Asking for help because I am at a complete loss

[MichaelReefer]

I would suggest to maybe run carbon in a Reactor 24/7 to see if it can pull out any unwanted chemicals. Wait a couple of weeks and see if you can add corals in without it melting away

I agree. I would run some carbon 24/7. Maybe something is leeching into the tank? Some kind of rust or metal? Have you checked all your magnets? Seems like you have basically everything covered so it's kinda weird you're having this problem. I wish I had a tank like that :O

Maybe we should get "El Jefe" involved? @Paul B

 

[inletfish]

Beautiful tank. I hope you work it out

 

[DarthSimon]

So those are all XR30's?

 

[Thales]

I would check the salinity with something other than the hanna.

 

[DarthSimon]

Also Cyphastrea, Chalice, Lepto are lower light and lower flow corals. Are they getting blasted with light and flow?

 

[Cell]

Are your tanks at home and the office supplied with the same water?

 

[Clownfish2]

Did you buy the tank used? If yes, could medications copper have been used?

Any chance NON aquarium safe silicone sealant used?

 

[YankeeTankee]

Cleaning, cooking, building, kids blowing bubbles, any of this going on nearby?

 

[HWDylan]

Did you stick the bottom down with anything, or is there some stagnant water trapped under and being released into the system?
Any air fresheners running or sprayed near by?
Has any copper got into the system from your quarantine? If you used copper treatment that is. Could it be a bad batch of salt?
Could you just leave the tank to run without sticking hands in and doing maintenance on it for a while? As in not do a water change I know 6 gallon a day on that size system isn't alot but for what reason does it need a water change every day? for that amount wouldn't adjust anything.
I'm just clutching at straws, I understand that its frustrating.

You do have alot of light on that tank and the corals you listed are low light corals so could it just be too much light?

Also you mention you have a reactor with carbon in it, do you leave that full of water the just open a valve when you want to use it? If so the water in the reactor could be going bad.

Bottom was installed by Reef Savvy. They actually laminate the bottom of the tanks in a proprietary way using PVC, Glass, and ABS plastic. Bottom of this tank is nearly 2in thick. Its a monster.

I generally do not put my hands in very often as is. I do 6gal a day water changes because that amounts to about 10% total water volume a week. A standard water change schedule. I like the auto water changes doing small amounts because it acts like a big stabilizer for the tank. new in old out all the time.

It is a lot of light. The lights are about 16in up and the diffusers cut a ton of light out though. The area I had the chalice measured around 171 PAR which should be well within the range that chalices like.

I keep no carbon in the reactor when it is not in use and I let the water continually flow through it so it doesn't get all nasty and smelly in the reactor.

I would suggest to maybe run carbon in a Reactor 24/7 to see if it can pull out any unwanted chemicals. Wait a couple of weeks and see if you can add corals in without it melting away

I will do exactly this and we will see where it goes. I have run carbon off and on and it doesnt seem to make a difference with the coral mortality but I will still try again just in case.

Just throwing out ideas...are you sure your Hanna salinity meter is accurate?

I calibrate it often and the double check with a Digital Refractometer semi regularly.

Did you buy the tank used? If yes, could medications copper have been used?

Any chance NON aquarium safe silicone sealant used?

Tank is brand new.

I would say no. This was a tank built by a very reputable tank builder specifically for a reef.

Cleaning, cooking, building, kids blowing bubbles, any of this going on nearby?

Some mild dry wall work around the corner in the house but nothing crazy. No kids, kitchen is upstairs, and I only use vinegar and citric acid around the tank for cleaning. I even removed all the glade plugin type things from the basement.

 

[HWDylan]

So those are all XR30's?

Yes

Are your tanks at home and the office supplied with the same water?

No. Completely different city even.

Both are using 0TDS RO/DI water though. I am pretty strict about my water filtration since I am on well water here.

Also Cyphastrea, Chalice, Lepto are lower light and lower flow corals. Are they getting blasted with light and flow?

I tried to place them in a variety of places to cover my bases. The location the chalice was in was lower light and lower flow for sure. The Stylo should have been fine either way. Those guys love to get blasted in my experience.

 

[HWDylan]

This issue is specifically frustrating when I KNOW I can be successful at this given my past tanks and to be running into this mysterious problem that I can't solve. I went through great lengths to try and take all the knowledge I have gained in the last 15 years of this hobby and put it all together into this dream tank hahah.

I guess this hobby wouldn't be the same without these oddball challenges. This one is driving me nuts though.

 

[BeMoto]

Maybe low oxygen level? Not sure if that effects corals much. But you said basement and that's the first thing I thought of after reading all the post above.

 

[HWDylan]

Maybe low oxygen level? Not sure if that effects corals much. But you said basement and that's the first thing I thought of after reading all the post above.

Is there a reasonable way to test this? I figured with all the power heads and that massive skimmer oxygen would be the least of my worries.

Would not the fish be struggling as well too though? I have not had a single fish death in the display.

 

[BeMoto]

I'm was wondering the same thing about the fish. But my thinking was the fish are mobile and coral are not. I have nothing the base this off of.....

I also not sure how to test this.

I just know that basements can be a proplem for some in winter time not getting fresh air. Your furnace can suck up some of the oxygen if there not fresh air coming in insufficiently. Basement can be stagnant in general. I live in Michigan, not sure if any of this is a factor for you.

 

[Cell]

If the tank wasn't so large I'd try swapping out the home well water with water from the office. But 300 gallons would be a pita.

 

[HWDylan]

If the tank wasn't so large I'd try swapping out the home well water with water from the office. But 300 gallons would be a pita.

This exact thing has crossed my mind a few times. No idea how to even try that though.

I would love to eliminate variables.

I'm was wondering the same thing about the fish. But my thinking was the fish are mobile and coral are not. I have nothing the base this off of.....

I also not sure how to test this.

I just know that basements can be a proplem for some in winter time not getting fresh air. Your furnace can suck up some of the oxygen if there not fresh air coming in insufficiently. Basement can be stagnant in general. I live in Michigan, not sure if any of this is a factor for you.

I do have a dedicated air exchanger in the fish room that pumps stagnant air out and fresh air from outside in.

 

[Nicholas Dushynsky]

Why do you need to do a 10% water change a week? Just because? You're having to dose alot of soda ash and calcium? With no corals and only coraline algae, your rocks must be very pink and also the rear glass would be covered,unless scraping every day. Is it actually using that much or is it precipitating out? To try not doing any water changes for a week or 2 and see what actually changes. The fish will be fine, I'm sure they say large tanks are more stable. I have only had nano tanks currently 3. None have skimmers or sumps I dont do water changes that often and my sons 7 gallon, I haven't done a water change on for 2-3 months now I think. A tank that size should be able to sustain a balance. With only a little dosing to bring levels up when you have live stock that consumes it.

 

[Hydrored]

Tropic Marin reef pro test 7.5 DKH, I have a similar setup running automatic water changes with the same salt. You are constantly lowering DKH with the auto water changes- my trident confirms this. I have a 120 and 4 XR15 pros with diffusers and can’t keep torches or sps alive. I’m running my lights at 50%, I have a apogee 510 and even though I though PAR was perfect it was still melting coral so I lowered them there and acan’s and zoanthids started taking off. Following this one as it’s oddly similar to my setup including the bits of GHA

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Well @HWDylan, I can see why you are at a loss. Everything looks good in your tank parameter wise. Lighting and flow don't seem to be an issue.

I would suggest taking a look at this thread. Since your tank is pretty new, it could be a case of lack of biodiversity. Here is the thread, Why can't u keep SPS.

If you haven't already, consider adding Pods and dosing live Phyto for a while along with the suggestions in the above thread.

 

[Dilan Patel]

Why do you need to do a 10% water change a week? Just because? You're having to dose alot of soda ash and calcium? With no corals and only coraline algae, your rocks must be very pink and also the rear glass would be covered,unless scraping every day. Is it actually using that much or is it precipitating out? To try not doing any water changes for a week or 2 and see what actually changes. The fish will be fine, I'm sure they say large tanks are more stable. I have only had nano tanks currently 3. None have skimmers or sumps I dont do water changes that often and my sons 7 gallon, I haven't done a water change on for 2-3 months now I think. A tank that size should be able to sustain a balance. With only a little dosing to bring levels up when you have live stock that consumes it.

I agree that he should stop doing water changes if he is doing it for no reason. I havent done water changes for years...yes I do run into an occasional problem just like everybody else. But I personally find that I am able to keep my reef more stable without waterchanges.