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living_tribunal

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There is absolutely nothing on wilsoni care on here, or anywhere else on the web besides the high level points.

Do y’all know anyone who has taken care of an Australian cold water wilso? Could use some pointers from someone who is experienced.

I’m almost to the point where I’m going to take him out of qt 2 1/2 weeks early.
 

SashimiTurtle

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There is absolutely nothing on wilsoni care on here, or anywhere else on the web besides the high level points.

Do y’all know anyone who has taken care of an Australian cold water wilso? Could use some pointers from someone who is experienced.

I’m almost to the point where I’m going to take him out of qt 2 1/2 weeks early.
Nope... I thought it was just like a trachy.
 

living_tribunal

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Nope... I thought it was just like a trachy.

Not even remotely close. Every post I’ve read on here about them the people lost them.

A few online stores even mentioned they stopped purchasing them.


The warm water ones are a lot easier but no one has success with the cold water.
 

SashimiTurtle

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Not even remotely close. Every post I’ve read on here about them the people lost them.

A few online stores even mentioned they stopped purchasing them.


The warm water ones are a lot easier but no one has success with the cold water.
 

living_tribunal

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I’ve read that one before, while there are some helpful tidbits, there aren’t many specifics. The individual who had experience looks like he has a warm water one as well judging by the pic.
 

Magellan

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Not even remotely close. Every post I’ve read on here about them the people lost them.

A few online stores even mentioned they stopped purchasing them.


The warm water ones are a lot easier but no one has success with the cold water.
Maybe I’m missing something, but wouldn’t a cold water coral need colder water than the 78-79 range that everything else gets?

potentially less light, too? Maybe get it in some shade?
Yup it was the only way he would even make it to the main tank , he was in an infested flat worm aquarium. Everything from there had been dipped , even the fish and the snail
Well there’s your problem...
 

living_tribunal

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Maybe I’m missing something, but wouldn’t a cold water coral need colder water than the 78-79 range that everything else gets?

potentially less light, too? Maybe get it in some shade?

Well there’s your problem...

It’s not cold water as in a deep sea reef. These guys are found in the lagoon shores of northern Australia where the waters are 65-73 F. So cold but not North Atlantic cold.

Shade is definitely the plan, or at least partial. He’s going under that cove that receives scattered light near the blasto. He’s been in only 50par light so far thought so I don’t think that’s the reason for the tissue recession/bleaching. The bleaching of course is from nutrient deficiency, most likely from the inconsistent phosphates.

I also think that since these guys live in highly nutrient dense seas (tons of aminos, phosphates), the fishless frag tank was too inconsistent. I also had a lot of flow in there previously.
 

anon9896

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Maybe I’m missing something, but wouldn’t a cold water coral need colder water than the 78-79 range that everything else gets?

potentially less light, too? Maybe get it in some shade?

Well there’s your problem...
I know its the problem lol , but hey would you sleep with a honeless girl without taking the worms away?
 

LadyMac

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5672C11F-9FF6-4934-A0E6-43BB32E2BCD1.jpeg
 

Magellan

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It’s not cold water as in a deep sea reef. These guys are found in the lagoon shores of northern Australia where the waters are 65-73 F. So cold but not North Atlantic cold.

Shade is definitely the plan, or at least partial. He’s going under that cove that receives scattered light near the blasto. He’s been in only 50par light so far thought so I don’t think that’s the reason for the tissue recession/bleaching. The bleaching of course is from nutrient deficiency, most likely from the inconsistent phosphates.

I also think that since these guys live in highly nutrient dense seas (tons of aminos, phosphates), the fishless frag tank was too inconsistent. I also had a lot of flow in there previously.
Did you see where the post (with someone who had one like yours I think) mentioned that lowering his temp to 75-76 helped it? Seemed like DKh is pretty important too (NSW is about 8) and low flow is important as well. That was actually a really informative read, just piecing together what everyone said. Wouldn’t want to keep one tho! Low flow, low light, low temp, high nutrients...you would almost be forced to give it its own personal tank!
 

living_tribunal

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Did you see where the post (with someone who had one like yours I think) mentioned that lowering his temp to 75-76 helped it? Seemed like DKh is pretty important too (NSW is about 8) and low flow is important as well. That was actually a really informative read, just piecing together what everyone said. Wouldn’t want to keep one tho! Low flow, low light, low temp, high nutrients...you would almost be forced to give it its own personal tank!


There are a bunch of posts where you can get tidbits and piece them together as you mentioned, the issue is there’s nothing definitive like there is for monticap digitatas for example.

The other issue is people have two types of wilsonis that require very different care, similar to the difference in Indonesian and Australian gonis.

The very broad guidelines seem to be very carb/amino acid levels, low tank temps (74-76), low par (this one is mixed and a few with cold water Wilson’s have success at higher par), more importantly higher blue spectrum to white, and low flow.

I haven given this to him, at least I feel like I have. The only consideration is previously a lot of the high flow at the top of my frag tank got to him, potential alk swings from high to very high in the little frag tank from water changes, or phosphates bottoming out.

It’s too difficult to really pinpoint given how I’ve paid all of these pointers quite a lot of attention in my care of him so far. If any of those points are the cause and I got them wrong, my plan for him in the display should solve them.

I really hate breaking qt this early. He’s only been in quarantine for 3 1/2 weeks :/

He’s worth it though, even if the fish get sick sorry to say.

The only reason I’m considering this is tomonts don’t swim when they fall, and they can’t attach to lps tissue, only skeleton. Since his tissue covers all of his skeleton, it would be an amazing feat for a tomont to have landed on his skeleton.
 

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