Hemmdog’s 90gal Seaciety and 40gal Vale of Shadows

[crusso1993]

Yep ! Haha.
This afternoon I got some plywood cut at Lowe’s, took an hour waiting for someone to cut it.. oh well. Perfect cut. I also got sub floor board that’s super hard and straight. I think it will be really good for under my sump area and directly under the tank. Just spray painted it black with some krylon fusion hoping to get some weather resistance benefits from it. Making moves on this 40b!!
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That looks to be OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

She’s in place. Let’s do this thing!
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I've seen some fancy and different plumbing in my day but I can honestly say I have never seen anyone put a gate valve in their display. Guy cuts a hole in some glass and, all of a sudden, he's Joe the Plumber! Lol

 

[Hemmdog]

That looks to be OSB (Oriented Strand Board).


I've seen some fancy and different plumbing in my day but I can honestly say I have never seen anyone put a gate valve in their display. Guy cuts a hole in some glass and, all of a sudden, he's Joe the Plumber! Lol

Hahahaha.
Yea the plywood is subfloor osb. Supposed to be more water resistant and warp proof than like sheathing plywood. I learned a lot about plywood yesterday... more than I ever wanted to know.

 

[Hemmdog]

Trying a few things. The stand is pretty short so getting this gate valve in a good spot while still giving me room to route the pipes into the sump is giving me some issues. This is my only solution as of now unless I want to use 90’ elbows. I’m trying to avoid dog legs if possible though.

I have a short pipe that goes on the end of that into the sump too. It’s just not in for accessibility while figuring this out.

 

[crusso1993]

Trying a few things. The stand is pretty short so getting this gate valve in a good spot while still giving me room to route the pipes into the sump is giving me some issues. This is my only solution as of now unless I want to use 90’ elbows. I’m trying to avoid dog legs if possible though.
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I have a short pipe that goes on the end of that into the sump too. It’s just not in for accessibility while figuring this out.

Did you try it with the gate valve and the union switched? Not sure if you have enough clearance for the union up top. If you do, give it a shot and see how you like it. You'll have much better access to the valve plus I think it will look cooler. My .01... (I only put .01 in because I'm broke right now)

Never mind... duh! In addition to being broke, I'm not thinking clearly. Put the valve after the union! I can only laugh at myself!

 

[Hemmdog]

Did you try it with the gate valve and the union switched? Not sure if you have enough clearance for the union up top. If you do, give it a shot and see how you like it. You'll have much better access to the valve plus I think it will look cooler. My .01... (I only put .01 in because I'm broke right now)

Never mind... duh! In addition to being broke, I'm not thinking clearly. Put the valve after the union! I can only laugh at myself!

Can they go angled like that ? I feel like I usually seen them vertical. More pics. Nothings glued yet

 

[crusso1993]

Can they go angled like that ? I feel like I usually seen them vertical. More pics. Nothings glued yet
View attachment 1035236
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Sure, you can put a valve anywhere you want to control flow. Give it a try and snap a pic.

After giving it more thought, you could switch the two as long as you have enough room in your sump to accommodate draining your tank below the water line in the overflow. That way, you'd still be able to disconnect the union.

 

[Hemmdog]

Sure, you can put a valve anywhere you want to control flow. Give it a try and snap a pic.

After giving it more thought, you could switch the two as long as you have enough room in your sump to accommodate draining your tank below the water line in the overflow. That way, you'd still be able to disconnect the union.

Giving my hands a quick break lol. I forgot how physically exhausting this becomes after so many pvc things get stuck and I try to get them out. I’m beat, lol.

 

[crusso1993]

Giving my hands a quick break lol. I forgot how physically exhausting this becomes after so many pvc things get stuck and I try to get them out. I’m beat, lol.

Um, ever hear of petroleum jelly? It has many uses...

 

[Hemmdog]

Um, ever hear of petroleum jelly? It has many uses...

Now that’s a good idea... lol

 

[saintsreturn]

For what its worth, i would recommend two more unions higher up on the drain lines. (one each) this way if you ever need to do maintenance, switch something out... or just fiddle with it, you can separate the curved PVC from the overflow box versus having long drain lines to hassle with. I had 2 per line back in the day, which allowed me to shift the sump around when i started buying more equipment, and gave me a smaller section to mess with when i swapped out my valves.

If you chose to do that, i would also reverse the unions so they are opposite of each other. One facing down and the other up, this way if you ever replace any plumbing, you only need to buy one more union as the new piece would use the top and the bottom, versus two tops... Not sure if all that made sense in words.

 

[saintsreturn]

Something like this

Found my old build thread (dont judge, yours looks 1000x better) But i did it this way to give me the ability to remove my overflow easily for cleaning and pulling critters that found their way in there as well as my return line for maintenance reasons. I didnt want to ever be in the position to have to drain the tank to pull it out to access something.

 

[Hemmdog]

Something like this
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That’s a great idea. Let me see if they fit. I got 3 unions, noticed this morning one was slipxthread though
Thank you!

 

[saintsreturn]

just updated my last post. Found my old thread. need to find one more to show you how we did my buddies with valves so we could reach everything at all times.

Dont take any of this as anything other than i just found your thread, love the work and want to offer some options before you glue everything. Your setup is beautiful!

 

[saintsreturn]

 

[saintsreturn]

last post for now.. lol... I will be tagging along for the ride. Love what you are doing and look forward to the final product

 

[Hemmdog]

Something like this
View attachment 1035254

Found my old build thread (dont judge, yours looks 1000x better) But i did it this way to give me the ability to remove my overflow easily for cleaning and pulling critters that found their way in there as well as my return line for maintenance reasons. I didnt want to ever be in the position to have to drain the tank to pull it out to access something.

View attachment 1035260

Is it fine if it’s touching the glass ?

 

[saintsreturn]

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Is it fine if it’s touching the glass ?

If its to close and touching, i would not have it there. The vibrations could end up creating a noise issue and eventually, like years away, cause integrity issues. Can you flip those two blue sections and have it sit just below the stand line so you can access it from underneath and clear the glass? Then you can put the next one after one of the bends. This way you can tweak angles for moves later or take out sections for any changes or clog clearing later.

 

[Hemmdog]

If its to close and touching, i would not have it there. The vibrations could end up creating a noise issue and eventually, like years away, cause integrity issues. Can you flip those two blue sections and have it sit just below the stand line so you can access it from underneath and clear the glass? Then you can put the next one after one of the bends. This way you can tweak angles for moves later or take out sections for any changes or clog clearing later.

I don’t think it will be to bad, it’s not like pushing on the glass. I can get like some thin foam or something.
Here it is ; 2.0
what else do you all suggest?

This works good because if ever need be I can take the tank off the stand and not cut the pipes.

 

[saintsreturn]

Check to make sure you can pull the gate valve section off without having to slide your tank away from the wall. If you have a maintenance issue, it will be there. If you get an anything from algae to just scale build up in that area and need to pull the valve to clean it or replace it, you do not want to have to drain the system.

You want your emergency below the sump edges, but above the water line so if it kicks in you can hear it splash. But you want your primary to be able to go below the water line to silence it. I have a non glued coupler below the acrylic with a couple different sizes of pipe i can swap out as desired. I switch them when i run a sock verses no sock and ensure i can get the water splashing to a min.

Other than that, looks sharp. Make sure your unions are sucked all the way up before you glue so you know your test fit measurements are right. Keep in mind, that the piping may slide in further once lubricated with glue. I screwed this up on my tank and had to make up a 1/4 of a inch at my sumps bulkhead.

I didnt see if you already looked into silencers, but you will want to make a gurgle buster for the main return line. Or something else that you prefer over that.

One more thing, Test screw that gate valve. Depending on your wrist strength, you may want to swing to the side to relieve the upwards wrist twist you will have when you make adjustments. I cannot tell how much clearance you have from the valve to the top of the stand and once you are sitting down and reaching, it may change the way you want to orient that.

Im throwing a lot at you, hopefully its helping. The next step is the most fun but really annoying if you think of something later lol.

 

[Hemmdog]

Check to make sure you can pull the gate valve section off without having to slide your tank away from the wall. If you have a maintenance issue, it will be there. If you get an anything from algae to just scale build up in that area and need to pull the valve to clean it or replace it, you do not want to have to drain the system.

You want your emergency below the sump edges, but above the water line so if it kicks in you can hear it splash. But you want your primary to be able to go below the water line to silence it. I have a non glued coupler below the acrylic with a couple different sizes of pipe i can swap out as desired. I switch them when i run a sock verses no sock and ensure i can get the water splashing to a min.

Other than that, looks sharp. Make sure your unions are sucked all the way up before you glue so you know your test fit measurements are right. Keep in mind, that the piping may slide in further once lubricated with glue. I screwed this up on my tank and had to make up a 1/4 of a inch at my sumps bulkhead.

I didnt see if you already looked into silencers, but you will want to make a gurgle buster for the main return line. Or something else that you prefer over that.

One more thing, Test screw that gate valve. Depending on your wrist strength, you may want to swing to the side to relieve the upwards wrist twist you will have when you make adjustments. I cannot tell how much clearance you have from the valve to the top of the stand and once you are sitting down and reaching, it may change the way you want to orient that.

Im throwing a lot at you, hopefully its helping. The next step is the most fun but really annoying if you think of something later lol.

Great stuff, thank you. The pipe that goes into the sump I don’t plan on gluing like you. So if I need to take it down I can take that pipe out, take off the bulk head, twist and it comes right up. I’ll lengthen the emergency drain a little bit to. I need to go get another bulkhead one of these is so stuck. I won’t be able to get it off to glue it..
Oh and yea the gate valve twists fine like this.