Help? Cycled too fast?

Reef By Steele

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Nitrate would only really get to 100 ppm after adding 25 ish ppm ammonia. Unless you measure a zero nitrite reading, you never can be sure of the nitrate level, early on in a tanks life anyhow.
Yes, as nitrate reading are inaccurate when nitrite is present. I don’t even test nitrate until nitrite has tested at 0 for two days in a row.
 

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Yes, as nitrate reading are inaccurate when nitrite is present. I don’t even test nitrate until nitrite has tested at 0 for two days in a row.
It would be interesting to see if this repeat dosing is beneficial. For example, after the first dose gets consumed in 24hrs, would a second dose get consumed in say 12 hrs, then 6 hrs, and so on. Not seen any data on that as far as I can recall. Saying that, 2ppm ammonia is already quite a lot, normally.
 

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It would be interesting to see if this repeat dosing is beneficial. For example, after the first dose gets consumed in 24hrs, would a second dose get consumed in say 12 hrs, then 6 hrs, and so on. Not seen any data on that as far as I can recall. Saying that, 2ppm ammonia is already quite a lot, normally.
What I can say, and it is purely anecdotal as to that one experience, as I had always done fish in cycles with supplements like prime and Stability. Larger tanks with on to two smaller fish so no huge ammonia swings. I was able to add the three larger 5-6” angels and did not have a significant ammonia issue. I use seachem alert badges as an early indicator so if they change colors even a little I would know to test. Just my personal opinion, but I would assume a continued ammonia supply would mimic the addition of fish, thus feeding the bacteria so they can multiply. Similar to adding fish one at a time and allowing the tank to stabilize as the bacteria grow and increase in quantity to convert the waste from the additional output of the new fish.
Would be nice to have a way to do this if you wanted to add several fish at once, but of course you wouldn’t want to dose ammonia after any live animals have been added.
 

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For reference, a real 2ppm ammonia introduction through fish feed, every 24hrs, would increase nitrates by 50 ish ppm per week, lol. That's a lot.
 
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If you only dosed ammonia once I would be hesitant to say it is cycled. From most of the cycling threads on here it is my understanding that you should raise the ammonia back to 2.0 every day until it reduces it to approximately zero in 24 hours or less.

A pair of clowns would probably be fine to add, but as others have said a little wait wouldn’t hurt anything. Just get small clowns, about the same size unless they are already paired, then you will get to watch one become the dominant female. Kind of fun.

As for test kits, I can never determine a which color it really is, so I use Hanna digital on all my tests.

Have fun. Reefing is an awesome journey.
I dosed 2ppm of ammonia yesterday, and I’m testing again. If it’s at 0 should I say my tank is cycled?
 

Jekyl

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I dosed 2ppm of ammonia yesterday, and I’m testing again. If it’s at 0 should I say my tank is cycled?
Yes. However in taking these extra steps you'll need to measure nitrate also. You'll need a large water change before adding fish.
 

Freenow54

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Hi, I’ve recently started to cycle my tank with Fritz Turbo Start 900, and Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride. My tank is 20 gallons, and I’m pretty sure I dosed correctly. On the first day, I poured in a 1oz of the Fritz, and enough of the ammonium chloride (80 drops). On the second day I tested, and dosed 64 drops of the ammonium chloride. I just tested today (3rd day) and ammonia is testing 0.25-0ppm, and nitrites are at 0.
IMG_4653.jpeg

I know API isn’t the best, but I think it should still be detecting some ammonia or nitrite? Is my cycle done? Should I dose some more ammonium chloride?
PS.. I tested twice and the results were the same both times
I used API They are a Little high I checked with Mr. Farley and he concurs. I like Salifert simply because the syringe is better. They have flat rubber and you are not making mistakes by misreading the meniscus on the API ones. Yes you are expecting too much too soon. The readings make no sense at all to me. Mine took 2-3 months. I have offered this before. I can post the entire process from an unknown author. The crux is 5 ppm ammonia disappears in 24 hours. Then your done
 

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I used API They are a Little high I checked with Mr. Farley and he concurs. I like Salifert simply because the syringe is better. They have flat rubber and you are not making mistakes by misreading the meniscus on the API ones. Yes you are expecting too much too soon. The readings make no sense at all to me. Mine took 2-3 months. I have offered this before. I can post the entire process from an unknown author. The crux is 5 ppm ammonia disappears in 24 hours. Then your done
You will never have a situation where 5ppm ammonia needs to be processed that quickly.
 

Freenow54

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You will never have a situation where 5ppm ammonia needs to be processed that quickly.
I did not say that. Its just the cycling process . I assume proves the bacteria is plentiful. If my ammonia was 5 ppm I would freak
 

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I dosed 2ppm of ammonia yesterday, and I’m testing again. If it’s at 0 should I say my tank is cycled?
Yes. If it converts it in one day I would say that it is safe to add a pair of clowns.
 

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It was between 0.25ppm and 0ppm, this is still safe right?
I would say yes as a color tending test isn’t going to be 100% accurate. Two clowns are not going to produce 2.0 ppm per day. If at all concerned have a bottle of stability from SeaChem or the equivalent from Dr. Tim’s. And dose that daily. I like to have the Seachem ammonia badge on a new tank as a safety back up for the first couple of weeks. If it starts to change to green dose some bottles bacteria, and or a product like prime that neutralizes the ammonia.

But from your test results I would say those are not going to be needed, I just always plan for contingencies.
 
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ZachariahBeanz

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I would say yes as a color tending test isn’t going to be 100% accurate. Two clowns are not going to produce 2.0 ppm per day. If at all concerned have a bottle of stability from SeaChem or the equivalent from Dr. Tim’s. And dose that daily. I like to have the Seachem ammonia badge on a new tank as a safety back up for the first couple of weeks. If it starts to change to green dose some bottles bacteria, and or a product like prime that neutralizes the ammonia.

But from your test results I would say those are not going to be needed, I just always plan for contingencies.
Just to be sure, I’m dosing anything 2ppm of ammonia, and will test tomorrow. And if it reads 0.25ppm or lower, also.what percentage water change should I do? And should I wait a bit before my fish arrive, or should I do it right away?
 

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Yes, dose to 2.0 ppm should take about 61 drops of 5% or 44 drops of 7% read label. Then test in 24 hours. If it drops to 0 or close you are good. The ammonia will already be converted to nitrates so you don’t need to wait to do a water change. If you test your nitrates and get a level you can decide how much to change, but you can change close to 100% if you want. I did that in the 210 as I wanted to start as close to 0 nitrates as I could as I stocked it pretty heavy right after. These fish had been in QT for a good 60 days as I got the system set up and ready.
 
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ZachariahBeanz

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Yes, dose to 2.0 ppm should take about 61 drops of 5% or 44 drops of 7% read label. Then test in 24 hours. If it drops to 0 or close you are good. The ammonia will already be converted to nitrates so you don’t need to wait to do a water change. If you test your nitrates and get a level you can decide how much to change, but you can change close to 100% if you want. I did that in the 210 as I wanted to start as close to 0 nitrates as I could as I stocked it pretty heavy right after. These fish had been in QT for a good 60 days as I got the system set up and ready.
My nitrites also never went up? Or at least the test never detected any. Is this okay?
 

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My nitrites also never went up? Or at least the test never detected any. Is this okay?
Not really. If the ammonia is being broken down, then they form nitrites and another bacteria developed that converts nitrites to nitrates. The only way they can be at 0 is if you have a tremendous amount of senitrifying bacteria, but that grows in anaerobic areas and takes a very long time to establish if ever. You might want to take a sample to your LFS and ask them to test it for you.
 

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1 ppm ammonia converts to 2.7 ppm nitrite and then 3.6 ppm of nitrate. If you have doses to 2.0 ppm on ammonia then you should have 3.6 nitrates. However as said earlier if nitrite is present it will throw off nitrates. Nitrites have to be reduced to 0 before you can test for nitrates.
 

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So day 1 ammonia dosing .1ppm once at night and again in the AM, I get home from work, and the ostreipsis look worse. I still dose my 2nd ammonia dose of the day at that time, and at lights out I basted the dinos off and dosed my 3rd .1ppm dose of the day. I realized when basting that I had some tufts of GHA the dinos were covering making it appear worse.

I do think the dinos soaked up some of the ammonia better than the nitrates, but for the first time in months, I have something else growing on a couple rocks. So I am going to continue dosing and may go back to manual removal.

I have a kenya tree issue, in that I have like 50 of them and those are the only coral my dinos stick to, and are the dinos preferred surface in my tank. While my tank looked like it had double the daily growth of dinos, I noticed the kenya trees over all had significantly less than usual, so it may just be that the ammonia jump started other algae, and the dinos were able to stick to that.

Edit: to be clear, I have had no algae growing for months besides coraline on the back glass, and a green film on the higher rocks that showed up after a blackout I did a few weeks ago. So I feel like this is an improvement.
 

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