ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

[Joko]

What are you trying to grow and how large is your tank?

That's a preset you're using. Let me know what corals you're trying to keep.

Hello

I have a MixReef with LPS,SPS
My tank is 160x60x70cm deep
I currently have two ATI Straton and they are mounted 21cm above the water surface.

 

[mstgkillr]

Anyone figure out how to get Ecotech’s Radion G5 AB+ color/spectrum on the Straton?

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Hello

I have a MixReef with LPS,SPS
My tank is 160x60x70cm deep
I currently have two ATI Straton and they are mounted 21cm above the water surface.

That's a bit close to the water surface. You'll get much better spread mou tong them about 12 or 14 inches over the tank. Mixed mode should be just fine.

 

[Joko]

That's a bit close to the water surface. You'll get much better spread mou tong them about 12 or 14 inches over the tank. Mixed mode should be just fine.

Thank you for your advice

 

[beesnreefs]

Can anyone help me with accessing my lights via the WiFi app?

I’ve set up each of my three Stratons as clients and connected to my 2.4 network. FWIW I have a Ubiquiti long range access point in my house.

Downloaded the app and tried to connect. The app scans and sees the three lights:

I then select a light and am prompted to log in. Type in username and password and it takes me to the following screen:

Then….nothing. Stays on that screen, blank like you see above. I’ve tried all three lights with no luck.

Any ideas?

 

[mstgkillr]

These are the Custom settings I've been running over a year on my 4 ATI Stratons. I'm the 2nd owner of the lights and tank that I bought from the OP of this thread. Here are my settings. Tank is 1 year 4 months old.. The colored dots on the graph match the colors the red arrows are pointing at.

How high above the water did you mount your lights?

 

[oreo54]

Can anyone help me with accessing my lights via the WiFi app?

I’ve set up each of my three Stratons as clients and connected to my 2.4 network. FWIW I have a Ubiquiti long range access point in my house.

Downloaded the app and tried to connect. The app scans and sees the three lights:

I then select a light and am prompted to log in. Type in username and password and it takes me to the following screen:

Then….nothing. Stays on that screen, blank like you see above. I’ve tried all three lights with no luck.

Any ideas?

https://www.atinorthamerica.com/res...on-articles/how-to-connect-to-an-ati-straton/

Seems at this point you go to a browser..

• After connecting, the 2nd light indicator on the Ethernet port should blink green.
• Open your preferred internet browser and type 192.168.100.1 into the address bar to access the fixtures log-in screen.

 

[mstgkillr]

It seems that my PAR is still on the low side as measured with an Apogee MQ-510. I have 3 Stratons mounted 13" over the water on my 900 3XL. There is 5.5" between fixtures.

At 8" below the water, centered under the middle fixture, I am only seeing 280, 210, and 185 PAR for the factory SPS, LPS/SPS, and LPS settings, respectively. The intensity is at 100% for all fixtures and spectrums. On the sand bed, the PAR drops down to 95, 68, and 52.

For comparison, my Radion G5 Blues produced 225 PAR at the same 8" below the the water location, at 45% intensity.

 

[mstgkillr]

Considering the Stratons have been confirmed discontinued, I purchased a 4th fixture if nothing else but for a spare. Of course, now that I have another fixture, I’m wondering if I should use it.

I currently have a Red Sea S-1000 which is 82.7” long. However, it is eurobraced, so the inside (top down) opening is only 76.5” long. I have 3 Stratons spaced 5.5” apart (between fixtures), leaving 5” from the edge of the Straton to the inside edge of the eurobracing, or 8.1” from the edge of the Straton to the outside edge of the tank.

If I added another fixture, I could basically have edge to edge Stratons over the opening of the tank, with less than an inch (0.83”) between fixtures.

Comments appreciated! What would you do?

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Considering the Stratons have been confirmed discontinued, I purchased a 4th fixture if nothing else but for a spare. Of course, now that I have another fixture, I’m wondering if I should use it.

I currently have a Red Sea S-1000 which is 82.7” long. However, it is eurobraced, so the inside (top down) opening is only 76.5” long. I have 3 Stratons spaced 5.5” apart (between fixtures), leaving 5” from the edge of the Straton to the inside edge of the eurobracing, or 8.1” from the edge of the Straton to the outside edge of the tank.

If I added another fixture, I could basically have edge to edge Stratons over the opening of the tank, with less than an inch (0.83”) between fixtures.

Comments appreciated! What would you do?

I would get your power checked in your home. That PAR is low and I can only wonder if the power is actually coming in at full power.

 

[mstgkillr]

I have a similar setup (for halides) of aluminum rail.

Where did you get the aluminum rail? Dimensions?

Is that an aluminum rail also? If so, where did you get it from?

 

[CK00020]

It is aluminum rail, I have to think about where I got it

 

[CK00020]

I think it was from 80/20 you can have them cut it any size you want

 

[mstgkillr]

It seems that my PAR is still on the low side as measured with an Apogee MQ-510. I have 3 Stratons mounted 13" over the water on my 900 3XL. There is 5.5" between fixtures.

At 8" below the water, centered under the middle fixture, I am only seeing 280, 210, and 185 PAR for the factory SPS, LPS/SPS, and LPS settings, respectively. The intensity is at 100% for all fixtures and spectrums. On the sand bed, the PAR drops down to 95, 68, and 52.

For comparison, my Radion G5 Blues produced 225 PAR at the same 8" below the the water location, at 45% intensity.

Added a 4th fixture for basically edge-to-edge coverage, and PAR increased (@ 8” below the water surface) from 280 to 500, 210 to 390, and 185 to 340, for factory SPS, LPS/SPS, and LPS settings, respectively. At 70% LPS I’m getting 240 PAR.

Guess I just needed another fixture.

 

[beesnreefs]

Added a 4th fixture for basically edge-to-edge coverage, and PAR increased (@ 8” below the water surface) from 280 to 500, 210 to 390, and 185 to 340, for factory SPS, LPS/SPS, and LPS settings, respectively. At 70% LPS I’m getting 240 PAR.

Guess I just needed another fixture.

Remind me how far over the water surface your lights are mounted?

 

[mstgkillr]

9” and my glass was covered in algae, so I assume better numbers once the glass is clean.

 

[Naturalreef]

Just a quick follow up to what I thought was lighting issues with my Sps declining, ended up being a heater issue. I couldnt wrap my head around why my Sps were declining with the same par I had always been using with very careful bump ups in intensity.

Visitherm heater was the culprit. Quiet evening on the iPad and I heard popping in my tank. Simple deduction by turning equipment on and off and found the heater with a failed seal. Took heater out of tank and water poured out of it.

I had a mild case of dinoflagellates which also threw me since my parameters were perfect. I figured the heater leaked chemicals into the tank which killed beneficial bacteria along with some expensive frags! Carbon, Cuprisorb and some water changes and things are turning around. Not sure if I’ll lose some more frags, since it will take a few weeks to see If they were affected.

All of my equipment I purchased to prevent mishaps and I overlooked the heater. Of course lost the very frags that I waited so long to get. Lessons, more lessons

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Just a quick follow up to what I thought was lighting issues with my Sps declining, ended up being a heater issue. I couldnt wrap my head around why my Sps were declining with the same par I had always been using with very careful bump ups in intensity.

Visitherm heater was the culprit. Quiet evening on the iPad and I heard popping in my tank. Simple deduction by turning equipment on and off and found the heater with a failed seal. Took heater out of tank and water poured out of it.

I had a mild case of dinoflagellates which also threw me since my parameters were perfect. I figured the heater leaked chemicals into the tank which killed beneficial bacteria along with some expensive frags! Carbon, Cuprisorb and some water changes and things are turning around. Not sure if I’ll lose some more frags, since it will take a few weeks to see If they were affected.

All of my equipment I purchased to prevent mishaps and I overlooked the heater. Of course lost the very frags that I waited so long to get. Lessons, more lessons

Not sure if you have one, but a titanium grounding probe in your sump is cheap insurance against things like that. I use two of them, one in the return pump, sump area and one in the overflow where the two Eheim Thermocontrol heaters are.

I could have purchased any heater on the market and have had almost all of the brands. The Eheim Thermocontrol have been flawless for me.

Glad you found your issue. You can use a multimeter to check for voltage leakage in the future too.

 

[Naturalreef]

Not sure if you have one, but a titanium grounding probe in your sump is cheap insurance against things like that. I use two of them, one in the return pump, sump area and one in the overflow where the two Eheim Thermocontrol heaters are.

I could have purchased any heater on the market and have had almost all of the brands. The Eheim Thermocontrol have been flawless for me.

Glad you found your issue. You can use a multimeter to check for voltage leakage in the future too.

Thanks hurricane, I did have one. I think the chemical’s leaching is what ultimately killed them. I grabbed two IM ptc titanium heaters, one stored as a backup. I check and clean my equipment often, this one was insidious. Temperature was spot on. The heaters were intact and 3 months old. I just happened to hear the popping and that’s when I found it.

The biggest expense in this hobby for me has been replacing frags from equipment Malfunctioning or failing.

 

[Hurricane Aquatics]

Thanks hurricane, I did have one. I think the chemical’s leaching is what ultimately killed them. I grabbed two IM ptc titanium heaters, one stored as a backup. I check and clean my equipment often, this one was insidious. Temperature was spot on. The heaters were intact and 3 months old. I just happened to hear the popping and that’s when I found it.

The biggest expense in this hobby for me has been replacing frags from equipment Malfunctioning or failing.

Hang in there, you're doing a great job and learning a lot as we all do. If I can ever help, just post or send me a message.