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I just pulled my Curve 7 out after fighting it for a year. Replaced it with a Deltec just 3 days ago. Had it dialed in better in 5 minutes than I ever was able to get my BM working.Skimmer was on overnight. I have a BM Curve 7 such a pain in the *** to dial in. There was 1/4" of light brown stuff in there. Also my Nitrites jumped up to 2.0PPM last night.
Not sure if the is the place for the question - but in regards to cycling a QT/observation tank that I was going to keep running - I use seeded sponge filters, some bio media, and DT water to help cycle the QT tank - and while it's running and I'm doing the water changes - do I want to squeeze out the sponge in the tank water?
I do and there a good amount of brown that comes out. I read about ammonia factories and worry the sponge is a growing source of ammonia if not cleaned out.
Or am I just making my life harder by restarting whatever good stuff I had in that sponge?
I squeeze mine out every few days under warm tap water. Never caused a problem. The bacteria will stick to the sponge and won't rinse out. As long as you don't dry them out, cook them, or freeze them you should be good.Not sure if the is the place for the question - but in regards to cycling a QT/observation tank that I was going to keep running - I use seeded sponge filters, some bio media, and DT water to help cycle the QT tank - and while it's running and I'm doing the water changes - do I want to squeeze out the sponge in the tank water?
I do and there a good amount of brown that comes out. I read about ammonia factories and worry the sponge is a growing source of ammonia if not cleaned out.
Or am I just making my life harder by restarting whatever good stuff I had in that sponge?
As far as I am aware, 76 days will cover pretty much everything. There are some fish pathogens that going fallow will not rid from your tank but I don't know of any reason to go more than 76 days.Was just thinking, and this might be more appropriate in the “disease” forum, but if I wanted to use live rock to help cycling along - but worry about any disease hitchhikers (i.e. ick) - is ick with a 72 day fallow the longest to wait for an “all clear” of anything that could be on the rocks before adding QT’d fishes? Are there other diseases to worry about that could last longer?
Wait a little longer. Odds are your nitrate isn't that high because you still have nitrite. Shouldn't be long now.So I'm cycling another tank and my ammonia is almost 0 my no is 1.0 and no3 is 80 and I cannot for the life of me remember what to do to remedy this situation
I would never risk my system on a single GFCI, which is why my current system uses 4 of them. My new system will be more complex so I am going down to 2 GFCI's. I will plug a light into each of them so I know if one has tripped.
Love the idea of using a PLC and I almost went that route. Then I realized that I'm still a bit burnt out from years of automation programming at work and I went with an Apex for my first build. Trying a GHL on my new one.
Thanks for the adviceWait a little longer. Odds are your nitrate isn't that high because you still have nitrite. Shouldn't be long now.
When I put in my tank, I was worried about overloading the circuit so added a second circuit. I have my two relay boxes for my controller split, each plugged into a GFCI outlet on each circuit. One box has my Gyre pumps for circulation, and the other has my main pump. They each also have a heater. That way, I still have water movement and a heater if I trip a GFCI outlet.
I would run an ammonia test to make sure. As long as the rocks didn't completely dry out they probably had a good base of bacteria in them. An ammonia test is a quick easy way to make sure the system is safe for fish. Costs a lot less than replacing a fish because you put it in too early.Hello I have been reefing for about a year know. I started with a 10 gallon and an opportunity came for me to get a whole 75 gallon system for free. I jumped on it and started this new upgrade. Here is the run down! The guy that gave me the system had the rock out didn’t leave it in the water. Sand was left in a bucket with very lil water.(both water and sand were left out of a proper system for about 2 weeks). So I set up the tank and added 3/4 of dr Tim’s one and only a week later added the rest. First test 2ppm ammonia, 0 nitrite, and 0 nitrate. Next day ammonia goes to 1 ppm nitrite and nitrate stay at 0, stay like this for about a week. The first change ammonia is at .5 ppm nitrite and nitrate stay at 0. Next day( today) everything is at 0. So the golden question is is my tank cycled or should I run an ammonia test to find out!
It is very possible to get false positives from nitrite tests. Since nitrites aren't a problem with saltwater systems don't worry about them too much. If you are processing 1ppm ammonia in a day you are ready to start slowly stocking your tank, provided you have everything else in order.Just an update on my tank. The bacteria bloom has been gone for a little over a week now. But for whatever reason my nitrites have been pegged at 1-2PPM for over 10 days. I added a 1PPM does of ammonia about 5 days ago and within 1 day the ammonia reading was zero. I also added Dr Times One and Only on the 13th. Last night nitrites are still pegged at 1PPM. I'm wondering if my API nitrite test kit is giving me false readings. Or maybe my cycle is stalled? Anyone have any experience with this?