ATI Straton LED Light - Comments, Review, PAR, Coverage, Discuss...
- Thread starter Reef-Engineer
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You can buy it from one of the European retailers that ship overseas, but it’ll be around $800-1000 for shipment only. I tried buying from a French website, but backed down since it cost too much.
@ATI North America Scratch that request for hardware I was able to make it work. I stepped down to 1/8" toggle bolts and the washers I found are almost a perfect match. Still have to fine tune the height but I'm about to mess them up now anyway.
Par Test incoming! @Abhishek
It won't be as fancy as Reef enginner but I will be testing the light at a lot of different heights and different presets at 100%.
Par Test incoming! @Abhishek
It won't be as fancy as Reef enginner but I will be testing the light at a lot of different heights and different presets at 100%.
@ReefCheef I was on an official ATI page and it said shipping in 1-3 days to Europe. I can't seem to find that page now but here is another website if you want to see what it looks like.
You need the rail
2 end caps
pair of brackets per light
and the two or more hanging wires depending how many lights you have.
You need the rail
2 end caps
pair of brackets per light
and the two or more hanging wires depending how many lights you have.
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ReefCheef
Active Member
Awesome man, thank you!!
ReefCheef
Active Member
Do you know how many lights can fit on one rail? The pictures on that French website do not make it immediately clear to me.
I finally got them up! I am going to try and get them powered up this week, programmed and water next week, then probably rock in a month. I'll post one once I get the cover off the tank, but here is a teaser shot
Someone was asking about ordering/how to get the rail. It's not easy, but it is doable.
You can order it here. You need the rail (cut to size), hanging kit, brackets and end caps. Google translate works on the site. ATI Germany would not ship to the US, but they are helpful with sizing. I was recommended 63" for a 60" tank and I have about 3" extra rail. If anyone knows German reefers, they may help you. I considered having something custom built, but even the brackets are hard to find in the US, and by the time you get custom rail and brackets built (that may not be correct)...well, I figured it was easier to ship from Europe.
I had the whole kit shipped to someone in Germany, then shipped to the US. Shipping was about 150 euros.
The rail is white, like the lights, with channels for the hanging kit above. The lights have a wire hanging kit included; you remove it, then screw in the brackets on the sides with included longer screws. The brackets then attach to the rail using nuts in the slots.
The slots are cut PRECISELY. The nuts fit only at their narrowest width. I found the easiest way to mount was to slid the nut in, then line up the light with the nut and tighten it. A 1/4 turn loosening allows you to slide the light around. Loosen it too much and you lose the nut/screw alignment in the channel and its a PITA to find it, requiring the lights to be unmounted.
Tips: There are "one way" cable grippers for the steel cable on the light (for the included kit) and on the hanging kit. If you push the cable in, it doesnt came back out. If you depress the little nozzle where the wire goes in, you can pull the wire out. Most people with nice fixtures prob know this, but we didnt, and it took some time to figure it out (its one line in the instructions we missed). Another tip is the lights themselves can be detached from the wifi units and ballast (described in instructions)
The overhang is a little annoying but I'd rather have a little extra rail then too short. Given that people have been frustrated with the included hanging solution, I think this works very well and was worth it to set up...now the lights are one unit instead of 3, and there is less hanging/alignment to do. It does take away from the sleekness of the flat panel light and I wish I didn't have overhang..but you can't have it all. Maybe I'll get a new rail once its available in the US.
The lights do tilt a little due to the weight of the power cable. This is pretty easy to fix; you can attach the cable to the wall, alleviating the weight. Or, you could get little weights to put on the front of lights.
If there was a way to run the cable inside the light channel, that would be awesome. If ATI is ever doing a redesign, you could have the power cable come out of the top of the unit...it'd be easier to run it to the ceiling, along a rail, hanging arm, etc. But I am sure some people prefer it the way it is. Also, if the rail was a flat bar instead of curved, you could retain the sleekness of the light...most of the rail is wasted space and the channels aren't very deep.
Someone was asking about ordering/how to get the rail. It's not easy, but it is doable.
You can order it here. You need the rail (cut to size), hanging kit, brackets and end caps. Google translate works on the site. ATI Germany would not ship to the US, but they are helpful with sizing. I was recommended 63" for a 60" tank and I have about 3" extra rail. If anyone knows German reefers, they may help you. I considered having something custom built, but even the brackets are hard to find in the US, and by the time you get custom rail and brackets built (that may not be correct)...well, I figured it was easier to ship from Europe.
I had the whole kit shipped to someone in Germany, then shipped to the US. Shipping was about 150 euros.
The rail is white, like the lights, with channels for the hanging kit above. The lights have a wire hanging kit included; you remove it, then screw in the brackets on the sides with included longer screws. The brackets then attach to the rail using nuts in the slots.
The slots are cut PRECISELY. The nuts fit only at their narrowest width. I found the easiest way to mount was to slid the nut in, then line up the light with the nut and tighten it. A 1/4 turn loosening allows you to slide the light around. Loosen it too much and you lose the nut/screw alignment in the channel and its a PITA to find it, requiring the lights to be unmounted.
Tips: There are "one way" cable grippers for the steel cable on the light (for the included kit) and on the hanging kit. If you push the cable in, it doesnt came back out. If you depress the little nozzle where the wire goes in, you can pull the wire out. Most people with nice fixtures prob know this, but we didnt, and it took some time to figure it out (its one line in the instructions we missed). Another tip is the lights themselves can be detached from the wifi units and ballast (described in instructions)
The overhang is a little annoying but I'd rather have a little extra rail then too short. Given that people have been frustrated with the included hanging solution, I think this works very well and was worth it to set up...now the lights are one unit instead of 3, and there is less hanging/alignment to do. It does take away from the sleekness of the flat panel light and I wish I didn't have overhang..but you can't have it all. Maybe I'll get a new rail once its available in the US.
The lights do tilt a little due to the weight of the power cable. This is pretty easy to fix; you can attach the cable to the wall, alleviating the weight. Or, you could get little weights to put on the front of lights.
If there was a way to run the cable inside the light channel, that would be awesome. If ATI is ever doing a redesign, you could have the power cable come out of the top of the unit...it'd be easier to run it to the ceiling, along a rail, hanging arm, etc. But I am sure some people prefer it the way it is. Also, if the rail was a flat bar instead of curved, you could retain the sleekness of the light...most of the rail is wasted space and the channels aren't very deep.
Can somebody help me out and let me know what PAR you are keeping hammers and frogspawn at? I have still been slowly ramping the percentage over my 2 end lights by 1% a week to get the LPS back to the PAR they were at (150) I am running a whiter spectrum than I use to with the XR30 blues.
I have half of the LPS that is happy and looking awesome, any time I ramp over 130 PAR my octospawns get ticked. Colors look great, no tissue recession, they just don't expand in full. I would like to get them to 150-180 with the 4 lights spread it gives me some PAR coverage for more SPS in the middle.
I'm truly starting to wonder if my 510 is off. I haven't changed anything with SPS and they're doing great. I'm about to just sell all LPS but my torch and goni's and call it a day with an SPS dominated tank.
I have half of the LPS that is happy and looking awesome, any time I ramp over 130 PAR my octospawns get ticked. Colors look great, no tissue recession, they just don't expand in full. I would like to get them to 150-180 with the 4 lights spread it gives me some PAR coverage for more SPS in the middle.
I'm truly starting to wonder if my 510 is off. I haven't changed anything with SPS and they're doing great. I'm about to just sell all LPS but my torch and goni's and call it a day with an SPS dominated tank.
Looks awesome. Post a pick with the towels removed.I finally got them up! I am going to try and get them powered up this week, programmed and water next week, then probably rock in a month. I'll post one once I get the cover off the tank, but here is a teaser shot
Someone was asking about ordering/how to get the rail. It's not easy, but it is doable.
You can order it here. You need the rail (cut to size), hanging kit, brackets and end caps. Google translate works on the site. ATI Germany would not ship to the US, but they are helpful with sizing. I was recommended 63" for a 60" tank and I have about 3" extra rail. If anyone knows German reefers, they may help you. I considered having something custom built, but even the brackets are hard to find in the US, and by the time you get custom rail and brackets built (that may not be correct)...well, I figured it was easier to ship from Europe.
I had the whole kit shipped to someone in Germany, then shipped to the US. Shipping was about 150 euros.
The rail is white, like the lights, with channels for the hanging kit above. The lights have a wire hanging kit included; you remove it, then screw in the brackets on the sides with included longer screws. The brackets then attach to the rail using nuts in the slots.
The slots are cut PRECISELY. The nuts fit only at their narrowest width. I found the easiest way to mount was to slid the nut in, then line up the light with the nut and tighten it. A 1/4 turn loosening allows you to slide the light around. Loosen it too much and you lose the nut/screw alignment in the channel and its a PITA to find it, requiring the lights to be unmounted.
Tips: There are "one way" cable grippers for the steel cable on the light (for the included kit) and on the hanging kit. If you push the cable in, it doesnt came back out. If you depress the little nozzle where the wire goes in, you can pull the wire out. Most people with nice fixtures prob know this, but we didnt, and it took some time to figure it out (its one line in the instructions we missed). Another tip is the lights themselves can be detached from the wifi units and ballast (described in instructions)
The overhang is a little annoying but I'd rather have a little extra rail then too short. Given that people have been frustrated with the included hanging solution, I think this works very well and was worth it to set up...now the lights are one unit instead of 3, and there is less hanging/alignment to do. It does take away from the sleekness of the flat panel light and I wish I didn't have overhang..but you can't have it all. Maybe I'll get a new rail once its available in the US.
The lights do tilt a little due to the weight of the power cable. This is pretty easy to fix; you can attach the cable to the wall, alleviating the weight. Or, you could get little weights to put on the front of lights.
If there was a way to run the cable inside the light channel, that would be awesome. If ATI is ever doing a redesign, you could have the power cable come out of the top of the unit...it'd be easier to run it to the ceiling, along a rail, hanging arm, etc. But I am sure some people prefer it the way it is. Also, if the rail was a flat bar instead of curved, you could retain the sleekness of the light...most of the rail is wasted space and the channels aren't very deep.
Probably ticked due to the change in spectrum. My recommendation if it looks really pissdd would be to find a spot partially shaded by rock and see how it reacts. If no change look at flow assuming water is in check. I also plan on removing all non Sps to a seperate system too. It is just so much easier and it makes me feel better that I'm providing the corals with optimal conditions as opposed to adequate.
Yeah, honestly it’s only my 2 octospawns. They are the divas of my tank and are slow growers, always have been. Regular hammers and torches grow 5 heads in the time it takes them to grow one.
What I can’t figure out is its like a light switch, as if they know that 1% is what puts them over the edge.
SPS have acclimated fine to the higher PAR and whiter spectrum, couple photos from tonight-
I am using the SPS setting on mine and all three hammers are thriving. All are roughly 28 inches below lights.
Thanks, hammers and frammers are great. Just the octos are ticked, I will more than likely just sell them
Not changing my schedule but out of curiosity how many hours and percentage of the sps setting are you running? Do you mind posting a picture of your graph? I think it will be a good resource in the ATI thread for future Straton owners.
Its the SPS preset. Normally would mess around with it a little but everything has done so well that I have been able to resist. So far.
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