I’m dealing with a GHA outbreak and would love to come cherry pick once this is gone.
that PE