Good deal. ThanksI would check nitrates and if they aren't too high there probably isn't a reason to do a water change.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Good deal. ThanksI would check nitrates and if they aren't too high there probably isn't a reason to do a water change.
I'm not as familiar with their live sand as I am with their live rock. If it is collected from the ocean and kept wet, like their rock, then yes. Most snails and hermit crabs can do quite well in a new system as long as ammonia dosing isn't used to test the cycle. The live sand will only improve things for them.Hi asked this question on a different forum on here ,thought I'd try it on this thread,thanks for all the great info,question,I'm going to add 50 lbs of Tampa Bay saltwater live sand to cycle a 100 gallon,do you think this would be sufficient to instantly cycle a new tank to the point where I could add a clean up crew pretty soon?.
Thanks,yes they're live sand is collected with their live rock,kept wet and shipped in sea water,figured 50 lbs would do a good job kicked starting the system.I'm not as familiar with their live sand as I am with their live rock. If it is collected from the ocean and kept wet, like their rock, then yes. Most snails and hermit crabs can do quite well in a new system as long as ammonia dosing isn't used to test the cycle. The live sand will only improve things for them.
It's not going to have the water flow that rock will, so I doubt that it will process ammonia as well as the rock, but for a CuC and a small fish or two? I think it will be just fine if you feed lightly.Thanks,yes they're live sand is collected with their live rock,kept wet and shipped in sea water,figured 50 lbs would do a good job kicked starting the system.
Ah interesting about the different flow with rock and sand,maybe I'll stick 10 lbs of their live rock in the sump,what fo you think?It's not going to have the water flow that rock will, so I doubt that it will process ammonia as well as the rock, but for a CuC and a small fish or two? I think it will be just fine if you feed lightly.
Might be a good idea just to provide a little insurance.Ah interesting about the different flow with rock and sand,maybe I'll stick 10 lbs of their live rock in the sump,what fo you think?
Dear all,
I cycled reef tank with One and only and with ammonium chloride.
Ammonium is 0, nitrites 0, nitrates between 50-100 (Salifert)
Here are pictures of aquarium.
Now is cca 4 weeks from beginning of cycling. There is live rock in it from some old aquarium.
What would you do? Change 80% of water and then add CUC and fish to eat algae
or make dark for 1 - 2 weeks to kill algae and then add fish?
lights are on since beginning, skimmer was for 1 week off at start of cycling
Today I will put macro algae in sump
Please suggest me what to do.
What test kit are you using for phosphate? I would expect it to drop after a 50% water change but then have it rebound back up.Hi again,
after that I made dark in aquarium for 1 week. A lot of algae went away, skimmer was working hard, I added Caulerpa to sump (it is growing well), I added some CuC (few hermits, snails), but since then Phosphate are at 0.25 and not dropping.
I do not have any fish in tank, I do not feed it, dead algae already went out, I made 50% water change but Phosphate does not drop. Nitrates are at 5-10.
should I wait for some time before I add GFO to lower phosphate to 0.1?
Rocks are a bit dirty and if I direct power head to them all tank become cloudy.
I am using Salifert test.What test kit are you using for phosphate? I would expect it to drop after a 50% water change but then have it rebound back up.
I feel the issue is the test kit. I don't think it is accurate enough to be of significant value unfortunately.I am using Salifert test.
It is also strange to me. It should drop because of macro algae and because RO-DI water- I tested also RO-DI water - result is 0 phoshate. I am using Aquaforest reef salt.
I think it’s widely excepted that a Hanna checker is the most accurate or at least the easiest-to-use test for phosphate. Last I checked they were about 50 bucks but well worth it for peace of mind. No color matching- they give you a digital readout. I would say you probably want the ULR or “ultra low range” phosphate checker. It will read levels up to and beyond toxic for corals, and down to .01ppm. Welcome to R2R!I am using Salifert test.
It is also strange to me. It should drop because of macro algae and because RO-DI water- I tested also RO-DI water - result is 0 phoshate. I am using Aquaforest reef salt.
One thing they don't show you, is that in addition to all the bottled bacteria and live sand they add, they also remove most of the fish right after they shoot the episode and the tank is stocked more slowly after they leave.No obviously they don’t show you everything. But they use a lot of live sand and nutriseawater for a reason. Cuts down on their build time. Plus I’m sure their paid to advertise it.
Yup that is true. Those giant tanks no way in hell. Some of the small ones they might get away with. But they also use a lot of artificial decoration aka no live rock on most their tanks. Equates to less bacteria. Still tho. Miss that show!!! Haha.One thing they don't show you, is that in addition to all the bottled bacteria and live sand they add, they also remove most of the fish right after they shoot the episode and the tank is stocked more slowly after they leave.
This is true... all questions I had setting up my first tank recently.I think a specific paragraph needs to be added to the initial post on how to maintain the cycled tank if no fish are to be added for a while (weeks or months). Example- people are cycling their rock in tubs months before their fish tank arrives. While there is a section talking about that you can’t kill off the nitrifying bacteria once established, there’s no statement on how to keep the population up while you wait for your tank...
does that mean ghost feeding? How often? How much? Just adding more ammonia? How frequently? The idea of course would be so that once the tank arrives you just add water and the rocks and you can go and start stocking fish.
I guess I didn't include anything about it because there isn't much reason to do anything.I think a specific paragraph needs to be added to the initial post on how to maintain the cycled tank if no fish are to be added for a while (weeks or months). Example- people are cycling their rock in tubs months before their fish tank arrives. While there is a section talking about that you can’t kill off the nitrifying bacteria once established, there’s no statement on how to keep the population up while you wait for your tank...
does that mean ghost feeding? How often? How much? Just adding more ammonia? How frequently? The idea of course would be so that once the tank arrives you just add water and the rocks and you can go and start stocking fish.
I guess I didn't include anything about it because there isn't much reason to do anything.
I would have almost no concerns with someone cycling rocks in a tub, moving them into their tank, filling it with water, and letting it sit untouched for a few months. As long as you don't dump in 8 fish and start feeding heavily no ghost feeding would be necessary imo.