ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...

nornicle

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I switched from 8X80 watt ATI T5 to three Stratons. This is for a 5 foot tank.

The T5 was 400 to 200 PAR top/bottom. I started the Straton's at 325 to roughly 200 peak which was 65%. Over time, I brought them up to 400/220.

My sticks handled it all just fine. I did have to find a little shade for my trachy though.

Sticks going pale makes me double check that I have enough nutrient going through the system. Are you feeding the system the same? Are you removing nutrients the same? Do you have any residual nitrates and phosphates?
What colour setting and intensity do you use to achieve this?
 

nornicle

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Oh haha I think my pat must be high - I run a customised sps (with a bit more of a radium 20k look) at 95% for two hours and ramp down either side to full blues.
I run around 90 minutes of up/down blues (florescent) and then ramp SPS/LPS from 35% to peak 75%.

Peak runs for about 3 hours.
 

periocillin

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You think the uv could be a culprit? It was a new spectrum for the corals for sure, but unclear how powerful.

I had problems with uvs, I lowered them to 30% and the colors are back, now I keep them at 50% and if I raise them they give me problems
 

Hurricane Aquatics

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I advised not turning up your intensity too much because of all the extra UV and other LEDs in the Straton.

Everyone using the Straton should stop trying to customize the schedules and the spectrum and go with one of the presets for at least 6 months. The mixed setting for LPS/SPS is almost perfect. It is set to mimic the ATI T5 bulbs and it does so in spectrum and intensity.

I have my Straton 16 inches from the top of the water and set to 75% intensity. It runs the Mixed mode and every coral/frag I have, has quadrupled in size in the last 3 to 4 months. I have SPS, LPS and a Toadstool or two.

ATI knows better than anyone about the schedules and the ramps of the light. LEDs are much more intense than T5 or MH, it is just a different spectrum delivery. Everyone thinks they have to turn up LEDs to 100% because they have SPS. It's the worst thing you can do. THAT is what is bleaching your corals. It is a large change in what you had previously.

Just take it easy and go slower, nothing you have will suffer and you can always increase intensity as you go and as the corals dictate.
 

ReefCheef

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Any idea what size the Tslots are on the RAL kit? I want to add a piece of aluminum between my two RALs so they stay perfectly level at all times.

Would greatly appreciate if anyone knows!
 

nornicle

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ABDBA7C3-BAF1-4A14-BC07-EA00AEC640EC.jpeg


Hopefully this is useful to someone - I run pretty much the SPS Plakativ setting for 6 hours a day (with a bit less yellow) @ 90%.

I run 3 next to each other over a 60”x30”x24” tank.

You see I’m around 500-600 at the mid level of the tank.

If you see the arrow roughly the mid point (slightly lower) of my tank, it is 560 PAR @ 90% at my Walt Disney (growing quickly) and I ran the different colour settings to see what the difference to PAR would be. This achieved the following:

630 PAR ALL LEDs on
600 PAR SPS Plakativ
470 LPS/SPS
410 LPS
400 Natural
300 Fluorescent

It’s very interesting to see the difference in PAR settings based on the colour settings.

What is embarrassing is I set my under tank XR15 Blue @ 50% for my frag tank, and it barely hit 100 PAR… dead centre, 4” under water…

Measurements taken on an Apogee MQ-510
 

Om84

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Thank you!

how high are your stratons?




ABDBA7C3-BAF1-4A14-BC07-EA00AEC640EC.jpeg


Hopefully this is useful to someone - I run pretty much the SPS Plakativ setting for 6 hours a day (with a bit less yellow) @ 90%.

I run 3 next to each other over a 60”x30”x24” tank.

You see I’m around 500-600 at the mid level of the tank.

If you see the arrow roughly the mid point (slightly lower) of my tank, it is 560 PAR @ 90% at my Walt Disney (growing quickly) and I ran the different colour settings to see what the difference to PAR would be. This achieved the following:

630 PAR ALL LEDs on
600 PAR SPS Plakativ
470 LPS/SPS
410 LPS
400 Natural
300 Fluorescent

It’s very interesting to see the difference in PAR settings based on the colour settings.

What is embarrassing is I set my under tank XR15 Blue @ 50% for my frag tank, and it barely hit 100 PAR… dead centre, 4” under water…

Measurements taken on an Apogee MQ-510
 

Om84

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Would 3 units be enough for 84Lx30Wx24H sps dominated tank? ATI recommended 3 to me so I purchased 3. With your numbers Wondering if par would still be significantly affected in a longer tank specially on the sides.
 

nornicle

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Would 3 units be enough for 84Lx30Wx24H sps dominated tank? ATI recommended 3 to me so I purchased 3. With your numbers Wondering if par would still be significantly affected in a longer tank specially on the sides.

I think three would be perfect over that tank, to be honest 3 side by side over 5’ is overkill, a 6’ or even 6.5’ would be fine.
 

Oldreefer44

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Would 3 units be enough for 84Lx30Wx24H sps dominated tank? ATI recommended 3 to me so I purchased 3. With your numbers Wondering if par would still be significantly affected in a longer tank specially on the sides.
Absolutely. I have 3 over a 72" and is a little overkill so 84" would be just fine.
 

MrSkumfrog

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This is super nice. I'm not too happy about the mounting options (ceiling only) because I'm not sure I can mount it that way (no attic for me, and most like 36" between joist). I wanted to somehow rig these onto back arms instead of using the ceiling mounts, but can't figure out how to do it...especially if there is external overflow in the way of any center light (3 lights like you guys).

Got any photos of your rail? How does it look? How did you mount the light to the rail. I know ATI said we can use the existing wire, but I'm not sure how clean that will look.
Here‘s what I did. I purchased brackets at the Hardware store. The anchors are rated 50lbs each. I purchased aluminum „L“ shaped stock and drilled holes for the hardware and bolted it on to the bracket.
It’s ghetto.

I later took the L-shaped pieces down and purchased a mounting rail. The mounting rail is OK. I found the hardware to be small and it doesn’t Thread deep.
 

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ScottB

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Here‘s what I did. I purchased brackets at the Hardware store. The anchors are rated 50lbs each. I purchased aluminum „L“ shaped stock and drilled holes for the hardware and bolted it on to the bracket.
It’s ghetto.

I later took the L-shaped pieces down and purchased a mounting rail. The mounting rail is OK. I found the hardware to be small and it doesn’t Thread deep.
In your last pic of the grip-lock... I used some slightly larger ones from my old 8X80 ATI sunpower, but still had to replace the set screws with something longer and a little "beefier" to avoid worry.
 

periocillin

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at what height do you hold your stratons from the water, does anyone have them under 4 inches?
 

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