Bacteria in bottle, busting myth, Seneye style.

[DieHardPhotog-Reefer]

For some that may not know. There are 2 types of ammonia in the tank. NH3 which is in gas form, deadly to fish and NH4 the non toxic kind.
If the pH was to be between 8.2-8.4 dosing ammonia or leaving a deli shrimp in tank will produce both kinds of ammonia in tank which would be in a specific ratio. Say you tested 2 ppm on your test kit which every hobby level kit on market is a TAN kit (total ammonia NH3/NH4) They dont break the toxic from non toxic apart. Only kit i am aware of that does both apart is Seachem multitest ammonia kit.
So if you had 2 ppm on a TAN kit its safe to assume toxic ammonia NH3 is about 0.2 ppm.

Seneye unit monitors the deadly type of ammonia NH3.

NH3 chart (according to Seneye)

Safe from 0.001 to 0.02
Alert from o.o2 to 0.05
Alarm from 0.05 to 0.2
Toxic from 0.2 to 0.5
Deadly 0.5+

That's very interesting. We have 5 segmented QT tanks setup with the Aquaclear HOB's. Now I can get a better idea of what the ammonia is really doing. FWIW, We started all our tanks with Dr. Tim's. Thank you for all your hard work and dedication.

 

[DieHardPhotog-Reefer]

I have two of them (both the "Reef" variety); one running on my DT, the other in my frag tank (which, for the moment, is disconnected from the DT); Each are hooked up to a SenEye web server.

TL;DR - Without the web server, the SenEye is basically a PAR meter. Yes; it can do more, but you likely won't use it for much more. WITH the web server, the SenEye is an active monitor and alerting system for key parameters of your tank (oh; and it's also a PAR meter when you need it to be).


To go into more detail on that; I think the SenEye is a wonderful little device that has paid for itself (or themselves, really) many times over. To set the stage; I got a SenEye as a way to avoid having to buy a controller. Yet after picking up 10's of thousands of dollars in Neptune gear (don't tell my wife), I still find value in the SenEye. Here's why;
One of the early lessons most reefers learn is the security that comes with redundancy. One main thing that the SenEye does for me these days is provide a backup and redundancy for all my Apex probes and sensors. My Apex probes are in the sump; the SenEye is in the DT (much less obtrusive than all the Apex probes). So I get monitoring of temp and Ph in two different zones of the tank. And while I could just use more Apex probes, I like that the SenEye uses something other than Neptune to alarm me - again; redundancy equals security. Beyond temp and Ph, the SenEye provides me with an "out of the water" alarm. I've got leak sensors on the ground around the tank, so this is another example of redundancy.
Beyond the redundancy, the SenEye also monitors the very thing that brings them up in this topic - ammonia (I'll leave off the NH3/NH4 for this review; though the difference is important). There have been many times (sadly) that I've received both alerts and alarms from the SenEye about ammonia levels in my tank (which, granted, is only just past a year old). Most of the time, the alerts were just barely above the limits (e.x.; 0.021) and they took care of themselves in short order. Though when the tank is in "SenEye alert", I did make sure to feed less - which often helped to bring it down faster. When I hit alarm states, it was generally because I had done something stupid - like disturbed a bunch of the sand bed and forgot to follow that up with a water change. Or I did a water change, but it wasn't large enough. My action here has been to get up off my rear and do another (larger) water change. So, basically, the ammonia notifications weren't always that something had died in the tank (though that did happen and I did find out because of the SenEye); it's been far more often that something was just a little bit off, so I knew to take action to fix it before it became a larger problem.

There are downsides; it's not all blooming zoas and freebies in the frag order. Having to buy the slides every month (in order to get Ph and ammonia monitoring) is a pain. Having to remember to soak them has caused me to go days (weeks) longer than I should have several times. It's not hard, of course - it's just something else that needs doing. I even have alarms and such on my phone to tell me to order slides on such-and-such a date, soak them on this date, change them the next. Still; it's something I have to actually do. And when I forget to order slides, the whole process can slip pretty far... This has never really caused a problem, however. When (if) I check the values, they may show a bit off (or have alarmed) and then I recall that I've not changed the slide in (mumble, mumble) and so it's more likely sensor drift than an actual problem in the tank. It's usually Ph, so I'll look it up on the Apex and see a proper value, then go on Amazon and order more slides (and/or soak ones I've got).
About the only other complaint I have is regarding the suction cup. I call it a "suction cup" because that's obviously what it was designed to be; not because that's the job it does. I'm not sure which side of it I dislike more - the side that is supposed to attach to the SenEye, or the side that's supposed to stick to the glass. Neither works, so not only does the unit end up just bobbing about (it's negatively buoyant, so it at least doesn't float), but I had to fish out the suction cup a few times in the early days. I've thrown out both of mine long since... I think they make a better holder for them that could be purchased - and I've no doubt I could 3D print something that would work - but I'm not really all that worried about it. I like some movement in the tank, after all...

Excellent feedback! That helps us in many ways.

 

[DieHardPhotog-Reefer]

Yup - and I've heard good things about them both. My review was referring to the suction cup included with the unit. And I'd like to make sure I'm clear here; my only complaints above about the unit has more to do with my lack of attention and a suction cup. The former is 100% my issue and the latter is not even remotely required for the unit to achieve 100% of it's functionality. So really, despite making every effort to provide a fair review, the negatives I could come up with are pitiful. Even the price on the unit is very reasonable for what you get out of it - and that's without a 10% discount! (Though I did get a 10% discount on my second unit due to a seasonal sale.)

In short; buy this thing if you want to keep an eye on your tank. Even if you have a fancy controller, a SenEye is a great addition to your disaster-aversion toolkit.

Thanks, again, @AQD-Seneye, for supporting not only this experiment, but also R2R. We really appreciate the contributions great sponsors like you make here!

Yes, even after spending an arm and a leg for the Apex, after reading this thread and your review, I really see the benefits of adding the Seneye to our system. I've had our Apex running for months and still can't get the blasted pH monitor calibrated properly so the Seneye would help in multiple ways but one for sure, as a confirmation on the pH. And I'm going to try to convince my wife that the 10% discount is a buy now excuse[emoji6]

 

[Dr. Reef]

not trying to push sales but for me there are 3 reasons to buy Seneye monitor.
1. Its a great unit that tells you behind the scene whats going on in your tanks in real time.
2. Discount they are offering
3. They didnt have to generously contribute 5 units to a home grown study (not even a profession lab or something)
This shows how confident they are in their product and their commitment to our hobby that one member of a forum asks for a few units to rent they donate 5 units. It shows their interest in our hobby and we should highly respect that and show them our appreciation by supporting them in return.
(imagine there are bacteria manufacturers that didnt even send me a $10-15 bottle for this test and Seneye is sending 5 x $150)

 

[Dr. Reef]

A little info in detail for some that may not know.

Nitrifying Bacteria Facts
One of the most important, and least understood, aspects of successful aquarium keeping is biological filtration and its function in the nitrogen cycle. Traditionally, novice aquarists become disillusioned at the frequently experienced high death rates of their aquatic pets after setting up a new aquarium. Statistically, as much as 60% of the fish sold for a new aquarium will die within the first 30 days. Two out of every three new aquarists abandon the hobby within the first year.

Known as "New Tank Syndrome" these fish are poisoned by high levels of ammonia (NH3) that is produced by the bacterial mineralization of fish wastes, excess food, and the decomposition of animal and plant tissues. Additional ammonia is excreted directly into the water by the fish themselves. The effects of ammonia poisoning in fish are well documented. These effects include: extensive damage to tissues, especially the gills and kidney; physiological imbalances; impaired growth; decreased resistance to disease, and; death.

Nitrite poisoning inhibits the uptake of oxygen by red blood cells. Known as brown blood disease, or methemoglobinemia, the hemoglobin in red blood cells is converted to methemoglobin. This problem is much more severe in fresh water fish than in marine organisms. The presence of chloride ions (CL-) appears to inhibit the accumulation of nitrite in the blood stream.

The successful aquarist realizes the importance of establishing the nitrogen cycle quickly and with minimal stress on the aquarium’s inhabitants. Aquarium filtration has advanced from the old box filters filled with charcoal and glass wool to undergravel filters, then trickle filters, and most recently - fluidized bed filters. Every advance has been to improve upon the effectiveness of biological filtration which in turn increases the efficiency of the nitrogen cycle. The availability of advanced high-tech filtration systems has lent added importance to the understanding of basic aquatic chemistry.

Nitrifying bacteria are classified as obligate chemolithotrophs. This simply means that they must use inorganic salts as an energy source and generally cannot utilize organic materials. They must oxidize ammonia and nitrites for their energy needs and fix inorganic carbon dioxide (CO2) to fulfill their carbon requirements. They are largely non-motile and must colonize a surface (gravel, sand, synthetic biomedia, etc.) for optimum growth. They secrete a sticky slime matrix which they use to attach themselves.

Species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are gram negative, mostly rod-shaped, microbes ranging between 0.6-4.0 microns in length. They are obligate aerobes and cannot multiply or convert ammonia or nitrites in the absence of oxygen.

Nitrifying bacteria have long generation times due to the low energy yield from their oxidation reactions. Since little energy is produced from these reactions they have evolved to become extremely efficient at converting ammonia and nitrite. Scientific studies have shown that Nitrosomonas bacterium are so efficient that a single cell can convert ammonia at a rate that would require up to one million heterotrophs to accomplish. Most of their energy production (80%) is devoted to fixing CO2 via the Calvin cycle and little energy remains for growth and reproduction. As a consequence, they have a very slow reproductive rate.

Nitrifying bacteria reproduce by binary division. Under optimal conditions, Nitrosomonas may double every 7 hours and Nitrobacter every 13 hours. More realistically, they will double every 15-20 hours. This is an extremely long time considering that heterotrophic bacteria can double in as short a time as 20 minutes. In the time that it takes a single Nitrosomonas cell to double in population, a single E. Coli bacterium would have produced a population exceeding 35 trillion cells.

None of the Nitrobacteraceae are able to form spores. They have a complex cytomembrane (cell wall) that is surrounded by a slime matrix. All species have limited tolerance ranges and are individually sensitive to pH, dissolved oxygen levels, salt, temperature, and inhibitory chemicals. Unlike species of heterotrophic bacteria, they cannot survive any drying process without killing the organism. In water, they can survive short periods of adverse conditions by utilizing stored materials within the cell. When these materials are depleted, the bacteria die.

Biological Data
There are several species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria and many strains among those species. Most of this information can be applied to species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter in general, however, each strain may have specific tolerances to environmental factors and nutriment preferences not shared by other, very closely related, strains. The information presented here applies specifically to Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter strains.

Temperature
The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 50% at 64° F (18° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 75% at 46-50° F.

No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

Nitrobacter is less tolerant of low temperatures than Nitrosomonas. In cold water systems, care must be taken to monitor the accumulation of nitrites.

pH
The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0.

The optimum pH range for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5

Nitrobacter will grow more slowly at the high pH levels typical of marine aquaria and preferred by African Rift Lake Cichlids. Initial high nitrite concentrations may exist. At pH levels below 7.0, Nitrosomonas will grow more slowly and increases in ammonia may become evident. Nitrosomonas growth is inhibited at a pH of 6.5. All nitrification is inhibited if the pH drops to 6.0 or less. Care must be taken to monitor ammonia if the pH begins to drop close to 6.5. At this pH almost all of the ammonia present in the water will be in the mildly toxic, ionized NH3+ state.

Dissolved Oxygen
Maximum nitrification rates will exist if dissolved oxygen (DO) levels exceed 80% saturation. Nitrification will not occur if DO concentrations drop to 2.0 mg/l (ppm) or less. Nitrobacter is more strongly affected by low DO than NITROSOMONAS.

Salinity
Freshwater nitrifying bacteria will grow in salinities ranging between 0 to 6 ppt (parts per thousand) (specific gravity between 1.0000-1.0038).

Saltwater nitrifying bacteria will grow in salinities ranging from 6 up to 44 ppt. (specific gravity between 1.0038-1.0329).

Adaptation to different salinities may involve a lag time of 1-3 days before exponential growth begins.

Micronutrients
All species of nitrifying bacteria require a number of micronutrients. Most important among these is the need for phosphorus for ATP (Adenosine Tri-Phosphate) production. The conversion of ATP provides energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is normally available to cells in the form of phosphates (PO4). Nitrobacter, especially, is unable to oxidize nitrite to nitrate in the absence of phosphates.

Sufficient phosphates are normally present in regular drinking water. During certain periods of the year, the amount of phosphates may be very low. A phenomenon known as "Phosphate Block" may occur. If all the above described parameters are within the optimum ranges for the bacteria and nitrite levels continue to escalate without production of nitrate, then phosphate block may be occurring. In recent years, with the advent of phosphate-free synthetic sea salt mixes, this problem has become prevalent among marine aquarists when establishing a new tank.

Fortunately, phosphate block is easy to remedy. A source of phosphate needs to be added to the aquarium. Phosphoric Acid is recommended as being simplest to use and dose, however, either mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate may be substituted. When using a 31% phosphoric acid mixture, apply a one time application of 1 drop per 4 gallons of water to activate the Nitrobacter. This small dosage of phosphoric acid will not affect the pH or alkalinity of marine aquaria.

Minimal levels of other essential micronutrients is often not a problem as they are available in our drinking water supplies. The increasing popularity of high-tech water filters for deionizing, distilling, and reverse osmosis (hyper-filtration) produce water that is stripped of these nutrients. While these filters are generally excellent for producing high purity water, this water will also be inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. The serious aquarist must replenish the basic salts necessary to the survival of the aquarium’s inhabitants. These salts, however, usually lack these critical micronutrients.

Nutriment
All species of Nitrosomonas use ammonia (NH3) as an energy source during its conversion to nitrite (NO2). Ammonia is first converted (hydrolyzed) to an amine (NH2) compound then oxidized to nitrite. This conversion process allows Nitrosomonas to utilize a few simple amine compounds such as those formed by the conversion of ammonia by chemical ammonia removers.

Nitrosomonas is capable of utilizing urea as an energy source.

All species of Nitrobacter use nitrites for their energy source in oxidizing them to nitrate (NO3).

Color and Smell
The cells of nitrifying bacteria are opaque to brownish in color. What you see are actually clumps of bacteria stuck together by their own slime matrix.

Most nitrifying bacteria solutions have an "earthy" smell.

Caution: solutions that contain dark brown or black liquids and/or product that smell of sulfur or rotten eggs can contain spoiled or even contaminated bacteria. If you suspect that the product is spoiled or contaminated, do not apply to closed aquatic system.

Light
Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a surface this light poses no problem. During the first 3 or 4 days many of the cells may be suspended in the water column. Specialized bulbs in reef aquaria that emit UV or near UV light should remain off during this time. Regular aquarium lighting has no appreciable negative effect.

Chlorine and Chloramines
Before adding bacteria or fish to any aquarium or system, all chlorine must be completely neutralized. Residual chlorine or chloramines will kill all nitrifying bacteria and fish.

Most US cities now treat their drinking water with chloramines. Chloramines are more stable than chlorine. It is advisable to test for chlorine with an inexpensive test kit. If you are unsure whether your water has been treated with chloramine, test for ammonia after neutralizing the chlorine. You can also call your local water treatment facility.

The type of chloramines formed is dependent on pH. Most of it exists as either monochloramine (NH2Cl) or dichloramine (NHCl2). They are made by adding ammonia to chlorinated water. Commercial chlorine reducing chemicals, such as sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O2) break the chlorine:ammonia bond. Chlorine (Cl) is reduced to harmless chloride (Cl- ) ion. Since dichloramine has two chlorine molecules, a double dose of a chlorine remover, such as sodium thiosulfate, is recommended.

Each molecule of chloramine that is reduced will produce one molecule of ammonia. If the chloramine concentration is 2 ppm then your aquarium or system will start out with 2 ppm of ammonia. Chlorine Remover will reduce up to 2 ppm of chlorine at recommended dosages. During the warmer months chlorine levels may exceed 2 ppm. A double dose would be required to effectively eliminate the excess chlorine.

Adding Bacteria
After all the chlorine has been safely neutralized, nitrifying bacteria should be added to rid the aquarium of ammonia. Depending on the aquarium pH, 3-4 days may be advisable before adding your fish in order to minimize stress. If the water supply does not contain chloramines, and there is no ammonia, nitrifying bacteria should be added at the same time as the fish.

Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter species of bacteria belong to the family NITROBACTERACEAE - the true nitrifiers. Five genera are generally accepted as ammonia-oxidizers and four genera as nitrite-oxidizers. Of these, Nitrosomonas (ammonia-oxidizers) and Nitrobacter (nitrite-oxidizers) are the most important. Marine species are different from those that prefer fresh water, and yet, are very closely related. Each species has a limited optimum range for survival. They are the most efficient, and most important, group of nitrifying bacteria and are ubiquitous (world-wide) in their distribution.

Care should be taken to research companies that provide true strains of nitrifying bacteria. Often "bacteria" found in the market place are not true autotrophic nitrifying bacteria and are instead heterotrophic sludge (organic) consuming bacteria. Heterotrophic bacteria are not nitrifying bacteria and the use of heterotrophic bacteria will provide little to no benefit at establishing a sound or "cycled" ammonia and nitrite consuming biological filter.

 

[DieHardPhotog-Reefer]

A little info in detail for some that may not know.

Nitrifying Bacteria Facts
One of the most important, and least understood, aspects of successful aquarium keeping is biological filtration and its function in the nitrogen cycle. Traditionally, novice aquarists become disillusioned at the frequently experienced high death rates of their aquatic pets after setting up a new aquarium. Statistically, as much as 60% of the fish sold for a new aquarium will die within the first 30 days. Two out of every three new aquarists abandon the hobby within the first year.

Known as "New Tank Syndrome" these fish are poisoned by high levels of ammonia (NH3) that is produced by the bacterial mineralization of fish wastes, excess food, and the decomposition of animal and plant tissues. Additional ammonia is excreted directly into the water by the fish themselves. The effects of ammonia poisoning in fish are well documented. These effects include: extensive damage to tissues, especially the gills and kidney; physiological imbalances; impaired growth; decreased resistance to disease, and; death.

Nitrite poisoning inhibits the uptake of oxygen by red blood cells. Known as brown blood disease, or methemoglobinemia, the hemoglobin in red blood cells is converted to methemoglobin. This problem is much more severe in fresh water fish than in marine organisms. The presence of chloride ions (CL-) appears to inhibit the accumulation of nitrite in the blood stream.

The successful aquarist realizes the importance of establishing the nitrogen cycle quickly and with minimal stress on the aquarium’s inhabitants. Aquarium filtration has advanced from the old box filters filled with charcoal and glass wool to undergravel filters, then trickle filters, and most recently - fluidized bed filters. Every advance has been to improve upon the effectiveness of biological filtration which in turn increases the efficiency of the nitrogen cycle. The availability of advanced high-tech filtration systems has lent added importance to the understanding of basic aquatic chemistry.

Nitrifying bacteria are classified as obligate chemolithotrophs. This simply means that they must use inorganic salts as an energy source and generally cannot utilize organic materials. They must oxidize ammonia and nitrites for their energy needs and fix inorganic carbon dioxide (CO2) to fulfill their carbon requirements. They are largely non-motile and must colonize a surface (gravel, sand, synthetic biomedia, etc.) for optimum growth. They secrete a sticky slime matrix which they use to attach themselves.

Species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are gram negative, mostly rod-shaped, microbes ranging between 0.6-4.0 microns in length. They are obligate aerobes and cannot multiply or convert ammonia or nitrites in the absence of oxygen.

Nitrifying bacteria have long generation times due to the low energy yield from their oxidation reactions. Since little energy is produced from these reactions they have evolved to become extremely efficient at converting ammonia and nitrite. Scientific studies have shown that Nitrosomonas bacterium are so efficient that a single cell can convert ammonia at a rate that would require up to one million heterotrophs to accomplish. Most of their energy production (80%) is devoted to fixing CO2 via the Calvin cycle and little energy remains for growth and reproduction. As a consequence, they have a very slow reproductive rate.

Nitrifying bacteria reproduce by binary division. Under optimal conditions, Nitrosomonas may double every 7 hours and Nitrobacter every 13 hours. More realistically, they will double every 15-20 hours. This is an extremely long time considering that heterotrophic bacteria can double in as short a time as 20 minutes. In the time that it takes a single Nitrosomonas cell to double in population, a single E. Coli bacterium would have produced a population exceeding 35 trillion cells.

None of the Nitrobacteraceae are able to form spores. They have a complex cytomembrane (cell wall) that is surrounded by a slime matrix. All species have limited tolerance ranges and are individually sensitive to pH, dissolved oxygen levels, salt, temperature, and inhibitory chemicals. Unlike species of heterotrophic bacteria, they cannot survive any drying process without killing the organism. In water, they can survive short periods of adverse conditions by utilizing stored materials within the cell. When these materials are depleted, the bacteria die.

Biological Data
There are several species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter bacteria and many strains among those species. Most of this information can be applied to species of Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter in general, however, each strain may have specific tolerances to environmental factors and nutriment preferences not shared by other, very closely related, strains. The information presented here applies specifically to Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter strains.

Temperature
The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 50% at 64° F (18° C).

Growth rate is decreased by 75% at 46-50° F.

No activity will occur at 39° F (4° C)

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).

Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)

Nitrobacter is less tolerant of low temperatures than Nitrosomonas. In cold water systems, care must be taken to monitor the accumulation of nitrites.

pH
The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0.

The optimum pH range for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5

Nitrobacter will grow more slowly at the high pH levels typical of marine aquaria and preferred by African Rift Lake Cichlids. Initial high nitrite concentrations may exist. At pH levels below 7.0, Nitrosomonas will grow more slowly and increases in ammonia may become evident. Nitrosomonas growth is inhibited at a pH of 6.5. All nitrification is inhibited if the pH drops to 6.0 or less. Care must be taken to monitor ammonia if the pH begins to drop close to 6.5. At this pH almost all of the ammonia present in the water will be in the mildly toxic, ionized NH3+ state.

Dissolved Oxygen
Maximum nitrification rates will exist if dissolved oxygen (DO) levels exceed 80% saturation. Nitrification will not occur if DO concentrations drop to 2.0 mg/l (ppm) or less. Nitrobacter is more strongly affected by low DO than NITROSOMONAS.

Salinity
Freshwater nitrifying bacteria will grow in salinities ranging between 0 to 6 ppt (parts per thousand) (specific gravity between 1.0000-1.0038).

Saltwater nitrifying bacteria will grow in salinities ranging from 6 up to 44 ppt. (specific gravity between 1.0038-1.0329).

Adaptation to different salinities may involve a lag time of 1-3 days before exponential growth begins.

Micronutrients
All species of nitrifying bacteria require a number of micronutrients. Most important among these is the need for phosphorus for ATP (Adenosine Tri-Phosphate) production. The conversion of ATP provides energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is normally available to cells in the form of phosphates (PO4). Nitrobacter, especially, is unable to oxidize nitrite to nitrate in the absence of phosphates.

Sufficient phosphates are normally present in regular drinking water. During certain periods of the year, the amount of phosphates may be very low. A phenomenon known as "Phosphate Block" may occur. If all the above described parameters are within the optimum ranges for the bacteria and nitrite levels continue to escalate without production of nitrate, then phosphate block may be occurring. In recent years, with the advent of phosphate-free synthetic sea salt mixes, this problem has become prevalent among marine aquarists when establishing a new tank.

Fortunately, phosphate block is easy to remedy. A source of phosphate needs to be added to the aquarium. Phosphoric Acid is recommended as being simplest to use and dose, however, either mono-sodium phosphate or di-sodium phosphate may be substituted. When using a 31% phosphoric acid mixture, apply a one time application of 1 drop per 4 gallons of water to activate the Nitrobacter. This small dosage of phosphoric acid will not affect the pH or alkalinity of marine aquaria.

Minimal levels of other essential micronutrients is often not a problem as they are available in our drinking water supplies. The increasing popularity of high-tech water filters for deionizing, distilling, and reverse osmosis (hyper-filtration) produce water that is stripped of these nutrients. While these filters are generally excellent for producing high purity water, this water will also be inhibitory to nitrifying bacteria. The serious aquarist must replenish the basic salts necessary to the survival of the aquarium’s inhabitants. These salts, however, usually lack these critical micronutrients.

Nutriment
All species of Nitrosomonas use ammonia (NH3) as an energy source during its conversion to nitrite (NO2). Ammonia is first converted (hydrolyzed) to an amine (NH2) compound then oxidized to nitrite. This conversion process allows Nitrosomonas to utilize a few simple amine compounds such as those formed by the conversion of ammonia by chemical ammonia removers.

Nitrosomonas is capable of utilizing urea as an energy source.

All species of Nitrobacter use nitrites for their energy source in oxidizing them to nitrate (NO3).

Color and Smell
The cells of nitrifying bacteria are opaque to brownish in color. What you see are actually clumps of bacteria stuck together by their own slime matrix.

Most nitrifying bacteria solutions have an "earthy" smell.

Caution: solutions that contain dark brown or black liquids and/or product that smell of sulfur or rotten eggs can contain spoiled or even contaminated bacteria. If you suspect that the product is spoiled or contaminated, do not apply to closed aquatic system.

Light
Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a surface this light poses no problem. During the first 3 or 4 days many of the cells may be suspended in the water column. Specialized bulbs in reef aquaria that emit UV or near UV light should remain off during this time. Regular aquarium lighting has no appreciable negative effect.

Chlorine and Chloramines
Before adding bacteria or fish to any aquarium or system, all chlorine must be completely neutralized. Residual chlorine or chloramines will kill all nitrifying bacteria and fish.

Most US cities now treat their drinking water with chloramines. Chloramines are more stable than chlorine. It is advisable to test for chlorine with an inexpensive test kit. If you are unsure whether your water has been treated with chloramine, test for ammonia after neutralizing the chlorine. You can also call your local water treatment facility.

The type of chloramines formed is dependent on pH. Most of it exists as either monochloramine (NH2Cl) or dichloramine (NHCl2). They are made by adding ammonia to chlorinated water. Commercial chlorine reducing chemicals, such as sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O2) break the chlorine:ammonia bond. Chlorine (Cl) is reduced to harmless chloride (Cl- ) ion. Since dichloramine has two chlorine molecules, a double dose of a chlorine remover, such as sodium thiosulfate, is recommended.

Each molecule of chloramine that is reduced will produce one molecule of ammonia. If the chloramine concentration is 2 ppm then your aquarium or system will start out with 2 ppm of ammonia. Chlorine Remover will reduce up to 2 ppm of chlorine at recommended dosages. During the warmer months chlorine levels may exceed 2 ppm. A double dose would be required to effectively eliminate the excess chlorine.

Adding Bacteria
After all the chlorine has been safely neutralized, nitrifying bacteria should be added to rid the aquarium of ammonia. Depending on the aquarium pH, 3-4 days may be advisable before adding your fish in order to minimize stress. If the water supply does not contain chloramines, and there is no ammonia, nitrifying bacteria should be added at the same time as the fish.

Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter species of bacteria belong to the family NITROBACTERACEAE - the true nitrifiers. Five genera are generally accepted as ammonia-oxidizers and four genera as nitrite-oxidizers. Of these, Nitrosomonas (ammonia-oxidizers) and Nitrobacter (nitrite-oxidizers) are the most important. Marine species are different from those that prefer fresh water, and yet, are very closely related. Each species has a limited optimum range for survival. They are the most efficient, and most important, group of nitrifying bacteria and are ubiquitous (world-wide) in their distribution.

Care should be taken to research companies that provide true strains of nitrifying bacteria. Often "bacteria" found in the market place are not true autotrophic nitrifying bacteria and are instead heterotrophic sludge (organic) consuming bacteria. Heterotrophic bacteria are not nitrifying bacteria and the use of heterotrophic bacteria will provide little to no benefit at establishing a sound or "cycled" ammonia and nitrite consuming biological filter.

I started a 7 gal QT tank with Dr. Tim's One & Only, added ammonia, and had 1 or 2 clownfish in the tank for at least 90 days with an ammonia badge reading "safe." If I've removed all fish from the tank but left the HOB filter or a foam air filter running with no rock and no sand. MarinePure bio balls are in the HOB:
1. how could I preserve the beneficial bacteria for future use?
2. Could I keep the tank empty for an indefinite amount of time?
3. Would simple ammonia drops be enough to feed the bacteria and how often/much would be needed.

My purpose is to always have a kind of seeding source for quick tank setup/QT/Hospital tank seed that won't create bacterial blooms and that's not subject to any diseases that my main tank might encounter by accident.

I know others just keep a foam filter in the sump but after unexpectedly finding a disease in the DT, and going FALLOW, I'd like to keep a backup source for safety resets.

Excellent info! Thank you!

 

[Dr. Reef]

You can keep this tank up and running and pull the fish out.
1. to preserve the bacteria you can feed a pinch of food every 3 days or so
2. Yes you can keep it cycled indefinite as long as all parameters remain normal and you feed every 3 days or so,
3. You can use ammonia, a few drops every 3 days or so.

 

[DieHardPhotog-Reefer]

You can keep this tank up and running and pull the fish out.
1. to preserve the bacteria you can feed a pinch of food every 3 days or so
2. Yes you can keep it cycled indefinite as long as all parameters remain normal and you feed every 3 days or so,
3. You can use ammonia, a few drops every 3 days or so.

Thank you for your time and info! Didn't mean to distract from the purpose of the project thread[emoji1]

 

[B's Reef]

This is going to be a really cool thread! Im very interested to see the comparison between these products. Im personally a fan of the fritz product. I started my current system using it a couple years ago. Gearing up for a bigger tank, planning on going the same route unless your study tells me otherwise!

 

[Heuey51]

Following along

 

[Heuey51]

Following along

 

[Traian Boala]

I am a new reefer and one of the first gear that I bought for my reef tank was the Seneye. It did not only help for the initial cycle, but I had to perform a hyposalinity treatement for ick in the DT and the Seneye was priceless. I could constantly monitor my NH3 and PH - the main concerns in this case. As a side note: the suction cup works in my case

 

[Belgian Anthias]

What is in really the bottle? The first thing I would like to know before adding additives into a live support system.

 

[Belgian Anthias]

For some that may not know. There are 2 types of ammonia in the tank. NH3 which is in gas form, deadly to fish and NH4 the non toxic kind.
If the pH was to be between 8.2-8.4 dosing ammonia or leaving a deli shrimp in tank will produce both kinds of ammonia in tank which would be in a specific ratio. Say you tested 2 ppm on your test kit which every hobby level kit on market is a TAN kit (total ammonia NH3/NH4) They dont break the toxic from non toxic apart. Only kit i am aware of that does both apart is Seachem multitest ammonia kit.
So if you had 2 ppm on a TAN kit its safe to assume toxic ammonia NH3 is about 0.2 ppm.

Seneye unit monitors the deadly type of ammonia NH3.

NH3 chart (according to Seneye)

Safe from 0.001 to 0.02
Alert from o.o2 to 0.05
Alarm from 0.05 to 0.2
Toxic from 0.2 to 0.5
Deadly 0.5+

NH3 is a slow killer and may accumulate in an organism as NH4 until it influences internal pH to much and kills the beast. NH3 may pass true a membrane, transform into NH4 and accumulate because the molecule of NH4 is to big to pass true the same membrane. It is difficult to determine which level of NH3 present in the water column is deadly or safe!
From TAN one can calculate the amount of NH3 which possibly may be present. Organisms prefer NH3 as a nitrogen source and it is used very fast. The possible theoretical NH3/NH4 balance depending of pH, deducted from a TAN and pH reading, will only be reached when NH3 reduction is interrupted or to slow. Would it be possible NH4 accumulates in an aquarium system, in soil and rock with different and much lower pH, without being measured by the amount of NH3 present in the water column? Presence of a high amount of NH3 in the water column would certainly tell me a lot about the carrying capacity of the system but when very low NH3 levels are measured, may we conclude that the carrying capacity is sufficient and effective and no NH4 accumulates? May be concluded from NH3 readings that a sudden pH change will not produce an for organisms on the long term lethal amount of NH3, for example due to a big water change for correcting low pH and alkalinity?

 

[Dr. Reef]

This is why we recommend that after opening the transport/shipping bags to get the fish out fast rather than slow drip.
What happens in a shipping bag and water is due to low oxygen levels pH drops and when the pH is low the ammonia is in NH4 form. Which is harmless to fish. But soon as you open the bag oxygen gets involved and pH get normal and turn the NH4 to toxic NH3 gas which even in small amount can start hurting gills and internal organs and can be lethal over 0.2 ppm.

This is why I highly recommend calling the supplier before you receive your shipment and match your parameters in your QT to that of the shipping water.

 

[Bill Howard]

Following

 

[Belgian Anthias]

This is why we recommend that after opening the transport/shipping bags to get the fish out fast rather than slow drip.
What happens in a shipping bag and water is due to low oxygen levels pH drops and when the pH is low the ammonia is in NH4 form. Which is harmless to fish. But soon as you open the bag oxygen gets involved and pH get normal and turn the NH4 to toxic NH3 gas which even in small amount can start hurting gills and internal organs and can be lethal over 0.2 ppm.

This is why I highly recommend calling the supplier before you receive your shipment and match your parameters in your QT to that of the shipping water.

The present increased CO2 level lowers the pH and CO2 is driven out when opening the bag. Some even use an air stone to supply oxygen which will drive out the CO2 very fast. The dripping method is used to prevent chock but the pH chock can not be prevented when the bag is opened and moved around and long term NH3 poisoning may start here. A bag that is under pressure and suddenly opened, the pressure reduction will suck out dissolved gasses out of the water creating a shock. A fish that has been a long time in the bag may already have accumulated some NH4 and body pH may be low. Such a fish will only survive the following days or week if the pH transition is slow.

 

[Tim Olson]

Thank you Dr. Reef for starting this thread and also to Seneye for the units. This should be a great learning experience. Also, I've been on the fence about getting a Seneye, so I'm interested in how it performs and how the data is utilized.

 

[klp]

Just when you think there is nothing new to be said about the nitrogen cycle... Interesting thread and thanks for taking the time to do it.

 

[dutch27]

Tagging along. Anecdotally, IME, bacteria-in-a-bottle products have been wasted money. I've never magically cycled faster with them, then without them, both FW and SW.

My ammonia method opposed to shrimp has been to add some fish food - frozen or dry, doesn't matter - and let it decompose and create ammonia.