Dany's frag tank build

[DanyL]

Hi all, time to build a Frag Tank!

But first - I never really properly introduced myself and my journey on r2r before,
and I figured it would be a great opportunity to do so now, in my first build thread.
It is quite long though, so if you wish to skip to the current build thread details, start reading from the "16 years later" paragraph.

So around 16 years ago I was in a pet store with my father and dragged him to look at this stunning looking tank.
This was the Red Sea Max 130D, and it had nice looking corals in it, with clownfish and what not.
I was mesmerized by it and every time we were there we went to look at it once more, it was beautiful.

At that time my father and I kept a planted fresh water tank, which was an upgrade to my father's father-son fish-only hobby when he was a child himself, so naturally this was passed onto to me as well. Although my father kept saying saltwater is very difficult and pricy to maintain, he started reading more about it, and found out about this new "nano" reef thing trend that was fairly new back then, and some Israeli's figuring on Russian forums showed how they setup their tanks with diluted seawater and live rocks from the Mediterranean Sea, which really is on our backyard and made a budget setup possible.

My birthday was coming up, and so it began - We got the Red Sea Max 130D, Live rocks from the Mediterranean and doing water changes with diluted seawater.
Though we did wait for the ugly phase to kick in, it never did and we ended up skipping the cycle completely thanks to the fact that we used both fresh live rocks and seawater.
While not everything was perfect, we slowly caught up and learned how to maintain the system, to DIY supplements, and frag corals, and were able to keep pretty much everything, from softies to SPS.

[Unfortunetly, I couldn't find any picture of our original tank, but when I do I'll make sure to attach it here]

4 years went by and we were moving into a new place. We had more space and already gained some experience keeping a reef - so naturally we looked for an upgrade.
The Red Sea Max S series was just launched and since we really liked the whole "package" idea, we placed an order for the S-500 model, in fact, it was so new that we were the second to order one in Israel. This was a big upgrade from our previous system, it had sump, proper ATO, better lightning (this was still in the T5 era) and a sleek new design.
We got second hand Indonesian live rocks this time around although we kept doing water changes with diluted seawater, and while we theoretically had a lot more space - everything was so overgrown that we barely fitted our corals from the old system within the new one. Growth exploded and by the end our alk consumption was so high others thought our daily consumption was the amount we use in a month. Since we didn't have much space, we used a tiny compartment in the sump to hold frags until they healed, then took them out to our LFS for credit every few months.

(Pic below was before selling it, after we took apart quite a few colonies in preparation to the next upgrade)

9 years later and we went through yet another upgrade, the last one - this time around it was mainly because our tank already started to show its age and figured the silicon wouldn't hold up for another 10 years, getting T5 replacements became difficult in our area, and we didn't have enough flow due to sheer amount of overgrown corals in the tank.
While we were this close to purchase a Reefer 750XXL, design problems started to pop up with this model and we decided against it.
After looking at our options we finally settled with a slightly more expensive system, the Aqua Center D180.
This is a 1.8 meters (~6 feet) long 780 liter (~206 gallon) rimless system manufactured in china by a local company (which went international in the last Interzoo conference). and the quality is just phenomenal, stand is built from heavy duty 3030 aluminum extrusions, the tank was designed similarly to the Red Sea S series with the ATO on the back and made with 19mm thick ultra clear glass, return is splitted across with 4 nozzles, and compared to the Red Sea Max S-500 we had previously it also came with a large and comfortable sump with a big fuge compartment we use to hold frags. We also switched to LEDs (4 ReeFi Uno over the display, and 1 over the "frag compartment"), a roller mat (BM ARF-L-G1), better wave makers (2XReefWave 45 + 2 ALW 10W), quieter return pump (Maxspect Jump), better chiller (Teco Tk-2000) and an insane skimmer (Ukrainian A&C).

16 Years Later
Fast forward to now, close to 2 years after our last upgrade, and we struggle to keep up.
While our "frag compartment" in the sump is not tiny (35x75 cm - 13.78x29.53 inches), corals simply out grow our ability to keep them from touching each other, and by the time we get rid of the frags we have, we already need to take apart 2 or 3 more colonies and trim a few more.

(Typically overloaded "frag compartment")

So in the past year or so we were thinking about this new frag tank system to counterpart the growth rate and give ourself more space than we need because it'll probably get used over time. Unlike all our previous systems, this time around we decided to go with a custom built system, this is because unlike the US market which is saturated with tanks and sumps of all kinds and sizes, including purposely manufactured frag tanks, all we have here is a Neptunian frag tank which didn't meet the dimensions we needed and Cade which also didn't fit all our requirements, had an unknown delivery date because it needs to get imported and above all - a price tag that was close to twice as high as in other parts of the world (pretty much like everything else in the hobby over here, so not surprising).

We drew a lot of inspiration designing the frag tank from our current tank, from a back compartment for ATO and overflow, removable overflow baffles and up to the aluminum extrusion based stand, although we also had another thing to keep in mind - this system is planned to become a Peninsula-Lagoon tank in the future, so it was designed as a slightly taller (40cm - 16 inch), separated system and an open frame with the intention to skin it later on.

It was also originally designed and budgeted as a 90cm (3 feet) system, but due to the size of the equipment we plan to use (and reuse from previous systems), we ended up making it bigger and therefore eating some of the budget, so we had to re-prioritize things around and put some stuff on hold like adding a second light for full coverage, better (or rather space saving) dosing pumps, DIY power distribution, DIY PH and KH tests, kalk reactor, in-line phyto reactor and more, so these things will get added over time, keep that in mind.

System Dimensions:
> Frag Tank ------ 117x64x40 cm | 46x25x16 inches
> Sump ------------ 62x52x42 cm | 25x21x17 inches

Equipment:
> Light --------------- ReeFi Uno 2 Pro
> Skimmer --------- Nyos Quantum 160
> Chiller ------------- Hailea 300
> Return Pump --- Jebao ADP-6500
> Wave Makers --- 3 ALW-10W (1 of which will most likely get switched with the gyre we have now in the current "frag compartment")
> Roller Mat -------- ARF-L-G2
> Dosing Pumps -- 4-head Kamoer and 3-head Jebao (for DIY 3-part + Red Sea trace elements).
> ATO ----------------- Gravity fed


I need to take a break because this was way longer than I thought it would, but I hope it'll make an interesting reading for others.
In the next few posts I'll start covering the build itself, which is already in process and going well so far.

 

[Peace River]

Thanks for sharing and congratulations on the new adventure!!!

 

[Zach B]

Beautiful tank and story

 

[DanyL]

So 2 weeks ago we finally received the frag tank and sump!

As mentioned earlier, the design of the tank is very similar to the current one we have, which resembles the the Red Sea Max S-series but in a rimless fashion - with a back/side wall divided into 2 sections, one for the overflow area and the other for a gravity ATO.

Going custom with an aquarium in Israel is quite a tedious task, because there aren't many builders around, and out of the 3 popular ones 1 is unreliable and can go missing for months after receiving a deposit, the other while was responsive at first, went completely silent when I sent him the plans. The third, well he's considered "the best in class" - but he's also twice as pricy, geographically far away, and while his quality is considered high, many complain about the fine details. Since the 2 others weren't up to the task we ended up going with the 3rd, and it wasn't all as smooth as we wished it would be, although it came out nicely after all.

First, there were 2 things he told us he would either not do at all, like using black glass (he used glass + black plexiglass instead, which I dislike since it'll get damaged overtime), or would be too expensive to make, like a raised bottom for the overflow area, to make bulkheads sit "inside" the the tank, so that we won't need to consider tight tolerances, or even bother to find removable bulkheads to be able to sit the tank on a flat surface when we decide to take it apart in the future (Like I mentioned in the previous post - it is planned to be transformed into a lagoon in the future), but he assured us he'll provide removable bulkheads which would make this process easy without the need to overcomplicate the build, we agreed.

While still in his shop he sent us a picture of the progress - we were mainly concerned about the tolerances, since the frame is slightly smaller than the tank, and the bulkheads sit right in the corner so they need to fit exactly within these tight tolerances.

We asked for measurements and It seemed like he nailed it, however we noticed 2 other problems:

• We asked to leave a cutout with a bit of glass from both sides for the overflow baffle, so that we could design and 3d print a removable one, instead he cut the regular, non removable baffle as part of the glued plexiglass. When we mentioned this, he removed it but now we only have one side to comfortably attach to.
• The return line was supposed to go from the bottom, through the back/side wall - however, no hole was made for it, and since there is a baffle between the overflow and the ATO with a hole right next to it, there was no space left to move it and make room for another hole now, not to mention it wouldn't align with the bottom hole. He did manage to fix it by gluing a piece of glass and downsizing the overflow baffle. I didn't like it because now there is less space for water to flow into the overflow which means it'll be loader, but it'll work.

Anyway, A week later they were finally delivered:

Upon receiving the tank and sump we noticed they didn't make any effort whatsoever to clean it beforehand, they were full of dust and silicone smudges which hindered some minor defects in the glass (not really noticeable, and expected, much like in mass produced tanks we owned), and of course, even though we agreed he would provide the bulkheads they weren't supplied, and he claims they weren't considered in the final price either.

There was also a miscommunication when we explicitly asked not to glue styrofoam at the bottom because we planned to use a rubber instead, however he thought we were talking about the frag tank itself, excluding the sump.
We thought about removing it, but figured it isn't a big deal after all and decided to use it as is.

Yet another thing we noticed was the vinyl applied at the bottom which wasn't perfectly glued.

I'm not sure how things work overseas, but after talking with other local reefers, these are typical problems to encounter here when going custom.

Overall, I am satisfied with the end result and it does look good, the glass is ultra clear and all my other requirements were fulfilled, but for the money paid, I obviously expected more attention to details.

 

[DanyL]

Time to build the frame!

As I already mentioned, the stand frame was designed with modular aluminum profiles, since they are easy to design and build with, easily extendable, t, sturdy, they're available in stock pretty much everywhere, and can withstand saltwater.

The only downside of using them is the price - it cost me more than twice than a regular stand made of steel and wood built by a professional - and that's compared to the frame alone.
But they're so darn comfortable to work with that once you used them, there is no going back.

I designed the frame based on our current system which was made from 3030 profiles, but also drew inspiration from other builds on r2r, and finally used the software provided by Item to sketch a model and then generate a nice PDF with detailed BOM and instructions.

Although I did use Item's software for the design process, I didn't like the idea of using their profiles - this is because their profiles aren't standard EU profiles, but come with a 1 size down slots, which in my case was a problem since I already had all the angles, brackets and screws purchased beforehand, and they generally less available in my area.

So after some research, I did find multiple suppliers for EU standard profiles, settled on a geographically close place and placed an order.

2 weeks later and they finally arrived:

Since I personally designed the frame and had an exact BOM list with generated instructions, the assembly process was straight forward - like a Lego for adults

While I used the regular 90 degree angles in most places, I opted to use an L-shape fastener for the 2 front profiles in the middle wall to allow easy access for the sump and chiller. This wall will later on be partially covered with some black foam we never used on our main system.

And finally, since I only needed 8 end caps, I figured I'll just 3D print them - and it came out pretty nice

One thing that I forgot to order though were angle covers, Back when we built our main system I 3D printed some from rubber (TPE), and it worked great, however - printing with TPE is tediously slow, and I'll need to print around 100 of them. So, I'll try and see if I can get them locally, if not I'll probably go on and print them after all.

That's it for now!

 

[DanyL]

Table top, bottom and shelf

Half year ago when this project has started to materialize, we were given a heavy duty, industrial sliding door made of really tough and heavy plastic. These were 2 large 1.8 meters by 85 cm (~6 feet by 33.46 inches) sheets, one is 12mm (0.47 inches) thick, and the other is 10mm (0.39 inches), each weighted around 80-90 kilograms (176.37 to 198.42 pounds).

The benefit of using it compared to plywood is that it wouldn't deform under weight, nor will it get damaged by saltwater - once installed its basically there forever.

We didn't think much of it until recently, when we had to cut it.
We talked to our friend who gave us these sheets of plastic since he took one for himself for the very same purpose, which is when we found out that a jigsaw won't cut it, nor is a regular wood working table saw.
In fact he said he broke a dozen of jigsaw blades trying to cut it along.

We were really close to giving up on this material, and there is a whole story of how we ended up in a marble cutting shop.. but that's what did the trick!

Anyway, here are the plans we made for the table top:

For the bottom we split the sheet into 2 parts, and had to account for all the angles holding up the frame, which was a little tedious to plan for and cut

Since all cables will go through the middle divider in the frame, we had to account for it as well and make a cutout in the shelf. While the plans were correct, we later on realized it turned out to be too high and were able modified it with a hand saw to carefully cut a small piece to mount it a little lower (you'll see this later on in this post)

And here it is in the marble cutting shop, stone cutting tools cut through it like it was butter lol

Although the cutouts aren't perfect, the edges turned out to be smooth and esthetic

And here are the final results

After mounting everything

Next thing would be gluing a rubber on top and cut it, which we're still not sure how to do cleanly - any advice here is welcomed!

 

[DanyL]

Since my sister together with my infant niece are staying with us on their visit from the US, it was hard to find a good time to apply the adhesive and glue the rubber to the table top, but we finally did it.

Although we tried to purchase Neoprene rubber, the only one that was in stock was a super high grade which cost around 250$, and normal grade Neoprene was unfortunately not easily available. Instead, we ended up using NBR which from what we were told should be enough for our purposes.

As for the glue, after consulting we finally settled on using a contact adhesive, which should be able to glue pretty much any type of plastics to each other, including different types of rubber.
Specifically, we used "Hercules Contact Adhesive Super 103" which AFAIK is a locally made, so if any Israeli folks are lurking here (and there are quite a few of them) - I'll report back on how good or bad it was, but so far it seems to be fine.

First we cleaned and degreased both surfaces

Than we used a brush to apply the adhesive to both surfaces and let it sit for 20-30 minutes to dry before attaching them to each other

And finally, we placed the table top over the rubber, used a rubber hammer across the surfaces to make a tight contact and then used the frame itself to apply a heavy and evenly distributed force on top

What's left is to let it dry overnight and tomorrow we'll try our luck cutting the rubber along the outline of the table top and hopefully we'll be able to make straight and clean lines.

Another progress I made was with the overflow baffle, as I mentioned earlier - I purposely asked to leave space for a custom detachable overflow baffle, and I finally had some time to design one in fusion 360, it's fully parametric so I should be able to tweak the tolerances fairly easily and adjust to fit with a few test prints.

That's it for today!

 

[DanyL]

So today I woke up and looked how well the adhesive worked - and while most areas were well attached, the areas where we did not apply glue on the rubber side were completely loose.
So I reapplied the adhesive in these areas and let it sit, by evening it was dry and well attached and we could finally cut it to the shape of the table top.

We first tried to cut the back side (and the left side, where the cutout is located), we went through the rubber on one go and the results were.. well, not so straight.
So our next try was on the cutout, where we tried to go through each cut twice - first pass to "mark" the line as straight as possible and the second one to complete it and the results were a lot better, so we went through and cut everything else using this method.

While it may seem like the lines aren't straight, this is just because we purposely refrained from applying the glue on the far edges because we were afraid the glue will come out and be seen, and thus the rubber somewhat wobbles in these areas. However the cuts are straight, and once we'll place the tank over it it'll straighten up and will look even.

I don't know how, but one thing we forgot to do is to drill holes in the table top before gluing the rubber, so we'll need to be a bit more carful now. But first, I need to print some mounting brackets, which is planned to be done tomorrow, after which we'll also prepare the inner black foam walls and then, finally put the tank and sump in place and start plumbing.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

The stand is coming along nicely!!!

 

[DanyL]

The stand is coming along nicely!!!

Thank you! It's the first time I design anything like it and was a little worried the "industrial look" I was looking for will be a bit too rough, but I like it so far and I'm honestly surprised how well it comes out

 

[19Mateo83]

Your attention to detail is impressive. It is coming along very clean, neat and professional looking. I can’t wait to see it stocked full of frags!

 

[DanyL]

Yesterday we mounted the table top as well as the inner black foam walls.

To mount the table top I designed and printed 2 types of brackets - guiding brackets, and mounting brackets:

The guiding brackets are attached from the outside of the stand and perfectly align the slightly oversized table top, which allowed us to precisely mark the holes to drill and mount it in place

After drilling the holes we first tapped them with M5 threads, then proceed to finally mount it (be aware - bracket overload in front )

The inner side walls we use are made of some laminated black foam and were left overs from our main system where they should've been installed inside the dry side section of the stand, but because we used this extra space to mount some power bricks they were never used.

Since both systems use 3030 aluminum profiles, and have similar dimensions - after moving the back profile brackets on top, the cutouts were aligned perfectly with the new stand

But before mounting the walls, we had to slightly modify them to expose the profile rails, which will be later on used to mount additional equipment. We did the same with the inner walls inside the sump compartment on our main system too, which in hindsight served us more than we thought it would

Mounting the walls to the profiles was done using these plastic socket/screw combo, which are usually used to mount panels in cars and nicely blend with the black color of the walls

And the final result

 

[DanyL]

Your attention to detail is impressive. It is coming along very clean, neat and professional looking. I can’t wait to see it stocked full of frags!

Me neither! Thank you for the compliments

 

[officialreefbros]

Awesome build!!

 

[DanyL]

Awesome build!!

Thanks!

 

[DanyL]

A small update from today.

We applied a black background to the back of the sump and finally put it in place, which wasn't exactly the plan, but it came out nicely.

The story behind it is somewhat long (go to TL'DR for a shorter version), but basically the plan was to use a wallpaper (like literally - the one you put on walls) to cover the right side of the peninsula because for the time being, it'll have a wall behind it which would look somewhat odd. The reason we used a wallpaper rather than a normal Vinyl is because we wanted to be able to remove it easily later on, and by accident we found out that wallpapers not only look nice but also hold well on glass and at the same time can be be easily peeled away without leaving any marks behind, even years after. So when the tank will be used as a peninsula in the future - we'll still have a spotless glass to see through without much effort.

With our main system we got the help of our friends at the LFS, which applied it for us.
But this time around we opted to do it ourselves, and well - we failed.

You see, we followed exactly what they did last time, however, instead of a smooth looking surface on the inside we had weird looking marks, not even bubbles, because we removed them.
So we figured we would to practice on a smaller scale first, and apply a background to our sump.

The first time applying the wallpaper to the sump, while it was considerably better - it still had the very same marks, just less of them, so we tried again and on the second try we finally found the culprit.
Apparently it was the mop we used to push the bubbles out and smooth the surface with, just like our friends from the LFS did, only that our mop lost its shape over the years, and thus caused the marks to appear.

While we didn't have another mop to use, nor anymore wallpaper left to spend on a third try, we were able to smooth it enough to be acceptable, in fact - I like the result so much I'm glad we went through this, because I wouldn't have thought to do this otherwise.

TL;DR You can use wallpapers (those that go on walls) as an easy to remove background.
We tried to apply it on the tank and failed, so we decided to practice with our sump and found out that the culprit was the mop we used to push out the bubbles that lost its shape, so now we have a sump with a nice black background.

That's the wallpaper we used - we actually had to search all over the place, than we found one in an art store of all places. Interesting thing was that unlike the one we got ~2 years ago for 17.5$, this one cost us only 2.7$, it's the very same size and company and moreover the store is literally 5 minutes away from home, not 20 minutes drive for each direction.

I didn't take pictures of the process itself besides this one where I clean the glass, but the process is fairly simple - clean the glass with windex, spray both surfaces with water and a tiny bit of dish detergent until they're dripping wet, and than finally apply the wallpaper - because both surfaces are wet you can move the wallpaper around and perfectly align it on 2 sides, then use sharp knife (art or surgeon knife works best) to carefully cut the other 2 edges, and finally use a properly shaped mop and start smoothing the surface until all bubbles disappear.

And here's the final result

If you wonder why the sump is so high - that was actually a last minute change to accommodate the extra water when the return pump is turned off, because the right side of the stand will be occupied by the chiller we didn't have much choice but to increase the height.

However, I somewhat missed the fact that I'll have less usable space above it, which now presents a problem with the dosing containers that prevent me to mount the dosing pumps I currently have above them.
My design for the future DIY dosing pumps still fits perfectly within the space, but it'll some take time until I have the budget and time to invest in it, so I'll have to find a temporary solution until then.

Also, for those who wonder - yes, the styrofoam drives me crazy, it doesn't look good at all but is here to stay.
I hope that once the sump will be filled with equipment it'll be less noticeable.

Well, that's it for now - hopefully tomorrow the wallpaper will be perfectly applied to the tank, with no weird marks or any alignment issues!

 

[DanyL]

I know it's been a month since the last update, but I had a lot to do and not much time to document it properly.
Not everything is done yet, but the tank is up and running for a few weeks now with live rocks, a fish, quite a few simple coral frags and even a few Mangrooves.

I did take pictures of my progress along the way to be able to document everything later on, and I'll start to retroactively post my progress here now. I'll keep the timeline intact and split the it to multiple posts with sections to make it easier for you to read (and, well.. for me to write).

So where were we?

The wallpaper
I admit it was literally a nightmare.

We tried to put it 2 more times, the first time we messed up and it was our own fault.
However the second time it was spot on - cleanest application you'll ever see (!) and we were really happy with the result. We found the problem only the day after though, when the glue of the wallpaper was set and started to change it's colors.

Admittedly I didn't have much more time to spend as my schedule was quite tight, so using a wallpaper was off the table and I began to search for a black vinyl with the correct dimensions to cover the frag tank. I already knew it'll be difficult to find anything like it in my area because a couple of weeks earlier I already tried to find one for another purpose.
I still tried my best though, but the only thing even close to that was far away from home and for a whopping 360$ for 50 meters (164 foot) roll - so it wasn't it.

Well, plan B (or C?) it is.. An idea I wasn't really happy with, but given my options I was ready to try it out.
I had a 31cm (1 foot) wide vinyl laying around this whole time, granted - it's too short, but what if I apply it in 2 parts?
The lower part of the frag tank will not be seen anyway once I put the frag rack in, and as much as I would like this to be perfect - in reality, it should be enough for my purpose.

So off we went to apply a 31cm vinyl to a 40cm frag tank, in 2 parts 3 parts.
The roll edges weren't cut completely straight which made it difficult to align one part to another, so we actually added a third part as a second layer above the seam, and honestly, the results were quite pleasing - you would have to look really closely and know about it to actually notice the tiny, thin seam between the parts.
I wasn't sure how it would look with water filled in though, but as mentioned - the lower part of the frag tank shouldn't be visible after putting in the frag rack, so I wasn't worried too much about it.

Overflow weir
While the tank is still on the dolly and easily accessible, we figured it would be the best time to install the overflow weir/baffle.

As mentioned earlier, I asked the builder to leave space for a custom made, removable weir that I will design, 3D print and glue myself later on.

I already had the general design ready and after a couple of test prints and modifications I was ready to print the real deal. I admit this process was a bit frustrating due to the moving parts and PETG being a bit hard to work with, and while I knew using supports would require quite some cleaning afterwards, the results were a lot better than doing it otherwise.

Once I had the weir cleaned up and sliding nicely, I moved on to glue it with a black aquarium silicone.
I'm not sure if its available outside of Israel, but if anyone is interested - I used Hercules CF-220 for this purpose.

To prevent any smudges, I first covered the outside area of the cutout with some painting tape, then moved on to apply the glue and hold everything in place with a clamp.

Lift off
While we were waiting for the silicone to set we figured we had no more obligations to finally lift the tank and put it on the stand.

It's a somewhat uncomfortable location and my Father and I weren't sure if we'll be able to do so ourselves, but we decided to give it a try and it ended up being not as bad as we thought it would be.
Perfectly aligning the tank to the table top was probably the most tedious part of it all, and it went well.

Does it fit?
I could now finally try and see if the drain/return holes are aligned to the table top cutout and the sump.

But first I need to cut the vinyl at the bottom to expose it.
At first I tried to cut it in circle but I realized it would be impossible for me to comfortably reach it in this tight space, so I cut a big square instead and then slowly pealed it off.

There is a whole story how I ended up purchasing these bulkheads, but it's too long and boring to document it lol
These are made by Flowcolor/Sanking and have a record/fitting right under them which is nice because it allows me save some space beneath the tank. But most imp[ortantly - They are removable in a way that even after gluing both sides still allows me to easily take it apart.

Fortunately, and even though it's really, really tight - everything fit nicely in place.

Redoing the Sump
While I wasn't as concerned about the look of the wallpaper on the sump, I realized that it doesn't look as bad because it simply didn't get any light to illuminate the imperfections, so once I put light above the sump it'll look as bad as the frag tank looked with the wallpaper.

Since our method of applying a short vinyl worked well enough, I decided to redo the sump as well, only this time I would do the sides as well - and it turned out really nicely.

 

[DanyL]

I’ll be in Reef-A-Palooza Orlando today and tomorrow if anyone wants to meet up!

I thought I would manage to post everything before my vacation, but unfortunately I was out of time.

 

[ReefEco]

Killer frag tank build! If you are ever in need of maximizing your grow out space, here's a great way to add real estate on your back wall : )

 

[Miami Reef]

Following this masterpiece! Thank you for sharing your story from a whopping 16 year span! This aquarium is outstanding, and we need more update photos.

It’s ROTM worthy!