ESHOPPS Mariner 70 Build

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Yes you absolutely can.

How much? Well that's hard to say, you could import it into tinkercad at 101% or 102%, measure the bulb of the current locline and make a sphere the same size. Turn the Y to a hole and edge the sphere into it to see what the fit is like.

I actually done that for some different RFGs, someone was needing a size they couldn't find online so I scaled it up to find the fit.

Might need to go as much as 104%. Seems that number sticks in my mind for some reason.
Some people posted makes on a different Y as 109% but I feel like that would make the tops too tight. I'll try 104%.
 

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I'm spamming up your build...
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I've been trying to work on my fusion 360 skills, using tutorials, but it seems every time I sit down it's "Dad, Dad, Dad."

Took me an hour to get through a 20 minute video and I don't think I retained any of it....

Scared Marvel Cinematic Universe GIF by Leroy Patterson
But it was worth it!
 

Stang67

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The tops are a little loose - very close though.
IMG_20240129_194929407.jpg

The base is not loose enough for the Loc Line fittings I have. I think I can heat it with hot water and it'll work.

I wonder if I could find a threaded wye...
I think you can find threaded ones on the loc line site. Nevermind ;)
 

Mschmidt

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So I decided that since my pump is enough flow for 3 of the 1/2" VFGs and I currently have 4 plus the 2 that came with the tank (that's 6 total - now you don't have to math - I'm talking to you @Mschmidt ) I decided to print a loc line 1/2" wye splitter. If it turns out good, I'll probably print two more but in black instead of transparent (I prefer to call it "Frosted Glass ").
Thanks for the help.
Calculate Figure It Out GIF by Originals

Too easy

You... Have... A.... 3D.... Printer.... Throw that $80 in the trash and use $80 of filament to DIY it... LOL
and 4 hours to design it! or better yet, no loc line, print the rigid tube in the configuration you want. then change your mind. then find out the size is wrong.
104%

Remember every printer may be different, temps, squish, speed, fans, it can cause small differences in size.
and shrinkage (less an issue with petg, but may play a hand).
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I believe the hole in the top allows it to be self priming and siphon break both. When the pump shuts off and the water gets down in the overflow chamber the siphon breaks. When the pump is running and the water level rises in the chamber, the trapped air in the drain tube is able to be released through that same hole allowing the water to start flowing through the drain tube again.

Speaking of siphon breaks, I believe the return pipe has no siphon break hole in it. The theory (I believe) is that the VFGs will be the siphon break when the water level drops below the top of the fitting. Per VCA I believe it has to be 1/8" exposed to creat the siphon break.
Hopefully that's the intent and works well. Warrants a short video to show it doing the siphon break at some point? BTW once you have it setup please report if the overflow/drain system is noisy and/or sensitive to slight changes with the pump flow rate. I suspect not, this is probably an advantage of the inverted J drain pipe, I speculate it provides some sort of fluid damping effect.
 
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Well, I talked to ESHOPPS today and they're excited for me to share my suggested improvements this far AND he watched my videos and is already making plans to update the instructions to include dry fitting BEFORE gluing anything.

Also also, I hope 1% is the ticket for the Tim Lock Wye because I set it to print 2 in black... Didn't even consider printing 1 to make sure...

IMG_20240130_183109867.jpg
 

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