ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...
- Thread starter Reef-Engineer
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Don't have a PAR meter. Not sure what you mean by "directness of light"
Here is what it looks like the rail up (and a counterweight to keep it level.
If anyone has trouble connecting to it in client mode, my rename process wouldn't change the IP address as it is supposed to. I had to find the IP address of the light in my router, then connect to it using that address.
Since then no problems. These are pretty awesome lights. The software lets you fast forward through your light schedule, multiple lights on the same network can be treated as one light group (for settings applications), and its got a lot of control (no thunderstorm/cloud day though).
The best part is there is no glare. My tank is pretty high and I was worried about the lights being above eye level and being irritating. If anyone has used Kessils, they are like the sun. You can't look at them. These are more like...diffuse party lights. Not irritating at all. The variety of LED colors is visible, so it looks like a children's light
If any of this is old hat, I apologize, I am coming from Kessil and never used ATI before.
If anyone has trouble connecting to it in client mode, my rename process wouldn't change the IP address as it is supposed to. I had to find the IP address of the light in my router, then connect to it using that address.
Since then no problems. These are pretty awesome lights. The software lets you fast forward through your light schedule, multiple lights on the same network can be treated as one light group (for settings applications), and its got a lot of control (no thunderstorm/cloud day though).
The best part is there is no glare. My tank is pretty high and I was worried about the lights being above eye level and being irritating. If anyone has used Kessils, they are like the sun. You can't look at them. These are more like...diffuse party lights. Not irritating at all. The variety of LED colors is visible, so it looks like a children's light
If any of this is old hat, I apologize, I am coming from Kessil and never used ATI before.
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Here is what it looks like the rail up (and a counterweight to keep it level.
If anyone has trouble connecting to it in client mode, my rename process wouldn't change the IP address as it is supposed to. I had to find the IP address of the light in my router, then connect to it using that address.
Since then no problems. These are pretty awesome lights. The software lets you fast forward through your light schedule, multiple lights on the same network can be treated as one light group (for settings applications), and its got a lot of control (no thunderstorm/cloud day though).
The best part is there is no glare. My tank is pretty high and I was worried about the lights being above eye level and being irritating. If anyone has used Kessils, they are like the sun. You can't look at them. These are more like...diffuse party lights. Not irritating at all. The variety of LED colors is visible, so it looks like a children's light
If any of this is old hat, I apologize, I am coming from Kessil and never used ATI before.
Ooof that tank is gonna be killer. Looks awesome.
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Gogol_frag
Active Member
Thanks for the MQ-200 suggestion RE, and for the detailed discussion w.r.t. Stratons.
paul01609
Active Member
Thanks for the suggestion on the client side,mine seen to no want to save the settings from my browser to the light in AP mode.Here is what it looks like the rail up (and a counterweight to keep it level.
If anyone has trouble connecting to it in client mode, my rename process wouldn't change the IP address as it is supposed to. I had to find the IP address of the light in my router, then connect to it using that address.
Since then no problems. These are pretty awesome lights. The software lets you fast forward through your light schedule, multiple lights on the same network can be treated as one light group (for settings applications), and its got a lot of control (no thunderstorm/cloud day though).
The best part is there is no glare. My tank is pretty high and I was worried about the lights being above eye level and being irritating. If anyone has used Kessils, they are like the sun. You can't look at them. These are more like...diffuse party lights. Not irritating at all. The variety of LED colors is visible, so it looks like a children's light
If any of this is old hat, I apologize, I am coming from Kessil and never used ATI before.
but I can update and every thing else from my iPad and surface pro
okay @Abhishek I'm testing the PAR now but this will be a very stripped down version until I have more time. It should give you some clarity though.
I turned off my right light and first measured the Drop off in PAR at 11" AWL (SPS PRESET) on my tank. My tank is only about 17" of actual water. Directly below the water surface and center on the fixture I had 500 par. As far down as the Apogee wand would let me go I had 175. So with how shallow my tank Is I concluded that most people should not hang the fixture this high due to the abrupt drop off in par. However for a mixed reef around 20" deep it's pretty good. @Hydrored if your running your lights at 13" I would lower them. A mixed reef will most likely not be running the sps settings so these numbers will be a little lower.
okay so after determining 11" is about as high as I would go for your "wall to wall" sps system I started to measure par spanning away from the fixture. I measured off the right side of my left fixture. I hope this explanation isn't too confusing. (my wording) My reason for doing this is to take my left/front eurobrace out of the equation and also the black overflow. Basically since the fixture is 18.5" cube and diodes are completely symmetrical we can take the numbers I get and apply it to all the surrounds of the fixture. I would assume maybe a slight increase due to light bouncing off both sides of glass (in your tank). The pictures will also probably help if there is any confusion.
Since your tank is 40" wide and the fixture is 18.5 inches I needed to measure par about 10.75" to the right of my fixture to get you par numbers. 10.75" At the surface avg par was about 45 and at the bottom avg was about 55.
They sound like terrible numbers but I forgot to factor in one thing. If your one row of stratons are bumped right up next to eachother the overlap might double these numbers. I need to do more testing when I have the rocks out in the next couple days to do some aquascaping. I will test more heights/presets and try and calculate how much overlap to expect. Regardless I would say 34" would be the absolute maximum these lights would cover. Also I'm assuming your corals don't go glass to glass. would you say all acros are within a 35" span? If so I think you can make it work.
I turned off my right light and first measured the Drop off in PAR at 11" AWL (SPS PRESET) on my tank. My tank is only about 17" of actual water. Directly below the water surface and center on the fixture I had 500 par. As far down as the Apogee wand would let me go I had 175. So with how shallow my tank Is I concluded that most people should not hang the fixture this high due to the abrupt drop off in par. However for a mixed reef around 20" deep it's pretty good. @Hydrored if your running your lights at 13" I would lower them. A mixed reef will most likely not be running the sps settings so these numbers will be a little lower.
okay so after determining 11" is about as high as I would go for your "wall to wall" sps system I started to measure par spanning away from the fixture. I measured off the right side of my left fixture. I hope this explanation isn't too confusing. (my wording) My reason for doing this is to take my left/front eurobrace out of the equation and also the black overflow. Basically since the fixture is 18.5" cube and diodes are completely symmetrical we can take the numbers I get and apply it to all the surrounds of the fixture. I would assume maybe a slight increase due to light bouncing off both sides of glass (in your tank). The pictures will also probably help if there is any confusion.
Since your tank is 40" wide and the fixture is 18.5 inches I needed to measure par about 10.75" to the right of my fixture to get you par numbers. 10.75" At the surface avg par was about 45 and at the bottom avg was about 55.
They sound like terrible numbers but I forgot to factor in one thing. If your one row of stratons are bumped right up next to eachother the overlap might double these numbers. I need to do more testing when I have the rocks out in the next couple days to do some aquascaping. I will test more heights/presets and try and calculate how much overlap to expect. Regardless I would say 34" would be the absolute maximum these lights would cover. Also I'm assuming your corals don't go glass to glass. would you say all acros are within a 35" span? If so I think you can make it work.
Abhishek
2500 Club Member
I appreciate all the work my friend ! I truly do
Sadly that PAR won’t cut it as it’s way over 400 across the board for me front to back
. Those numbers have to go higher to make me ditch my beloved powermodules lol Once supply is up and running , I might go for 4 of them in 2 rows .
No problem like I said I plan on doing more testing but yea 1 row would be a super stretch on your tank. They throw a ton of light off my glass and it doesn't include overlap so those numbers are probably a lot lower than they should be but 2 rows on your tank slightly angled towards the middle would be killer. The slight angle will help with light spill and slightly help with the branches shadowing.I appreciate all the work my friend ! I truly do
Sadly that PAR won’t cut it as it’s way over 400 across the board for me front to back
Once supply is up and running , I might go for 4 of them in 2 rows .
@HolySmoke im at 10.5 currently
I need to do a little more par testing but par falls off pretty quickly. I'd say 8" is about the sweet spot but l dk how deep your tank is and what schedule/intensity you are running. you have Apogee 510/520? It would be good to compare our numbers.
A couple of my acros have exploded in growth and I have had the lights over my tank for 5 days. Included in those 5 days was a tank move which basically halted everything for 2 days. I accidentally broke a tiny tip off my pink caddy and Pinky the bear and in 3 days they not only fully healed but fresh growth tips on both.
I just glued up a bunch of nice collector pieces (cherry bomb, rainbow envy, rmf red matrix,homewrecker)and I will document growth.
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what intensity are you running at?I need to do a little more par testing but par falls off pretty quickly. I'd say 8" is about the sweet spot but l dk how deep your tank is and what schedule/intensity you are running. you have Apogee 510/520? It would be good to compare our numbers.
A couple of my acros have exploded in growth and I have had the lights over my tank for 5 days. Included in those 5 days was a tank move which basically halted everything for 2 days. I accidentally broke a tiny tip off my pink caddy and Pinky the bear and in 3 days they not only fully healed but fresh growth tips on both.
I just glued up a bunch of nice collector pieces (cherry bomb, rainbow envy, rmf red matrix,homewrecker)and I will document growth.
@Reef-Engineer I may have missed it in your posts but I have looked for it multiple times. When you took those par numbers do you know how high the fixture was above the water?
My PAR numbers look significantly lower than yours but I left all flow on when I did the testing.
From the quick par testing I did yesterday it looked like the height off the water didn't matter much in regards to spread but helped penetration slightly. How has the growth been on that monster cherry bomb colony?
Thanks.
My PAR numbers look significantly lower than yours but I left all flow on when I did the testing.
From the quick par testing I did yesterday it looked like the height off the water didn't matter much in regards to spread but helped penetration slightly. How has the growth been on that monster cherry bomb colony?
Thanks.
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96" x 24" x 21" is my tank size and use an Apogee 510, 85% on the middle 2 lights and 50% on 2 end lights. Spectrum is LPS/SPS edited for reds at 40. This puts my PAR at 350 for higher SPS under the middle lights and 250+ on the outer edges of the two middle lights. LPS is under 110-150 PAR under the end lights.
I'm leaving it there for now and see if my octos adapt to it, if not I'm selling them all off and going full SPS. This will pi** my wife off though.
SPS has exploded with growth and great color since switching to stratons along with adding 20ml for additional alk consumption. Some LPS looks amazing and others are just fine. I believe the whiter light is what SPS like and bluer light for LPS, this is based on how I ran my prior radions. Never thought the LPS would be the problem children for me, a funny thing SPS never missed a beat and has been doing better than ever. My tank depth makes it tougher for a mixed reef and lighting
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Ok at 75% I was getting similar par measurements to you around 350-400 8” down, around 150-200 on the floor 24” down. With flow on.
At 100% lps/ sps I was getting 500-600 on the peaks of my rock about 8” down, and 200-300 on the floor 24” dead centre (all three next to each other).
using the 510. I’ll draw a map of my tank when I get a chance with my measurements.
That said I’m only running at 65% max on my left side and 75% max on middle and right side and so far all Sps have maintained colours and lps have not lost colour. I will slowly boost it up but so far so good.
I just asked on the Facebook group but I have a funny feeling the color tab presets that I used to measure par weren't at 100% intensity. It was much easier than messing with my schedule bc it was ramping down for the day. I can easily double check this though.
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