Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?

taricha

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That was my thoughts as well. Changing out carbon immediately had a positive impact. What ever it was. It killed absolutely everything that was single called . The tank walls and rocks and bottom are spotless. Honestly other than the corals being white, tank has never looked better.

I will be sending in an icp test to check to see if any heavy metals or something detectable leached from the container. Whatever it was , if any , in lower doses could be a Dino treatment? Doubtful but worth a shot.
Whatever happened, didn't just kill a buuunch of stuff - it must have lysed a LOT of cells to free that much PO4 on a short time scale. Just don't see how low temp does that.

I didn’t think diatoms moved? These are scooting around. If that’s what they are, I’ll take it! My rodi is 7 months old and tests zero tds. I guess some of the frozen food additives that I use could be adding silicates?
diatoms do slide around, and these are def not dinos. :)
 

revhtree

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What’s the most cost effective microscope for identifying dinos?
 

reeferfoxx

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What’s the most cost effective microscope for identifying dinos?
A lot of us have been using the $10 toy scope from Amazon. It comes with plastic slides but you should get a small pack of glass slides. Then we do the tedious cell phone to scope for pictures. The $80 scopes are better and I think some have cell phone mounts for better pictures.
 

revhtree

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A lot of us have been using the $10 toy scope from Amazon. It comes with plastic slides but you should get a small pack of glass slides. Then we do the tedious cell phone to scope for pictures. The $80 scopes are better and I think some have cell phone mounts for better pictures.

Can you link me to the $80ish ones?
 

Jolanta

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I had some brown strings on my outlet and I got scared its ostreopsis again
4be93b9564d9c1d979fb587d766d9139.jpg

But I took few samples and those are the tiny movement less things ( chrysophyta?)
b8e068e0696a26f08c4fa1b5a4219d29.jpg
f147402282c0550da3963632c267cbd3.jpg

I couldnt find any ostreopsis cell under the scope :)
My bit of sand I put few days ago just to try stays white like a snow
dd1aced50c707d2d9dd171a1e577fb97.jpg

On tusday 4 small fish arrives for my nano to keep nutrients in a good level and hope it want need adding nitrate any more, my phosphate never go down 0.05.
Greetings from Mexico and I wish you all dino free tanks.
 

reeferfoxx

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taricha

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The color variation in those samples looks a lot like what I observed in my GSP going through dosing. My NO3 shot up over night from 0 ppm to 16 - 32 ppm on my RS kit. The PO4 took over a week to register once dosing started, and I eventually had to dose 22 mL of SeaChem Phosphorus a night for my 39 total gallon system just to have something measurable the next day. I believe that means it was more PO4 limited than NO3 limited.

The PE on the GSP was improved overnight after the first night of dosing. I started both at the same time. But after about a week, I noticed the green color was slightly faded. Now that PO4 has been holding throughout a 24 hour period for over a week I am seeing the more rich green color returning to the GSP.

It looks like I went from a LN/LP to a HN/LP and finally to a HN/HP condition. It also looks like the response rate of GSP to dosing nutrients is about a week. Looking at those polyp pictures, the top ones (HN/HP) look like they have the most PE/growth and the best coloration to me. The bottom ones look browned out. Maybe we should tell people with browned out corals to check their NO3 and dose accordingly?
Yep. I think there's more than a couple people in here that this concept applies to.
And I agree with you but I'll say Coral health and coloration is a big enough rabbithole to swallow this entire thread, so let's not :)
For high quality info and scientific approach to this topic: Dana Riddle's thread Light, Alkalinity, Nutrients is where I'd point.

@taricha

Awhile back I reported of having a tiny group of dinos not common for the purpose of the thread
I can't find pics or your earlier reference to them. Linky help?

Can you link me to the $80ish ones?
everything here in the $60-90 range is great. Sturdy metal body, quality glass optics, plenty of magnification. Very similar to the discarded HS sci lab scopes I use.
http://www.amscope.com/student-micr...i_category=1127&manufacturer=1623&order=price
 

reeferfoxx

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I can't find pics or your earlier reference to them. Linky help?
Sorry, they were too small for a picture. At least with my $10 scope. I had described them as 1/20th-1/50th the size of coolia and fast moving. You described them as some type of predator due to it's fast movement. That is all I can say about it. No nutrient reduction from them, just annoying to say the least. And now they are gone lol. So if I wanted to try and get something out of the scope, I'm unable to. :rolleyes:

Now if anyone else has these with a better scope that might help.
 

reeferfoxx

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Bebow

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How is the flow rate through these? I got a 5 micron sock but the flow through it is too slow to be of any practical value. It takes over a minute to let the water drain through it. This would drastically increase the time it takes me to siphon out the dinos.

Also, aren't you dosing Si too? I just started myself so I'm wondering if have noticed anything yet.



Lipid bodies?! :eek: Aww, the corals are getting fat. ;Joyful Never knew that could happen.

The color variation in those samples looks a lot like what I observed in my GSP going through dosing. My NO3 shot up over night from 0 ppm to 16 - 32 ppm on my RS kit. The PO4 took over a week to register once dosing started, and I eventually had to dose 22 mL of SeaChem Phosphorus a night for my 39 total gallon system just to have something measurable the next day. I believe that means it was more PO4 limited than NO3 limited.

The PE on the GSP was improved overnight after the first night of dosing. I started both at the same time. But after about a week, I noticed the green color was slightly faded. Now that PO4 has been holding throughout a 24 hour period for over a week I am seeing the more rich green color returning to the GSP.

It looks like I went from a LN/LP to a HN/LP and finally to a HN/HP condition. It also looks like the response rate of GSP to dosing nutrients is about a week. Looking at those polyp pictures, the top ones (HN/HP) look like they have the most PE/growth and the best coloration to me. The bottom ones look browned out. Maybe we should tell people with browned out corals to check their NO3 and dose accordingly?



Completely ineffective at all unless the micron rating is at least as small as 10. I don't think floss gets that small. Check out the micron sock post I quoted above.

Update on my dinos. Weekly growth rate not as bad as it was last week. Keeping NO3 between 8 - 13 ppm on the RS kit. PO4 maxed out the ULR so backed off of dosing. Rate of NO3 seems to be increasing. Used to be able to go three days between dosing and it would only drop to 4 - 8 ppm. So I decreased testing to once every three days. But now it will bottom out. Will need to increase test rate to daily again.

Si finally arrived and I did first dose last night to try and raise it 1 ppm. Still wondering why some people like myself get dinos when I always had lots of diversity and GHA. Maybe bottoming out is more critical?
You are exactly right about the flow rate being to slow, that’s why I siphon into a 35 gallon Brute first then use a small pump to return the water through the sock. Even then I have to raise the sock up so it won’t overflow.
 

Bret Brinkmann

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@Jolanta - Great to see you tank and corals doing so well. You mentioned you had an 1800 lph (475.5 gph) pump for yours, which is effective. What size tank do you have?

You are exactly right about the flow rate being to slow, that’s why I siphon into a 35 gallon Brute first then use a small pump to return the water through the sock. Even then I have to raise the sock up so it won’t overflow.

So basically, if you go down to 5 microns or less, then expect flow rates to choke off significantly. :(
 

Jolanta

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@Jolanta - Great to see you tank and corals doing so well. You mentioned you had an 1800 lph (475.5 gph) pump for yours, which is effective. What size tank do you have?



So basically, if you go down to 5 microns or less, then expect flow rates to choke off significantly. :(
Yes now I have instaled 1800l\h pump couse it was one I already had. My tank is 30 gallon with maybe 15 galon sump.
 

Beardo

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I'm gonna say prorocentrum...
20180209_194111.jpg

Those indentations in the front indicate it's likely this guy - prorocentrum...
proro-stock.jpg


versus this guy - Large Cell amphidinium - with his "tongue" - sometimes recessed and only appearing as a double-notch
Amphi-stock.jpg


I dunno if we need to up our scope recommendations or I'm going blind or what, but distinguishing those two is really hard at the level of detail in @johnsamm7 pics/vids.
Complicating it, they move in almost exactly the same way on video too. Amphidinium are a little smoother gliders, and look like they are actually going somewhere, prorocentrum look slightly more like they are lost.
Anyway, that's just for those curious as to what we're looking at for an ID.

As far as treatment for these proros - follow the standard things recommended for the thread.


Yes, I would run UV to target the small-cell guys even if it doesn't hit the Large Cell guys. In addition to your reasoning that I agree with, the small cell guys tend to be more often associated with toxins, and their removal might create opportunity for grazer populations to increase - very important vs Large Cell Amphidinium
Sorry, they were too small for a picture. At least with my $10 scope. I had described them as 1/20th-1/50th the size of coolia and fast moving. You described them as some type of predator due to it's fast movement. That is all I can say about it. No nutrient reduction from them, just annoying to say the least. And now they are gone lol. So if I wanted to try and get something out of the scope, I'm unable to. :rolleyes:

Now if anyone else has these with a better scope that might help.
What was their movement like? Just zipping around or spinning is circles?
 

reeferfoxx

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Here are a couple of vids of some in my tank that fit the description. I never positively identified but believe possibly gyrodinium/gymnodinium.




No, mine looked more tear or sesame seed shaped but really really tiny. It's hard to say. Almost like ostreopsis but without the white tip and more translucent.
 

reeferfoxx

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@Beardo And in comparison to the nematodes in your video they are much smaller than the ones you recorded. They also don't swim nearly as fast.
 

Beardo

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@Beardo And in comparison to the nematodes in your video they are much smaller than the ones you recorded. They also don't swim nearly as fast.
I estimated these to be around 10 micron based on comparisons to small cell amphidinium. The ones your mention must be very tiny.
 
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