ESHOPPS Mariner 70 Build

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

BTW is the overflow made from glass? Also the main drain pipe inside the overflow is interesting. It looks like a inverted J tube with a hole at the top? Does it develop a full siphon?

That's a "durso" style drain.

 

[tbrown]

BTW is the overflow made from glass? Also the main drain pipe inside the overflow is interesting. It looks like a inverted J tube with a hole at the top? Does it develop a full siphon?

Yes, overflow is glass. I haven't filled the tank fully yet - my wife wants me to let it sit half full for a few days to make sure the seams don't fail.

I'm going with what @EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal said on the drain. I'm not positive how it works, I assumed it was the emergency overflow drain.

 

[tbrown]

Ok, I just looked it up - the other pipe is the emergency.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Ok, I just looked it up - the other pipe is the emergency.

Yes.
Fwiw, I have not seen the Eshopps plumbing in person but if it were me, I'd try to ditch the durso in favor of a straight pipe with a strainer. IME, dursos are an added inconvenience with no real benefit.

 

[tbrown]

Unfortunately it's too late for that now. The pipes glue into the bulkheads. Another thing I would change - and should have and may eventually.

I'll need to cut the pipes and replace the bulkheads.

 

[stoney7713]

Unfortunately it's too late for that now. The pipes glue into the bulkheads. Another thing I would change - and should have and may eventually.

I'll need to cut the pipes and replace the bulkheads.

Don't forget the silicone grease on the threads!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-Grease/1092167

 

[tbrown]

So far, water has been in the tank about half full and none of the external seams are dripping or seeping. External seams.

One of the seams at the base of the overflow somewhere (I assume it's the base because I don't see anything dripping from the vertical edges) is seeping very slowly into the overflow chamber. There's less than a tablespoon of water in the chamber currently so a very slow leak and in an area that's not going to cause major problems unless the pump is off for several days.

 

[fishguy242]

Should let them know...

 

[stoney7713]

So far, water has been in the tank about half full and none of the external seams are dripping or seeping. External seams.

One of the seams at the base of the overflow somewhere (I assume it's the base because I don't see anything dripping from the vertical edges) is seeping very slowly into the overflow chamber. There's less than a tablespoon of water in the chamber currently so a very slow leak and in an area that's not going to cause major problems unless the pump is off for several days.

It won't cause any issues unless the drain or return pipe leaked. Even then the overflow will probably get sealed with sand and muck. Some overflows are designed with grates halfway down, so really not much to worry about.

 

[tbrown]

Should let them know...

I'm planning on it. I did touch on some of it in th video.

 

[tbrown]

It won't cause any issues unless the drain or return pipe leaked. Even then the overflow will probably get sealed with sand and muck. Some overflows are designed with grates halfway down, so really not much to worry about.

This one isn't. I was kind of surprised it wasn't.

 

[nickng]

Ok, I just looked it up - the other pipe is the emergency.

Yeah the straight-thru open pipe should be emergency. I have a feeling the Inverted J pipe, depending on whether something is attached to the top of hole in the J pipe or alternatively that the pipe is supposed to work with the hole fully submerged then in both cases it will be full siphon. Just an unusual Herbie style drain. And the hole is simply for emergency ie if the hole is exposed it sucks air makes noises to let owner know that water level is too low or flow rate is too slow?

 

[tbrown]

Yeah the straight-thru open pipe should be emergency. I have a feeling the Inverted J pipe, depending on whether something is attached to the top of hole in the J pipe or alternatively that the pipe is supposed to work with the hole fully submerged then in both cases it will be full siphon. Just an unusual Herbie style drain. And the hole is simply for emergency ie if the hole is exposed it sucks air makes noises to let owner know that water level is too low or flow rate is too slow?

I believe the hole in the top allows it to be self priming and siphon break both. When the pump shuts off and the water gets down in the overflow chamber the siphon breaks. When the pump is running and the water level rises in the chamber, the trapped air in the drain tube is able to be released through that same hole allowing the water to start flowing through the drain tube again.

Speaking of siphon breaks, I believe the return pipe has no siphon break hole in it. The theory (I believe) is that the VFGs will be the siphon break when the water level drops below the top of the fitting. Per VCA I believe it has to be 1/8" exposed to creat the siphon break.

 

[Projects with Sam]

I believe the hole in the top allows it to be self priming and siphon break both. When the pump shuts off and the water gets down in the overflow chamber the siphon breaks. When the pump is running and the water level rises in the chamber, the trapped air in the drain tube is able to be released through that same hole allowing the water to start flowing through the drain tube again.

Speaking of siphon breaks, I believe the return pipe has no siphon break hole in it. The theory (I believe) is that the VFGs will be the siphon break when the water level drops below the top of the fitting. Per VCA I believe it has to be 1/8" exposed to creat the siphon break.

That's why I made the ParlaNoz. One can keep it closer to the top for the siphon break without pulling in as many air bubbles. In practice I just drilled a tiny hole in the return pipe (always just above the water line) so the break occurs instantaneously. I angled the holes so they're pointed down...

 

[tbrown]

That's why I made the ParlaNoz. One can keep it closer to the top for the siphon break without pulling in as many air bubbles. In practice I just drilled a tiny hole in the return pipe (always just above the water line) so the break occurs instantaneously. I angled the holes so they're pointed down...

That's what I did on the 125. I forgot to do it on this one though and now it's all glued in place.

 

[tbrown]

So I decided that since my pump is enough flow for 3 of the 1/2" VFGs and I currently have 4 plus the 2 that came with the tank (that's 6 total - now you don't have to math - I'm talking to you @Mschmidt ) I decided to print a loc line 1/2" wye splitter. If it turns out good, I'll probably print two more but in black instead of transparent (I prefer to call it "Frosted Glass ").

 

[tbrown]

 

[tbrown]

The tops are a little loose - very close though.

The base is not loose enough for the Loc Line fittings I have. I think I can heat it with hot water and it'll work.

I wonder if I could find a threaded wye...

 

[tbrown]

Actually... @Projects with Sam or @stoney7713 I wonder if I increased the % if it would work. I wonder what % would be necessary.

 

[stoney7713]

Actually... @Projects with Sam or @stoney7713 I wonder if I increased the % if it would work. I wonder what % would be necessary.

Yes you absolutely can.

How much? Well that's hard to say, you could import it into tinkercad at 101% or 102%, measure the bulb of the current locline and make a sphere the same size. Turn the Y to a hole and edge the sphere into it to see what the fit is like.

I actually done that for some different RFGs, someone was needing a size they couldn't find online so I scaled it up to find the fit.

Might need to go as much as 104%. Seems that number sticks in my mind for some reason.