Dinosaur to Phoenix, a new 22G Long mini build
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- Thread starter theatrus
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OP
OP
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Dr. Dendrostein
Marine fish monthly
Thanks for sharing, comrade. Awsome build
Algaewarrior
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OP
OP
A concept for the sump:
Inside the sump is (very rough) model of a Tunze DOC 9004 Skimmer, and a holder for a 4" sock plus two piping or heater holders for 1" Sch80. The two red boxes are modeling two Sicce Syncra 1.5 pumps (though I am planning to use 1.0/0.5).
Also, I re-did the stand tubing to have 6 points of contact to the ground instead of four corners.
Inside the sump is (very rough) model of a Tunze DOC 9004 Skimmer, and a holder for a 4" sock plus two piping or heater holders for 1" Sch80. The two red boxes are modeling two Sicce Syncra 1.5 pumps (though I am planning to use 1.0/0.5).
Also, I re-did the stand tubing to have 6 points of contact to the ground instead of four corners.
rushbattle
Valuable Member
I really like this setup. Nice and simple.A concept for the sump:
Inside the sump is (very rough) model of a Tunze DOC 9004 Skimmer, and a holder for a 4" sock plus two piping or heater holders for 1" Sch80. The two red boxes are modeling two Sicce Syncra 1.5 pumps (though I am planning to use 1.0/0.5).
Also, I re-did the stand tubing to have 6 points of contact to the ground instead of four corners.
very cool!
Diamond1
Valuable Member
A concept for the sump:
Inside the sump is (very rough) model of a Tunze DOC 9004 Skimmer, and a holder for a 4" sock plus two piping or heater holders for 1" Sch80. The two red boxes are modeling two Sicce Syncra 1.5 pumps (though I am planning to use 1.0/0.5).
Also, I re-did the stand tubing to have 6 points of contact to the ground instead of four corners.
Any particular reason for the Tunze skimmer and not a more conventional style?
OP
OP
Size and small tank primarily. My current line of thinking is much larger refuge and small skimmer.
The next realistic small skimmer would be the RO 150 Space Saver.
OP
OP
Happy to hear it - the last chamber teeth do need to go, but I do run smooth weirs on my 90g sump with no major bubble issues.
OP
OP
I'm re-doing the overflow box a bit. Now the interior box is smaller, and the bulk-head will need to be half-installed before final gluing. The external box is raised to properly accommodate the herbie emergency drain.
OP
OP
Had a bad head cold today so not much progress on much of anything, except for looking at too many overflow designs to count.
Currently thinking of this, including plumbing. The gate valve in the sump is not modeled on the siphon drain (can't seem to find a ready made model out there, bummer)
I've shrunk the overflow to a single on-tank bulkhead, which allows decreasing a majority of the dimensions (and I can upsize that bulkhead to 1"). Two 3/4" drains to the sump, one of which will have a gate valve. I'm going to design a pipe strap (3d print) for the T-slot to the drain pipes to hold them in place and not carry the plumbing weight on the external overflow box.
Currently thinking of this, including plumbing. The gate valve in the sump is not modeled on the siphon drain (can't seem to find a ready made model out there, bummer)
I've shrunk the overflow to a single on-tank bulkhead, which allows decreasing a majority of the dimensions (and I can upsize that bulkhead to 1"). Two 3/4" drains to the sump, one of which will have a gate valve. I'm going to design a pipe strap (3d print) for the T-slot to the drain pipes to hold them in place and not carry the plumbing weight on the external overflow box.
OP
OP
I've been putting the design files online:
https://github.com/theatrus/phoenix-aquarium
For those of your who are interested.
https://github.com/theatrus/phoenix-aquarium
For those of your who are interested.
OP
OP
Updates on the overflow and returns:
Two 1/2" returns. Bulkheads are so big here, it would be nice to get to a way to seal these holes with a smaller footprint, but if the back is entirely black who will notice?
The return box is now coupled with 1 1", and the entire return box has shrunk. The middle of the returns is 1.5" below the top edge of the glass - I don't want to drill any higher to the top edge., or I could just HOB the returns (easier! but breaks the rimless look). The horizontal spacing isn't set yet. The return weir bottom is currently set at 0.9" from the top of the tank, realistically the flowing water would be 0.7" or so.
I also have some Soss hinges on hand, as well as the router template. I'm going to test mounting the hinges into some scrap lumber first. I really love the motion though. Once I settle on the front door setup, I'll finally get to ordering the (significantly over specified and overbuilt) 8020.
Two 1/2" returns. Bulkheads are so big here, it would be nice to get to a way to seal these holes with a smaller footprint, but if the back is entirely black who will notice?
The return box is now coupled with 1 1", and the entire return box has shrunk. The middle of the returns is 1.5" below the top edge of the glass - I don't want to drill any higher to the top edge., or I could just HOB the returns (easier! but breaks the rimless look). The horizontal spacing isn't set yet. The return weir bottom is currently set at 0.9" from the top of the tank, realistically the flowing water would be 0.7" or so.
I also have some Soss hinges on hand, as well as the router template. I'm going to test mounting the hinges into some scrap lumber first. I really love the motion though. Once I settle on the front door setup, I'll finally get to ordering the (significantly over specified and overbuilt) 8020.
OP
OP
Light holder concept: coupling 8020 25mm profile to MakerBeam 10mm black anodize profile, with just sinking an M6 bolt through to the end of the 8020:
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OP
OP
Light concept 1. I may flatten these and switch to a blower-type fan to reduce height. The standard 80mm fan and 3.5" HSUSA extrusion is a bit... tall. Note that the lights would be boxed in, likely in black acrylic.
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