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Broadfield's Red Sea Reefer 450 Build - OCD Inspired... Going Back To a Reef
- Build Thread
- Thread starter Broadfield
- Start date
Thank you... Question though, wouldn't the adhesive loosen up and let go from the heat of the power supply?
I've never had a power supply get that hot unless there was something wrong with it. I installed car stereo many years ago and we used 3m double sided tape all the time in cars and never had any issues.
To be on the safe side you could put the tape on the ends of the supply instead of running it the length, its strong stuff!
OP
OP
Sometimes it's quite the opposite... the warmth actually makes it stick better. When I have to remove a power supply, sometimes it's difficult to remove it from my board. Now a lot of this will depend on what the finish is on the board that you are using.
OP
OP
Yep, although I sometimes skip the Reef Booster. It will make my skimmer go notes even days later.
Assuming a smooth surface would be better for the double sided tape?
OP
OP
Absolutely! And you may need to do two layers of foam tape to get past the little bumps(feet) on the bottom of some power supplies.
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- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
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- Location
- Sevenoaks, Kent, UK
Based on previous comments, would it be correct to say that 3/4" pipe on the primary overflow (the part with the valve) would be perfectly capable of dealing with around 900gph, which I think is roughly what my flow rate is. The Reefer uses 1" - would there be a reason for this? Less pressure into the sump when using 1" compared to 3/4"?
Any thoughts or advice on this would be appreciated.
Any thoughts or advice on this would be appreciated.
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2015
- Messages
- 644
- Reaction score
- 521
- Review score
- +0 /0 /-0
- Location
- Sevenoaks, Kent, UK
No worries, I went with the larger pipe.
I'm late, but what a fantastic photo!IMG_4804 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
This looks sick. Great workIMG_7964 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7959 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7963 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7967 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7969 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7979 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7985 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7984 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7986 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7989 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
IMG_7993 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
Is this a anenome?Working on the tank this evening... caught someone laying down on the job lol.
IMG_7178 by Toby Broadfield, on Flickr
OP
OP
Thanks! Hey, better late than never.
Thank you!
It is a goniopora
Can't begin to thank you enough for publishing this build! I'm taking delivery of a 525XL this week and getting ready to order my plumbing parts from PVCfittings. A couple of questions if you don't mind. 1) what is the purpose of the manifold fitting that is just above your M1 hook up shown in the attached photo? 2) Do you recall what fittings you used on the top of your reactors 3) Did you use slip or threaded gate valves?
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OP
OP
The fitting above the pump is a true union. It actually allows you a disconnect point so the manifold can easily be placed into the cabinet. Then the pump and it's connecting pipe can simply be mated up to it. It also allowed me in the past to quickly switch over to a Sicce pump when my Vectra power supply failed. Otherwise I would have had to take the entire manifold assembly out, cut off the Vectra sleeve/nut and attach a fitting to fit the Sicce. That would of been a total pain. Technically you want as many unions that you can fit into your piping. That way if something leaks etc, you can simply replace the plumbing between the two unions that are before and after the bad area. Otherwise you would need to rebuild the entire plumbing setup just to fix one spot. Unfortunately that's how my new plumbing setup is, because I don't have room for unions.
As for parts, I actually made a list of every part I used in my Reefer specific thread I started. This is for my new plumbing setup, as a couple of members wanted to copy it, but you can choose and pick the items you need out of the list! Please let me know if you have any other questions:
Here's a breakdown using colored furniture grade PVC and 1" main piping... if you are using 3/4" main piping, then simply substitute the 1" parts for 3/4".
PIPING
- 1/2"
- 1"
COLORED FITTINGS
- (4) 1" 90 degree elbows
- (1) 1" 45 degree elbow
- (3) 1" tees
- (9) 1/2" 90 degree elbows (may need 2 extra if you are doing the same sump as I have)
STANDARD SCHEDULE 40/80 FITTINGS
- (1) 1" True Union
- (3) 1" x 1/2" bushings
- (3) 1/2" gate valves
- (6) 1/2" MPT x 1/2" SLIP adapters (for top of reactors)
- (1) 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter(for connection to Red Sea return fitting)
ADDITIONAL FITTINGS NEEDED IF DOING THE MAIN AND EMERGENCY DRAINS LIKE MINE
- (2) 3/4" MPT x 1" SLIP adapter(for connection to Red Sea return fitting) NOTE: You will need to purchase 2 additional Red Sea barbed return assemblies.
- (1) 1" gate valve
O-RINGS NEEDED FOR ADAPTERS ON TOP OF REACTORS
- (12) I.D. of 11/16" with an O.D. of 7/8" with a thickness of 3/32"
I recommend getting this kit above to keep at your house... has a ton of different sizes and is cheap. I actually have this kit and the metric version. You never know what you might need an o-ring for around the house!
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OP
OP
No problem! Like I said, don't hesitate if you have any other questions.
I love this tank, so much work and creativity! Broadfield when are you going to make another video of the tank? Last time you made one on your youtube page was a LONG time ago.
-Nick
-Nick
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